Evening Star Newspaper, November 29, 1925, Page 96

2 THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. Adventurous Travelers Approach Advance Into a Region of Intrigue, Walled Cities and Villages Under the Ground—Make progress Up the Artery of the Ages, “The Most Important High- way in the World"—Famed and Schem- ing Sian-Fu—Heart of the Flowery Kingdom. At the start of tha present icle, the third of a series of ur, the author, after a disas. trous loss of “face” In under- taking to run a Peking news paper under Chinesa ownership, had joined an expadition, sent out by the International Rellef ssm*rm'inn under the Rev. Dr. ohn D. Hayes, to investigate the reports of famine dist n the far-west province of Shensi On the way they stopped off to visit the able and Interesting reneral, afterward to become ictator of China, Wu Pei-fu Mr. Close had seen much of General Wu in the past and was destined to see much more of him {n the future. At this time Wu was holding his army intact marking time in Honau Gen- eral Wu sent with them an es- cort to Shenst Upton Close fs a pen name evolved from a signature origi nated by the author when he was sending out dispatches secretly from Shantung —“Up Close.” His real name is Josef Wash- ington Hall, former correspond- ent for a news service in China and now lecturer nn Pacific Asfa at the University of Wash ington BY UPTON CLOSE. ENERAL WU, in of our call upon the American se ward Chang Manchurian himself. We Americans felt of all kinds shou to which he agreed heard in Peking, anced to re mark, “that Chang has made a com pact h the military governor of 8henst, Chen Shufan, to your rear here." Wu's eves curl came true,” he tha course him. asked the chieftain, and| that informed | military chiefs | 1 be done away with, flashed and the sinister h! lips. “If it is repeating, after his mannerism. the important words of the sentence several times. s world becomes too small for both me and Chen Shu-fan of Shensi I will not endure such a threat I wondered if I had “started something,” but I greatly concerned Chen He was to mean more o me later Our Lorses were shaggy. short neck ed, 1bby-legged creatures. looking as i ‘they might combine a Chinese in- the vicious traits vuse & along a bearing said, innocently was not vet of the Montana o was ridi when rade, on a ut war; precipi noticed that Haves, was level four feet above & te leaped for the higher tra & Haves' horse. For a moment it looked as though horses and riders were to he precipi tated together into the mud heneath Hayes brushed past. and i off and seized my mount's head Hayves eame back to help. and we pulled the ponv up by the neck Melting snow lay over rugged country to the west, between the plateau and that in Shensi From the top of a high ridge one evening, we sighted Shanio. Fields of sprouting grain stretched below us | into distance until, far away they merged their tender green into the dull platinum of a crenellated wall Behind sparkled the curving roofs of the old city We were in the the best country abreast With loess badlands to grow crops, the vilest to get them out of. Fordin a tributary under the Shanjo walls next morning, we passed a great gate in the mountain and entered ‘“‘the de. filss” of the Great Northwest High way. This is a road worn two hundred fest below the surface of the plateau by three thousand years of continuous travel; 5o deep with mire water in the wet season that carts are hullt boat-shaped. allowing them to along the top when their wheels fail to strike bottom; so full of fine loess dust in the dry season that animals frequently go over their heads and strangle In the drifts, and riders are forced to wear masks over their faces. That road is the worst important high way in the world! We had to stem the stream of wheat carts bringing thousands of sacks of Kensu's excellent, hardKker- neled product down to the starving millions below the deflles. An acci dent_blocking road would throw hundreds of icles jam. Drivers would h and camp pa- tlently beside t beasis for hours, or even days, while the cic trafc slowly bled itself out. Horges, camels, and shenzas could squeeze through at such times. Thus we were able to pass with little de lay, but our cart luggage was usually many hours behind us. Benham’s comfortable shenza was our salvation, for he would generously exchange its luxury for our hard saddles when we became tired. * kv % Dzeeichuan, & city in seven levels, a cave inn. The wayside. And at excavated homes we had to put up at sleeping-kangs were buflt under the window, just beside the door at the front We found the cave warm and dry. Our horses were stabled in open front, excavated stalls. Passing out of Dung-Gwan in the midst of a caravan of hundreds of carts, litters, camels and foot travel- ers. we skirted the sheer cliffts over- looking the confluence of the Wel and Yellow Rivers, and emerged onto the valley floor of the Wel, in the shadow of the Hwa Mountains. The people of this region claim that China took its native literary name “Hwa Gwo" sometimes translated “Flowery Kingdom"—from the sacred mountain which towers awesomely above them. in Chinese cosmogony Hwa Shan fs the pivotal center of the earth, mos holy of the “Five Sacred Mountains. At sundown we drove into the little City of Lintung. Here Mr. Chang met i dressed in a silk top hat and morning coat, above baggy satin trousers hound in at tha ankie! He had discovered too late, he explained in good ‘college Amerfean.” that moths had banqueted upon the seat of his dress trousers. Ha was a gradu ate of Nanking Christian University, and was now, he announced, commis sfoner of foreign affairs in the pro- vincial goverenment Whether the civil governor or Shensi that, he admitted, was at times un certain to himself. But on this oc caslon, under order of the civil digni ary, he had come 20 miles with an wdditional guard of honor to escort us into the capital The next morning. in lacquered and gilded carts, we advanced amid our escort toward Sian, anclent metropolis of Northwest China. At the Ba Bridge, a marvel of solid masonry a quarter mile in length, Mr. Chang halted ou carts to awalt the official of welcome After an hour, the committee arriv. ed. A prefect hore the civil governor's card, and said his excellency would meet us at the city's gate. Chen Shu fan, the military governor or tuchun, merely sent a card by a junior off cer, and a message that he would he clad to entertain us any time we wish ed to call at headquarters. We im mediately concelved a liking for him PR or the military was the head of committee "THE few miles across the plain to the huitressed city wall were quickly passed. With the possible ex ception of Babylon. no Oriental city has been so protected by massive ram part and gaping moat. The triple gates are so arranged that one must nd a figure “S” from one to the next between the high walls At the last Civil Governor Lui Djenhwa was walting—a man of mid dle age. gentle, informal manner and cherubic face. We discovered him to be a graduate of the Peking School of Justice and holder of post-gradu ate honors by virtue of a lieutenancy nder White Wolf, celebrated brig. and and_terrorist of the days of nchu decadence. Our route was down a broad avenue leading through the Manchu district ruined during the revolution. The re cent destruction blended Into the al stretch of the walled s the Tang Palace. The k facing of the eighth century imperial walls of molded loess had been almost entirely stolen, but their body still stood. ‘The grounds had become a public playground and pas | turaga. The walls of Slan once inclosed one and a half million persans, and they now protect about a third as many Her Main street was coated with mud Traffic was making a detour to avoid an enthusiastic dog fight In the center of the city we passed under the Bell Tower, massive enough for its archea to take In the intersec tion of the principal north-and-south street with the avenue. On a framed signboard high up under the pointed eaves was the legend “‘Wen wo sheng 1 — flly and militarlly we sur mount the earth.” 1In the western part of the city its counterpart, the Drum Tower, bears the words “Sheng ming gao tien”—"Our fame ix high as heaven.” The city of the Hans and Tangs does not suffer from excessive modesty. Little by little we penetrated the politics of the situation, cleverly in volved with native and mission char ities of honest intent. An < neighborhood will have its exampl of real distress. Added to that, hordes of refugees were coming in from the east. The missionaries easily were misled to belleve that just outside the limited area known to each person aliy the conditions were approaching the state of trus famine—hence their “THE MILITARY GOVER- NOR ROSE AND EXPLAINED TO THE CIVIL GOVERNOR WITH MUCH PARDON- BEGGING THAT HE WAS well meaning seconding of Gov. Tin's appeal. We began to see the impor- tant place we now held in his acheme to oust the governc military con: frere. Chinese fashion, it was assumed that since we had taken the trouble to come there was no question that our report would be favorable toward a grant of the desired funds—provided our reception and entertainment were sufficiently grand. I doubt If the agents were even lest we discover governor and his greatly concerned the famine scenes shown to us to be “setups.” They simply felt we needed to see some- thing about which to write home to our committee. Then foreign relief money would pour in, and bring favor to Gov. Liu from both the popu- lace, who would receive a portion, and_ sticky-fingerad mandarins who would disburse it. In plain English, we were to finance the civil governor's campalgn to become provincial dlc tator. We ook the position that our com. mittee's foreign funds (chiefly Amer. ican) should serve molely to offset na tural calamities, and not to save Chinese from the results of their own political and moral shortcomings, &0 long at least as thousands in the coast provinces remalned uncared for Hayes advised his committee to re- duce drastically the Shensi appropri ations and withhold remittances en- tirely until the local adminfstration could be reformed. My press dis- spatches backed his stand. When we told the genial Sengchang (provincial elder) Liu that we were recommending the cutting off of further funds, he merely smiled so- phistically and doubled our entertain- ment. He probably thought we were giving out such statements to cover ourselves, * ok ok ox T the first opportunity we called on Military Gov. Chen. Two rough-looking eoldiers ushered us inte a large, unfurnished, brick-floored hall and withdrew. Soon a ehort man with an unhealed scar over one eva and a lower lip which sagged at one end, came in, his hlack cotton gown flapping unbuttoned below his throat. ‘What careless servants they keep around this place!” I thought to my- self. W1Il the tuchun see us this morn- ing?" T asked him “I can sea vou now,” was the quiet answer. “Please excuse the rudeness of my quarters He {gnored our embarrassment and We wera s00n at ease. So this was the romantfc rascal hero whose exploints, narrow escapes disregard of convention. abandon in the face of enemies ntriguers were the talk of all an ideal example « devility in Chinese bodiment of the ainst ual rly confrere Che bandit he mot as a reguiar army All in makings of Between militar paign activities mum squad) school work suffered on the part of efther pupils. As I said hefore, he spanked with his own hand a hundred and thirty voung men of the s whe elected to join the student m Several ‘davs after our Tuchun Chen, the military the civil governor gave a hanquet our quarters at which the g honor were his confrere i bishop, and the dean of the I missions Chinese character was fllustrated by the outwardly fraternal conduct of the ranking official gentlemen. They howed informally to one another. siped, and patted one another or back. When we were sented at the meal, which, being “forefgn style began with tinned pineapples and agus soup se tuchun appeared with a b simple rell he placed befo The military governor platned to the civil gov pany with much pardon he was on a diet owi above his eve, and had therefore taken the liberty to bring his own special food. Then Civil Gov. L rose to sav it would he a pleasure have his own cooks prepare the sar fresh and hot. in the kitchen. F the military governor could not th of causing such extra bother. It was clear that Chen was going to run no risk of getting ‘“something” in his food. Ultimately and we res revolvers close nd Shen: the ri wracter heen had his early officer hun Che but ain had visit i which hse and ex ind com the two got seated again red the meal. Hands on hehind tuchun'’s chair, stood his bodvgy not a chance for Liu's faithful {ters splll a crumb in his rice bowl! There was a suspicious bulge in Chen's pad ded garment. “Ah,” T thought, “now T know why he affects that carel style of leaving open the bosom of his gown.” It was true, 1 learned Tuchun Chen drew from and accustomed as he w hand in his bosom, he plainly had the advantage of any one drawing from the belt Tuc Chen also refused his host’s wine, ding his wound the ra later, that the breast s to rest his JE put in an afternoon ““Forest of Tablets,” a vast of literary and monumental sot accumulated through centurles Sian. The latest addition, n at near the | “I POKED MY CANNON INTO THE BACK OF THE NEAREST MEMBER OF THE ESCORT. ‘IF ONE OF YOU STEPS ASIDE,; I SAID, ‘TLL SHOOT THROUGH THE WHOLE LINE’” “ 0 P! the well known Nestorian Tablet—not esteemed as a cultural T but recently put inside for saf keeping since a Danish “antiqueer” fell short by only a little in his at gate, is % out paving much attention. I glanced back to find that thers was not a guard in sight! “Something is up here!” I exclaim- NOVEMBER 29, 1925—PART 5. he Verge of And then ed. “I think we had better get this road!” We turned back, leading and my horse following with no need of b oft Hayes idle control while 1 held | | | | stngle [an agent | lowed us into Death in China the cocked gun in both hands ready to_fire at any moving ob_ect We struck a trail leading off te the south. Long after dark us to a remote village there was an inn. Af through the barred door mitted. At dawn thers was a clatter gate. Our escort! Why had cellencles run awa Did we not know t dangerous and thit we wers ad ble? I poked my canr of the neares! one horses,” 1 said file ahead directly to our « steps aside o1 shoot through the w In t fashi, escort as prisone tary post and the commandant d fo bribed our g and arrang “‘crogs-roa laid to road bandits no clues. * xR % T ruined “Black Cit the first symptoms preme dread of the tr Many a man in the made this discovers write his farewell ftated to tell Dysenter: “n To move wo! gravate the cor tlon. Yet it v Without remedies. I 1 three weeks to a hospital hin wi | was hope Hayes dtspatched a m talegraph line with a message to Torr vall. I lay on a brick bed in t ed inn awalting an answer. 1 the third day The world was gradually fndistinet to me visiong of colors and shapes seen them once 1 into unconsciot Erowing R tacal was grea need If I ‘go west body back a1a he live ard gladl me hera on the platn.” My great regret was my thres Jitt boys, I 1 dreamed the when th ur of would toge dventure. At lust, I ems swurg iv 2 ham rigged up b vered ci I know some stages dle and ieava Standard 01 ( trated iilv & man was diser BEaia i Kerosene rms and 1 surs M : racos Airplane Radio, sential in airplanes, se Ma engineers have perfactas NAOII A meters & range appro tempt 1o remova the several-ton mass out of the province. At a banquet tendered by Tuchun Chen at his office he. tween courses we enjoved the luxury of steaming towels latd on hands and face i the pleasura of gourmand izing her supplemented by the enteriainment on the stage above us, where a troupe of actors, in oth men and women, present ter play n us n 10 atte p.m After termelo course Chen's re regular seeds, candied with tea the 1 n plain we found that | gave way again to this time dry and drifted | st. Rough country h people, degenerate from | Long after dusk we passed figures in the grain fields bandits,” whispered our cart fear. They pretended to he hoeing their grain Looking back, we saw them caravan which was following We pressed on until 2 in the &, Halting two hours for food, off by moonlight again. Binjo we made our way down street looking for an inn. full of soldlers, another of and the third, we found, hac taken over by a troupe of traveling sing-song girls. Being 4 to stop somewhere to feed the we chose the last. The brig n and I heard much ssible loot that i con men in peasants o stop a brigands, o of vere going the e got from u pigeons lit on the high the main hail. I let off my shotgun and or 15 fluttering birds and the ladies oked n-mouthed amaze- had never seen a shot by m! curve hott brought | ang t kind of weapon is that?" bandit-gun,” 1 replied, ‘“aspe- liy perfected in America for bring ing down a whole bandit gang at one shot Wa moved off amid the awed whis- pering of the men and the quips of the ladles. * ok ox % T was late in the day when we left Pingliang. I had delaved the party to haggle with a grizzled half-breed Russlan-Tartar over some panther, wolf, and fox skins. Finally I told the carters to go ahead with half the escort My congenital bent toward 1 minute diversion has caused me and those about me much annoyance, but in this instance there is reason to believe that it saved our skins. Hanging on the wall of one of the hants of the fur market I spied an immense handmade Russian rifle, with a belt of soft-nosed cartridges. It was near sixty bore—a young can- non. We carrfed only sport guns' and a tiny six-shooter, and these were in the cart whim urged us to pur- chase the thing, which we did secretly since private trade in firearms was forbidden by drastic penalty. I car- ried it out of town wrapped in-a wolf-skin The remainder of the escort waited for us at the city gate. They were very curious as to what I was carry- ing. Some distance out 1 disclosed the gun. TImmediately they held a whispered council, and one of them wheeled and without explanation dash of m a country don fall The bride was in a Lanvin wedding | gown (full skirt, slim bodice) of silver | cloth and & cloud of tulle, against the background of a church banked with | chrysanthemums | The two bridesmaids—one her own sister, d Miss Madeleine Keitle, the Amer- |fcan opera star—were in fascinating | Georgtan costumes of georgette crepe | with immense silver motifs | qued borders These were | from across the { They have mut | tinents for fame Princ | fashionable girls® | Constantinople | came in Russla The family, Constantinople; vation, they wealth to absolute necessity The Mdivan, aide-de-camp to the Czar for five years; the princess, his wife, fn-walting to the czarina princes However, they were not Russian, but family sitions. thelr land o been talent Having, now, to fight her way in the | world, the most eminent sculptors of France, and drawing lessons from great art- ists. when Col. lives in Philadelphia and is originally from Cincinnati) decided to give the Two Girl Friends, Sculptor and Singer, Exchange Continents as They Gain Fame BY STERLING HEILIG. PARIS, November 18 WO girls, Intimate friends across the world, were brides maids together at the most spectacular wedding seen for years at the American Church Paris The marriage nsual-—Charles Henry national lawyer, to the Princess Nina Mdivani of Georgla, a country imaginary and of immediate importance hecause | itself was quite un- Huberich, inter- | almost 10 us, but very real in fact fts oil fields American girls have married Euro- | pean the other way about, rare | Prof. Unive: Texas and Leland Stanford) has work- | but a union ike this one, is titles in quantity: Huberich (law lecturer in the | ities of Chicago, Wisconsin, | much with the State Department | abroad and at home, | Princess Mdivani, as will appear, Is the greatest family of Georgla— | inated. for the moment. | the Soviets. When the Soviets the status quo ante will reappear. | Princess Roussadans Mdivani and appli | | the two girl friends | world | Iy exchanged con- | Roussadans was at a hoarding school in when the revolution in Russia, escaped to| and, after much pri- arrived in Paris, where reduced from fabulous they ltved family consisted of Prince Indy three voung and princesses. two voung Georglan birth. Being the highest of Georgla, they had these po- | and represented the Czar in SS MADELEIN HAS MADE AT THE NAPLES, ROME AND PARIS, KELTIE. THE AMERICAN A SUCCESS IN EUROPE. OPERA HOUSES OF MADRID, OPERA STAR. WHO HAS ENCAGEMENTS BARCELONA, NICE, SHE he young Princess Roussadans had noted from childhood for her in making images in clay. she took lessons from two of * ok K ok IME passed. She had already done many desirable pieces of work, Clifford B. Harmon (who brated for thelr attractiveness. They are the blondes of the Near Eust When some one sald to Princess Roussadans “They wi kK you are going to America t or a hus [ she answere I'm wed ded my art; but any sultor may have his monument made (she calls it monument), and the one who pays for the best monument will have best consideration ment l& guar; She sai viathan I was born tc Keltte, of Boston At the age of to take piano |had her own piano | conside i & next vear or mn was Keltie's it a part of har! with Mme. Sem er and Summe was made a & Max operas in one weelk Nedda in .a Boheme men"; setta stepped on an oper From this tour from the At ne stage hefor beginning she went! the Pastn ging 1 performances {n § operns she &h, ing season cont a on to singing 200 perforn her the b: mothe rdships er one sometimes S Keltle's con the Royal Royal Opera N e Ope . Vienna and season at t ON A DIET OWING TO THE SCAR ABOVE HIS EYE, AND HAD THEREFORE TAK- EN THE LIBERTY TO BRING HIS OWN SPECIAL FOOD.” Lafavette escadrille trophy. to be e Opera- competed for by France's allles. The colonel told Princess Rous- sadane that the work must pass the critical eye of the governors of the Aero Club de France. She replied that =he would risk it and work out her own idea—on the principle, already decided, that the great ace, Maj. Luf- bery, be used as a prominent feature and the deceased Lafayette fiyers in- scribed on the base. ed back into the city. The others kept hurrying us on. “You must be at the crossroads before dark,” they safd. We knew that we were in for a night journey and did not see that it mattered much whether dark overtook us on the mnear or| far side of the “cross-roads.” About sundown we entered a long, lonely defile. The soldiers who had been riding with us, urging us on, now dropped back. We rode ahead with- D 18 safer und warmer to liva in the loess than on top of it. The caves have the additional advantage that a8 the family expands thera need be no haggling with landlords or buflding guilds With a shovel and barrow & new room or @ sulte can soon be hollowed out of the great soft cliffs Cave towns are excavated in up the hillside, while peasants often found living under the The trophy was accepted—the girl hev il Hiver tiTA Sven the fir g has evidently great talent, and in five | Foee: o0 the iaellince to momen T ! veurs has made herself a well known | hollowed in the friendly losss. These I sculptor. _Since, she has done im- people are in very truth, “Children of portant pleces—the two attructing the Clay.” most attention being the prince con-| Our first experience in these caves I sort of the Queen of Holland, and a was at the refreshment rooms by the remakable conception called “The Yel low Peril” bought by the Royal Museum at Madrid Other work stopped when Col. Tar- mon ordered a second and different : 3 . . £ trophy. The Vieilles Tiges and the Preinliy i 3 . | Aern Club de France were g0 pleased g | think With that of the Lafayvette escadrille | 4 oLk~ nothini that the voung princess was com ; i {done. F mier sl ypechonsl atitac. . missioned to mul;e lthla other for the : o wL““”,’?‘-‘ can help these major qualities Vieflles Tiges of Italy, to be competed 0 3 for in thet country. P | The young Georgian princers The Vieilles Tiges may need expla- fji=eseianache Yolug Anpera nation. It means “Old Roots. To ‘tXh:"C w ”)Pr‘hiinl‘;vi Alz ].n }:?, helong to “The Old Roots” one must o ® have been an airplane pllot before h'(v“n’f‘ Hll' ’»” (l,l!’:(kr.a"‘flb— Pr August 2, 1914, the date when the war |l B e A o ones RueE s [ cess Rouseadans salled to seulpt Secre. not only for France but for Italy. | continuatly, fat tas, at the races, at His pliotiicense s No. §; dated August | Ginners and st gatherings m promt The trophles made Princess Rous. IS 1ot studioa. v sadans better known than all her other IR v rora kol et munt ofeport Work. She felt that if she could i ! B e Ay o gzxs:o to America, her fame would young girls would enjoy; but, it is sad A Boston family, friends of hers in i an RN ae e Georgla, sent for her to come to Bos. . : ton, where they had orders for her to . % 5 execute. Among.these are the Crane Naughty Again. family | of | Boston. ex-Secretary TatHerAy Tt 1 Hughes, Presacent Coolldge and others | oy LAFAYETTE ESQUADRILLE TROPHY OF THE AERQ CLUB | nver s you in heaven. ‘Now, the young girls of Georgls, DE FRANCE, IN THE STUDIO OF ITS CREATOR, PRINCESS Son—Whatcha been doln’ new, . ger centuries past, have been celp ROUSSADANS, pop? ) ' Miss Keltia's person | tracti has given B the el at- eness atio her laat great wera presant sevan the Queen, al les galore, and Romar society in general Was Tiot present filled several boxes. Miss was requested to for ar audience v X and was recelved with courtesy and con ation, They talked for nearly an hour, whila* ministers waited put through fm- open princesses, American M tlers are ssolint Tin but at one time nist: and the ersation was was con- <t je Keltle was accompar I's career to ha ing G [ =on afraid