Evening Star Newspaper, October 23, 1924, Page 41

< WOMAN'S PAGE. Washingt BY LOUISE ROCHON HOOVER. HOPPING in Washington has In- deed become a delight since thy stores offer such a smart sele tion of importations as well as the best of domestic apparel There was a time when the fashion. able woman found it necessary to make shopping trips to New York, but nowadays she finds all that her heart desires in her own city. This Fall, particularly, have the Shops displayed the newest Parisian Influencos almost as soon as they are 2hown in the Rue de la Paix. So many of the models were found worthy of illustratign on_this page that the difficulty was to choose from the wealth of material offered Fashion has gone mad over the en- Semble costum We find it not only PATOU MODEL OF BANZAI BROWN BENGALINE. in sport and formal model winding its way into One of the shops is showing a three- picce affalr in a neglize which s charming. It consists of pajamas of Chinese blue crepe de chine, bordered nd sashed in black crepe-back satin, and a matehing brealfast coat of the black satin, banded 1n the blue silk, wadded The ensemble idex is even carried out in jewelry, and no one would think of wearing necklaces, bracelets or ecarrings that did not distinctly harmonize with each other and with the costume which they adorn. Illustrated is one of the most strik- ing exponents of the ensemble mode. Tt is a distinguished Importation from Molyneus of Paris and xecuted in & combination of crepe materials. The dress is of a handsome crinkled and stitched printed silk, woven especial- but even 1y for this model in shades of cream, | ENSEMBLE COSTUME IM. PORTED FROM MOLYNEAUX. Black and henna. Of black wool crepe, the coat is bullt on straight lines, with a straight cape attached to the back, and luxurious collar and cuffs of fox. But the most Intriguing detall of all is tho crepe de chine lin- ing, the upper part of which is in rose color, the lower in apple green, with a band of the printed silk to de- fine the two. In the sports type there is a dash- ing model from Patou.in-a soft sand- colored wool. The dress is tleeveless, and the coat, seven-eights in length, _is banded In wool of & deeper shade fof tan, with a scarf to match. There are also domestic models, in the lovely new Autumn shades, fur- trimmed or with braiding. Many of the coat dresses Which are #0 liked this season, are made to give the appearance of a three-plece sult. A very handsome imported model is especially of this type. The materlal used is a deep green twill, the ribs of which are at varying widths to stamp {ts newness. It is banded in zray squirrel at the cuffs and rever, and about the skirt to give the line Which the coat would have. It is a very practical dress, being appropri- 2te {ndoors or out. Simplicity is the keynote of another ! coat dress in imported tan wool Straight of line and unbelted, it is trimmed only In & row of buttons rastening all the way down the front. Tallored severcly in masculine style, 4t may be worn with a narrow roiled collar to give the feminine touch at the throat. Attractive cost dresses are ale® shown in the Benguline variety of boudoir. | silks, with revers of Irish lace, or with touches of color in the trimming. For the “watch-your-weight” lad dresses have been designed which are not only cut In large sizes, but have fullness introduced In the desirable places to lessen breadth and give long lines. Such a model is to be had in twill coat dress, closing with a naterial sash at the side, and with a flattering rever faced in pen- ny bronze crepe de chine. It has bands of striped silk braid down the front and on the cuffs and there is a little fullness at the hips. With such models from which to choose, the slightly overwelght matron should find no difficulty in looking as slen- der and smart as her 18-year-old daughter. There is such an art in de- signing clothes to enhance magnifi- cent dignity, and three or four of our best shops make a specialty of cater- ing to this type. It is no longer neceseary to try to lace yourself tnto a dress two sizes too small or to &0 to the bother and uncertainty of having them made because you “sim- ply can’t find your size.” Hats have never been smarter! The favored shapes are the small square crowned, turned-up-brim types, to be worn with taflored clothes and the crushed velvet shape: for more formal occasions. Black felt is very good and extremely practical, as it will harmonize with innumerable costumes. A charming hat of this sort is sketched. The square crown is of black felt, and the brim, turned up becomingly In | front, Is faced with black satin. band of black satin ribbon surrounds {the crown and ends in a bow at the back. { A hat of similar shape is developed {of tan velvet with a pleated band of | tan georgette about the crown, end- ing in loops at the side. An ornament of metal Is placed to the left of the front, beautifully finishing this very smart model. The Venetlan type of hat, flaring oft the face in front, is again in great favor. This is easlly understood, as no more universally becoming shape has ever been designed for dress wear. There is a lovely one In an F street shop made of velvet in two soft shades of gray. The illustration shows its becomingly crushed lines and fts distinctive ornament of shell color. For evening there are more frivo- lous hats composed of satins, bro- cades or metal cloths. A chic little model of black satin has a flat, turned-up front braided in silver and a black lace veil drooping in piquant fashion about the face and ending in a cascade at the right side. A gold cloth turban in basket weave effect is smart with its feather fancy adroltly placed at the side. Beaver hats in_tailored styles are much favored. Besides the correct INDISP] | sailors, elegant afternoon models are being shown. One of them is trimmed in an Imposing feather ornament di- rectly in front and is turned up at just the right angle at the side. | Velour hats for sports wear may | be had in becoming shades of tan, | some with youthfully wide brims and | an appearance of studied carelessness | which is most fashionable. A smartly different littie black felt | turns up in back and down In front land has the oddest possible ornament | —a_pair of silvered turkey claws! | The evening mode is very gorgeous. | Tt offers freest play to the imagi- | nation of the designer and resuits in gowns of many different types, from | girlish bouffant lines to stately crea- | tlons of metal cloths. Clouds of peach-colored tulle float about the delectable dancing frock in the sketch. Bulilt over peach satin, the shoulders gleam through a bertha. | of heavy sllver lace, and mink fur | edges both dress and scarf. The tulle skirt veveals a touch of blue beneath and ends in a huge diaphan- ous bow at the side. It Is an importa- tion, of course. Splendidly regal in its heavy gold filet lace, another dinner gown chal- lenges attentlon. It is designed on tunic lines, bordered with fur, and belted with a plaited cord of gold. In keeping with the shimmering rich- ness of the gown is its midnight blue agate buckle, inlald in rhinestones. A _simpler 'dance frock of cherry colored crepe back satin is offered in one of the speclalty shops. In straight lines, the skirt is cut in three tlers, which are banded with the dull side of the materfal and caught at the side with two large roses. A gown of shining silver lace ex- Ploits the new circular flare by means of godets inserted about the skirt. It is a glittering example of the eve- ning mode, but without that gaudi- ness which offends good taste. Only the master designer could have creat- ed a model of such simplicity and style. The gown is entirely of the silver lace with clusters of corn- flower biue and yellow flowers at the right shoulder ‘and left hip. The | stems of the flowers, In silver, trail down the side as far as the hem. The most important rival of metal jcloth for evening gowns this season is velvet. Being an exquisitely sup- | ple material, it lends itself to many uses and is unsurpassed for formal | dinner gowns. Relying on beauty | of material for striking effects, the velvet models which the shops are showing are extremely simple In de- slgn. There is one charming model in a shade of mauve velvet which is gathered in at the right side by a design of rhinestone beading. Another Is of taupe color, beaded all over in a conventional design, its straight lines ended in a wide band of fur at the hem. When a gown is not of velvet, it is usually of a silk material woven with a velvet design. A gleaming white satin creation has a velvet de- slgn of bands of conventional roses. Its tunic is cut in longer points at the sides and Is fringed in lovely old blue beads. Following the velvet design just above the fringe, pale Al tailored SABLE ADDITIONS TO THE SMART THE EVENING STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, THURSDAY, OCTOBER COAT DRESS! ros> and blue beads are used with artistic cleverness. A large blue flower and one in magenta color carry out the happy color combina- tion. A rich material has been used in the creation of a shimmering gown for evening. On a foundation of georgette crepe, gold thread and rose velvet brocade form an intricats pat- tern, and a broad band of chinchilla finishes the hem. The side panels are of delicate gold lace. Beaded evening dresses never seem to lose their popularity. They have a clinging beauty which outlives passing fads and an air of formality that makes one feel well dressed on all occasions. The straight-lined models in georgette, elaborately bead- ed, are being shown again this year, their newness, however, apparent in originality of beaded motif or in the color used. Petal pink Is equisite in these frocks. It is especlally lovely in a model of jumper design, adorned with a single huge rose. All these things are very absorbing, but, of course, there are many of us who cannot afford such splendor and SEMBLE. who are interested in a less conspicu- ous dinner dress, one that can be worn many times and that will be In good taste for the informal party and smaller dance. For such occaslons there {8 a chic and practical dress of henna georgette, with a checker- board design in black cut velvet and hip line. A band of fur and simple rhinestone ornament finish the cos- tume. A biue chenille design on henna | eorgette makes a smart and very | inexpensive frock. It is of the che- mise type and {s banded In gray mou- flon fur. Evening wraps! They suggest romance, Inspiring words! moonlight, FEATURING THE a gathered tunic following the blas | INGLE REVERE COLLAR. had in such a wealth of handsome embroidered designs on silks of black, white or colors,, and when worn with a jeweled comb the effect {s striking. A rose georgette scart is generous- 1y bordered in rose and white ostrich and makes au intriguing foll for a white evening gown, Bengaline {s a much favored silk this season. So many years have elapsed since grandmothers Sunday dress was made of it, that many have forgotten all about it and hall it as a newcomer in the list of mi However, history repeats it 50 does bengaline, and here we have it in all manner of the smartest trocks for afternoon as well as strest wear. Tho frock sketched fs of Banzal brown, heavily ribbed bengaline, and was imported from Patou by a local hop. Agaln the circular flare {s sed, accented by godets of the shiny side 'of the material. A long fringed scarf finishes the neck line and legions of tiny buttons follow the under-arm seam. Long, tight sleaves, ending in wide cuffs, are new and smart. Among the wealth of imported aft- erncon dresses {s a black creps de chine model by a designer of world- wide fame. The V neck ends in a jabot of vermillon sflk which ex- tends to the very hem. A black satin dress Is cut close around the neck and {s bordered in fur. Just above the fur a blook da- sign in gold enriches Its smartness and is repeated on the long, snug | sleeves. Flaring cuffs are a feature and are very desirable, since they make hands appear smaller. Many satin frocks are made with tunics, short sleeves and fur trim- ming. An attractive ons in brown {s very youthful and exceedingly new with its tunic, M front alone, cut In apron shape, the sides shorter than the front and slightly circular. Bands of dyed fitch outline the panel of passementerie down the center of the blouso and edge the tiny sleeves. The {dea of using a printed silk in bands to decorate a black silk frock iy Ingeniously used in a tunic dress from o French designer. An extended neckband of the print is a becoming feature. This is a season of new materlals and new colors. One often wonders at the Ingenuity of the designers, who. vear after vear are called upon to produce different shades and un- usual weaves and who never fail in their mission. Silks of a ralsed design and remarkably soft texture are among the new features. A lovely model In petal pink is developed in this and flounced in fine silver lace resembling the frost on & window pane. Every one is buying & Winter coat just] FUR-TRIMMED COATS OF SUEDE CLOTH. charming memories. And such glori- ous ones are waiting to accompany you to innumerable balls, theaters, etc. Can you picture anything more completely fascinating than & wrap of salmon pink panne velvet, beaded in steel and amber and collgred with rich dark fur? The lady in the cen- ter sketch is wearing it and it is for sale in an F street shop. Ermine is the fur of kings and naturally the king of furs. It fash- lons an evening cape of truly regal splendor, whose voluminous collar of white fox makes a charming frame for a youthful face. If you have resisted the lure of bobbed hair and are blessed with dark, lustrous tresses, by all means wear a Spanish shawl. They may be SMART HATS IN FELT AND VELVET., DY now. Even if there is a perfeotly good one tucked away since last Winter in the cedar chest, one finds it hard to resist the new ones which the shops So temptingly display. From fur coats to cloth and sports models the variety seems inexhaust- ible, and every taste should find satis- faction without much seeking. Sketohed is a luxurious coat of suede cloth in a shade to match its beaver trimming, which may face the coldest wintry biast undisturbed. Its entire front panel is of beaver, as are its full, gathered cuffs. An odd clos- ing at the neck reveals the trimming of corded brald, which extends also round the lining. It is very warm and light, and, wrapped smartly about, gives a very dashing appear- ance. The other sketch is bf a handsome coat of beige suede cloth, amply trim- med in beige kit fox. It has a very unusual trimming of partly detached panels of the material on one side, edged with matching silk brald. Coats this season have a delightful way of being as Interesting within as with- out, and this particular one is no ex- ception to the rule. It is richly lined with two tones of heavy crepe de chine, the wide band of the lighter shade being bordered with gold braid. A very beautiful coat {s developed of a soft woolen imported material in a new shade of gray, Its fur trim- ming is chinchllla and extends down | the entire front of the coat. Many smart models there are, too, in inexpensive coata. Deep pile fab- Tios are used in these and imitation furs, which, however, are dyed in ' such becoming shades that they are often just as pleasing as the mor highly priced coats. A very good one, from one of the G street shops, is of navy blue bolivia, trimmed in plati- num-dyed mouflon fur, and is very reasonably priced. Plaid {s the thing in sports coat New weaves and color combinations have never before existed in such profusion. Lovely autumn shades, suggestive of the follage one sees along the countryside just now, some brilliantly used” against a neutral background are the most charming in effect. Topped with fur of har monizing shade, these coats are ideal for daytime wea ‘This blending of color In fur and fabric is a distinctly new note and & very becoming one. The soft grays and wood browns, when carried out in the dyeing of fu:, are extremely flattering to most complexions. A light beige is much used in coloring fur and trims coats in the various shades of tan most successfully. The all-fur coat ls not seen quite 80 much as last season, since the fur trimmings on the cloth coats have assumed such voluminous propor- 23, 1924.° on Shops Display Striking Fall Fashions The large envelope purse {s an im- portant item in the Winter mode. It is of leather, often in vivid shades to bring a contrasting dash of color, or may also be in black or beige. A flawies correct beige suede model ity. Green sueds 1s the basts for another exceptional purse. There is an orna- ment, of course, this time of onyx and rhinestones. smart little vanity bag for evening. A checkered effect is achieved with Thinestones down each side and the clasp and chain are of gold. Just about the most charming nov- elty of the season is the tinting of pearls In pastel shades. They are mede into choker necklaces of large pearls of the same siza and may be had in the delicate shades of evening gowns, peach, pale rose, mauve, gray and so on, Their luster is more soft- ly glamourous than ordinary pearls and they add distinct beauty to a shapely neck| Black pearls are fash- fonable in choker lengths as are also tions. But, of course, there is still an enormous selection of coats in rich furs for those who insist that nothing but a fur coat will protect them in Winter. Two different furs are combined in the loveliest of these, the lighter fur In intricately cut bor- ders or panels as well as for the collars and cuffs. EVENING WRAP OF SALMON PANNE VELVET AND GOWN IN PEACH SHADES OF There is a splendid model of seal, collared and cuffed in kolinsky dyed squirrel, with a d border of the squirrel around the bottom, cut to form & point up the front. Short fur coats are still much In vogue because of their {ncomparably youthful allure. One of the most favored furs of th winter mode !s chinchilla. Del fully soft In texture as well as being extremely becoming, it adorns many of the better coats with great effect. A deep garnet shade is much used in coats. Combined with fur of a {light gray it is very good. So many | new colors have been devised that no | one should havs diffculty in finding ons to suit her Individual type. There are all the gradations from sand to brown, and too many henna shades to keep track of, beside the ever- popular navy blues and grays. Accessories are assuming a role of | the utmost importance in the mode for Winter. There are accessories for every mood and moment, to say nothing of every different costume. Morning, noon and night we change jories to suit each soclal and the shops supply us Sreat varfety from which to choose. Starting out for a brisk walk in the morning, the well dressed woman wears a woolen scarf to match her frock bordered In bands of wool of contrasting shades. Th: are plenty of these in all the wan colors, some also with panels of plald mate- rial woven {n. Her shoes are low-heeled and of tan calf, unstrapped but with tiny flat bows for chic. The only jewelry she wears is an inconspicuous strand of shell colored choker beads. For afternoon she has a wide cholcs of lovely necklaces. A very modish one has been sketched. It follows the fashion of green and white In jewelry in a long strand of pearls interspersed with green beads of the same size. Sparkling amber beads are very pop lar because of the dainty finishing touch which they add to the many tan combinations of frocks. Of gloves there are inexhaustible varieties. The smartest ones are of the gauntlet shape, with short cuffs gathered n every conceivable they are decorated In contrasting colors to carry out the different color schem of one's costume. In brown glace kid, one design has triple cuffs al- ternately of tan, of brown and agmn of ta: Eyelet perforations add fur- ther detall to the cuffs. The same design may be had in combinations of black and white, brown and white, or black and gray. Very smart, indeed, are the dark brown gloves with & band of gold braid around the cuffs. Turned-back cuffs in tan are the Interest!: feature of & pair of light brown suede gauntlets. The fashion's unusual lining is car- ried out in the gloves sketched. They are of white kid, the cuffs, when turned back, revealing a striking de- sign of broidery in Persian colors. The Parisienné wears these In com- bination with a tiny vanity bag em- broidered to match the interior of her cuffs. Time was when an umbrella was a mere prosalc thing used ta protect one from untimely showers. Not so the smart, stubby paraplules of to- day. They are carried in rain or fair weather, as well, simply because they have become the dainty acces- sory which livens a walking costume. The more abbreviated the better, they yet afford an amasing area of pro- tection when the emergency arises. ‘The styles sponsored by the Prince of Wales have been widely copied, but never more effectively than in the reproduction of his favorite cane handle In a saucy little umbrella, It is aptly named “the Prince of Wale: and suggests all of this young man' gallant style in its yellow crool handle. In navy blue or brown heavy silk, it {s bordered in satin bands and combines practical advantages with an_exc of style. More formal in appearance are the handsome umbrellas with hand-paint- ed amelite handles. In purple and garnet as well as the standard shad their handles are decorated in har- monizsing colors and are especially smart when they also match one’s bag and glove: There {s a smart modlel vlm.hu’hnldod thong of black and white leather and Anoth‘u constructed on a 16-rib brass frame, of the Japanese shape when opened. It is of “~ - ‘ight welght considering Its stur@iness _ /. weum gold or steel necklaces. A simple frock can be transformed into a very distinguished c by the tasteful use of charming jew- eiry, the perfection of detall being of " even greater Importance than elaborateness of gown. Very useful In achleving smart effects are the necklaces made up of several strands is sketched. The ornament of colored stones is its one concesslon to frivol- Onyx is again used in a delightfully SATIN AND TULLE. of pearls of different lengths, at- tached to a single jeweled clasp. They may be had in groups of three, four or five strands, and are exquisite on the background of & black silk frock. Another strand wrapped several times about the wrist perfects the ensemble. If you have a string of pearls some- where at home, give it this season’s dainty touch by changing its old clasp to one of the new ones of a single large colored stone. Ruby,| sapphire, emerald and amethyst imi- tations are among those offered. They are arranged to accommodate several strands of pearls. Made to be worn closely around the neck in dog collar fashion {s an ex- quisite .necklace of four rows of | pearls, caught in four places by huga imitation emeralds. Such a necklace hides many defects and may be worn to great advantage on the neck which | is a little thin. It Is the older woman's necklace par excellence. Large, octagonally shaped emeralds, a tiny pearl between each, form & listening bracelet of rare beauty. Imagine this blending its beauty with that of an emerald-studded comb and a white velvet evening gown, Pumps for evening are in order. { Whether they be of metal cloth or of satin to match one's gown, they are ever so much smarter than Intricate- 1y strapped or cut-out models. Rhine- stone buckles of handsome design are made for these and should, of course, be added. One of the shops has for sale some of the most ravishing French stock- ings. They are quite expensive but Well worth their price. Of silk drop stitch In the most cobwebby welght, they are tinted In the powder shades to _resemble flesh color. This is the season to be out of doors. All the sports have thelr strongest appeal in the Fall, and to be properly garbed for the occasion is infinitely necessary. An attractive sweater simply cannot be dispensed with. There are fleecy woolen alip- ons, with V-cut necks in white or colors, banded in contrasting shades at the bottom. The blouses and ties to be worn with them are very trim. Worthy of mention Is a necktle of plaid silk, using rose, old blue and white as its color scheme. The bridle path, above all, tempts us from indoors this season, and to be “regulation” in every detail of her riding costume is the ambition of every equestrienne. The Grand Can- yon Path in Rock Creek is never more enchanting than when one is absolutely sure of the Impeccability of one's riding habit. One of the shops makes a specialty of attending to every detall and seeing to it that one is properly turned out to take the jumps. They are showing a meticu- louely tailored habit of heather brown homespun with whipcord breeches. Stout leather boots are worn with it and a fascinating “Darby.” Of course, it you cannot wear a severe hat, there are soft felts that fit well about the head. Crops, ties, and all the acces- sories are given attention. = More than one-third of the 500,000 employes of Federal, State and local govern ts are women. In Wash- ington alone, it Is said, they fill half of the 70,000 Federal jobs. BAKING POWDER “Onyx Pointex” Silk Hosiery —remarkable values in these flawless stockings “Onyx Pointex” pure silk, with lisle tops and soles. Style 255—Service weight . + . . . g9 o Style 355—"Sheresilk”, chiffon weight . 1 *Onyx Pointex” all silk Style 350—Service weight . + o . 4 gy g Style 450—"‘Sheresilk”, chiffon weight . 2 At [eading stores “Onyx”@ Hosiery - Made to Measure FACTORY PRICES Let Us Estimate Let Us Estimate 830 13th St. N.W. I Phone Main 4874 | W. STOKES SAMMONS, Proprietor. 0000000000000 00¢ f ot Tns 1s the family por- trait of one of Mrs. Busy House Wife’s best friends—the plump blue- and-yellow can of the original ready-to-fry cod fish cakes—made of famous Gorton’s Cod lfou_iust can’t help but like it more and more. Orange Pekoe Tea Makes good tea a certainty way is th easier and better way to wash dishes COLGATE'S FAB FAB box fronts have coupon value. Combine them with coupons cut from Octagon Soap Products for useful and beautiful premiums, at 514 G Street