Evening Star Newspaper, November 17, 1929, Page 67

THE SUNDAY ‘STAR, WASHINGTON, tloth Coats With L THE PINKY BEIGE TWEED €OAT AT THE LEFT HAS A FLATTERING COLLAR OF SABLE DYED SKUNK. THE BEIGE FELT HAT HAS A FEATHER PAD OF SABLE TONE AND THE PURSE REPEATS THE SABLE AND BEIGE COLOR SCHEME. THE ALL-BLACK COAT IN THE CENTER 1S OF BROADCLOTH WITH POINTED FOX BORDER ON THE CAPELET WHICH MAY BE DRAWN IN CRUSHED EFFECT ROUND THE THROAT WHEN THE ANIMAL SCARF IS NOT WORN. A WIDE FRONT OVERLAP GIVES AN UPWARD MOVEMENT TO THE COAT OF OSTRICH-FFATHER TWEED AT THE RIGHT. Many Daytime Selections Retain Straightline Silhouette—in More Creeps In and Waistline Becomes Defined. Flounces, Either at Bottom or Few Inches Above, Are Popular—Length 'of Coat May| ned by Dress, —_— Be Defiertyi i 8 BY HELEN DRYDEN. ITH dresses again an impor- tant factor in the wardrobe the separate coat appears as an important item in the clothes budget. It must serve yarious occasions, complement va- dresses and come within the price limit. The last requisite is not so easily met in a season of styles demanding more yardage, rich fabrics and sump- tuous fur trimmings. For the daytime coat which must be a8 suitable for town wear as for sports events there is the wide range of flecked, nubbed and diagonal tweeds, as well as materials in solid colors. The latter are preferred for separate coats be- cause they form such a happy partner- ship with the tweeds of the suit or dress. Then , there are various soft, rough-surfaced woolens, such as llama and camel's hair. Suede cloth, velvety woolens of the velours type, broadcloth ~both with smooth face and the brushed surfece—velveteen and velvet, all are appropriate for the more formal type of coat. For comfort in the country, dashing around in the rumble seat and cheering from the grandstand, ulsterlike coats of thick wool with deep, furlike nlle‘ have only fur-lined tweed coats and the | fur coats as rivals. | * ok k% MANY of the daytime coats retain | the straight-line silhoustte. It is | when they take on a more formal char- | acter that the flare creeps in and the ‘walstline becomes defined. The belt on the majority of the straight-line mod- els defines the new position of the waistline and suggests the flare which often is not perceptible until the wearer is in motion. Except in the most formal coats the flare is very much restrained. Often just the molding of the coat, with more fitted lines, produces it, as is illustrated by the Paquin coats with the princess silhouette. Again it is the manipula- tion of the fabric that suggests a subtle flare at the back and possibly the sides. Another popular method is the appli- cation of flounces, either at the bottom or a few inches above. They appear at the back and extend around the sides | over a straight foundation. * kX | THE length of the coat should be determined by the dress with which it is to be worn, This is especially true of the flare coat, which must cover the dress. This generally brings the full- | length coats half way down the calf. The three-quarter-length coats very often lengthen slightly toward the back | to follow the dip in the dress, or curve | ward in the front so decidedly that | they give the same effect. Cape coats are important this season. | These coats have capelets that fall | Joosely over the sleeves arranged in a | divided effect at the back. Or they may be fitted across the shoulders and fall in & flaring line to the waist. | ‘There are still others which hug the | | be dyed to match, are the hallmerk of | IT HAS C Formal Types Flare more tailored tweed coats, where a | scarf of the fabric serves as a collar, all of this season's coats are generously fur trimmed. Fur may be omitted from the cuffs, but never from the collar. FU‘R collars take on many shapes. ‘There are scarfs which may be twisted around the neck and tied or looped. Similar to these are short col- lars which stand up around the face like a frame. Other collars which stand away from the face extend part way down the front of the coat in lapel effect. The tuxedo collar is also very often extended even to the hemline. All of these collars are generally in the | flat furs, broadtail, caracul, breit- schwantz, astrakhan, Persian lamb, krimmer, beaver, Hudson seal or lapin; while the long-haired furs—Iynx, fox, wolf, raccoon, badger, stone marten, etc.—are more adaptable for the great shawl collars which also may continue as revers to the side fastening at the hip. On Vionnet's - successful black broadcloth coat the Persian lamb col- lar is so deep that it almost reaches the waist in the back. A deep band of the fur at the bottom ascends to form | an overlapping V at the front. It is| one of the coats which one is inclired to describe as of fur trimmed with | cloth. Borders of fur are almost as varied as collars. Several narrow bands of fur may encircle the coat, or a wide band may take its beginning at the | hemline in front and wind around the | coat until it reaches the opposite hip. A new and favorite way is to edge the diagonal front overlap with fur. * ok ok ok IDESPITE the color consciousness of the fashion leaders today, the lll-’ black coat is the smartest, especially for formal wear. Developed in black | broadcloth, velvet or a heavy silk, it is trimmed with the black fur—broadtail, dyed lapin, dyed lynx, Persian lamb, caracul or Hudson sel. More youthful are coats of the bright colors—a deep | red, emerald green, bright blue—trim- med with black furs. The blond furs, such as natural lynx, wolf, badger, bluz | fox and lapin, are well liked on’ both | black coats and matching brown and tan. Matching furs, even if they must | * ok Kk % the season | Although black s the leader for for- mal coats, brown and green are strong | rivals for first place for daytime, espe- | cially brown with a rosy cast and dark greens of the bottle tone and a shade | lighter. Patou's dahlia, a rich plum, is the new color which is gaining in favor | constantly, and blues are coming to the fore, particularly those with the vicl.( | tinge. With both these colors gray | furs, such as gray caracul, krimmer or fox, are becoming and smart. (Copyright, 1929.) | | Two Materials in Same Color shoulders in cape fashion and which can also be crushed around the neck like & collar. Fur invariably trims these capelets either as an edging or a border running & few inches from the edge. On the more elaborate models the entire capelet may be of fur. Sleeves of separate coats have re-| ceived special attention this season. In the more sportslike models they are The idea of providing two materials In precisely the same color and design is & new one, or at least it is only with- in recent seasons that it has been pos- | sible to buy materials of this sort spe- | cially designed to be used together. It is possible to buy printed chiffon with printed velvet of precisely the same | color and design. A charming evening | them to cut up into washcloths. Turbans and Muffs Made of Supple Fur It is a new note to have the hat match the color of the fur trimmings of the coat. It is an even newer note to wear a hat of the same fur, This is easily accomplished in the flat, supple furs which can be draped in turbans or berets with all the ease of tweed or broadcloth.” ‘These hats are, as a rule, untrimmed, save possibly for a handsome pin. 3 ‘When it’s impossible to “Hdapt the fur of the coat, as it often is with the long-haired fur, galyak may be used. This season muffs have been revived with much zest. There are barrellike balls of fur which might almost be mistaken for a lost cuff and which are often worn as a cuff. More novel are the muffs formed by lapping over one end of a long scarf of flat fur, These are adaptations of Schiaparelil's trick scarf of knitted tweed. But the most attractive—and prae- tical as well—is the combination ot rse. There is one shaped plete even to the mirror. Another type is oblong in shape and has a zipper across one side. All of them are modi- fications of Maggie Roufl’s original, which was of breitschwantz. It was large and flat, not unlike the pillow muffs we used to carry, and had u modernistic or monogram fastening in metal to open the purse flap. Linen Is Best For Washclothi Linen is the ideal material for wash- cloths because it gives up the soil so much more readily than cotton. This is | especially true of children's washcloths that naturally are used more carelessly than those of adults. | If you have any linen Turkish towels | on hand, treasure them carefully, and | when they have worn in the middle EP‘\‘IQ ‘The ends are always firm when the center part has given way and will yield sev- eral good, substantial washcloths. For young children a very good wash- cloth ¢m be made from linen hucka- back. " .als can be hemmed all around and provided with a tape loop. For 2 cotton washcloth a good selec- tion and one that is inexpensive is made’ from three thicknesses of white gauze. A doctor’s wife always has this sort of washcloth for members of her family and delights her house guests by pre- senting some to them when they come to visit her. As a matter of fact the material costs but 3 1-3 cents for a cloth and she makes them in odds and ends of time when she would be doing noth- ing else. She folds the gauze in three- ply and then, turning in the edge of the outside pieces, runs it coarsely but se- curely around the edge With wash- cloths as inexpensive as this it is an easy matter to discard one after it fails to become pure white when it comes from the laundry. Latest Footwear. Simplicity marks the new footwear. | But that doesn’t mean that it is in any | way ordinary looking. For it isn't. It is as distinctive and interesting as it had ever been in an era of great elaboration. For general wear the straight high | heel is accepted. There are, however, | many smart oxfords with lower, broader heels that may be chosen for street wear by the woman who becomes tired walking on stilt heels, And for sports wear, of course, lower and broader heels are always chosen. ‘There are colored shoes—brown, blue, purple, green. Whether you wear them or not must be decided by your own taste. Black shoes are always an al- ternative. Suede and reptile skin in matching often cut in one with the yoke, either | gown with long flowing skirt is made of | color are combined with kid in many of in front or in back, or are of the raglan | the chiffon and a knee-length coat is | the new shoes. The trimming is cut in order. may take a doimaniike shoulder effect, o little capelets may flutter over the ‘upper part of the arm. All manner of ingenious cuff ar- rangements have been devised—from the mannish tailored cuff. minus any fur, to the sumptuous applications of fur which encircle the sleeve almost to the armhole. There are the deep fiar- ing fur cuffs and the cuffs fitted at the | same colors and the same design— | instep. Oxfords are low cut, without I'm going to Tun off! | silks printed to match some of the new‘ tweeds, so that you may have a skirt of | the tweed with a blouse of the match- | other. But more often the contrast is | | ing silk. tweed, and it may be worn with the tweed it simulates—though usually it is | all in good combined with silk. Sometimes velvet is dyed to mltch{ On the more formal coats they | made of the matching velvet. There are | most decorative devices in the way of points and scrolls. Sometimes half the shoe is of one sort of leather, half an- produced by trimming bands and scrolls and insets. Oxfords, pumps and strap shoes are taste. Strap shoes show usually but one strap. The strap is high FFS OF BEAVER TO MATCH THE CRUSHED COLLAR. A amount of money. an ine: fore raf ‘Thought should be For furs are not all becoming is preferable. of the s in the afternoons to tea or on Sunda; Lack of Consistency on Part of Parents May Lead to Serious Ex- hibitions of Discour- tesy and Selfish Acts in Home Circle. BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. “WI'L!JAM, let' that cake alone. You've had three and no one else at the table has had more than one,” William's father said in a stern voice. “But it's such a little cake. Charles! And he’s so hungry. It's only lying there anyway. Nobody else wants it. You don't and I don't and Elizabeth doesn't—do you Elizabeth?” Willlam's mother asked. “Yes, I _do, but the doctor—Well, anyway, Willie doesn’t need to be a pig either,” Elizabeth differed. “Aw gowan. If it wasn't for your | complexion you'd be tearing my eyes out for that old cake! “Willie, hush! Go on and aaé it - don’t talk so much,” his mother inter- Ty ted. pwillium lifted the small confection from its white frill and swallowed it at one gulp. “I simply can’t find the rest of thi lemon ple. I've looked everywhere, announced Willlam’s mother the next day. “Dad’s just phoned he's got to have his sugmr right away to make a train for cago, and if he had a piece of pie and & cup of coffee it's all he wants. Now where is that pie? There was & good quarter left and I put it on the lower shelf of the refrigerato with a saucer over it last night myse'/. I know I did. I'll bet your father ats it bedtime.” “Willie ate it.” called Elizabeth. “I saw him. He said if dad had wanted it he’d have eaten it last night. I told him he'd catch it.” “Well I never—— Why, the little scamp! Willle—Willlam, come here! ‘Where is he? I declare, I can't keep a thing in the house—it's just too discour- aging! I—why, I covered it on purpose 5o there would be 4 little of something on hand in case—oh, dear! I could cry! Willle! Williet Come here!” “Why, what is it, Mom? What do you | want me for? Is anything wrong?" | “Such a family of pigs! work and work and I get so discour- aged! I wish some days that I was dead, so I do.” “Aw, Mom! I won't eat any more Don't cry Mom. Please!” , it’s all right this time, but you're just got to stop being so greedy and think of other people once in a while. There! Run down to the bakery and get a Boston cream pie. Dad likes thh%hfl‘\:;!'.‘ now. Elizabeth! Elizabeth!" “Where's the change from the soap you got this morning?” |” “Change? Why—a—I borrowed it on my allowance. It's due tomorrow and I owed Nettie Bertner a soda, so I—" “You didn't! You didn't dare! Why Sometimes three tweeds showing the | and comes above rather than over the —well, I know what I'm going to do. elbows and widening toward the bot- | achieved, of course, by the weave of the | bu.kles or else with a very small one. tom. And the most unusual of all is the band of fur extending up the back of the sleeve to the armhole. These applications of fur in collars, borders, insets and various geometric | and a full-length, fur-collared topcoat | of feet above the eart) encrustations are adapted with a lav- .ish hand. With the exception of the | material’—are used together. One tweed in small design is used for the skirt. A | hip-length jacket is made of the same | sort of tweed in slightly larger pattern, | is made of the same sort of tweed in | stdll larger design, etk Unrestricted Air and Sunlight. Aerial hospitals, suspended thousands from enormous balloons, are suggested as a means of giving sufferers pure air and sunlight. Here it is time |for your father to be here any minute now and not a thing for him to eat and | not a cent in the house. The groceries and meat won't be here for an hour. I hope you're ha{py. young lady, steal- ing money and then—" “Why, Mom, I didn't steal it. Last | week I borrowed my entire allowance 0. UL Coats—Cloth or Fur? WELL cut cloth coat of good material, fur trimmed, is often a far better investment than a cheap-looking fur coat, costing the same There are more occasions on which a cloth coat can be worn than nsive fur coat, which is usually of the sports variety, and there- limited as to the times and places for which it is appropriate. ven to selecting a fur that is becoming. light, some in dark, for some long hair is better and for others a flat pelt A fur coat should never be bought hurriedly. One should well con- sider, first of all, just what service is most expectéd of having the right thing for the righ one of the most important questions of dress. For the woman who can afford only one, it should not be too much rts type, because then it will not be formal enough for wearing Obedience in the Family Yes, I called yuu4F 1 work lndl ple, honest I won't, or cake or anything. | NOVEMBER 17, THE ERMINE WRAP AT THE LEFT HAS CUL COAT IN THE CENTER HAS A WIDE OVERLAP IN THE TUCKINGS DEFINE CUFFS ON 1929_—PART THREE. THE SLEEVES, AND THE NOSE onger Lines Are Richly Trimme A CIRCULAR FLOUNCE AND A GENEROUS WHITE FOX SHAWL COLLAR. THE BLACK CARA- ONT AND COLLAR SHIRRED IN THE BACK TO FRAME THE FACE. VELL ON THE VELVET HAT ACCENTS THE FORMALITY OF THE OC- CASION. THE GRAY SQUIRREL COAT AT THE RIGHT IS DISTING UISHED BY DIAGONAL TREATMENT OF THE FUR AND A GREAT SHAWL COLLAR EXTENDING TO THE WAISTLINE. THREE TABS OF FUR SUGGEST CUFFS. THE GRAY FELT HAT IS TRIMMED WITH BLACK. to all women. Some look better in of it. This is a day t occasion, so fur coats have become HELEN DRYDEN. t'lubruhole days ahead ot; time lé\:t ofhtha 35 you gave me pay the shoe- maker. - When I came home and told you you said that it was all right—I could do it any time at all if I really ::e‘f'?d the money, Don't you remem- 1f 1 said anything so silly about your | allowance I must have been out of my mind. Oh, there he is now. Is that you. Charles?” “Hello! I'm sorry. Hope you didn't get up a big feed. I'm not going till to- morrow. Just had a wire. But the day was gone and I thought you and I could go into town for some supper and g0 to a show. I got my bonus today and it was a pippin, too!” “Can I go?” Willlam speaking. ‘Can I go, too?” Elizabeth's voice. 'Oh, no! You kids don’t need to | everywhere we go. Can't they get their | own supper, May?"” “‘Oh, let's take them, Charles. Please! ‘They've been such good children today and they don’t have much fun.” “Well, Then hustle!” Parents who change their policy of child-governing every day can't expect their children to understand which rules are in force each time a problem arises. When an action which a mother en- courages one day is tabooed the next day and favored the next children are | placed in such a quandary that they learn to scheme in order to secure their ~=m ends. If a father and mother do not agree n a definite method of control the child’s perplexity is increased and he learns to use his wiles on the parent who is most likely to yleld to his desires. Children will be taught obedience when they are confronted with a few fair rules which are not amended every tt?n‘n a parent takes the notion to change Clocks as Comfort | To Housewives No housewife realizes how much she depends on the knowledge of the time at all hours of her working day as she | does on that day when she has broken the mainspring of her watch, the alarm kitchen clock is going slow and the living-room clock suddenly runs down | and stops because somebody forgot to | wind it. Housewives of many centuries ago did | not know the luxury of the constant | kno'vledge of time. Clocks were too ex- nsive to be Pnlmled by every small fl;uuholder. f they livexfin village or | town they often could keep track of the | passing hours by the striking of the | tower clock on church or other public building. But now there is hardly any one who cannot afford some sort of timeplece. ‘There is less disposition to display a variety of ornamental clocks in every |room of our house than there was a | generation ago, when clockmakers | seemed to conspire with each other to | see_ which could put his clocks in the most_fantastic cases. You may avoid | having a clock in ir formal reception room, but in the living room you have a clock in plain sight. In placing {our clock remember that they do not like extremes of tempera- ture. Don’t put a hanging clock on an exposed -outside wall. Don’t put a clock on a ledge over the kitchen stove where it is often surrounded by steam. Don't put & clock near a window, where it Remember that a clock must be taken to the jeweler's every year or so, whether it is in order or not. so that it clock is running frightfully fast, the | i Flares for Wraps vs. Straight.Lines A flare has appeared in the new fur coats to dispute the po‘a‘ulamy of the straight-line. And now that the peltries are 50 soft and supple that it is possible to manipulate them as one would cloth, the more fitted lines and flares can be easily adapted. The choice is much the same as in the cloth coats—the straight- line model for utility and daytime wear and the flared for formal occasions. Smartest among sports models this season is the tailored leopard coat. When a contrasting fur is desired, a red fox collar is added. The foreign vcrsion is in chevrette, young goat or supple black pony. There are also correct coats in gray or beige kid, nutria, beaver, ocelot, sheared panther and® the collegiate fa- vorite, raccoon. These sports coats may extend the full length or the seven-eighths limit. Some are built on swagger lines with a flare from the shoulder. Others have straight lines with a slight flare, which results largely from the snug belting. | You will also find many yokes and cra- | vat collars as well as soft convertible | collars made of the fur of the coat. For the coat to be worn both in town and at sEorLs events lapin is the new fur which is creating something of a furore. It is not an expensive pelt and it is so flat and supple it can be tailored like a cloth, eliminating any of the bulkiness to which women who must retain & slenderizing silhouette object so seriously in the shaggy furs. It is dyed in a variety of colors, practically all of the beige and gray beige tones, deepening to a dark tan. In the pastel tints it is used with much satisfaction for evening capes. For sports it may be lined with tweed and made reversible. It is the preferred fur for the short coat €0 | to_complete the tweed dress. For the more formal coat the princess | silhouette is growing in favor. Here fitted lines terminate in low-placed grace and chic of this style is seen to excellent advantage in a coat of Sum- mer ermine bordered with stone marten, also in a gray broadtail with silver fox In these fiared coats you will find black and gray caracul, broadtail, moire caracul, astrakhan, breitschwantz, Per- sian lamb, ermine and mink. Both matching and contrasting furs are used in collars and cuffs and other discreet trimming. Sable is often seen with broadtail. There is as much diversity in collars of fur coats. There are cravat scarfs of flat furs to be tied at one side of the throat or looped in front; great shawl collars extending to the waistline; ani- mal collars draped over the shoulders, and convertible capelets, occasionally bordered with a contrasting fur. All are in good standing. For evening wraps ermine is the uni- versal choice, and generally in white. Occasionally Summer ermine is chosen on account of its beige coloring, and mink is selected by women who must have a certain amount of service in an evening wrap. When this wrap is long, it is very long, covering the dress and following its lines. A circular flounce is often added to obtain this increased length, for evening gowns go to great lengths, or a shaped band of the fur may be applied across the back when the l:ng.fl'clkn( the frock is concentrated Schoo?éi;l Wears Simple Clothes Almost all normal children wish to be older than they are. To be “grown up" seems to be the height of the ambition of almost every boy and girl. This ac- counts for the fact that, if left to their own devices, most youngsters would dress themselves in bad taste. Girls of 6 would select the frocks and hats and coats suitable for girls of 12, and 12- year-old girls would wear clothes like those of their 16-year-old sisters, and i+ mor? Ruable ‘or the youms’ man: or the! - "’,{.’ m:“' ; young mar. eachers in the city public schools will tell you that a nu.r‘r‘nber of their charges use much. powder and rouge, lipstick and even eyebrow pencil. They sometimes go in for perfume and sachet and regard silk stockings as an every- day necessity. But the observing who do these things usually do not come from the best class of homes. Well bred mothers are apt to draw a rather strict line between what a girl may do before she is 16 or 18 and what a girl may do after. Usually so long as .| she is in high school or its equivalent | Uired to dress with girlish sim- | igh heels are not for her, nor | can be cleaned. are earrings, nor beaded blouses nor ex- tremely transparest ones, flares which are evenly distributed. The | teacher will also tell you that the girls | Drooping Brim or a Season. BY MARY MARSHALL. N inch, more or less, of hat on the forehead, abstractly speak- ing, is a trifling matter, | even granting that it is signifi- | cant, the chance visitor from Mars couldn't ibly sce why the additional inch should signify one thing in 1926 and quite another thing in 1929. Yet the fact remains that the woman | who showed her noble brow three years | ago was considered either indifferent to fashion or incapable of grasping its intricacies, whereas woman who does not show her brow this season is looked upon as lacking in smartness. Invariably the new hats are de: to be worn off the forehead. If there is any softening of this rather severe line it is to be gained from a slightly drooping brim or a veil rather than by fringe or loop of hair. American women, finding the new line rather try- ing, have persisted in showing their hal French women, knowing that these new hats were never designed to be worn in this way, have shown much greater inclination to revive vells than we have up to the present time. French milliners this season insist on having their customers try on their hats before a long pier glass. Not only must one be sure that the color is pre- cisely right for the gown but also that | the lines of the hat are suitable to the | proportions of the figure. There are | hats that are just as truly right for the short, broad figure as others are suitable | only for the tall, slender figure. * ok ok % | AND while the arrangement of the drapery of the hat and the pro- | portioning of the brim at side and back | should be made as becoming as possible | to the face of the one who is to wear the hat, they should also have a direct bearing on her height and general pro- | portions. Only a well rtioned woman, who is neither very tall nor This Use of Costumes Is. More Convenient Than Old-Fashioned Way — Certain Ac- cessories Are Found Not to Be Suitable. FASHIONABL! people a generation or two ago drew a much finer dis- tinction between what they considered ‘npprnprilte for afternoon and that for morning. | The fact that women as well as men |lead such busy lives nowadays makes them loath to spend so much time changing their clothes. A woman likes to dress when she goes out in the morn- ing in a way that will seem suitable all the afternoon. What usually happens, then, i that instead of making her morning costume answer for the afternoon she dresses for the afternoon in the morning. We all know office workers, stenographers and typists who appear at 9 o'clock in the morning in frocks that are suitable for | a dance in the evening. It is so much | easier than the old-fashioned way | bringing the party frock in | changing in the dressing | office hours. Now it is quite possible to dress in the morni in a way that will be | suitable both for the morning and for almost all afternoon occasions. But cer- tain costumes and accessories that are eminently suitable for afternoon are | not suitable for morning. And the tendency among women of taste and good breeding is to ref from this sort of afternoon get-up when it must be donned in the morning. and, | ghould never [New Hats Invariably Are Designed to Be Worn Off the Forehead—Any Softening of This Severe Line Is Gained by Slightly Veil—Comfort in Mil: linery Is One of Demands of the Present very short, should attempt to wear the closely-draped turban of hat, and the soft bonnet type of hat with gath- ered extension at the nape of the neck be attempted by thé woman of over-robust build. rulé to make and to keep res hats this season is not to cori= 'ty been designed for perfect comfork. It is simply a matter of select ltm of hat that suits the shape of he and the manner of their arrangemenft of insisting on one that is made of soff, lightweight materials and of getting the right size. A hat that is too large may be quite as uncomfortable as one that is too small. * K ok ok Mnmm no longer charge the exaggeratedly high prices for maks ing hats to mieasure and there are all sorts of attractive toques, berets and bonnets that may be easily adjusted to suit the head size. While the new hats almost always cover the ears, they are not designed to press closely upon the ears, and there is, of course, no longer the pressure against-the forehead that was the source of so many headaches a season or so ago. To be on the safe side of fashiom always wear a hat that exactly matches your coat or suit or street dress in color or one of black. Black is always good, and especially so this season, when mas light and soft. terials are unusually With coats or suits of mixed mate: either the strong or the neutral color note may be repeated the hat. Bright-colored hats may be worn with black dresses, but this is a fashion for afternoon or restaurant wear—a black canton crepe dress, for instance, with & small hat of emerald-green velvet—and ot one that is well followed for every- day street wear. Diamonds, save an en?.mnt ring, . (Copyright, 1920.) Afternoon Style in Morning are still out of place in the morning. In general, elaborate earrings are avoided. The carefully bred young woman makes a difference in the sort of shoes she wears in the morning, too. In general, the type of clothes and accessories that we call “sports” are best adapted for moming. Satin slip~ pers and rhinestone buckles are best left for afternoon or evening. What do you year as a working uniform? ‘This question, put to a group of women who do some or all the work of their houses, would bring very different and very interesting answers. - the harder sort af these always for working frocks. soll more quickly, perhaps, than colored gingham frocks, but they can be boiled and washed Nl‘l:e without numoer an= of & and | admit of ki bag to the knees, and so completely covered.