Evening Star Newspaper, July 1, 1923, Page 77

[ * 4 4\ practically controls the banking in- BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. ACING may not be what once it was in this country end a vaster number of Amer- fcans witness - the ‘summer races in’ France and England than hers, but when New York turns out in the full and costly panoply of spart clothes for its Long Island { events, there is much to see, much to copy, much to inspire us in the choice of the things we need for hot ‘weather. Trv 2s the officlals will, there is not the excjtement in our races that hangs over the British affairs or the flelds of Longchamps and Auteull. But there are good clothes and they { Point the: path. for the rest of the country during the season. Parls points the ppath for the future, which is far more important for the pro- fessional buyers than for what the trade papers call “the consumer.” What we -want to know is the method of dresing for the present. The New York races settle that prob- ¥ lem. The women who are there may have bought their clothes in Paris in May, but there Was no necesaity for it. They can be bought here six ‘weeks after they appear in France, it one knows where to look. It is not our buyers who are slow to pro- mote a new French Fashion; it is the public. Every woman likes to feel that her clothes were inspired by Paris. Tt's that two-century-old truth which inspires the tremendous buying in Paris that once was limited to the few, but nearly all women prefer the American manipulation of the French 1deas. This fecling has grown pro- digiously in the last three years, because we realize that our physical personality is so markedly different from that of French women that thelir cutters and fitters rarely satisfy us. The idea s good. The result is & fallure. « * k¥ % HEN we go to England for sport clothes, however, we have better results, and as France takes her in- spiration for these costumes from London, the hordes of American ‘tourlsts have begun to wait until they reach England to get the bulk of things that we wear during more than half the. year in this country. “London, my dear,” Is the answer to an admiring question from an observer as often as “Parls, my dear.” Which is a change, you must admit. New York is a conglomeration of English and French styles. We are the distributors of the inspiration of N the world in clothes; we are the great adapters. In that lles our genlus. What women wear at the New York: races is the final result of what all the buyers have seen at all the places. Most of the fashions follow on the Palm Beach path, but there Is more stability in’the clothes, not so much white and cream, nor | one-plece frocks, nor flat-heéled sport shoes. There is something for those of us who do not live our hot weather months In the splendor of country houses to put our teeth in; something that serves us for the clty | BEIGE EMBROIDERY. | of travel I saw a few suits of thin alpaca | tor, but none over here. There were | smart jackets and skirts of this old- fashioned material at the American races. in Paris last summer worn by women | the hips was who were traveling by train or mo- | sagged at sides and back. | elty. One of these had a short coat | defles dust. JACKET SUIT OF BEIGE SILK JERSEY, ITS EDGES BOUND WITH | THE SAME MATERIAL IN A DARKER IS OF THE JERSEY, THE BLOUSE OF WHITE CREPE WITH ADE. THE MUFFLER | | streets, the vacation days, the hours | cut in two parts, reminiscent of the | overpopular separate jacket with the tight hip band, in that the part over Snug, the upper part Instead of a button at the waistline there was a broad ribbon tie, which is a nov- The color was gun metal, which The blouse was white , colors. “WASHINGTON, D. organdie, g touch of.mere rrlvoll!m espectally. . it had pleated frills at neck and wrists, which every woman | knows gives trouble every moment of their existence. Other blouses worn with alpaca sults were of printed crepe of silk | or embroidered cream crepe de chine. Green blouses running the gamut of new tones were the best in the solid The new mustard is difficult to weal. o also is the tone known 4s arsenic or verdigris, but that does not keep them from being ever present. They are too smart, too unusual to be avohled by those who delight in whatever departs from the commonplace. x ok ok % HE green” blouse s definitely established. It may be plain or printed. That's a matter of per- sonal choice. It can be worn with gun metal suits, especially if they are made of alpaca. Also it 1s worn with separate skirts in white, cream, | blege, and black. There s a curious fashion of wearing black skirts in crepe de chine in the coun- try as an offset to the ubiquitous white ones, and there s another fash- fon for black blouses embroidered in white figures. Colored ones are sub- stituted If the design Is close set and confined \within narrow lines. What | 18 now known as Pekin blue is used for this colored embrotdery on blouses of supple crepe de chine. The bue is not repeated in the skirt, | however, which is white more often | than not Iy PERSONAL HEALTH ‘There are as many white and cream | blouses worn as in the era of the wash muslin shirt waist. No matter what the skirt, the blouse is crepe in its various manifestations, with or without* embroidery. 1If there must be a circle of ornamentation, it is at the waistline in front. One of the most conspicuous sport costumes worn at the races was made up from a pleated white wool crepe ! skirt, a flatly tallored blouse and a sleeveless sweater which extended over the hips and was gently belted. It fastened at the side with large buttons of gcolored bone or the ma- terial, it way cut into a deep V at the neck and was violently plaided. Some- times the plald was in black against a white ground or in green against cream, but.when it took on a colored foundation, such as gray or mauve or Chinese’ green, the skirt matched that color. France is trying out the sleeveless coat in the' Hindu shape, which Is long and formal in effect; also as a short jacket worn over a blouse of brightly printed crepe or cotton In the Slavic manner. Some new sleeves in printed fabrics are so voluminous that it would be awkward to attempt & coat over them. It is belleved that th's fashion will prevail in the autumn. Maybe s0. France {s giving much at- tention to it. Our buyers may bring it home, and then the public decides. The sleevelesy sweater is the fore- runner of this later fashion. It has no opposition. successful. So it is at the Ne SERVICE BY WILLIAM BRADY, M. D., Noted Physician and Author. Feed the Bambino Oats. A baby who is regular can get along very well without giving a { thought to the calories in his food. | He needn't worry a bit about the per- | | centage of protein or fat if only the | folks are not stingy in preparing his | food. Even worry about the vitamins | | should not keep him awake nights. \ The formula‘for preparing or modi- fying milk for a baby a month or | two old was given as follows: Top | miik, 6 ounces; milk sugar, 1 ounce; | boiled water, 14 ounce | { Top milk is the upper third care- | | fully removed from the jar or bottle after the cream has risen, with a | milk dipper which enters the top of | a milk bottle. For a frail or poorly developed or badly nourished infant one ounce n!y lime water may be added to the formula, to oppose or prevent the | curdling of the milk in too large or | curds during digestion. | For an Infant more than a month old, |nstead of lime water it is well | to use a cereal water for that pur- | pose. Either barley water or oat- | meal water is good, replacing all the | boiled water in the formula or half of it. Lime water may be made by plae- | ing a heaping teaspoonful of slaked | | lime In a quart bottle of botled water, | shaking this well for two or three ! too dense times in the hour, then letting the lime settle to the bottom. After the liquid has stood for twenty-four hours the upper clear part is lime water ready for use. Barley water is made by blending a tublespoonful of barley flour with a few spoonfuls of cold water, then adding a pint of bolling water con- taining two or three wee gralns of salt. Cook for half an hour in a double boller, and strain. Enough water to bring the whole up to a pint again is added. Oatmeal water is made in the same way, using rolled oats or any of the ordinary oatmeals. Oatmeal water Is probably the pref- | erable cereal | milk when a tendency toward con- stipation is to be opposed. a tendency toward diarrhea, At Palm Beach it was | v York water for ‘modifying | Barley | | water is probably better if there is | The use of these cereal waters or | later of thin cereal gruels aids the digestion of the milk curd. Beside: the carbohydrate of the cereals them- selves {8 nutriment. 0, JULY 1, 1923—PART 5. How the Smart Folk of New York Dress f / BLACK CREPE DE CHINE GOWN WO IT SHOWS THE T! IDE, AND FINISHED THERE WITH A BOW OF THE NECK IS FINISHED WITH THE SUMMER SUB- STITUTE FOR THE DEAUVILLE HANDKERCHIEF. YORK RACE! UP AT ONE RIBBON. |races and along the countryside wher- When the baby has proved himself | capable of getting away with trial formula suggested, the amount | ot the top milk in the formula may increased by an ounce or two | weeks, of course|sling this season, as it did in colonial | crevices of clothes. 20 | days, when Chinese and East Indian | be about every two keeping the whole nilxture at ounces. the | ever sports are in progress. % % N HE fashion for silk is well es- tablished here by our imitation of the orientals. It has the world in fts | fabrics and furniture were made N RECE! LY AT THE NEW | REE-TI ED SKIRT LIFTED | | fashionable by the cargoes of our| sailing ships. The ladies of this day do not keep their. silk frock, how- {‘ever, for gala days, church included. Every day is for silk. This summer | the fabric has reached into all the It is built into loose coats with a | broadly printed design, especially { standard trick of | when | ing of the inner und outer material. or the Country Races £o0d in black and white, to take the place of the usual sport topcoat. If it needs added warmth, it gets it through interlining. Its lack of weight makes it entirely comfortable for summer. That is where it has superfority over the wraps we have worn. These Chinese jackets have taken the place of capes and of the bright leather jackets worn last summer on rainy days at pleasure places of high fashlon. They are economical, in that they will last into the autumn, well into it, if we have our Indtan summer and the much-discussed fice age does not slip down on us.unex- pectedly. About 20,000 years Is its reckoned time to turn our land Into ice caps, so, if it does come, and if it takes its usual time about it, ihere is no reason to avold buying a print- ed silk Chinese coat for the next six months. By the way, a touch from Paris that delights most women s the narrow ribbon in gay figures run inside the edge where the lining meets the out- er fabric. Cheruit, of Paris, puts a black ribbon with colored fans riot- ing over the surface. If one can't get something Chinese, anything vi- vacious will do. Just floral ribbon is not desirable. It should be about & half inch wide. This idea can be car- ried out on any of the open jackets of the season. It can be used as a the sewing room ver one wants to hide the join- There was enough jersey, silk and wool worn at the races to prove that this, fabric has no idea of giving in to wool crepe or alpaca. It appeared in frocks and suits, the latter having a youthful air that should put the thickset woman on her guard. The jackets were hip-length, open in front, high at neck with added muf- fler of the material and long sleeve, slightly wider at wrist than armhole. Between the front edges one got a slimpse of the blouse which extended over the hips. Both belge and green were domi- nant colors In these silk jersey suits | and no matter what the color, a dark- | er shade of it bound the edges. ‘There is no limit to the use of bind- ing. It appears on suits In France and America, be the fabric what it may. Rarely is the same tone used. Something lighter or darker s sought. Ribbon or braid will do if one doesn't want the fatigue or ex- pense of using treacherous fabric. Silk jersey is too difficult to handle in this capacity, so the substitutes for | braid are satin and silk. ¥ Ok K ¥ LTHOUGH satin has been revived for frocks and wraps it is not seen on Smart women in sport array. Other materials have taken the place | of wash satin in a large measure. The silk jersey frocks have adopted far more of the orlental effect than the suits, which is well. Rust and Chinese blue appear in big borders on deep beige gowns worn with immense straw hats like the cornfield kind of the south. Very English-looking things were worn, also, at the races, in Wool jer- sey in a small check or stripe design, especially ‘in delft blue and white. ‘German Leaders Give Views About Existing Financial Conditions BY FRANK G. CARPENTER. Berlin. N this letter I shall let the Ger- mans speak for themselves. Dur- ing the last few months,I hl\e‘ had confidential chats with the | leading officlals and financiers who | are running the republic. Most of the conversations have bLeen heart-to. heart talks, and for this reason am not able to give the names of the | talkers. One of the men, for instance, | terests, another is the manager of the Tnfon of German Industries, and | others are closely connected with the | reichstag and the government. I begin with President Ebert, whom I met In his palace facing Wilhelm- strasse, the Downing street of Ber- lin. The president of the German republic never gives interviews and | my audience was arranged with the understanding that nothing Mr. Ebert sald could be quoted. He talked freely, and at the close of the conver. satlon I begeed him to make an ex- ception to his custom and, through me, send a few words to the American people giving his views as to what; we might do to better the situation in Turope, and especially in Germany. | The answer as revised by his excel- lency was as follows: “In view of the close economical inter-dependency of the whole civil- ized world it {8 evident that the des- tinfes of America arc Intimately connected ‘with those of Europe. I feel that America is vitally concerned in European affairs, and that she can, it she will, do much to better present conditions. She can ‘do much for Germany by taking an active part in solving the pressing problems of the world, and by giving her counsel and assistance, as far as she feels it to her own interest and that of the « world.” These words of President Ebert are & moderate expression of the feeling oxhibited {n our-conversation. His excellency 1s a forcible talker and | during the Interview I was impressed with his live, active mentality ana his great strength of character. teminds one of Theodore Roosevelt, whom he greatly resembles. He throws out. his jaw ‘as his conversa- tion. grows earnest, and now and then has a smile that recalls that of Roosevelt when he uttered “De- lighted! ' Mr. Ebert has the same stout figure and medium helght of our former President. His face is shaped like that of Roosevelt, with a broad but not overhigh forehead. His head is large and it Is firmly set on a short neck and broad sturdy shoulders, He is noted for his.comman, sense, and he looks at things from much the same angle as the .hero of the big stick when he was In the White House. Mr. Ebert is, as you know, a man of the people. He has worked with his hands, and he began his life as a saddler and harnessmaker before he went Into politics and became | who have had their own He | a rtatement over his name might casily cause a big rise or fall in the mark. 1 spent an hour with him in one of the chief financial institu~ tions of the republic, and he sald he was laying all the cards on the table. He belleves that the United States might do a great deal to help Ger- | many 1f it would join.with England, weden, Switzerland and Holland in a loan to stabllize the mark, and says that such a loan could be safely se- | cured by import duties on certain for- elgn goods coming Into the country. He stated the Relchsbank would join in such a loan, and with It Germany, could get on its feet, provided the | reparations demands were at a fixed rate and not too oppressive. This man is. much concerned as to investors and the Intellectual classes. Sald he: ~eclate. :llectual, saving ' middle-class being wiped out is I mean all those individual fortunes, with Investments in bonds and glit-edged securities, based on the gold value of the mark, but now founded only on paper. This class In- cludes’ the salaried people. It in- cludes lawyers, doctors, professors, musicians and artists, as well as most of the governmént servants. These classes now have incomes so small that they ar® not earning enough to keep them allve, and they are slowly but surely dying out. This means that the real brains, culture and sei- entific ability of Germany is passing away and, what Is still worse, that nothing Is coming in to take thelr places. The conservative class has no means of sending its children to chool, and there ‘will be no support for German culture for 2 generation to come. I regard this as the heaviest loss of the war. “Is It true that Germany has de- preclated the mark to enable her to jundersell the rest of the world?” I asked. “No. That idea. if carrled out, would be sulcide and absolute mad- ness. We have been ruined by the fall of the mark, and our property and stocks are.being taken over by foreigners. We have not one-fourth jthe exports we had before the war, and between Viadivostok and Berlin we have lost a buying population of three hundred millions. This is so With other countries. Bolshevism ana the poverty of Europe have made the world market much smaller. Before the war we had a forelgn trade of twenty billion gold marks and of this ten billlons were exports. The other bijlions, which formed the balance of trade agalnst us, we could pay because of our large shipping fleet, our colonies from which we received raw materials and our foreign in- vestments which paid dividends. Now president of these sixty-odd millions of people. W Upon leaving; T referred to his re- 1 semblance to Theodore Roosevelt, and asited him for a photograph. There- pon he went to his desk and wrote X signature at the foot of the plc- ture My next talk f& with a man whose mosition, in Gerpany is such that we have lost lll of our colonles, and aleo our foreign Investments. We used to make a profit on what the forelgn- ers bought In the country. Now such ithings are pald for In marks and we lose all saround. Indeed, the outlook Is dark.” %% 'Y next talk relates to the worke ingman. It is with Dr. Herman the passiog away of the conservative | “There is one thing ti$t most for- | ~ners coming to Germany do not | This is that our thrifty, | we have lost much of our shipping,' One Banker Expresses Fear That Through Poverty the Thrifty, Intellectual, Saving Mid- dle Class Ts Being Wiped Out—“This Means,” He Says, “That the Real Brains, Culture and Scientific Ability of the Country Are Passing Away, and That Nothing Is Coming in to Take Their, Places”—Million Families Homeless—Story of a Thousand Spikes. lLlES IN GERMANY ARE SAID TO BE HOMELESS. HERE, AN OLD FREIGHT CAR HAS BEEN TURNED INTO A ‘ONE rm DWELLING FOR THE MOTHER AND SIX CHILDREN.” Leymann, the ministerial counselor of the department of labor. He tells me there are something like forty thousand unemployed in Berlin, and that Germany has about two hundred . thousand men out of work. This is nothing in comparison with the mil- | lons or so of unemployed in Great Britaln and I venture there are but few countries in Europe Which have #0 few out of a job. Only about one in ten out of work are now recelving.! a dole. The trouble in keeping the factories going Is the lack of raw materials, which have to be pald for in gold, and the high cost of coal. Dr. Leymann says that labor of all class- es here is much underpald and that the conditions are daily rowing more serious. “Take our government officials, for instance.” sald Dr. Leymann. “We do not have enough to support us. I have, as you know, an important po= sition and before the war was earn- ing ten times what I do now. My | salary was then about four thousand dollars a year. It is now less than two hundred doflars, and owing to the {rise and fall of the mark, I camnot tell at the beginning of the month | what it will be at the end. I have to | figure on how much and what food I can buy for my family, and as to new clothes and shoes, these are out of the question. Indeed, my life has be- |come & mere matter of existence.” I then asked Dr. Leymann how the men In the mines and factories could live on their wages of twenty-five| cents a day. He replied: “They do not 1ivé, they exist. None {of them. is buying new clotifts, and the majority are So_underfed that their labor is not as eficient as it was In the past. We have cut down our hours of work to-elght and we’ ars nrnduln_l nuh less per hour. In other ways the falling off of our labor supply is enormous. During the war we had three millions killed and two millions more were so badly wounded that they will never regain their old working capacity. We are short of houses. There are & million famili without homes. We have hundreds of thousands who have come back into Germany from Alsace-Lor- raine and three-quarters of a million’ have béen crowded out of Poland into this country by the plebescite in Up- per Silesia.” “Our small factories are passing away,* continued Dr. Leymann. “Germany is & country of home in- dustries as well as big factorles, but the small industries are slowly but surely declining. They are feeding upon their surplus, for they have not the capital or the raw materials to lucpthnuhl- They -cannot buy | i muqu“mmmmmm the mbuu. and less every month. As the fuel fails the production declines, some of the men’ are laid off and so unem- ployment Increases. We are not able to buy from the outside the things that can be made cheaper there than at home, We have more than a mil- lion men working on stuff we ought to buy from foreign countries. . We have no gold for this purpose, and are frcedo to this extravagant manufac- turing to get the necessities of life. As it 1s, we are selling some of our goods lower than the cost of produc- tion. Germany is rapidly regaining its place on the ocean. All the shipyards are busy and the new ships are buflt 0 that they can be economically run. The labor is cheap and the work is subsidized, as are also the shipping lines. The sallors are paid in marks and -wlmy-mtmam lt, is ex- \pected that freight and passenger | rates will be cut and that a live com- petition against the English and our | ships Wwill be inaugurated. Last year the port of Hamburg alone cleared | more than 12,000 ships of over .13, 1 000,000 registered tonnage. Notwithstanding this, the manag- |ers of the steamship lines apparently take a gloomy view of affairs. I had an interview In Hamburg last week with one of the greatest of them. He sald 3efore the war 1 had one handred clerks in my office. 1 have now four | hundred and tdey are the best I can | nire. They are mot equal to the one| hundred I had in 1914. They are| crazy, so to speak, at the fluctuation | of values.. They get so many marks| every pay day and rush out to spemfl them, fearing they will be worth less| a few days thereafter. This dete- rloration goes on in the shipyards and In the factories. The whole world seems on the down grade. All hu- manity is crazy. We sit here know- ing that In Russia they are eating human flesh. I have had a talk with a physician who has just returned| from the Volga. He says there are | | doctors in that region whose chief | business is to decide, when a person dies, whether his hody is fit for hu-| man consumption as foo R A HERE referred to the profits which | the ship companies and othters are paving, and the captaln of jndus- try said: “The high - dividends of Germany are looked upon as proof of prosper- ity: they are mot. The fall of the mark has been such that the shares in companies do not represent the in- vestment. The man who had one hundred marks or $26 so placed In 1914 got five marks or $1.25 when his | company paid a 5 per cent dividend. | For that he could buy 100 eggs. He has the eame capital in marks today and if his dividend has increased to 25 per cent it amounts to only 25 pa- per marks or one-eighth of a cent which will not buy one-tenth of an egg. This shows what our big divi- dends mean and what the paper in- comes and paper dividends amount to ‘when reduced to thé common denom- {nator of the cost of living. “It §s what one can get for his money, and not its face value, that determines its purchasing power. This applies to all sorts of Invest- ments and all kinds of purchases. A man, Wwho at the end of the war had a thousand marks or $250 in a savings bank, ‘finds that he has less than § cents. At the close of the war he might have bought 100 pairs of shoes with his savings. Today he cannot buy one pair of shoe strings. It he had turned that money into dollars at the time he put it into the bank and laid it away, it would now be worth 5,000,000 marks instead of 1,000 marks. In_other words, the more you save the more ¥ou lose, or, rath- er, the more you have saved the more you have los! “Phese conditions have divided Germany ‘into three classes of soclety. | have a new One 1s the masses who have saved in the past and who are quietly suffer- {Ing and dying today; another {s the profiteers who nre spending reck- lessly, and the third is those who are desperate and who, in a blind fury, would destroy the government and a society that permits such conditions. Germany cannot stand this long. So far, she has been the chief bulwark agalnst bolshevism, but if no change occurs she is likely to turn to the east, and If she does, good-bye to western civilization and the civilized world.” It is only through comparisons like the above that one can get any idea of how the mark affects prices. Com- ing from Muelheim to Leverkusen the other day, I rode on the street car a distance of six miles at a cost of five-elghths of a cent. During the trip I stood on the platform outside and talked with the conductor. He told me he was getting 8,000 marks a week, which at that time was worth less than a dollar. Before the war his wages were $5 a week, and that was worth far more than five times what he gets now. He told me that he paid one-eighth of his week's wages for milk for his baby, and when I asked as to his clothes, he replied: “Thank from the st chief troubls my uniform comes car company. My shoes. I ought to . but T have not the money, and I have had my old’ ones half-soled This cost me 4,000 marks, or just one-half my week's wages.” He thereupon lifted his foot 2nd showed me the new leather which had been roughly tacked on. * ¥ ok ¥ HAVE just heard of a speculation in spikes which is a good {llus- tration of how the mark affects busi- ness.. The story is that of a hard- ware merchant who bought a keg containing 1.000 splkes and retailed them out by the pound at what he thought was a profit. The following! week, when he came to order a new stock, he found the mark had o fallen that it téok twice as much to buy such a keg and that his receipts would buy only 500. He sold these at a profit, but by the next week, when he made a new order, the money he had was enough to buy only 250. All this time the mark was galloping downward and ea¢h sale! resulted in stmilar loss. And so he went on keeping track of his keg of spikes until he found that the money: left was emough to buy only one, spike. As he looked over his ac- counts he found that all of his goods were going that way. He could not make it out. He had bought every time at the market and had sold every time at a profit, and he had gradually lost all he had. The result was that he took the last spike and went up to nis garret. He drove ths spike into a rafter and hanged him- self. This shows how the gigantic rat of the falling mark is continually eating into the capital of the mer- chants of Germany. Their receipts will not replace thelr stocks. They borrow to buy, and no matter how high their prices. as long ws they sell they continue to lose. (Copyright, 1923, h} cnmnu'- wora