Evening Star Newspaper, October 14, 1928, Page 72

THE SUNDAY STAR. WASHINGTON, D. C. OCTOBER 1f 1928 PAR Paris Sponsoring BY MARY MARSHALL. HE cloth coat for Winter az it is presented this season cannot -possibly be regarded as a sort of limit-dress-allowance alternative for the fur coat. nor can fur trimming be looked upon as a consola- tion for not wearing an ali-fur t Though this point of view is har fashionable attitude toward Winter wraps at any time. it has surely been a popular one. But these new cloth coats prove its absurdity. There is nothing second best about them. 1t i. not a question of choosing be- tween the fur coat and the cloth coat— counting your pennies—considering the high cost of gasoline and the higher cost, of food. and then deciding whether or not you can afford to be coated all in fur or not, because as things are now the cloth coat may be every bit 25 expensive as the fur one and there are fur coats well below the price of many of the new coats of cloth and fur. There are times. places. occasions and moods for both types of coats and in the wardrob. of the woman of fash- fon they hang side by side without com- peting for honors There. were women—and still are. 1 suppose—whn have felt that a definit> choice should be made betwesn the two sorts of coats. A fur coat. like the old- time woolen underwear. was somethinz that you had to wear through the s»a- son or not at all. So you decided either for fur coats or cloth coats. and vou'd catch your death of cold if you tried to wear first ane sort and then th~ other the zeme season. That seemed to be the idea, and the weman with enly one fur coat was likely to appear ceoing her morning marketing in. Per- cian lamb or going to an evening party in muskrat. Early last Spring 1 chanced tn meet a usually well dressed voung neighbor of mine kneeling in the path of her rose garden. She was superintendinz the work of new ner and she were-old workman's gloves 2nd a baby lamb coat. I commented on the rather amazing incongruity of her ros- tume and she explained. as sh2 brushed briars from the soft, silky peltry of her coat. that she had only two fur coats— the one sh> was wearing and an ermine eone for eveninz. And as she did not think' it was warm enough to give uo | furs entirely. and as she had wanted to direct the work in the rose garden. she had just put on thc baby lamb coat That. of course. is an extreme case. Still, there dre plenty of women who feel that they should stick to a fur coet once they have started to wear it. But this really is mcst inconveniont and new that fur coats are made of peltries of the thinner. more fabric-like sort, and cloth coats are as warm and cozv as you please, it is an absurd atfi- tude. If you take care to wear your heavy fur coat with a fairly thin froc and your furless cloth coat with a woolen frock there is no reason why you shouldn't feel as well protected in| ene as the other. | Cloth coats without fur of any sort are chosen by some women for sports | end travel. The seasoned ocean v eger usually prefers a coat of this s made of soft but light-weight cam: cloth or one of the new coat tweeds | znd with 2 generously built rolling col- lar that may be worn up around the neck and face to give ample protection without fur. Almost always coats of this description this season are made with a flare—not the flare that starts from below the hips. but the flare from | the shoulder—cleverly designed to give | the new effect of fullness without as a matter of fact detracting from the elenderness of the figure. | One excellent model of this sort, | made of soft wool mixture. has raglan sleeves, seams with a double row of | stitching, a mannish collar that can. however, be turned up to give ample protection and a buckled belt placed almost at the normal waist line. It j= | drawn in slightly when properly ad- | justed, giving that effect of gathering | i at the waistline that the more | slender weman finds =0 becoming. Coats for afternoon, including those that are part of afternoon ensemble: are almost always collared with f and fur frequently forms cuffs of gen- | erous dimensions and sometimes edges | #ide panels or forms full borders a: | well. This season. when a woman can | afford it, she has really fine peltry tor these trimmings. The time has passed | ‘when rabbit would do as well as ermine and goat would answer the purposes of | Persian lamb for trimming. It is a| #2250n of lavishness and the woman of | wealth is given to understand by her | dressmaker that sable and ermine, Per- sizn lamb and the best fox fur are none oo good to trim the cloth cost. Fox is often used and usually in nat- ural er at least naturalistic tones. A black velvet ensemble worn with a blouse of metallie stripes of bronze tone has a full, short collar of red tox with cuffz of the same fur. Black fox. gilver fox and pointed fox 2re chosen for meny of the smart black coats of vet or broadcloth. Black lynx sometimes used for the all-black co tume, but this season lynx is at its best in the natural, grayish tones. A coat of sports suggestion that a young woman might wear for afternoon one of the new figured tweeds in blac | a turning | 2nd great charm of personality. RLACK COAT WITH BEIGE CAR- Actl STOLE COLLAR AND CUFFS, THE DAILY HOROSCOPE Monday, October 15. Astrologers read tomorrow as a for- tunate day for most activities and eoun- sel progressive work of all sor in the early morning hours. There is a good sign for initiative and there should be a positive effort as a beginning of the week. which may be unusually eventful. This should be an auspicious rule for signing contracts or agreements, unless they concern the tneater or motion pictures, All the planetary aspects appear to indicate a tendency to enlarge all busi- ness so that organization reaches a peak never before attempted. Workers should benefit in the next few months, but they are warned to conserve their earnings. Women are to follow the example of men in developing their business inter- ests, so that they expand into many ranches, it is prophested. One of the anomalies of trade will be the multiplying of small shops, while the great department stores grow and expand, it is forecast, Again the scers prognosticate for American women added beauty and charm. for they are to rsturn to the cultivation of “natural loveliness, as they eliminate cosmetics. ~Thus his- tory repeats itself. Elegant ‘simplicity is fo rule, if the | stars are rightly read. and there will he toward culture instead of entertainment. According to ancient lore, it should | be a lucky day for engagtng woman employes. especially thoss who belong to the higher vocaticns. Woman law; time trom the planetery government, which presages success and high honor. Persons whose birth date it is prob- ably will have exacting problems to meet in the coming year which will bring out shrewdness and resourceful- ness. Children bern on that day probably will be endowed with keen intellects Many succeed as dramatists and girls are generally gifted, with talents as actress- es. Beauty is one of the attributes that belong to them. (Coprizht, 1975.) Concerning Iccbergs. MONG the perils and wonderé of the ocean there are few more in- teresting things than fcebergs—inter- esling not only by reason of their gigantic size, thoir fantastic shapes. (heir exceeding beauty. but also for the manner wherein they array themselves except | rs are to benefit at this | | | _ENSEMBLE WITH A FUR.C |Straw Flowers [ | Make lLovely Winter Color Straw flowers make one of th- lovely Winter decorations for our rooms,! | giving us all the color and heauty of | flowers without the expense attend- ant on such fragile blooms as roscs and ecarnations, chrysanthemums and daffodils, For even though chry: anthemu! may last for a week, with care, anc roses for two or three days if we enip their stems and put salt in their water, stiil they are delicate | things that fade quickls | | Straw flowers, on the other hand, | last all Winter if they are not care lessly broken when thoy are occasion- ally gently shaken to free them from dust. | Helichrysum is the botanic name of these iovely straw flowers that we, some | of us, grow in our gard: of us buy from th» florist. They have been improved within the last few years til they are produced in such gorgeous colors that they have gained tremendous vogu®. Sometimes when you buy everlast- ings you will find that the stems have | been wires If you want u can take out thes> wires. Sometimes the wires are run through the head of ths flower, | and must be removed carefully. But still, if you bend them straight—the u can pull them through the holding it with gentle firm- 1 , without any harm Sometimes the wiring is necessary, | for the stems of the flowers are not stronz enough to hold up the heads. In that case, make sure that ths wir- inz does not show unduly. It is easy enouzin to twisi end turn the wires | until they are clos> to the stems and | inconspicuous, One clever woman has made lands of everlastings and fastened them along a mirror over her fire- | place. She used green wire and nat- ural-colored raffia to fasten the flowe: togather. and tied them with bows of Stiff, narrow ribbon at the tips of the festoons. Such garlands take time to maka, but they are really very attrac- tive, and are also fun to make. You would have ta buy a good many bunches of flowers—but then, you s, and others | gar- AT LEFT. BEIGE CLOTH COAT WITH WIDE B OLLAR AND A |a rent EAVER COLLAR AND them in a big vase. or use a few of them in a smaller one. Dull pottery, brass or bronze all make admirable vases for these flowers, as they are opaque—and the stems are the least atiractive thing about everlastings. Thoy come in such beautiful shades of red and orange. fose, maroon, lemon and wine color that they add a rich color note to any room where you use them, Street Needlewomen. YHINA is, perhaps, the only country “ in the world where one may have | mended on the street while he waits. In nearly all the chiefl cities of the country native sewing women are to b> seen scated on lew stools. perhaps on the sidewalk. mend- ing articles of masculine wearing ap- parel. The accomplishments of these street seamstresses are somewhat limited, the efforts with the needle heing confined, as a rule, to “running.” Other branches of needlework are virtually unknown to them. As a conssquence their foi's are botter appreciated by nativ than by foreign travelers. They are never short of patrons amonz the Chinese tradesmen, for these are often natives of other tricts, and having come to the city to engage in business have no one to mend for them. Their wives being left at home, they are glad to employ the street ncedlewomen. For this class of customers the skill of the itinerant seWing woman Answers everv purnece. his garments CUFFS. THEN A GREEN TWEED COLLAR. Fashion Favors Mode | For Colored Stones Den't forget that an interest in col- ored stones has been revived. For there may b2 rings and brooches and earrings containing emeralds, sapphires, | | rubies—or at any rate topazes, ame- th d garnets—in your jewel box partment where vou keep the family heirlooms. And though you may not want to wear these ornaments in’ their original setting, they may be taken out and used in some other arrangement, | bird. without doing any harm to the old | mountings whatever. And it is many years since colored stones have been in ~h favor. One wears the precious stones such as emeralds. rubics and sapphires com- bined with diamonds or pearls for eve- ning, while for afternoon the so-called semi-precious stones are more in favor. Fairly long neck chains have come back in fashion and those are some- times made with tourmaline, topaz. rose | qua garnets and amethyst as well as with jade and amber. In choosing your amber remember that the new fashion is for the redder pieces and if in your collection you have any of this ruddier sort you are | have adapted is | ground conditions are sharply differ- indeed to be congratulated. highly prized at present. Coral ornaments usually in combina- tion with some enamel settings or other stones are in some demand, though an expert, on such matters adds lightly that coral, like turquois2, should be worn enly by the debutantes, I Eleven small editions | | s arn | the animals of the cates is unique. | oF In the box in your safe deposit com- | Lavish Use of Fur With Cloth in New Coats IMPORTED UMBRELLA CELLULOID €4S A NEW CLOVE OF WHITE DOESKIN WITH BOUND SCALLOPS AND A STRAPPED RRAC T AND A HANDBACG HALF LEATH.- R, HALF OF METAL. The Drinking Orchid. N orchid has been discovered In cuth America which, when thirsty, takes a drink by letting down a tubz into the water. Wh-n not in uss the tubs is eoiled up on top of the plant. One het afternoon, as the discoverer was seated under some brushwood at the cf a lagoon an the Rio de 1a” Piata, he obcerved near at hand 2 forest of dead tress that had evidently been choked to death by orchids and climbing czcti. In front of the titan- stretching over the waters of the lagoon 2nd about a foot above. was a branch of one of thess decad trees. Te there clusiers of common + plants mrew on it and a network of green cacti twined around it Amonz th» hids th> discoverer no'cd on» Cifforent from all the rest the leavas, of lance-head shape, grow- ing ail around th» root and radiating from it. From the center. or axi the plant hung a long. slender stem about. one-eighth of an inch thick and cne-fourth of an inch wide. Th= lower end of this was in ths water io a depth of about 4 inches. The botanist at once went o ~=mine his discoverr, and to hi en he toushd the plant the tam gradually contracted and eonvulsively rolled 1tsoIf w 1 oll ef tape., It w examination (hat ths stem was a long. slender, flat tu open at the outer end and connected at the inner end to th= roots by a sories of hair-like tubes. Snubsequent ohzervations disclosed the fact that whon th» plant was in need of water this tubs would gradually un- ind till it dipped inio the lake. Then it_would slowly coil around and wind un. carrying with it the quantity ef water that the part of the tube which had been immersed contained. When tha final coil was made the water wa: poured. as it were, directly inte th- roots of the plant. WITH SLIGHTLY FITTING BLUE COAT AT LEfi WITH SCARF COLLAR AND VERY DEEP CUFFS OF PER. SIAN LAMB. AT RIGHT. BLACK VELVET ENSEMBLE WITH RED FOX COLLAR AND A LAME BLOUSE. Subterranean Life trensparent. The eye atrophics or alto- Y et gethor disappears. Th> optic norve §UBTERRANEAN animal life presents and the cptic lobes vanish, leaving h= *" many curious featurss. The life of Drain extraordinarily modified. Other ; Tho | 0rzans develop in proportion; thos= of subterranean forms of life develop, re. | foarin: smell and touch bicome en- produce and die entirely without sun- ' 218°G 0 & degree. Senstive hairs. light _Amone such forms of Jife there | fons, | gl ? ; is none of the mammal form. except 2% a species of rat: and thars is no cave Then, too, none of the subter- rancan animals requires much nourish- ment, The greater abundance and varisty of this life is met in grottoes with un- derground rivers. Usunlly the subter- ranean life resembles the' general f of the country. It has enterad the «cav and there become scclimated. under- 20ing curinus adaptive modifications. So it_happens that we senorally find. in modified forms, the lite of our own time, It some caverns, hawever, there seem to be disclosed the remains of an ancient animal life that has evervwhere cise disappeared from the terrestial rivers, living only in the caverns, | The creatures of modern species that themselves to under- alting the Newly Born. »\ CURIOUS custom cbtains in Asa T and of Europe, may be desc ‘galtifz tho new!y born.” Those wha favor this custom belirve that evil spiriis are driven away by it and that if salted child is rengih2ned for life. The Russian Armenians entirely cover «he bare skin of the child with fine sal eaving the vietim in pickle at leas three hours. Afterward the body is washed in warm w: 5 In parts of Asia Minor the newly born child is placed in brine and left there for 24 hours. Certain tribes of Greece powder their children with sait. and the same cusiom is in use in parts of Germany some par's ed 2 found en 2ntiated from the dwellers in the light. Their skin is of a whitish hue or else Icebergs exhibit a tendency to form | would be acquiring a decoration that gray and a vellowish beigs and the gen- erous cuffs and collar that extends to the waist are ef this natural colored Cznadian Iynx. '’ One of the most generally admired ensembles I have seen was of the new bright red with straight border of na‘- ural Canadian Iynx on the skirt—a gensrous collar trimming of the same fur and cuffs left untrimmed. To trim coats of the new wine red tones black 1s usually chosen—f¢ Iynx if you went a full collar or Percian lamb if you prefer the flattor | peitry. Sometimss black Persian lamn or cther black furs zre used to trim ceats of the new blue tones—though the cmer effect with blue I think 1s gained when it is cellared with gray krimmer. Beaver, which was revived for Au- tumn by one or two of the more con- servative French dressmakers, goss well with th= afttrnoon ensemble of brown or beige. (Copsrizht. 1278.) Dwarf Trees of Japan. TT 1z the northeoastern part of Japan that is celebrated for its suceess in dwarfing trees has bien deemed the highest taste on the part of houschelders to display ebout their dwellings such trees. form ing miniature patches of exquisite land: #cape For some vears the for Japenese dwarfed trees hes increasing, and those Imported from the 1sland empire bring good prices. At one sale 600 trees brought nearly §$10.- 0n0. A maple about 40 in-hes in height was sold for $117. Pines in Japan are considered to be the most important of dwarf trees, and eat care is taken in their cultivation nd preservation. They are generall grown from sced. It is said to tak: sbout 10 years for th» effectual rear- ing of a dwarf pine. From the second year, when the trees are about 8 inche: in height, the training into the desired shapes is carried on. The plants are taste been American tied with rice straw to bamboo canes | and are bent into different forms. Not until the seventh year is this proc varied. Then the trees are potted, the Thera for centuries it | both clusters and long lines, and these groupings may arise from the effects both of ocean currents and of storms. Some very singular lines of bergs, extending for many hundreds of miles east of Newfoundland, have been shown on official charts issuad by the Govern- | ment. Two of these cross each other. | cach keeping on its independent courss | after the erossing. In several instances | paralle! lines of horgs leave long spaces | of clear water beiwaen them. Curious'y enough. while enormous ficlds of dce invade fthe so-called “steamer lanes” of the Atlantic at the | opening of Spring during certain years, in othor yvears at that season there is | comparatively littls ice tn b» seen. The ice comes, of course. from the edges of | the Arctic regions, from the ice-bound | coasts of Greenlond and Labrador where huge beras, broken from the , | front of the glaciers at the point where | ihey reach the sea, start on their long ' fourneys toward the South, driven by | the great current that flows from Baf- fin's Bay into the northern Atlantic | Ocean PHOTOGRAPHS | COPIED-RENEWED ENLARGED-BY Y./ -Wachrach- 57 1347 Conn. Ave. * Pot t0ws, | | would last all Wintor. of famous beauty-giving | I pots being about 1!, feet in diameter.’ Great care must be taker three years to keep pinched back. American gardeners studying * Japanese method have, it iz sa evolved a system somewhat of their own, and one experimenter has asserted that he could grow a whole forest in a for the next voung shoots h i fad pedroom without crowding the furni-, ture. While the Japanese confine thelr ef- vty largelr to evergreens, Amerizans Rave cuarfed deciduous trees. 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