Evening Star Newspaper, July 1, 1923, Page 71

'art 5—8 Pages This article, of high lights and gleaming color seen by this English society woman in her two months' camel journey to and from the Kufara oases of the Libyan desert, although complete in {tself, concludes the thrilling account of her ex- pedition to the holy of holies of the fanatical, warlike, religious confraternity of the Senussi—a branch of the Mohammedans. One white prisoner was taken to Kufara during the war by these allies of the Turks. A German had reached Kufara In 1878. Mrs. Forbes has been the only other white person to make the trip since. She stead- ily faced death from thirst, from starvation, from sand- storms-—but more acutely from the fanatics who scorned to be- lleve that the Sayed, chief of the Senussi, had given her a safe conduct, and from blood enemfes of the Sayed. Then a treacherous guide and bandits sought her death. Her only absolute dependence was on Hassanein Bey, an educated Egyptian. HERE Is a large market in Jot (principal village of the Kufara group), twice a week, to which people come from as far as Hawarl and Tolab to bartear pigeons, eggs, fowls, girbas and food- stuffs. Slaves are not now sold in the public square on Mondays and Thursdays, but many a human bar- gain 1s arranged in the shuttered houses around it. For 100 mejidigs one can buy a man and for 200 a woman, but young girls of fourteen and fifteen fetch up to 250 mejidies (nearly $250). “These be high prices,” sald the Zouia despondently. “But the people in Barca have bought many slaves lately and there are fewer caravans.” We learned that the Tuaregs of the west had regular slave farms, where they bred and sold human MRS. ROSITA FORBES. Copyright by M. Arbuthuot. betngs as we do cattle. ty slaves in one our guardian sheikh. As an instance of how uneivilized were the Zoulas before the coming of the Senussi, he told us that a certaln Shelkh Mo- hammed Sherif went to Benghaz, the end of the world, and came back with an oil lamp which was looked upon as a miracle by the tribesmen of Kufara. By the power of a little kerosene he ruled them for years, glving judgments and discovering malefactors by interpreting its light. It is a desert custom that when a caravan moves In at nightfall to find another encamped before it, the first arrivals give dinner to the late com- ers. Once we were unable to, do this because we had no food, so we could send only apologies "and greetings. Just as we had finished” our meager supper of corned beef and rice, a mes- senger arrived from the hospitable Mojabras bearing two immense basins of barley grain cooked with native butter and pepper, with great cakes “You ean see s farm,” said of hard sugar and-actually a teapot. | The joy With which we ate the savory mess can hardly be described, and our retinue made relays of strons. bitter tea half-way into the night There was much visiting between the encampments and a chorus of “Keif halak?” (How are you)iand “Talyib” (Well) sounded constantly. x ok % ¥ P two caravans meet coming from Jalo and Jedabia, respectively, the former exchanges dates for the lat- ter's tea and sugar. If any traveler reaches a camp at night he is freely given food and tea and a rug by the brushwood fire. Desert hospitality s amazing. Food and drink are al- ways offered. We were never al- lowed to buy camel's milk. It was always given, for were we not no- mads like the desert men themselves? One never passes a fire with two or three white-robed figures clustered round it without being asked to sit down with them by the one expres- sive word “Fadhl!” It is customary to say “Kelf halak?' at least half a @ozen times to each individual, though the reply is always the same, “Taiyib.” It is an erroneous impression in Europe that the veiled women of the east are ill-treated and overworked. The Koran devotes half the third sura to man's behavior toward wom- en. Ask the Syrian woman if she would lose her veil, and she will re- ply, “Not flll the men are better ed- ucated,” but the Beduln woman hides her face only before strange men. ‘With her own tribe she mingles fre 1y, and the work is evenly shared. Often with the caravan I tried to hold a tent pole or knock In a peg and I was promptly told: “This is a man's work. Do not tire yourself, Sitt Khadija.” (In her Mohammedan di guise Mrs. Forbes had wxen the name of Mohammed's wife.) Many times when old She-lb saw me resting at midday he would say, “The Sitt Khadija is weary. Let us wait a lit- tle longer.” On the ctuner hand, the Moslem woman is expected to do all the work within the tent. She should cook her menfolk’s meal and wash the dishes afterwards. Luckily by this time our food was so reduced that I lost mo prestige by my inabllity to cook more than damper bread, heavy snd unleavened. .Desert Visitors Slip From 20th Century Back Into Remote Ages § Tea drinking is a ceremony which may last anything from one hour to three. The whole life of an Arab town goes on within the high, impenetrable walls. Otherwise they are citles of the dead. I doubt if we saw & dogen figures in. the streets of Jof (in the Kufara vases) till we came to the Tebu settlement, yet it has a popula- tion of some seven hundred. The women literally never set foot out- side their houses. The whole time 1 was in Taj I never saw a woman, ex- cept one or two elderly black slaves It must be an extraordinary life within a fow square feet bounded by blind walls. The ladles of the Sayeds’ (chiefs of the Senussi family) fami- les can visit each other perhaps, a in Taj the houses of the Senussi family are adfoining. But I have never been in any eastern town where life was so re- served and aloof. Presumably the men gossip, but if so, they do it in each other's houses, for one never sees a group in the streets. Very occasionally one mnotices‘a grave flgure with brass ewer or ‘humble teapot performing the necessary ablution at sunset be- fore saying the obligatory prayers, or perhaps a reflective gray-bearded in- dividual standing at an open door. ok oxox HE great difference between the Senussi towns and any other desert city is'the entire absence in the former of the cafes, which usually form the center of life and move- ment. They vary in size and splen- dor, but, from Omdurman to Tug- gourt, one finds In every village at least 2 mud-walled room with rough benches and little tables, or, in the | more primitive places, merely a rals- |ed ledge running round the walls, where all the menfolk gossip over long-stemmed narghilehs, while gen- erally a dancer performs some varia- tion of the danse du ventre. In Libya, smoking, drinking and danc- WAS HE desert teaches only two laws. The western code of morals dis- appears altogether. One becomes a simple savage who may commit most crimes with impunity. In op- position, however, gradually realizes that two or three actions, ‘onsidered natural and justifiable in London, are unforgivable sins in the Sahara. The laws all true wanderers obey are these; “Thou shalt not eat nor drink more than “Thou shalt not lie about the places thou hast visited or the distances thou hast traversed.” Nobody walts for any one else in the desert. Every one walks at his own favorite pace. up, you drop behind and your com- panion does not stop to ask the rea- som. If you pause to shake the sand trom a shoe, you. one ing-girls are forbidden by the Sen- uss! law. Therefore the cafes had no ralson d'etre and the towns are silent, apparently deserted infinitely discreet! Laghbi is the juice of the palm, ! which ferments afteg twenty-four hours and makes a very potent liquor. The stern Senussi law decrees that any one getting drunk on laghbi shall be flogged and fined. - We learned a list of the prices in | Kufara from a ponderous merchant | whose striped brown and yelow jerd reminded on'of the biblical pictures. Hefin (trotting camels), all of which belonged to the Tebus, cost seventeen to eighteen pounds'in gold. Sheep | were five mejidies, goats four and a Ihalf, fowls half a mejidte, and pigeons four and a halt qurosh. Eggs ‘were very cheap—a hundred| for a mejldie—but sugar was two| | mejidies an oke (eight shillings for | |two pounds) and tea three mejidies! an oke. Butter fetched two mejidles for three rotls (one pound). Practi-| cally no other produce is sold. The! owners of the gardens keep thef {vegetables for themselves. |ed much Information about dates. { “SLAVES ARE NOT NOW SOLD IN THE PUBLIC SQUARE ON MONDAYS AND -THURSDAYS, BUT MANY A HUMAN BAR. GAIN IS ARRANGED IN THE &;P_,:TTERED HOUSES AROUND e T “This year the grazing is good in Barca, s0 you may buy ®several { camel-loads for a mejidle, but when ithere is no grass in the north the| |Zoutas come here with large cara-| l\'lnu and buy all our dates, so that| for a mejidie you can purchase but a few rotls!” He added that many | tons of the Sayeds' dates were even now rotting, as there were no cameis ito take them away. | The Bedouins have no idea of dis- tance. “How many hours s it to Aujela?" one asked. “There aré no |hours_in the desert” they replied. {“We do not know theri.” “Are there idays in the desert?’ “Yes, there are days. If you walk quickly it is one thing. If you do not let yourself out, {1t Is another thing.” The aimculty lin measuring by day Is that, except on the big caravan routes, each man's | i { 1 estimate of distance varies according to his energy. The whole life of a Bedouin is re- ;duced to the simplest possible effort. He uses very few words. The same verb has a dozen meanings. For in- stance, “Shil” means anything from take away, pick up, carry, put on, throw away,” to “pack, unpack, drop, lose,” etc. “Akkal” should mean to eat food, but when two camels fought hideously Mohammed sald, “They are eating “each other.” Desert. Arabs have no names for plants or flowers that they see each day. I ed about & huge feathery tres something like & coromandel which first made its ap- pearande at Sawaml and I was told, “It bas no name. It is for making houses and firewood.” “ONCE WE PROTESTED ABOUT THE MIGHTY MEALS. THE NEXT DAY THE NUMBER OF DISHES WAS DOUBLED—BUTTERY FRAGMENTS you are ill. The Bedouins often speak of the long waterless routes as “The roads where we do not walt for a dying man. An hour for a camel, two for an Arab, then wé leave them?™ It 1s not an easy thing to gain in-|border, but peactically no Arab out-| formatton among the Senussi. The simplest question generates susp! cion. A remark about the price of cotton stuff or the position of a well | arouses the darkest forebodings. The tght of pencil and notebook seals their lips. One needs infinite pa- The: can penetrate their reserve. MAGAZINE SECTION HINGTON, D. C, Desert—Ancient Customs and Manners That Prevail in the Distant Libyan - Fastnesses—Life in the Secret City to Which a Lone White Woman Pen AT are a silent race with rare bursts of loquaciousness. At an Arab gather- | ing 1t 1s not necessary to talk. Aftér | the oft-repeated “Keif halak” and “Talyib,” the men sit gravely silent, staring into space and sipping their |strong green tea. The desert breeds reserve. If a man travels alone for any days or weeks without sight |of a human being, without exchang- ing a_word, he learns to commune | with himself and his god, and he shuts his heart away in a sealed 1t you cannot keep | | he does not halt with | It is agalpst the custom, unless | OF A WHOLE SHEEP. TWO The- Senussl are particularly dlfl\-} i cult of approach, as they are a close- 1y knitted religious fraternity im- |bued with distrust of strangers | that almost amounts to hatred. Not | only does the Nasrani mot cross thelr side. their brotherhood tfavels by | their routes. Hence the advent of a stranger, even protected by the “Sayed: gives birth to a storm of conjecture, criticlsm and suspiclon. | When this is satisfied and allayed, | their loyal friendliness appears, and One Mahmud el Jeddaw} volunteer- ! tience and understanding before one|they welcome one literally as one of | lives, | themselves. “All that we have is yours,” is not, a form of speech in Libya. It is trué so long the friendly atmosphere exists, but one may have worked for hours or days to create the right im- pression, and a chance word may de- stroy it. I think utter simplicity and little speech are the best methods of approach. Flowery words impress them, and they say, “Thy conversa- tion 1 like honey. .Allow me to re- mm-&!m&zflrudl&" But to ‘| found the face of Zeinab, the prettlest ‘\\"Wf\\;“ HOURS BREAKFASTING.” themselves they murmur, “He is s juggler of words. Let us be careful lest he bemuse us!” * x % % i HEY always suspect an ulterior motlve and it is best, therefore, to | sattsty their love of mystery and let {them gradually decipher a suftable |one. The hasis of their life ta thelr [faith and, like every ascetic sect, |their strict practice isolates them from the rest of humanity. Out- side the distrGst engendered by thelr| aloof and remote from any| | code but their own, they are as stm-| ple as the shepherd patriarchs of old. The mentality of Abraham exists to- day in Libya, Also they are as easily impressed, | oftended or hurt as children. The| poorer people show the amused, ex- pectant curiosity of children, with | the same eagerness to question and {to learn. Once they have admitted |one to their friendship, the shelks | | ask intelligently about politics in the | middle east, and for hours one may discuss the Ottoman empire, the He- jaz sud Egypt. Once when, crouched under a blan- ket in & sandstorm, I tried to change | | my cramped position I felt something | soft huddled against me. I prered| | out of my wrappings cautiously and | slave girl, almost on my shoulder. She seized my hand and kissed It de- | voutly, while her companion, Hauwa, COME BY STERLING HEILIG. : PARIS, June 21. | midsummer, 1891, a young Philadelphian, having passed| his law examinations before the| board of examiners, rewarded himself for his great labors by a| short trip to Paris. i Sterling Heilig fell in love with the, beautiful streets and avenues of the City of Light, the shade trees, the facades, the vistas (brightness, clean- ness, finish) and the endless throng' of visitors from every land, seen from the sidewalk “terraces” of cafes —outdoors “and indoors mingHgg in one glorious cakewalk to slow music, whose great characteristic was mild- ness, politeness, leisure. Ah, the beauty of the afternoon in Parls! Here was peaco and rest,! without a hint of stress! Here was a great public life whose conversa- tion ceasea not! Why, these folks had time to talk horse racing and art, cookery and literature, politics and the stage! On every side were fellow Americans {n- terested in musle, museums, history! To our hero, it seemed well worth the Philadelphia bar. He sought to-stay In Parls for a while yet. The means which first suggested was to write for the American home papers the good time he was having. There were fewer Paris correspond- ents in those days. The Sunday papers were developing. So the ‘stuff” was desired. His first patron, met in Paris, was the late Crosby S. Noyes, co-founder of the Washington Evening Starwith the late Samuel H. Kauffmann, whom Hellig met also in Paris two years later, and, meeting, & an Sundlay Stad, SUNDAY MORNING, JULY 1, 1923, ¢ etrated S drew closér. Thelr thin, gaudy bar- racans were no protection against the madness of the sand, so I offered them a share in my blanket and we made friends under the sheltering thickness. Of these two slave girls of the caravan of the Beduin Sheik who had glven us protection, Zeinab was young, about sixteen, and round- faced, with curved full lips and big velvet eyes modestly downcast. Hau- wa looked ancient with her wrinkled skin and yellow, uneven teeth, but her years were only twenty-four. The Sudanese marry, If the parents have money, when the girl is nine and the boy thirteen. Therefore these ebony slaves may be grandmothers at the age when an English or Amer- ican girl {s wondeTing whether she s TS R 4-57‘. f/—'s, A At ~ old enough to wed! My little com- panions were full of questions and | comment, mixed with praise of Sayed Rida. They wanted to give me the eggs they had brought for them- selves, and It was almost impossible | to refuse a gift in the east. It is accepted as a matter of course with- out expression of thanks. It used to surprise me at first that i one gave | a man a watch or revolver he took | it without comment, but gradually I| realized that they give and they re- | celve with the same simplicity. | Zelnab wore huge’ silver -earrings | and bracelets and an embroidered teather belt carrying a dozen gay lit- tle pouches for her tollet necessities, | while Hauwa had tied her barracan | tnto a sort of hood, with a strip of | crimson leather bearing some ‘“he-| jabs” (charms) in tiny wallets. Both had broad sticks of scarlet coral stuck through holes in their nostrils, | In Islam only paternity counts. Be the mother slave or princess, the eld- est son inherits. * ¥ ok % | T is curious, the fear with which | the Beduins regard the black sol- | ier slaves who are sent from the Sudan as boys of elght or ten and| who are trained as soldlers by the| Senussl family. They are more brutes, than men. I have seen sheer murder in the eyes of the toothless Farra) when I refused him extra sugar, yet they are courageous and faithful to their masters. A good black slave STERLING _HEILIG, “AFTER THIRTY YEARS IN PARIS.” met with unforgettable encourage- ment and precious souvenirs! * ok ok X IS next great client was the late H. H. Kohlsaat, proprietor of the then Chicago Inter-Ocean. About the same time he was taken up by the late leader of the Yale rowing crew to victory, who was bullding up the Philadelphia Press to be rich and powerful. Following quickly, as early as 1892, the late Charles A. Dana, illus- trious editor of the illustrious New York Sun (who came to Paris an- nually at the Hotel Bristol), took FEATURES like Ali, our beloved cook at Jedabia, is worth his welght in gold. There was much difference of character be- tween the Farrajes. One had a square, bestial face with a few broken yel- low teeth. He was a grumbler and Infinitely lazy, shirking all work, stealing everything he could lay his hands on. The other was bis, brutal and stupid with something of the nature of a kindly bulldog. He would oc- caslonally return us dates or flour, saying, “We have enough. Why do you not eat yourselves?” We thought he might be turned into 2 good serv- ant eventually, for he did not mind cooking and washing up. The point of view of both was that they were soldiers and not servants. They were prepared to fight, but not to work. As a matter of fact a caravan guard- ed by blacks is rarely attacked, as the Beduins know it will generally be defended to the/last inch. It i3 generally impossible to buy food in the desert oases. There are no regular customers and no suq (market), Each family produces enough for its own consumption only. Dates are always an exception to the rule. A mejldie buys a great sackful, and though Buseima and Riblana, for examplé, do not pay taxes in money, they feed the Sayed's camels free when they happen to pass through. They also pay a percentage of sacks of dates yearly to the government. An official comes from Kufara to col- lect them. At the village of Buselma we ex- plored a good many ruined Tebu houses scattered here and there on | the rough salt waste between our camp and the clffs. The walls were etill in good condition and the houses were larger than on the farther side of the lake. The biggest round bee- hive room measured 8 feet 6 inches in diameter. I left Hassanein to tell the retinue that we would start the next morning and to listen to their elabo- rate -plans for defense upon the way, while T went with Abdullah to visit | his -relations in the nefghboring vil- lage. His sister lived in a low hut made | of palm branches and a little square court in front, with a wall of the same Waving leaves. There was noth- ing Inside the one room except some mats of plaited fronds, a few woven grass bowls full of dates, a couple of [vellow gourds, a kidskin of water and some rather doubtful blankets. The whole lie of these people depends on the palm. Thelr houses, mats, bowls, food, drink, baskets, string, shoes, stufing for camel saddles, all come from it. Several women gathered round me in the cool darkness. Most of them were pretty, with pale olive faces and pointed chins. The dark eyes of a Latin race looked out between heavy, black-frined lashes, their features | were finely cut and they had the most beautiful pearly teeth I have ever seen. They told me it was the effect of dates, and the thing that most in- | i I | | replete, and yellow door, and thers was the slave, Durur, with smiling ebony face, ready to lead us by sandy path and intricate court and passage to the wide, carpeted loggid, where waited our kindly host to wave us into thes long, dark chamber, redolent of roses and cinnamon. After we had grave- 1y washed our hands in the Damascus Basin, we crouched cross-legged be- side the Immense brass tray, and there was a moment of thrilled ex- pectation while another slave lifted the 11ds of & dozen dishes. [y Sometimes there was a small carved tray, inlald with silver, on which stood half a score of bowls of sweatmeats, stiff blancmanges of all colors adorned with almonds, very sweet pastes something like York- shire pudding, junket made of the milk of a newly lambing sheep, all sorts of date concoctions, couss- couss made with raisins and sugar, a white, sticky cream flavored with mint vays there were bowls of sweet hot milk znd piles of thin, crisp, heavy bread fried with butter and egten hot with sugar, called in Egypt “bread of the judge.” Arab custom ordains that a guest must be entertained for three days and three nights, but the generous kaimakaan (govsrnor) would not hear of our getting anything for our- selves! Once we protested about the mighty meals provided in the house of Sidi el Abed, and the next day, as @ reminder that the hospitality of the east is unbounded and nrust be accepted with the simplicity with which It is offered, the number of dishes was doubled and there were no fewer than twenty loaves ranged around the tray. The center plate was no longer than a bowl, but it ‘was literally a bath of mellow, golden rice In which lay the buttery frag- ments of a whole sheep. Two hours each morning were spent in that | quiet room going through the variods ceremonies dependent on “breakfast- ing.” When the highly spiced and pep- pered coffee was finished, there were always the three glasses of green tea, hot and strong, with dignified slow conversation, punctuated by many pauses, while the brazier smoke made little hypnotic epirals, and through |the open door a splash of sunlight crept over the castellated wall and lingered on the purple-and-rose of the carpets between the great arches of the loggla. ¥ ¥ About 11 o'clock, scented and, very we took ceremonious leave of our host and departed slowly, but the instant the doors of Sidl 1dris’ house closed on the last “Alei- kum salaam” of the departing slave, we dropped the ponderous and re- flective galt suited to our exalted position and ran across the great court to shut ourselves up in the “harem,” the only really private bit of the house, with pencils and paper: How we regretted, as we struggled terested them in me was a gold fill- | with angles and legrees, the perverss ing! They thought it was a new form of jewelry, and every one, in turn, was called upon to inspect and poke |have “If we have |about our primitive maps, but Has- “we make it into |sanein was nearly Why do you |to direction and as to distance, fruit my unfortunate tooth. gold,” they said, necklaces and earrings. wear {t in your mouth? They | {aistrust with which the Zowas re- We used to arguments gard even a compass. the most frantic always right as of so many long journeys in the des- insisted on unwinding my |ert, where all landmarks appear three cumbersome red hezaam, which 1 had | times as near as they really are. always rolled round my waist, and, swathing it very low on my hips, | European time. which gave me the immensely long- We had long ago .lost count of We used vaguely to calculate that the sun rose at 6 a.m. bodied effect of all Arab women. They ;and set at 6 p.m, but for all prac- silver earrings, necklaces and amu- lets—and asked me why I had no tat- | too marks to show my tribe. |showed me all their jewelry—huge tical purposes we followed the Arab day, which begins an hour after sun- set. We set our watches each even- Alto- | ing to solar time and found ourselves gether we spent an amusing hour in |counting the changing months by the the dark palm room, varled by drink- |lunar year of Islam. I never knew ing sour goat's milk out of bowls!what day of the week it was till made of palm wood, and eating dry, |Friday came, when, if we were in @ black dates almost too hard to bite. * % kK VERY morning while we were at Taj, & light tap came on my green StefMng Helllg's illustrated Paris articles for his Sunday columns, be- cause, he sald, they were “a-musing.” It was easy in those days. Just tell the fun you're having. Tell of visiting museums with Lucy and her mamma. Tell of foot races up the Champs-Elysees with Helen and her aunty after one mild Amer-Picon in the twilight of the boulevard. Tell of history, of grand old houses. Tell of Moulin Rouge and trips to.the Latin Quarter. Tell life—living. All was good, and there was no| photography to complicate. The Paris weekly press was a mine of gay line dr\"ln‘s, illustrating every phase of Paris; and a pair of scis- sors did the rest. Like this. Every great home paper had, on salary, ambitious young de- signers who recelved these Paris sketches gladly; used them closely as | i 1 i | | town, we jolned the stream of wor- shipers, clad in their best clothes. who wended their way to the mosque. (Copyright, 1923.) UNUSUAL ADVENTURES IN PARIS WITH YEARS OF NEWS WORK Sterling Heilig, Pioneer in Production of American Stories About the French Capital, Has Been Brought Into Contact Wit}t Many Famous Joutnalists—Changes That Have Taken Place. Democrat (which gave him a gala page on his twentieth year!), the Kansas City Star, the Cleveland Plain- Dealer, the San Francisco Chronicle, the Detroit Free Press and the De- troit News-Tribune, the Memphis Commercial-Appeal, the St. Paul Ploneer Press, the Los Angeles Times, the Denver Republican and the Bos- ton Herald. * Xk Xk % OME of these papers, it is true, are singe deceased; but it was never proved that Heilig's Paris arsicles( lilus- trated) killed them. Also, most of the remalnder (rich, triumphant) con- tinue, after fifteen, twenty, twenty- five years, to feature the Sterling Hellig stories. Heilig may not have invented syndicating in 1891; but he imagined that he was doing just that thing! Yet it was strictly personal work. local-color models to illustrate theRAnd, beginning in the old days, he “story” they accompanfed; and, with- out exaggeration, turned out more attractive work than the originals. In the New York Sun, particularly, from these beginnings, there ‘de- veloped really fine pen-and-ink artists. Such “Paris life” stuff was so wel- come, that, at various periods between 1892 and 1897, Hellig’s signed ar- | Happy, careless days! ticles appeared simultaneously in two New York papers, the Sun; and the Recorder, and later the Sun and the Press; in two Chicago papers, the Inter-Ocean and the Times (of Carter Harrison), and in three Phila- delphia papers, the Press, the Times (of Alec. McClure) and later the Record (of Mr. Singerley. Among other early patrons were the Pittsburgh Dispatch, dianapolis Star, the St. Louls Globe- l made personal friends like Mr. Noyes and Mr. Kauffmann, Mr. Dana and Mr, Lord, Mr. Kohlsaat and Mr. Henry Binstein, who kept him _thirteen years with the New York Preas watil Mr. Munsey bought it. So centinuing, on their summer trips o Furls, he met the proprietors of very many of “his” other papers. Soon their lit- tle sons and daughters, who Hellig knew as children, began coming to Paris on their wedding trips. He took them round . No American should 'stay more than two Years in Paris at a time. Other- wise the peace which passeth under- standing unfits him for home realities. As ‘years passed Hellig met. a quite different, a vaguely ominous the In- |category of Americans on Parls sum- " (Continued on Second Fago.)