Evening Star Newspaper, February 26, 1922, Page 65

Interesting Garments Designe BY ANNE RITTENHOUS! ACTLY what to do with white as the fundamental of a sum- mer frock Is a nice probiem for the dressmaker: They realize that it cannot be left to itself. If that is done. the ap- proaching season will be as dull and lacking in variety as the past winter seasons which were dedicated to black and nothing but black. It behooves the designers to quickly create an impression of stimulating novelty for white and not permit the public to fall into the error of think- Ing that anything white will serve. with or without a color addition. No one needed suggestion along this GOWN. BY DR LACE LOOSELY WOV SCALLOPS. THERE IS A LL, OF ROSE LVER G line less than the men who govern the clothes output. went to work in earnest the moment | that February began. mented much. The result is a some- ‘what sensational white season. To start off with. there is no inten- tion of letting white remain in pri tine purity: it is placed in juxtaposi- tion to startling colors. Paul Poiret stripes a white taffeta with greenfi for instance, makes a wide skirt of it which he opens front and back over a pleat- ed unaerskirt of white net. Drecoll throws into the arena two ! Riture, the kind worn by white frocks, one of Roman crepe with a long-waisted bodice, happily cut to a deep point in front to gi variety, a gathered skirt cut in sharp jester's point. a Dpetticoat of heavy White satin showing through the opening in front. The color is given by the ornamental belt of bright green braid and stones and a hat of th same with a white crepe lining. color * ok K ok ANOTHER gown that Drecoll in- tends to make sensational is also of white crepe, its skirt embroidered In medallions of red. blue and gold. | Y.verywhere there are bright bindings| of red silk. After all this, the design- er does not consider the work of col- oration finished. for he takes advan of the almost overwhelming fe n for loose capes to place one of i 1ed silk as a background to the white frock and then tops the whole with a small red hat Poiret, continuing his predilection for gar awning stripes against a white foundation, uses scarlet in a succession of streaks down a white Kasha skirt, leaves it at that, and turns his atten- tion to the jacket, which he makes of | scarlet leather edged with a silklike fur in pale beige, like the well brushed hair of a pet Pekingese. Red and white slip- THE HEM OF THE UNDERSKIRT pers carry on the color and just be- cause he is Poiret he puts a jockey's chting costume—as he calls intends the whole thing for 2a country week end. N Poiret is not the only one to turn public attention to short coats of supple leather. It is the united effort of th: French designers to substitute hide for cloth in jackets. Red is not the one gay color chosen. Apple and jade green are its sturdy rivals. Green runs well in the lead when white cloth skirts accompany the leather coat. Brown is too suggestive of war and trenches, 8o it is denied a place, and black is rarely chosen, and then only by those who feel undressed SATIN WITH OVERSKIRT OI' ROSE CUT 1IN IRDLE WITH SILVER FRINGE. and women;and ashamed it they are without this They | color. White leather jackets are worn with They experi- | green and with orange homespun or Kasha cloth skirts, and as a rule they have a fanciful belt carrying on the color of the skirt rainy-day apparel attached to a sepa- rate skirt. * x % % OSSIBLY the suckess of the cire satin jackets that looked like ani- mated pieces of Chinese lacquered fur- during the winter, gave an impetus to the fashion for gay and supple leather ve | Ones that presented themselves as gen- iuine novelties. Over here they have not created even a ripple in the waters of fashion, but is it probable that France will urge us to consider them serfously as soon as the spring breaks. The objection usually made to these jackets concerns their weight, which the average woman thinks is a bur- den. This is true of the brown army coats, but not of these modern gar- ments which have been made as light and flexible as cloth. They have quite an air, and relieve the monot- ony of the plain tailored suit. Sometimes they are opened in front to show a waistcoat, a gilet, as the soft blouse underneath. There are also leather jumpers that drop downward from the shoulders in a straight line to the hips, where there is a wide belt of the same fabric that is tightly buckled in with metal. Possibly ‘that extravagantly wide belt introduced by the Callot Sisters at their last opening in August was the original inspiration for these jumpers. Mrs. Asquith wore one of BEAUTY CHATS BY EDNA KENT FORBES. Answered Letters. Simplex.—With brown eyes, a clear | skin and auburn hair, you have an ad- ! vantage over other types., You will! dene much more carefully now than it.was some years back. The dentist Will also prescribe for that condition of your gums. Betty.—The toning up that the skin to show that they are not an after-thought or a piece of the debutantes be distinctive In all shades of green|gets from the daily cold bath will and brown, especially those which| Often stop this tendency to excessive combine yellow or gold In the blend- | Perspiration. Tf this does not do it. ing, as these will bring out the life | Consult the doctor, as this unusual which is In this shade of hair. Cream | activity of the skin in cold weather color 1s also good. |15 apt to be weakening. You will be Anna C.—There is no way to turn able to wear kid gloves if you first hair white except to wait for nature | Powder the hands. to do it. Since you are anxious tol! Slim. E. M.—To get rid of those have silvery white hair instead of the | lines around the mouth and the sag-| other, stop experimenting with the|RIng muscles, build up ali the tissues shade by using bleaches. When sham- { of the face and throat; by gently | pooing use oniy a fine white soap and | Working into the pores with the fin- add a little blueing to the last rinse. | xer tips all the cream that can be To have become almost white at thir-| absorbed, This should be done dn“y: ty should indicate that the changing |and followed by a dash of cold water process is going along rapidly, In|over the throat and face or use a which case you will soon have the|small piece of ice in a sheer cloth to shade you want. close the pores. Several times dur- Dimples.—The white spots on the|ing the week use an astringert and ails come from poor circulation.|let it stay on the face and throat at They are limey deposits that will|least twenty minutes. hleach off by applying a paste made| S. R—The hair is usually sham- from equal parts of pitch and myrrh. [ Pooed every three weeks, unless it is Harry N.—As long as you are suf- | short and becomes very oily. In such! foring from catarrh and asthma you | cases every two weeks will be all| cannot be robust. Your lifeless skin|right, with a dry shampoo occasion- | is the result of your physical vondi-|ally if the hair will not keep in curl | tion, so the first thing is to be cured|and look soft and fluffy. ana you will find color coming Into| Waiting.—Massage a nourishing oil | vour skin again. During the period #f taking yeast it Is well to take at least three cakes a day. Anxious.—The only way to remove tartar from the teeth ix to have it &one by-a goed dentist. This work Is Into the fingers every day to fatten them. Have some professional mani-| curing done for you until you have THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., FEBRUARY 26, 192 —PART 4. A | { | & L.7: . POIRET GOWN OF GREEN AND WHITE STRIPED TAFFETA, WIDE. IN AN ODD SHAWL EFFECT. these hip girdlers when she lectured and all of them are so broad they at- tract attention from the rest of the costume. Even if a woman does not care for the entire jumper of leather, she might not frown upon one of home- spun. Kasha, or Reman crepe with this twelve-inch leather belt as the end of it. * X x % A MONG the other features in which 5 the new season pays tribute to the last is the continuance of the gir- dle at the hips. One sees an effort to ;abandon this silhouette by a few de= signers, but the general acceptance of this oriental fashion by those who h call them; again they Aare|pave power is sufficiently important built in the shape of 2 combing|for women to rest tranquil in their sacque, tied at the neck under slm(nds. They can continue to cut lrouna collar, the two front edgesthemseclves in half if they like to { hanging slightly apart, showing a|do it. True. it has never been as exag- grrated here as in France. Over there. they like to tighten this girdle as if they were harnessing a horse. The process needs a slim figure; at- tention would be suitable. It was not always a pretty trick, this placement of the belt at the end of a short corset, but it is better and safer if it is loosely done when done at all. There .should be no break in the figure. If the fashion is to go on through this season, it is wise that women should learn to do it at its best, which means that it should be done in moderation. And one of the funda- mental thiwgs to know is that the skirt should have sufficient length to Jjustify the length between shoulder and hip. Fortunately, fashion does not lessen its insistence upon the long skirt. TIts length increases as the days lengthen. France makes no concealment of her determined intention to conceal the ankles. One would fancy she had a swift and sudden reversal to modesty, To expose the knees, then look as- kance at the revealed ankle is, indeed, a change from worse to better, but so it is. The new skirts shown at the open- ings in Parls were longer than they have been for years; for even in the immediate post-war period, when we were wearing ankle-length skirts, the Europeans were using bathing-suits as models. * ok Kk ok TTHERE s still more leniency shown to the street skirt than the evening one in this matter of length. The former are cut several inches from the floor. The latter often touch the instep. The hosiery people are not especially happy over this fact, but. as they must have reaped a harvest of dollars during fat years of high prices, they should not rebel. No wonder they ask th¢m- selves if women will continue to pay $7.30 a pair for chiffon stockings it they are not to be seen! No wonder they are emphasizing the fashion for wool and for silk and wool stock- ings. which ‘give a good exhibition below the short homespun - skirts; learned just how to shape your nails [‘here the high prices may be justified. so they wi!l not look as if they werel broad and flat. There is a strong feeling for woolen clothes wherever fashion makes ita LY OPENED OVER BACK AND FRONT WHITE TULLE SKIRT. THE SLIM BODICE SHOWS THE STRIPES = | _______’—f—\ | CUT IN POINTS AT THE HE WHITE CREPE GOW mark. Those who fancied that the use of them was a caprice—some- thing that would die soon after it was born—were poor prophets. Slow- Iy the idea gained. Now it i estab- lished. The February collections bave em- phasized knitted woolen clothes, silk knitted clothes and wool lace. These three generalities include a host of | specific things. The public mind is turned toward the produce of sheep rather than silkworms. Possibly the reason may lie inethe high prices asked for silk and the present irrita- tion of the French dressmakers over this unexpected condition. They are thrwing the i ! right of B OPEN their prestize to wool rather than| silh. So we will wear wool; wear it | probably cn days that demand mos- | fauito netting reason of their heat. | of us would be | ! | caprice that | made an evening gown Drescoll {of rose satin which has a tunic and | formerly. hort sleeves of loosely to imitate a Shetland wool shawl, holding it in with a conspicuous | silver girdle finished in front with | woven lace AT LEFT—FROCK COMBINED OF WHITE SATIN AND CREPE. THE 1T IS GATHERED TO A POINTED BODICE. AT RIGHT— . BY DRECOLL, WITH CIRCLES EMBROIDERED ON SKIRT IN RED, BLUE AND GOLD. THE EDGES ARE BOUND WITH RED. D IN FRONT. TH SRE ARE A RED BELT, CAPI silver fringe. An American designer forsook Imitation and used a genuine Shetland wool shawl in mist-like gray. She draped it over mist gray =atin and put cut steel on it. That's a gown of distinction. * X ¥k X T is to be expected that a gown, no | matter for what occasion it is in- | tended, should have on it a bit of ! metal or a lavish handful of it. As! there is mo decrese in the usage of | wool, so there is none in metal. | The makers of fabrics must have| worked overtime to have perfected the new weaves that appeared in February. There was that ham- mered gold or silver cloth with color | HOUSEHOLD More Uses for Old Silk Stockings. | Still the answers are coming in from my column readers in reply to my suggestion of several weeks ago that they drop me a line telling me of the uses to which they put worn-out silk stockings. The following helpful let- ter came from a reader who is work- ing for war sufferers: 1. “If the foot only is worn out cut it off, hem the bottom of the leg loosely and draw on over a cotton stocking well within high shoes to camouflage the plebelan cotton stock- ing and also to give extra warmth. 3. “Stocking legs it whole make excellent linings for sleeves. 3. “Pretty babies’ caps can be made from delicate colored stockings. The hem at the top of the stocking leg forms the part that is pulled down over baby’s head, the foot end of the stocking belng cut off, and the cut part gathered and finished with a tassel. This end falls over in a long, loose point. 4. “Beautiful bables’ shirts can be made from light-colored stocking legs. I use silk, cotton or, wool for refugee babies, making the garments double if thin. Cut open down the. back seam and cut out the back from one leg and the two fronts from the other, utilizing the hem that already exists for the bottom of the shirt. The front can be left whole, like the back, if desired and the shirt used [ as a slip-on. But I make the front open, sew on cotton facings and make buttons and buttonholes. The sleeves come out of the ankle parts. Bind the neck with 2 bit of soft bias goods. I improvised my pattern from an old baby shirt and have made over 1,000 EFFICIENCY BY LAURA A. KIRKMAN. for the refugees from old stockings and from knit underwear. 5. “When the legs are full of lad- ders, none of the above devices can be resorted to. But one can do this: Cut round and round, right through the ladders, wind in balls, giving a g00d pull through your hands as you wind. The result is a sort of silk cord, as the stockinet rolls up when pulled. This cord can be knit o- crocheted into rugs and table cov- ers, making really pretty effects with color cqmbinations, particularly Ro- man stripes with black and bright colors. I Knit scarfs for the refugees in this way and there is no reason Why caps, or even sweaters, could not be knlt of it. I usually cut it about one-half inch wide, but it varies wiih different, weights of stocking. 6. “When stockings are perfectly hopeless for any of the above uses, woolen ones being the best, of course, I cut right down the back seam and through the bottom of the foot, holes, darns, ladders and all, and open them out as flat as possible. Layer after layer of these, laid criss-cross, pad a coverlet very nicely in lieu of cotton batting. The outside is made like any quilt, tufted with worsted. I already have made twenty-five of these quilts for the refugees and th( were warin and soft and cost not a\penny. “Now, Miss Kirkman, I do not ex- pect you to publish half this letter, but I was glad of the chance to free my mind on the subject, as the gen- eral tendency to waste, in the aver- age woman of today, (even the poor ones), makes me sad.” There! I think we all owe this reader friend a vote of thanks for ‘her splendid letter, don't you? such as rose, periwinkle blue, water green and mauve. Mme. Ia- quin apgeared 2t @ ball in Parls in | gown of it, showing the water green tone; and silver with mau shot through it has been uscd by the important dressmakers for for- mal frocks, far more decollete than There is again a gener- ous slash lenge to the suprema teau necklin Plain silver tissue is strongly in- of the ba- LATTER USED AS AN OVERSKIRT 'E AND HAT. dorsed for the approaching season. 1t is used covered and uncovered, 2s a constantly revealed lining, as in a cape or in a garment. It even ap- pears in sleeveless waistcoats, which ain risen to a conspicuous They will serve the spring tailored suit well. It has slight in- tention of fastening in front. There are more ways of using metal than merely building it into gowns, for it continues to decorate the waist snd hips in the shape of ingenious girdles. In fine threads it throws it- self lavishly about on gowns, espe- cially since the Slavs have inspired us to copy their handwork. For- tunately, the fashion for steel nail- heads has nearly vanished. We grew weary of that ublquitous form of ornamentation. * * X ¥ AND 28 metal decorates cloth, crepe and serge, roses decorate metallic tissues. Only a few of the designers omit flowers. The preferred way to use them is as a trailing garlandat the side. Some frocks have girdles made of five or six rows of roses ending in a large cocarde over one hip, but the draped frocks rarely require a girdle. In fact, it takes away from the clever manipulation of the fabric to destroy its siructure in the bodice as a chal-| 7 d for Spring and Summer Wear NNE RITTENHOUSE Says French Frocks Are Built of Striped Taffeta With | Wide Skirts of White Tulle Floating Over the Stiff Silk and White Crepe, the ! Thin Weave, Is Mounted Over White Satin—Both Are New to the Season, While | Red and White Continue to Be the Combination That Attracts the Dressmakers. | Evening Gowns Show a Lace That Is so Loosely Woven It Looks Like a Knitted Fabric, and It Is Dyed in Bright Shades. biquitous woolen jumper which Ameri- | coiffure which are ught forward ns have woin like ind of uniform | 404 plastered against the cheek- for two yeurs. there oW A | hones, The: not ungraceful and [ n it at tae hem over which the "l they do not give one the slekening ;fllflrrvn.m neveral rows. Thix Keebs in | yought that they have mot feli a RIONb A% s ICrongh Sof " 101 comb or brush since they grew. |keep the garment in . The | lpreion Shegan it | On older women the bobbed hair is | B itn iete foher . n attempt at vouth that is unpleas- were very wide andilopse. T {nt. but on the young girl it has | band at the Zipline held in th ! charm. The hairdressers say 50 that the lines of the figure were out- | h*¥ do not think any young person |lined. 1t is now used over here in sport | Will wear lonz hair again: that the - I mpers. | fashion for keeping it short will grow. The belt is usually omitted from these | into permanency. One thing is sure, | mew blouses. Not even the siring belt |t we regard the women with long! lis des: he material provides its | thick hair as having some queer own about the hips the | men squint that they do mnet cut ) gr 5 SEASIDE . COSTUME, DESH D BY PAUL POIRET, OF RED AND WHITE STRIPED CLOTH WITH RED LEATHER JACKET TRIMMED WITH SILKY BI GE FUR. SLIPPERS ARE RED AND WHITE waist is unmarked. This is not a blow | it off to a reasonable length, to some- to the ornamental belt: it has its place thing comfortable. And now we re- on frocks and taere are always many |gard short-huired women as toler- girls who do not feel completely out- | antly as we do women with the vote. fitted unless there is a beit of some sort | marking the waist. | 1t is sald that the Colonial pump will s take its old place in the spring days and . Good Watfiles. will bring back the fashion for buckles, but the general opinion is that the) Butter WafMes, broad-toed shee with the almost flat| 2 eggs. heel and two-buckled straps across the | 2 cupfuls sour milk or buttermilk. instep will be kept as the smart thing! 1 Jevel teaspoonful baking powder for the street. It permits of the kaleido-| 2 Jevel cupfuls flour. scopic stockings in light wool that BIrlS| 3 4 oynen) cornmeal. effect. These are in gray suede and | 0y (0% SRR black leather, also in beige suede and Ao brown leather. The round-toed patent evel teaspoonful sugar. leather pump with two-buckled straps| 1 tablespoonful lard. is also to be worn with thick stockings.| 1 tablespoonful butter. - i It is a tremendous fight to make,{\ 1 level teaspoonful baking soda. ‘i this one against the wearing on the| 1 tablespoonful warm water. street of stockings in the shade of Beat ecggs light, add milk, flour silk known as “nude” and the Egyp-|sifted with cornmeal, baking pow- tian elippers created for women who!der. salt and suga weere carried in littlers. But already | butter, add them with soda dissolved one sees the latter types of footgear|in warm water. Mix carefully and relegated to those who are apt to be lcook on well greased waffle irons. careless of what is known as good taste. The girl of position, and all those wh& follow her clothes and manners, wears the broad slipper of sturdy materials, even though she does not care for the Oxford shape in brown leather, nor for the high gaiters which distinguished our cos- tumes during the war. She lets the l fMen. 2 eges. 1% cups of new milk or cream 1 teaspoon of baking powder. 1 pint of .our. Butter, size of a walnut. Salt. Mix the baking powder and salt | meit lard and . thin woolen stocking Serve for |with the flour. Beat the whites and" warmth. yolks apart. Melt the butter and EE add 1t to the milk; next add the beat-: i en yolks and milk to the flour; lastly. | the beaten whites. Bake immediate- !ly. The waffle iron should be very bot. and well greased in every part. Have the batter in a pitcher and pour it in carefully. As €0oon as the edges are set, turn the waffle iron and bake the second side. N the evening there are satin slip- pers as usual, also thin silver ones, usually without buckles, and pale] beige and yellow tones are universal. | Few giris wear the black slipper nf} { patent leather, no matter how or-| | nately it may be cut. For the afternoon they have taken by a superimposed line across the! body. So the designers see a better | UP the step-in shoe which has been chance to give the flowers their full | revived. It goes on with a shoehorn value by dropping them, classic fash- | It has an elastic gusset in the front ion, down the side. Momning glories, | covered with a broad silver buckle in dahlias, black velvet pansies, roses|colonial style, flat and polished. In in any color, are liked. Iils newer form it is cut much deeper To many observers the most im-|dOWn at the sides than the original portant f:ltura of new clothes, es- m.'::el- As Atho _I-“ren‘ch P::?:.n?,f:: pecially in the Paris collections, isi :mxst “’w::r X’:\H;'::n dnnn"m. Y - the emphasis put upon drapery. It ok e i y S i in the back- several minutes to attach Ll ";‘e e'“"“["’r“’w&"i:,! and_young | % Temark o her shoes and not toi ground, except for la gown. Bur he was right matrons. 2 | shoes must be low at the instep or| There is no attempt whatever 10} p.y are clumsy. keep these draped gowns from nar- rowness. The fabric is puiled across the body to one side, whére it is looped or folded or shirred. The hem is 50 narrow that walking with Fortunately, there is a decrease in the wearing of the Scotch golf shoe in brown leather on the street. It is a clumsy affair and nothing can give it grace or delicacy. It has the grace must be expertly done. fringed flap of leather over the in-| At the Franco-American ball in|step. All very well on Scotch links, Parls, a most conspicuous social | but quite out of place on Main street event, the outstanding feature in the | or 5th avenue. dancers’ clothes was the drapery #nd | The bobbed hair done much to the tight, narrow line at hips and |relieve the ears of the padding over hem. jthem made up of “ratted” hair in * ok ok ¥ imitation of the Japanese coiffure, HAT tashion sponsored by the|but the French insistence upon the French last August, the blouse|smooth hair dressing which is hav- which is longer than the coat, will be accepted by young girls this spring. They like the idea. Jt gives a chance to be different. This blouse wrinkles down to the hips. In the case of the ing influence in this country is also cutting down the size of the buinps built up on the temples. A few curls are the result of this change, or the | flat fringes of the revolutionary through a sieve. One cup of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt. table- spoonful of sugar, teaspoonful and a half of baking powder, two egs®. heaping teaspoonful of butter and sweet milk enough to bind. First rub the butter into the sugar, sift to- gether flour, szlt and baking powder;, add to the sugar and butter, theam Suchiadd the yolke of cggs and the ricet:- thin this with milk to the consistency { of cake batter. fold into it the beaten " whites of the eggs. Menu for a Day. Breakfast. Sliced Oranges Cereal and Cream Panned Scrapple ~ Hashed Brown Potatoes Rolls Coffee f i Luncheon. Fish Salad Rye Bread and Butter | Apricot Preserves Dinner. Broiled Steak French Fried Potatoes ! i i | i ot Slaw | pCetery Pickled Beets Fruit Salad - fia Apricot: Dumplings i Coftee. SN G b* 3 ‘