Evening Star Newspaper, February 18, 1923, Page 75

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. €., FEBRUARY 18, 933 20 1923—PART 5. | B rims Appear, Straw Is Revived, Moire Silk Is Liked for Hats: BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. N American home from Parie s2id: “Why don't our women wear straw hats as they once did? What has. caused the | change?” The questlon is hard to! answer. Possibly the milliners are | back of the movement to persuade women to change their hats through- out the year aud not swirl from vel- vet to straw semi-annually, giving | slight chance to the delightful things that can be concocted between sea- sons, Tn other years it was not foolieh to weur a sunshade hat of straw with toses when the sleet was beating against our heads. At least, it wasn't foolish from a woman's point of view, although the men, as usual, railed aguinst it. They do so like to think we have disorderly minds or | capricious ones. | Just now, between the seasons, | women are looking kindly upon silk | ©5 the first reasonable change from | velvet, felt and plush. They ask if | taffeta is in fashion, and are told that has decided. What then? ered sllk,” is the answer. Once | v we called it moire, with an American accent. Now, in our burning Amer- Icanism we find that moire means watered silk, which relieves us from affort of attempting to pronounce | 1f one likes shaded taffeta better, + 16 entirely fashionable. This particular fabric is as fash- onable for frocks as for hats. It| wnade its appearance last &pring in evening zowns the color of parch- ment. The exclusives wore it now and then to show they knew was new. This year its use is not limited to a small set of individuals ~ho follow French fashions as soon as they are launched in Paris and m when they are popular | ; w. 1t will be worn by hun- | dreds who care not a fig for French styles. | The shops make much of it. The | dressmalers offer it. It comes in all colors. At times it deceives one into thinking it is velvet; it is thin what | SUNSHADE HAT WORN IN FL ORIDA, OF JAPANESE YELLOW STRAW. WITH CROWN EMBROIDERY IN FLOWERS OF BRIGHT COLORED RAFFA THIS TYPE OF ORNAMI LEADING FEATURE IN NEW MILLINER TATION IS A «nough to serve a epring day and a [UPon one slecveless garment during|straw with high, wide crown and summer night. Milliners received the news of its incoming with joy and comfort. They feared the public’s indifference to taffeta. which has been a continuous performance, and they were not quite sure that straw would be ac- cepted in February. They counted | much on smail flut embroidery done | after the manner shown in blouses, | hut they had a suspicion that the | public might demand something | newer, something with a more defi- | nite touch of a new season. So they | ed upon watered silk with eager- | ness | ITE milliners have much ribbon to manipulate. They know that dressmakers share the idea with them, hut this does not hurt their work Women like ribbon hats. They bave iearped their usefulness. They. delight in their lack of weight, their peculiar adaptability to small spaces, which | they fill without crushing. | he wide sturdy ribbons of this ason, are stiffened by concealed | es to take whatever shape is de- sired. It is not necessary to keep | such hats collapsible. The new shapes show tricornes, picture hats and Rus- stan turbans ‘bullt of ribbon patterned like bandanna handkerchiefs, of bro- cuded ribbon with tinsel figures, of piain Dblack satin ribbom with picot edge. The extravagant popularity of ori- ntal silks threatens to oust colored ritbons, but there is & feeling shared | by the masses and the experts that vone is apt to be weary of these Kashmir- patterns before spring turns to summer. Amnierica does things by the miilions, =0 it is easy to believe that a million oriental silk frocks, another million of handkerchief-covered hats and an- other jon of Kashmir patterned jackets have been put into the chutes that send clothes flying over this con- | “tinent. There is bound to be a strong reac- tion from the fashion. Let us hope he trade wil! have unloaded on the | nublic, so it can quickly give us some- 5 hing new. Back to ribbons for a moment. They are used for decorating a hat as often as for building one. Velvet ribbon ined with fridescent tissue and vel- | vet ribbon edged with narrow tinsel nlay an important part in the hats which go directly to the public this | week. The upturned brims on several large hats are made of pleated or gathered ribbon. They should be adopted only hy individualists, for they are not at- iractive over the majority of faces. | Their charm lies in novelty, their ap- peal is to those weary of covering the Here's a curious trick in manipu- lating ribbon that sprang up &t the t of the vear which is used on frocks and coats as on hats; a long plece is doubled and run through two sizable buttonholes an inch apart, The ribbon falls as it will. A certain new hat of beige faille, with sectional erown divided by sil- ,ver braid and upturned brim edged “with braid, has wide faille silk ribbon un thwough two embroidered button- holes ide of brim. It is edged with silver cloth. The sectfonal cro sors. It goes well with the sleeveless jocket jacket launched for Palm Beach to please women who insist as many spon- WHITE FELT SPOR. dAT. WITH WORN WITH WHITC WASH F NECK OPENING AND INITIA THE SKIRT DO 1S OF RED CAMEL'S-HAIR CLOT the day. Bright metal ribbon and tinsel are used to divide off the sec- tions of such a crown. Strange to say, they are combined with wide brims instead of visor brims, with which they first appeared. L * LTHOUGH women are glad to drift into straw hats rather than plunge into them, they gaze eagerly at the quantities of straw hats dot- ting the shop windows, for they know these will be worn when the weather is warm. Raffla is the straw novelty of the hour. It not used for the hat foundation as often as for its decora- tion. Raffia flowers are everywhere. They go around the crown of a sun- is mushroom brim coversd with chicken feathers shading from green to tan, the brown tones predominating. Its brim is edged with gold and green ribbon. There is an amaszing amount of decoration at the edge of hat brims. We have not indulged in such frivol- ity during the winter, g0 the idea strikes us as something delighttul in mid-channel. Ruchings of tiny rib- bon, of tinsel, of metallic braid, are used to give glitter to silk or straw. In these red and silver is a likable | combination, also rust and pink, gold and Italian blue. Often these metallic braids and ribbons &re run B&cross | the crown, cutting it into four parts. When the American woman par- AFTERNOON HAT OF BEIGE FAILLE, WITH BEIGE RIBBON RUN THROUGH TWO BUTTONHOL) DIVIDED INTO SECTIONS LINED WITH SILVER CLOTH. shade hat; so do flat duvetyn flow- ers. Both are cut from varied colors and wondertully well shaped. They remind one of Victorian pincushlons. Milan and tagal straw are both in use for new shapes. ribbon on one side; the tagals carry colored flowers. ‘Whether white leghorn hats will come in with hot weather, no one knows, but it is evident that the sun- shade hat will be the sunshine rival of the small shapes we have worn since summer. What about celors? Conventional brown is loosening its grip on frocks and jackets, but it appears in straw millinery. Bright rust brown with much red in it s the new shade. Green is amazing popular in the French almond shade, in deep Chinese Jade, in bright apple. An admirable new straw hat is of green Mlilan CROWN-BAND . BLO OF WHITE CREPE. S| TH V.SHAPED 21D S H. The black Milan | | hats carry Imposing decorations of ES IN THE BRIM. THE CROWN IS g\’ SILVER BRAID; THE BOW IS ticularly likes a fashion she shows every sign of obstinacy at a sugges- tion of change. The revival of the stralght-line frock and uncovered arms is one fact that proves this statement. The retention of the felt helmet hat is another. She liked this hat because it gave her comfort. She could pull it on over any kind of colfture, it withstood wind and weather, it was suitable for any cos- tume until the clock struck 7. She kad no intention of releasing it, therefore. Down in Florida it dots the beaches. It is of white felt worn with white annel jumper blouses and one-piece frocks. It rarely carries a color. There may be a sport handkerchief of oriental chiffon tied around the base of crown, but every woman approach- es this fashion with the idea that it will soon be finished. That's why they are carelessly tied, not attached. % ITH the white felt and flannel frocks a dash of red is given by a lacquer leather belt or a red hand- | kerchief tied around the mnormal waist, not the hips, or a red ribbon band pleated about the crown of the hat. Straw follows felt in helmets to show that milliners intend to con- tinue the fashion into hot weather. One of the tricks of trimming which women may like to know is the placement of a colored worsted sport belt around the straw helmet hat. These belts were launched at Christ- mas for Palm Beach gowns. They are made from several strands of wool in several colors, held together by a sturdy medallion of knitted wool, the strands loosely tied together at their ends. They are worn with sport frocks Instead of leather and ribbon belts. They are now tied around helmet hats as substitutes for the bandanna handkerchief. A hat of green straw i has the belt of worsted strands mixed |Wwith silver tinsel thread. It.goes with a gown of white flannel, which | has three muslin collars, each:edged | with tinsel. A pair of green and {white kid oxford ties gives further snap to the costume. These high ! slippers, you may know, have -cut- {out worlk over the instep and broad laces in the color of the kid. A helmet hat which American wom: SPRING HAT OF BRIGHT GREEN STRAW, WITH BELT QF WORS- TED, AND SILVER THREADS AROUND THE CROWN LIKE THE BELTS WORN WITH SPORT BLOUSES. THE SHOE IS OF GREE! AND-WHITE KID, WITH OPENWORK OVER INSTEP, AND GREE LACES. en bring from Europe is Interesting. It has more of an air than our helmet { with the visored brim. Its brim is stiff, almost as straight as oné on a sailor hat, tiltidg front and back {ever go slightly. Its edge is turned back on itself for a quarter of an inch and pressed flat into position. Whether or not it {s ornamental Is & question of preference. European women use a crown band of ribbed ribbon for sports and a shower of iri- descent cock's plumes in the after- | noon. The hat brim of early autumn was cut away to permit the passage of a | tur collar over the back of neck, but the fashion will continue after fur collars disappear. There is not much hair to show in the back, but the line is good. Sometimes the brim is rolled up on itself like & tea wafer. Again it is eharply cut away to the cdge of |crown and finished with a binding or a wide bow of ribbon or tinsel braid and galloon. The lack of brim at back gives emphasis to the for- ward tilt in front. It also keeps a | woman from looking as though some one had hit her with an ax. | YY7HEN a moderate sized hat brim ‘V extends downward over the neck most women look their worst. Only amazing beauty can stand an im-. mense hat brim swooping down over the shoulders. No woman should tol- erate a three-inch brim digging into the end of her neck, but most of us do. We gain in grace, therefore, by cutting the brims sharply off at the back. The flower-pot crown led the way | to stiff, narrow crowns last autumn, e Your Home and You BY HULEN KENDALL. “Have you read So-and | quired the caller, pleasant! “No, I haven't, young mother, with a little line ot discoursgement puckering between her brows. “I just don't seem to tind a moment, not for reading, anyway. When you have three young hopefuls, and do gl your own housework, make most of their clothes and your own, and mend, cook, clean and go to market, you just hardly have a moment to call your own. I look at a magasine or two, but 1 never get a chance to read a whole long book through. 1f I try to réad in the evening, I'm so tired that 1 get sleepy right away.” “I know,” the clder woman nodded sympathetically. I used to have just the same experience before my chil- dren grow up. Now I Lave more time. But even in the eariy daye of my married life I read a surprising number of books, by the fifteen-min- utes-a-day method. I read somewhers that by systematic reading for fifteen minutes every day, regularly, any person could be w8ll-read. “I began doing my fifteen minutes a day by doing my reading in bed. I started for bed fifteen minutes earlfer than usual, and read for fifteen minutes while rubbing in my cold cream. Now and then, when 1 went to bed late, 1 set my alarm and woke fifteen minutes earlier the next morning. 1 just set my teeth and determined that I wasn't going to become a mental ignoramus just be- cause 1 was a good mother and housekeeper. “It was the enforced quarter-hour period that helped me to do all the reading 1 did during those years. 1T I had just started out to ‘read a book' without a starting and stop- ping time, I ehould have given in to sleepiriess or let any little inter- ruption stop me. Finally, that guiet fiftcen minutes In bed, with a good light over my head and the broader outlook that good literature gives one, became my daily release (rom the petty cares of my house. “I still adhere to my quarter-hour of reading every day, in bed, even though I have plenty of time during the day. It has become a habit to read fifteen minutes just before 1 sleep. You'll be surprised to find how much literary ground. ycu can cover. in & week, if yowll try it.” » confessed. the busy. | but the effort to wear them was dis- astrous to the masses, so the fashion does not dominate all others. The majority of women demand a soft. loose crown which balances the face. | This the milliners gave them. The spring hats encourage both kinds. Woe be to the woman who chooses the wrong one. Nothing can so mar the face as & | high stiff hat when a soft low one should be worn. If a short woman thinks it necessary to wear a high crown to give added inches, let her place a wide brim below it: Bven the face with chiseled features is not at its best under a stove-pipe crown and a tiny rolling brim. It becomes masculine. It is not given to évery man to carry the English silk beaver shape off with any de- gree of grace, so why should any woman think she will have better tuck? (Copyright, 1928.) LA-UD-DIN, the merchant, and Ghiyas, the wise, his friend, foregathered to thresh out a momentous matter. And as A they spoke a veiled woman, safe from eyes, listened for a space. “It is thus,” said Ghiyas. all Hyderabad Sind is there one so “Not in rich as thou art, Ala-ud-din. Thou tradest in alien lands and the fruits thereof are mine. Thou are a wor- shipper of the serpent, and thy habit is In accord with thy faith: vet like some adventurer of the far west to whom religion hath no meaning, thou puttest welfare and inclination first. Is it not so?" “Truly,” replied Ala-ud-din. “Why | should it be otherwise? Whoso sit- | teth with folded hands when that which he desireth is within reach deserveth unhappiness.” “But why shouldst thou covet this woman? She hath a husband, one trusted by thee, and one who looketh up to the “Asketh thou why? It is true I! have many wives. But no heir have 1 but in my wish and my prayers. I would take this woman Fatimah in hope of & sor. Thou hasy seen' her only as her veil discloseth her. Thou knowest her cyes are like the stars.| I eame upon her once in the harem. She is & vorite with my wives, though of a strange faith. Her skin is*the color of wild honey, and her| srace surpasseth that of the gaselle.” “1' see thou art smitten with the beauty of this woman.” “Even 80. And may sire'an heir?” “Yet would she be a favorite of thy 1 not also de- ¢ t mattereth it in my harem though another come?” “But as to Jafar, the husband of Falimah. He who soweth thorns SPRING HAT OF GREEN MILAN STRAW, WITH WIDE BRIM. COVERED WITH COCK'S FEATHERS. SHADED FROM GREEN TO TAN. THE BRIM IS EDGED WITH FINE GOLD-AND.GREEN RIBBOYN FATIMAH AND THE MERCHANT BY J. A. WALDRON. \ “AND AS THEY SPOKE A VEILED WOMAN LISTENED FOR A SPACE.” cannot reap grapes. and fond, even as is Fatimgh. Jafar is young It iy ered among those who little knew their worth. I shall send him alone true that thy wealth is great, as herjon a journey to farthest India, to & honor in thee might be. But when an ass climbs a ladder then shall we find wisdom in a woman, And in two measures of dates there {s one meas- ure of stones. What, I ask, of Jafar?” “It is thus, O Ghiyas. Jafar knoweth not that I covet Fatimah. He knoweth that I trust him in many things. He guardeth my treasure— the store of rare jewels I have gath- point where is one who oweth to me all he hath, To that one shall I send beforehand word that Jafar is to tarry with him until my wish for his return, and that it will please me if Jafar marry some woman of great beauty and worth. The veiled woman withdrew from | her concealment as Ala-ud-din and Ghiyas still argued. How Deep Do Whales Dive? OTH whalers and naturalists have held that when whales “sound,” they descend to great depths. One authority esti- mates that the larger members of the group dive fully 1,000 yards. Another authority challenges this bellet, and states that, in his opinion, 100 yards is the maximum depth to which any whale can dive, and that many spe- cles do not reach anything like that 1mit. ~“Why stould whales wish to go'to such depths?” asks this authority. All whales sound for the purpase of obtaining f60d;:and in ‘the pro- found darkness-of 1,000 yards what food could they gpt? Those species which, feed. on. animalcules might perhaps obtain ‘what they Want But ‘how about the: species which feed on fishes and cuttles? At a depth ot 1,000 yards they: certainly could.not use their eyes to detéct noti-luminous speciés, and we have .no evidénte whatever that they feed on the self- luminous deep-sea fish and cuttles, if, indeed, there be any of the lat- ter. On the contrary, the available evidence fndicates that they ean feed on ordinary light-dwelling fishes and cuttles which live in much shallower waters. But this is not all. It is known that the effect of a pressure of more than three atmospheres proves fatal to human life, and al- though*we may believe that whales can stand treble this pressure, or nine atmospheres, which would o cur at about ninety yards' depth, is it conceivable that they would resist the effects of ten times the latter pressure, or minety -atmospheres? Moreover, it ‘does not seem possible that a whale, whose body is” only sligitly heavier than water at ordi- nary pressure, could exert the muscu- lar force necessary to propel that body to a depth of 1,000 yards? The authority mentioned contends further that whales never sleep. One of his arguments is that individuals will follow a ship for days, which they could not well do while asleep: “And so thou wouldst have Jafar tarry with no desire to return,” con- tinued Ghivas “But can he forget Fatimah? It is said he sg loveth her that he will not take another wife.” “Ile would tarry until my wish bore fruit. And should he start before time to return I have other means, though 1 desire him no iIL." “It would be better otherwise, It i§ written that while thy shoe is upon thy foot thou canst tread upon the thorn. Yet...." “Good hap cometh to him who | taketh fortune in hand.” And Ala-ud-din and Ghiyas sat long together, turning the matter this way and that. And when they rose and Ala-ud-din sought the trusted Jafar he was on no hand. And when Ala-ud-din sought Fatimah the beau- tiful she also was missing. So Ala-ud-din cried aloud to his ser-- vants, and among them came Kassim, keeper of the camels. And none but Kassim had intelligence for Ala- ud-din. “Jatar, O master,” sald Kassim, prostrating himself, “came to the house of the camels with Fatimah, his wife, prepared for the journey upon ‘which thou sentest them. And Jafar demanded the two- fastest camels, and upon them he and Fatimah disappeared eastward-in a great dust.” ‘And Ala-ud-din sent Kassim: to be beaten, while others were dispatched in pursuit of Jafar and Fatimah. But they found them not. For go- ing eastward upon the two swiftest camels for a space, Jafar and Fati- mah changed théir course. 2 And with them they took the store of rare jewels which Ala-ud-din had'=- gathered among those who kmew not their worth. Coprright, 1923)