Evening Star Newspaper, January 12, 1930, Page 51

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, JANUARY 12, 1930—PART THREE. Clothes for Southern Resorts Give Valu- able Indication of Trend in Spring Styles — Stay - at - Home People Have More Than Passing Interest in Things Worn by Limited Number Making Late Winter Trips— New Light Garments May be Used Under Winter Coats. May Solve Many Dress Problems for Those Who Are to Make Trips—Tweeds Are Still Supreme but There Are Straws Veering Toward Co- vert and Mannish Suitings—New Waistline Definitely Indicated on Suit Jackets — Simple Notched Collars. BY HELEN DRYDEN. 7 . HEN we are traveling we are what our clothes make us. We should not only select correct fabrics made in the new styles and in harmoniz- ing color combinations, but we should wear them at the right time, and with the right accessories. We must remem- ber that the well dressed woman is not the one who stands out because of her clothes, but the woman whose clothes are 50 much a part of her that she fits pleasingly into the picture. Since fashion has returned the trim tallor-made suit to favor many women will make it the basis of their traveling ‘wardrobes. For this suit there are cer- tain worsteds and woolens that proved serviceable when suits were formerly the regulation street uniform—twills, serges and tricotines. As yet they have not threatened the supremacy of the tweeds, but the favor already shown covert and mannish suitings in tiny herringbone patterns shows that the fashion straws are veering toward them. ‘These closely woven fabrics, which take and hold the crisp, definite tailored Ilines, are appropriate for the two-piece suit with blouse, whereas tweeds are more often used for the ensembles of dress and coat. The heavier, nubbed Wweeds will be used for two-thirds, three-quarter and full-length coats, and the lighter, lacey tweeds, giving a nar- Tow stripe effect, for the dress. Very often the tweed of the coat or cape is & monotane repeating the dominant color note of the lacey tweed. Black tweeds are accepted in sports circles as well as for town, and are an excellent choice ‘with the black and white dresses; brown blends with the numerous brown and mustard and brown and blue combina- tions, and green with the green and beige and gray and green mixtures, * % % % ECTIONAL effects produced by the ingenious treatment of gores, seam- ings and bandings, are distinctively new. In fact, a plain surface today has the look of last year. In the skirts Hiisd ‘Hipe "and spreadisg hemives ps an g es. ‘This scheme is repeated on coats and on the new capes. On the blouse and often on the hips the gores are hori- zontal, breaking the figure X and this treatment is used - ming on the jackets. In place of gores there are pleats, usually in clusters and kept well toward the bottom of the skirt, and a wrap- around arrangement. with the godets to give the flare. Many of these skirts have yokes or strappings and bandings to simulate yokes, Hemlines are even, extending. from four'to six inches be~ low the knee. . ‘While three-quarter coats are found in the tailored suits, shorter jackets are more popular. With the longer skirt they are generally more becom- ing, giving the longer line, and they are certainly more jaunty and youthful in appearance. Some are very short, little more than glorified boleros; oth- ers extend slightly below the waistline, ‘while the majority hug the hips tight- ly. A few of the newer shaped and flar: | roats show double-breasted treatment. The windbreaker type of acket is usually found in jerseys and itted tweeds. On all suit jackets, long or short, the new waistline is definitely indicated. Bometimes this is accomplished by belt or a belt in the back disappearing through side cuts and buckling under the released fronts. Again diverse lines in_seaming, vertical tucking, diagonal arangements and fabric incrustations give this fitted waistline, On the soft- er suits, those in wool or silk, peplums flaring below definite nipped-in waistline accent its position. ‘The result is a fitted, flaring, tailored garment. * k% % TH’! more strictly tallored suits show simple, notched collars. three- button, cardigan type of ensemble often displays & tuxedo collar which may be carried out in one of the flat furs. One of the newest collars is a cape collar on the order of a fichu, which may even be of fur, tying in front. Many shoulder capes are also shown in galyak and other flat furs processed to look like galyak. Just as black gal- yak is preferred with black—when white ermine or one of its substitutes 1s not used—so natural lynx and dyed squirrel are chosen with beige; bleached Russian kit fox and brown caracul with covert and the:blue fox when a dressy fur is desired. On jackets with no col- lars the blouse collar is sometimes de- signed to serve for both, and happily when it is on the scarf order knotted at the front. Among hallmarks of the coming sea- #on are the capes which swing so non- chalantly across the shoudlers of many topcoats. There is the greatest di- versity in shape, ranging from capes which fall at the back only, and even there may be divided, and the capelets which fall only over the tops of the shoulder or in front to the tiers which extend almost to the hipline. As rivals to thzs: p:'ldpe-rg-u"tgeg are regular , shaped and go ve smooth-fitting shoulders. The onger ones have slits for the arm so that they may be worn as comfortably as a coat, and on the steamer have a distinct advantage, both for tramping e deck and for the steamer chairs. On suits of the lighter fabrics—wool crepes, failles, flat crepes and printed silks—the cape may be an integral part of the ensemble, even buttoning to it. In the same way it plays an important role on tailor-type dresses of wool and silk. * ok ok X [HE suit solves many dress prob- lems for the traveler, for with sev- eral blouses it may be made to serve for « all but formal occasions. On shipboard where comfort is most desired there wre blouses of bedford cord jersey, sometimes embroidered, of various knitted novelty jerseys, or pique, all correct for wear with jersey or tweed suits. Pique blouses are the newest types for the more tailored worsted and tweed suits. They may be selected in the pastel tones as well as in white and are tallored with all the precision of a man’s shirt. For more formal wear there are silk erepe, crepe satin and silk tricot louses, both the tuck-in and the over- louse, belted or bloused by banding at the bottom. There are also more fem- e embroidered batiste and sheer n blouses. For these pastels, such a3 ciel blue, Vionnet pink, water green and maize are a little newer than egg- ghell, although white, to give the mag- ', ple effect, is preferred with black. ‘" various devices are introduced to make these blouses delightfully soft and feminine — fagotting, pin-tucking, tiers of ruffles, pleated collars, bows, tabs and all manner of delicate handwork. gmetlmeu the skirt yoke is extended p in & point on the blouse or the 7 1. i \ . . . AR // = . 1 I 1 | \ i ,‘\ HWI | | ill l | ifllfi;fi i | ,, 7 _ 70202, 7§57 74 774 7%, 72 7 7777 2 7////////////, _ 22 \ 77 7 2 7, 7 ) . 7 ?/};/ W . N\ 7 7, 7 7 7 ./;/////// Z 7 TOP, LEFT: BLACK AND MUSTARD TRAVEL COAT HAS CAPE ATTACHED TO THE SLEEVES FALLING IN BACK BELOW THE WAISTLINE, BOTTOM, LEFT: THREE-PIECE ENSEMBLE OF VERY LIGHT WEIGHT TWEED IN A FINE DARK GREEN AND WHITE CHECK. THE GRAY FLAT CREPE BLOUSE HAS S PLACED LOW ON THE OUT-AWAY COAT. CENTER: BLACK AND WHITE TWEED SUIT WITH A TURQUOIS CARF COLLAR, WHICH SERVES ALSO FOR THE COAT. 5 BLUE FLAT CREPE BLOUSE. TOP, RIGHT: BEIGE JERSEY SUIT WITH ENCRUSTA- REVERS OF THE SCARF DESIGN ARE TIONS OF CHARTREUSE FLAT CREPE, FOR WEAR UNDER TOPCOAT FOR TRAVEL. BOTTOM, RIGHT: DAHLIA TWEED COAT WITH CARACUL COLLAR AND HIGH WAISTLINE INDICATED BY BUCKLED BELT. Rugs for the Living Room Color Must Be Right and Fabric Must Be Made Free From Curl- ing — Should Not Be Fastened. BY BETSY CALLISTER. THI fireplace is the center of the living room. Of course, there are living rooms with beautiful fireplaces that never, from one in a deep V on the skirt. This breaks the effect of a high waistlin-~ ‘With different blouses one can devise many unusual color combinations. A blouse of Spring green crepe, for ex- ample, was worn by a Paris visitor with & marocain suit of royal blue, heralding & new color combination for Spring All of the blues are high in fashion’s favor and P: has already turned to navy blue as a rival of black. This is combined with gray fur and lighter blue blouses, slate blue or linen blue. A tuck-in blouse of henna red shan- tung, which Schiaparelll features with 8 gray ribbed jersey skirt and jacket, would make & smart steamer costume. Sweaters are also correct on shipboard. One in pomegranate red may be worn with a tweed jacket suit., The soft yellow blouses are selected for the Jower edge of the blouse is continued brown or black traveling suifs, year's end to the other, boast a fire. So adequate is the furnace heat that there is no opportunity for a fire on the hearth. But the clever woman manages to keep the furnace heat down so that'a & fire on the hearth can be occasion- ally lighted, even in Winter, But not only the fireplace—all the furniture, all the furnishings of the house become attractive. Just because we are shut in with them we grow to appreciate them again. In the Summer, when we are out- doors as much of the time as we can possibly afford to be out, we forget or ignore our houses. The porches and windows and baths are the only inter- esting features of them in hot weather. But now it's different. We spend time, and, therefore, lavish attention on our household interiors. Rugs are important as a foundation for the furnishing of the living room. ‘The color must be right, and the rug itself must lie flat and secure on the floor. Some rugs curl at the corners and some don’t, and seemingly you can- not tell when you buy the rug whether it is going to be one that does or one that doesn‘t. There are several ways of preventing this, but about the sim- plest way—and one that has proved most_suc ful—is to make some thin starch and rub it into the part of the rug that rolls up. If the rug is thin and steamers. be taken to select practical things. 1s'nothing else so smart. or on an ocean trip. are going it may be pressed dry, or if too heavy for this, then place the rug in an airy place to let the starch dry quickly. r device to keep rugs from curling consists of a plece of heavy paper or thin cardboard sewed on the back of the rug at the place where it is most inclined to curl. It is a mistake to fasten rugs to the floor in any way. If possible have your rugs turned about from time to time, so that the southeast corner will lie where the northwest corner had been and the side of the rug that had lain toward the south side of the room will lie along the north side. 1In this way the wear on the rug is shifted. It s an excellent plan to give your rugs a vacation sometimes, If you have Look Your Best En Route ONE should make a special effort to look well while en route. A vast amount has been written, pictured and spoken about travel clothes, yet, despite all this, we see many dowdy-looking women on trains True, traveling is hard on clothes and for that reason care should Neutral colors, brown, of mixed material, are good. Tweed, of course, is the leader. There such as tan, gray or A suit or wool dress over which is worn a serviceable cloth coat or a fur coat of the sports type is correct. Naturally the weight of materials and the amount of fur depend upon whether one is going North, South, Accessories should be of the simplest—plain leather pumps with bag to match, felt hat which may match either the coat or the dress. on & steamer, do give attention to shoes and stockings. Remember that there are few places where one is as conspicuous as on a deck. While one is walking there are rows of people sitting who to watch and criticize their fellow passengers rather than wal horizon; therefore shoes that are not correct, stockings that are not the right shade or show darns, or a sagging hemline of a skirt all come under more careful scrutiny than they would almost any otll;etr LE‘P:“' If you refer the DRYDEN. had them cleaned, try going without them a week longer and letting them remain rolled up or folded. This changes the position of the fibers and helps prolong the life of the rug. ‘When vacuum cleaners were & nov- elty some authorities on domestic science protested that they would be injurious to fine rugs. Enough suction, they said, to remove dust and dirt would in time wear out the rug. As a matter of fact, the broom that would have to be used if the vacuum cleaner were not would wear the rug out faster than the cleaner, and the very presence of grime and dust in a rug wears it out far more quickly than repeated clean- ings from the vagium cleaner, (Copyright, 1929.) Scientific Aides in Cooking Schools for Training Should Be Potent Forces in Direction of Good Food Prac- tices—Efficient Housewife Must Ask Many Questions. People who sell stoves have cooking schools to show how to run them. People who sell flour and baking pow- der and heaven knows what else—in fact, everybody has cooking schools these days. And the schools are very well at- tended. Women of all ages go. You will see brides and their mothers there side by side. You will see women who have run boarding houses for years and women who cook for themselves alone. You will see every type of woman who knows how to operate a cook stove. ‘They will all listen more or less at- tentively and they will all carry home the rec) and they will look much alike while they are doing it. But there the similarity ends. Some of the women will go home and say, “I never heard of such a thing! Mixing Jjelly with egg white for the It's ridiculous.” And their way topping of a pie. then they il go about ""'mof same old dinner s the same old that they have got it ever since they weée'.h married. " er women will home and say, “That omelet may h-lfi ‘worked for heyr but it won't for me. I won't waste my eggs. T'll scramble them.” Others, I never heard of a cake that wouldn't fall if you opened the oven door.” Now what earthly good did it do women like that to take the day off and go to cooking school? Every single thing that was different from what they expected they turned up their noses at and refused to try. And if they were going just to be told things al- ready knew, they might as well have stayed at home. The women who listened to every word with a willingness to try it even if it did sound contrary to everything they had ever done, the women who carried home the recipes determined to try every one of them—they were sm‘” who did well to go to cooking Science has made great strides in the last 25 years. So has cooking. Thlnas we do now our would never have thought of doing. Combinations we have made up into dinner plates now were ul of years ago. But that doesn’t mean they aren’t worth trying. And what is a cooking school for if not to unearth new ideas and pass them on? In many cases the new ideas taught in a school of this kind are the result of l(\;\eg nndmp:(é}e‘nt r:ulreh. You may be sure that the recipes suggested, however startling they may B“:und at first, have all been thorohghly tested and found good. BY MARY MARSHAML. HE future tense always occuples g:lm as important a place in e scheme of fashions as the present tense, and somtimes “we shall” appeals to us far more than “we are.” Seasonal changes of weather have a stimulating effect on fashions, and it is hard to imagine Paris as a source of fashion inspiration if Paris enjoyed as equable a climate as that of S8an Francisco, Los Angeles, Nice or Monte Carlo. ‘With the coming of each new sea- son, the need for new clothes presents itself whether or not the clothes on hand show signs of wear, and with the new things the dressmakers and designers introduce more or less subtle changes of cut and color that before another six months have rolled around will make last season’s things seem out of date. Warmish, sunshiny days in late Winter set one's thoughts turning toward the on of new clothes, just as the first cool days of last Sum- mer offer a tremendous stimulation to the business of selling new clothes for Autiimn, * ok ¥ % 'HE modern nomad who anticipates Spring by going South and hastens the coming of Autumn by going to the mountains in August has an even stronger excuse for buying new clothes —and with many women more than haif the pleasure of going South or North, East or West lies in the op- portunity it provides for changing the ‘wardrobe. After all, the number of women who can afford to pass their days at a resort in late Winter is comparatively small. Why, then, all this fine talk about clothes for Palm Beach, for the Riviera, for Southern California, the Antibes and North Africa? Who is in- terested in what a not very significant minority of women choose to wear at play while the rest of us are too con- sclentious to leave our children and our husbands. too puhlil:-agmud to leave clubs and home-town philanthropy and either too ambitious or to poor to leave business er profession? ‘The answer is rather simple. In the first place women are no longer in- terested in their Winter clothes—unless they still harbor an idea of getting & Winter coat or ensemble at a great bar- gain now that will somehow do for next Winter. But women—even those who stay at home—are interested in clothes of the more Spring-like sort. In the late Winter a woman’s fancy—idly or quite seriously—turns to thoughts of Spring clothes. On a dull; dark day in Winter flowered silks and soft pastels appeal to us.more than somber woolens. So to the stay-at<home the displays of new things designed for visitors to Beach or the Riviera serve as in- spiration and encouragement. * ok kK S'z'n.!. more important, the new light clothes are really suitable even for the stay-at-home. e new silk dresses are as appropriate to wear under a Winter coat now as they will be later with a light wrap or no coat at all. ‘There are light-toned sports costumes that are quite appropriate to wear for an informal luncheon or afternoon I:rrid?i And when you realize that there ‘will be no radical lerence in the styles of these resort clothes from those of- ered for the Spring everywhere and that many of them are not at all high bly want to make of hats, wraps, suits and dresses of the Winter resort sort, even though you have no intention of going (Copyright, 1930 Brimmed Hats Popular for 1930 So difficult to wear are many of the off-the-face hats that it is a joy to find brims again in favor, even though the 1930 edition of the brimmed hat reveals the forehead. They differ, how- ever, from these we are wearing by their short backs. All of them have sweep- ing side lines and all of them are dis- tinguished by the great amount of hand work, Tucks, pleats, shirrings and other ingenious manipulations of the material, be it felt, straw or fabric, supply the trimming, For an intermediate hat—one which will look appropriate in the snow-cov- ered North and equally well when you arrive in the South—fabric is & happy solution. You may choose from the wool and silk tricots, faille satin and grosgrain ribbon. These you can com- bine with felt in short brims or they are made in sectional pieces to fit the head like a bonnet or beret. The first of the novelties to arrive, the bakou hat with silk crepe scarf at the back, has already been adapted for the traveler. Your hat should link definitely into the ensemble. The idea of matching the fur is a good one to follow when fur is in evidence. In its absence you may match it to the dominant note of dress or blouse. Very often it- matches in color the shoes. Short Capes, Short Sleeves in Vogue ‘There are two new fashions—or ratn- er revived fashions—to be found in i clothes for Sputhern resort wear that will surely be met with a warm welcome and that will be important in Spring and Summer fashions in all sections. One is the short sleeve and the other is the short cape. There are cap sleeves that extend only part way down from the shoulder to the elbow already . found on dresses of the “formal after- noon, informal evening” sort—as well as sleeves that follow the lines of the arm to a point just above the elbow and then flare forth in a circular frift or ruffie that partly vells the lower arm. ‘The shorter cape is sometimes founc as an adjunct to the coat or street dress and sometimes it is used with separate skirt in lieu of a short jacket. Dress Once Ca]I;d For 37 Yards The fact that & new evening frock called for 16 yards of material strikes one as rather remarkable, and women who make their own dresses or duy the material for thelr dressmakerd io use, have, of course, notice rol regret—that the two or material that sufficed & few. years ago are no longer adequate. m out poit of view 1M yards seems lavishe-yetiin 1865 37.yards of material were required to ‘make a tulle dress, and a tarlatan dress of the fash- lonable sort called for six or seven hundred yards of ruching for trim- ming.