Evening Star Newspaper, January 28, 1923, Page 73

THE SUNDAY- STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, JANUARY. 28, 1923—-PART 5. 7 The Sweater Has Become an Ornamental Part of the Costume " ' BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. WEATERS are no - longer ths. drudges of the costume. They have read the story of Cinder- ella and have modeled thelr be- havior accordingly. -They no longer -®it In the ashes by the side of the fire. They go out in dazzling coaches and bewilder princes. The costume blouse was responsi- ble for the splendid costume sweater. ‘Those who make clothes saw in the Success of the former a chancs to begulle the public by similar gar- menta related to sweaters in name only. The result is in every shop. It is & distinct achlevement, one that delights American women. None of you may be old enough.to Temomber when the sweater was called a “Jersey.” and was an orna- mental and expensive part of the \ costume. It was first worn. by Lily Langtry: and .was invented by a London dressmaker - to- ‘exihibit ‘the matchless figure of the (Jergey Lily.” Tt was then that women defied .and defeated nature by compréssing the ‘walst into & small and perfeot cfrole. Mrs. Langtry confessed that she kept {wenty-one pairs of corseta in the bureau drawers, each rolled on a molced piece of tissue paper; that she never engaged a personal maid ' until she was sure, after three daye trial, that the woman cowid adjust each corset without flaw or % single deviation in measurement. A tape measure rested near the mafd as.she laced, and hip, bust and waist were pulled into the dimensions scheduled. ‘What a life! * Kok % \IAYEE our manufacturers thought L it was dué to revive the jersey in a mew form because of the many Dbits of costume’ taken from Edward- fan daye. Maybe some French de- gner realized 'that the sale of sweaters was slipping into nothing- ness, therefore it was imperative to create something new. These specu- lations are beyond one's interest. The fact is ‘that costume sweaters swung into the eyes of the public as quickly 28 the first enowstorm. As side companions withy the cos- tume sweaters there are others for sport. There are rough and service- &ble garments made of worsted wool and knitted wool copied from those worn by collegians, but the conven- tional open sweater of other days is often absent from a fashionable as- sortment. Its slim companion of other days, however, remains in fashion. This is of knitted wool. finely worked, whjch slips over the head and shirt waist; the collar and cuffs of the blouse adorn its neck and wrists, a leather belt engirdles 1ts walst, P Such {s the sweater the European Riviera took up last spring, Imitat- ing the Amerjcans. It remains as part of an American girl's uniform, but . 1t 1s not often worn by older women. The new costume sweater is an ornamental garment. It has nothing to do with sports. It may sit on the side lines and watch the game, but it does not take part. It is for idlers and idle hours. The average woman who thinks of Sweaters in terms of warm garments to be worn in the morning over an overblouse while doing housework looks at the saleswoman of the new sweater as though she were mixing names. For instance, a costume sweater of sand-colored knitted silk, embroid- ered In & mass of butterflies, pe: cocks and birds, selling at $100 Is not the average woman's idea of a commonplace garment. She asks for bread and gets layer cake. This sweater is one of the triumphs of the day. It shows the Chinese influence that runs through the or- namentation of many clothes. Its sur- face Is covered with small yellow birds and blue butterfiies rioting r COSTUME SWEATER OF KNITTED BROWN WOO! GATED TO SPORTS through leaves and small flowers: on each hip is embroidered & magnificent peacock. A girdle of knitted silk runs through small {vory loops in front. You choose your own skirt to go with it, but sand-colored crepe de chine or black crepe satin is each suggested, and both are successful. * o ok % RILLIANT oriental embroidery, which means warm colors with- out Slavio crudity, is splashed about quite recklessly on these sweaters. In the Langtry days the knitted silk jersey was spangled with jet beads and sequins, so, possibly, today's or- namentation is merely a variant of what was once successtil. It is younger in appearance than Jet beads, this Chinese embroidery, and it is put on wool as often as silk. There i{s an attractive brown silk sweater, closely knitted, fitting into the figure, whioh has Chinese em- broidery arocnd neck and down the opening at one side. Long, small sleevs cover the arms to hands, ending in wristlets worked over with 2 © o808 WITH CHINESE: EMBROIDERY AROUND NECK AND DOWN O IS A MERE SLIT AT ONE SIDE. G, WHICH THE LONG SLEEVES HAVE WRISTLETS COVERED WITH CHINESE EMBROIDERY; ABOVE WHICH THE SLEEVE OPENS, PEACOCKS, SMALL YELLOW BIRDS. Chinese embroidery. This sleeve is of the new type, a compromise be- tween width and narrowne It starts out to be a traditional Chi- nese sleeve, wide at the wrist, but it changes its mind and adds a tight band of embroidery which fits the arm like a bracelet to hold the open sleeve in position. There are numbers of such sleeves in mid-season clothes.. Women llke them. They are loose and open, but they do not commit one to the dis- comfort of a long, tight arm cover- ing, which Irritates women accus- tomed to sleeves that give freedom and the wristlets, which can be fa tened or unfastened, give the sleeve a good adjustment under a jacket. The opening at side Instead of front of a sweater is one of the ec- centricities of the season. Through necessity, slip-on garments bave cre- ated many openings. The new slesk colffure, if generally adopted, will-not be disturbed by & garment that goes over the head by its opening at the neck, but there are other colffures any many- hair nets, both of which are distinctly disturbed by the efforts of a woman to get into her gown or blouse through a bateau decolletage. Therefore the elashing In the front, at the side and down the middle of back was originated for comfort and remains for ornament. In a season when garments do not poseess a startling amount of origl- nality trifles and details must be in- vented, and these various openings have stimulated the imagination of designers. Once upon a time men's costumes owed thelr originality and fashion to the various slashes and openings that tailors devised; now we have taken a leaf from that chapter of history. v * ok % K 'HEN the hour struck for the re- vival of ‘costly and beguiling sweaters the designers bethought themselves of fur. Medievalism had inspired them with a desire for warm garments. The fur-mounted sweater was not & half-bad {dea and was.in keeping with the trend. These .odd, alluring little jackets of machine-ems« broidered silk, which displayed pa- godas, birds and landscapes on a black ground, carried high fur collars and wristlets, and the idea delighted women, $0 the fashion was run into other channels by clothes makers. A tightly knitted brown sweater, for instance, carries & wide hip band of brown fur, knitted with gold braid BEAUTY CHATS A Cold Cream Formuls. My old readers will be famillar with the formula for cold cream which I am giving today, but per- haps among my new readers there are some who do not know this and who would like to make it. It is easy to make and the best cleansing and nourishing cream that I know. Rose water, four eunces; almond ofl or olive oil, four ounce permaceti, one ounce; white wax, one ounce} benzoin, one drachm. If you use even a moderate amount of oare in making this you cannot possibly go wrong. Melt the wax and the spermacet! with the oil, keeping them over the heat just long enough to blend them, and do not get them too hot. In & separate pan slightly warm the rosewater with the benzoin. When the ol and waxes are -completely blended remove from the beat and slowly: pour the benzoin and rose water into the melted oils. Stir and béat with a spoon the entire tim as this makes a whiter cream. Use a woodén, enamesl or sllver spoon. Continue the beating until the cream begins to congeal. K It will grow whitish and thicken. When it is {country. loops and ends at one side, & Byronio collar rolls downward in frout and is finished with gold loops and cords. A dark blue knitted sweater, closely fitted to the flgure and ending about three inches below the normal walst line, has a flat Victorian collar of gray chinchilla; the slashed sleeves are faced with chinchilla and turned back from the hand to show their costly accessory, Fur linings in sweaters are part of the sportswoman's equipment. She wears such garments under a top- coat shopping and motoring in ‘the clity, not waiting for & chance in the They are the best choice for Lake Placid and other mountain resorts, which now beckon to Amer- fcan women as the Swiss Alps have done to the fashionable European. _ " Women who go south for waim open-alr life duriing winter discard the fur lining, o fur collar and] cuffs on sweater: Chinese embroidery, fantastic ma- chine stitchery, fine gold “or silver bralding. Loose sweaters that do not fit the figure in the Lmngtry manner have wide facings of shawl- phtterned silks or French silks with their civic panoramas. i “These silkd are really. delightful, by the way. One gown golng to Florida is a bit of educational ma- terial. Two yards of it spread on Hle table would give a child & lesson on the Famous old buildings of Paris. There is the Arc de Triomphe, the Trocadero, the Louvre, the Obelisk, the Bastille monument. These curk ous and sentimental patterns are in keeping with the plotorial silks we have borrowed from the earlier races, especially the Chinese. The designers have gome farther afield in costume sweaters than they intended. The first garments were trial balloons. Their success sug- gested the basque sweater, which Is an innovation of considerable mpor- tance. It Is cut to a polnt in front and is so closely knitted that it hugs the figure; it is fastened up the front with bone buttons to match in coler. The shallow round heck is finished with a.Victorian collar of Venetlan point or embriodered muslin. A high collar buttoned to the chinls substituted for the turnover kind when women are sufficlently coura- gous to wear it. Box-pleated plald skirts go with these basque sweaters, d in By Edna Kent Forbes. about the consistency Of ¢ream or mayonnaise pour off into previously washed jars. This will give you & light, deliclous cream, but if the ingredients are heated too long, or become too hot, or If the mass congealed too much before being poured off into jars the oream will curdle. It will be quite all right to use, although & little stiff to work into the skin. It is sometimes possible to reheat it and work 1t again into the proper light mass, but often too much rosewater has evaporated or too much oll has escaped during the curdling process, in which case the reheating does no good. Miss Brand: Ofly hairsindicates & weakness of the secreting glands in the scalp. To oure one must get the scalp Into a healthy condition. You can rellieve the unpleasant condition by dusting the hair with powder every timeé the hair is too olly to arrange becomingly. But never over- do this habit, as it is apt to cover the hair with & scum which will keep it from coming in contact with the air. Use only a little powder and shake It\all out again as soon #= it has absofbed some’ df the oll They substitute- THIS SWEATER IS OF SAND-COLORED KNITTED SILK, EXQUISITELY EMBROIDERED IN AN INDO-CHINA PATTERN OF BUTTERFLIES, A GIRDLE OF THE KNITTED SILK RUNS THROUGH SMALL IVORY LOOPS. IT IS NOT RELE them the conventional blue and green [are mingled. Of course a woman naturally asks what is the difference between an overblouse and a costume sweater. One answers with the single word, “novelty.” The close-fitting sweater that carries out Mrs. Langtry's early fashion is the pronounced innova- tion. Whatever else is meant by the exploitation of these garments, it is certain that they will sweep knitted fabrics in a wide path across the continent. * ¥ ¥ *x TUME sweaters have not ousted sturdy, protective ones. They are merely added thereunto. Their revival means that we will be able to Wwear sweaters at any of the occa- slons that call for pleasure or service. Under the influence of competition and rivairy the protective sweater hés faken on more glory. Certainly GENUINE SPORT SWEATER OF CLOSELY ‘WOOL, WITH LONG SLEEVES AND ROLLING COLLAR. THE LOOSE CRAVAT IS OF HANDKERCHIEF SILK, FOLLOWING THE PREVAILING FASHION FOR CASHMERE SHAWL KN PATTERNS. it has become a more attractive gar- ment. It does not content itself with merely keeping one warm. It has an alr. A woman who arrived from England on one of the de luxe liners sald that the most interesting deck costumery was the sweaters. They were sub- stitutes for jackets. Many were of Leayy wool lined with fur tightly bound at hips or In peplums and gir- dles with colored suede belts fash- ioned like horses’ bridles. Some of them had immense turnover collars and cuffs of white rabbit. Now and then the collar was held up by a hand- kerchief of orlental silk tied in & pirate's bow, the, lon, = l_iandkerchief .Fashion Continues BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. The shopkeepers attach the hand- kerchief fashion to Deauville, You notice that many advertisem gest the buying of Deauville' hand- kerchiets. The word has become pépu- 1ar, But it has no significant meaning to” thousands who never heard of Deauville, “Is it & horse or & break- fast cereal” asked one man. Here's the answer. ' Deauville is a village on the Eng- lish channel three hours' run from Paris, and Into It during the month of August people with money, names and titles are packed like olives in & Jar. Horse races are run in the after- noon, polo is played by king snd com- moners, baccarat rooms are the center of interest, the tiny little streets are crowded with potentates, princes, mil- 1lonaires, crooks, children, ladies and thoss wha would like to be.. It is claimed that more elry is worn in one night at Deauville than at the coronation of a osar in Moscow. Those of us who were there last August were doing the business of reporting fashions. Also American dressmakers, manufacturers, weave ers, jewelers, were as thick mil- lionaires. They were there to see, to report, to imitate. What was worn there in August was to flood this continent in October. Among the things they saw was a gay handkerchief, something like the bandanna worn by & negro of the south. It was tied around the shoulders. It was tled around the head, it was slipped through a belt, it dripped from pockets. France had worn it thus for six moaths, but America was seeing it for the first time. It was launched over here this winter under the name of the Deauville handkerchief. There you have the little story of commerce in & nutshell. It appeans that we are going to do everything with this fashion Tn the spring. The sunshine clothes reek with it.” Sport suits that go to Canada and Lake Piacld owe their brilliancy to it. Manuafcturers have put out handkerchiet silks printed in squares that can be cut spart and -put to any use & woman wishes. The bandanna patterns of the south have given place to the figurations of cashmers shawls, of Chinese embroidery. One of the new schemes to attract attention- to & gorgeous handker- chief {s to make & sling and swing it over one shoulder and down to the opposite hip where it is tied in & small bow. The first time & smart woman ‘went to & party and wore her hand- kerchief over her shoulder the other guests thought whimsicality Had run to madness. The fro¢k beneath the sling. was brown crepe de chine and the neck HERE 1§ THE NEW SHOULDER DRAPERY. OF, HANDKERCHI ILK LAUNCHED THIS WINTER AS A BMART ACCESSORY TO A FROCK. THE PATTERN IS THAT OF A CASHMERE S8HAWL: THE SLING GOES OVER ONE SHOULD- ER AND DROPS TO THE OPPO- SIDE HIP, WHERE IT IS HELD IN BOW AND ENDS. opening was sufifficiently large to let the bars shoulder support the gorge- ous handkerchief. Don't say you will never adopt this fashion. You can never tell (Copyright, 1923.) Kiography. ONE of the ingenious variations {n photography - consists in the use of & paper on which pictures may be printed in she sunlight and then at- tached to any object, such as china plates, glassware, lamp shades, or even in a—watch case. The special paper, known as kiograph piper, is coated with & thin. tissue, which is stripped after the print has been made and. developed. The tissue is then placed on any object desired and adheres firmly for an Indefinite period. . ointed ends i be 1o ‘| grabbea up their loads and started | turned in & half circle to the left in 1 Afl\ by A ! i g (i TIGHT CUFFS. splashing down the sweater and skirt. Pale brown sweaters were enliv- ened by jade green suede belts run through links of silver, and slipped under these would be @ large hand- kerchief of cashmere patterned fou- lard. White sweaters that rolled thelr wrinkled collars to the nose would be monogramed on the chest in Egyptian colors. The embroidery might have been taken from the frescoes in old tombs. In bitter weather women put topcoats of fur or heavy fabric over the sweaters, but they did not wear blouses. Such is the type of sweater to be ‘worn for open-air sports, but it must enough to slip over the head LEAF-BROWN SWEATER OF FINE WOOL, CLOSELY KNITTED, WITH HIP.BAND OU’ LINED WITH STRIPS OF BEIGE FIBER SILI THE TURNOVER COLLAR IS OF BROWN FUR, AND THE LONG SLEEVES ARE FITTED INTO as the collegian does it. The fur collar is not necessary. The gar- ment looks as well with a loose muf- fler collar of ftself. The populerity of Egyptian stripes in contrasted colors gives the sweater people a chance to introduce novelty on white sport garments. They make girdles on the bias of these stripes and add pockets and collars. The main thing to remember in the excitement induced by this in- flux of new garments is that one must look smart and distinguished in a sweater, not dowdy and com- monplace. The drudge has become Cinderella at the ball! (Copyrigh Massai Warriors Conquer Lion (Continued from Sixth Pa It was a rhinooeros, and as I looked through my glasses, he seemed so close that it startled me. I jumped to my feet, taking my heavy rifie from Simba, my gunbearer, as I did so. Then, as I looked with my naked | eye, I saw the rhino was more than | & hundred yards away. He was alert, | and I could plainly see that he had scented danger. A tick bird, whose home was upon his back, was flitting about, giving him warning of our presence. I took in the situation at a glance. ‘We were on a small plateau or ehelf, not more than seventy-five yards wide. It had a steep hill for its back- ground with almost a sheer drop-off in front, so that the only way the rhino could leave the little plateau was to g0 up the trail that we had just come down, or down the steep, winding trail that we expected to descend. As soon as the boys knew it was a rhino that we were looking at, they were anxious to get away. They on down the trail. I had not decided whether or not I really wanted to kill the huge beast, and I think I would have gone on down the trail and left him unmolest- ed, but as I thought of doing so he rushed out, snorting, trotted a few steps, then lowered his head and came fat s he could run. Simba jumped and took a couple of steps over the side of the steep in- cline, shouting as he did so, “Shoot, bwans, shoot!” but I stepped to one side myself, and the big brute passed, ting at every jump. . “:: J:on as he passed he put on pbrakes and almost stopped, then a fast trot. 5 I thought he was making for the path that lead up the hill, but he almost completed the ocircle and started down the steep ingline. This all happened very quickly and the loaded ‘porters were mnot more than thirty yards ahead of him. I could see that he was about to play havoc with the porters, as the trall ‘was both narrow and steep. The impulse struck me that I must kil him in defense of my men. In the twinkling of an eye he had gone twenty yards down the trail and as he was turning the bend which put him out of my sight I fired. It was a snap shot for his body. I fancied that he lurched forward to his knees.. At any rate, he disap- peardd around the bend and we could hear him rolling over and over down the trail, and the voices of a dozen or more terror-stricken natives rent the air. * %k % sfl!‘BA &nd T hurri4d to the bend in the trail. Loads were scattered cerywhere. Some of the boys were on top at large rocks. Two had jumped up and caught hold of the limb of the only tree and pulled themselves up into it. Some of them had jumped aside. The boy in the lead had tried to run on down the trail to the mext plece of level ground, but the rhino in going down, end over end, had caught up with him, knocked him down and rolled over him. The only thing that saved him was that he fell between two rocks as the ponderous beast passed over him. We pulled the boy out from be- tween the rocks. He was spattered with blood and looked daszed, but as soon as we saw that he could stand we ran on down to the bottom, ex- pecting to find the rhino dead. I thought his rolling over and over down this ateep place alone was enough to kill him. Imagine my surprise when he was nowhere to be seen. There was a pool of blood at the bottom and Simba soon found his blood spoor leading to the north. Now that the danger was passed all of the boys came back into the path and began gathering up their loads, some of which were badly emashed. The boy that was knocked down by the rhino was not badly hurt. The blood that covered him was from the wounded rhino. (Copyright, 1923) Taking a Seat. Since we ars two-legged creatures who become weary of standing and must be helped out by the four legs of a bench or chair, there are little courtesies that must be considered that would not be necessary had nature endowed us’ with four legs of our own. Whatever the clothes or external \ppearance of the man who rises to glve his seat to a woman—-especially an old or worn-out woman-—a seat in the car, put it down as an unfail- ing rule that he possesses. better breeding and more courtesy than the man who remains seated. any test of good breeding this is it. Moreover, it is a pretty good test of good breeding in women to see what they do In return. If they take the seat with barelx a nod or with no thanks at all, then they aré as badly bred as the men who never give up thelr seats. A well bred woman always lles a little, bows slightly and says “Thank you.” Don’t show lack of consideration when you take your seat at the the- ater. If you habitually go to the theater a little late, then be sure to get end seats so that you will not have to ask people to let vou by after the performance has begun. How- ever, it you are the one who arrived firet, don't force the late comers.to. crawl over you. Rise and make roem. \ 1f there 1s