Evening Star Newspaper, September 18, 1921, Page 33

W BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. ARIS is coming out of her black . like an old-fashioned, quickly- consoled and rather merry widow. For while black was still the ac- cepted hue for morning, noon and night, for debutante, brides and grandmothers, even for weddings worn in disregard of the old preju- dice against the wearing of black at nuptial festivities—while *black \ was to be found everywhere came the mode for black and white, white'and black and gray. Then with ‘rather amazing suddenness Paris turned out in violet, mauve, fuchsia, purple. That was at the never-to-be-forgotten bal de l'opera early in the summer. And there you are! Like the old- fashioned widow, Paris changes her black for black and white, though it is many a season since black and white has actually been regarded as at all suitable for real half mourning. Then the violets, purples and mauves, though those tones, too. are no longer looked upon as any more suited to half mourning than navy blue or brown. And then what? Women are still wearing their black and black and white clothes and som of them speak of the violine tones a quite new. The great dressmakers in their recent openings responded to the taste for black, for white, and made much of the violet tones.” In a \ measure they were but singing a new song to an old tune. It is a long time since that bal de I'opera and most women who can wear mauves and violets have done so. It looks very much as if fashiop was going to follow the traditional steps of the old-fashioned merry widow, who, having gone in mournful:black, virgin white or penitential violet, ¢+ yearns for bright hues as she never *.did before and bursts forth in a rain- bow of color. * x %X * JFOR practical parposes—for prac- tical Americans—this may be playing ahead of the band, all this talk of rainbow colors. Perhaps, while undoubtedly there are signs of a vivid pallette in clothes before the present season is over, perhaps the American who clings to all black, to white and to the violine tones will carry more of the chacet of Paris about her than as if she blazed forth in aimond green, emerald, orange, rouge and indigo blue. Still prophesies are interesting and it is what is spoken of in a confiden- tial tone that usually fixes your at- tention. Your milliner assures you that you must select a hat in one of the fuchsia tones. Black is smart and brown is worn by women who like it. To be sure, you will need two or three dark hats of this sort. And some one of the fuchsia shades . for more elaborate wear. Then she may lower her voice. Of course, these are the hats they are wearing now, but they say—they say that the French milliners are going to turn. about and launch bright-colored hats. .Al- mond green, orange, black faced with scarlet, royal blue—colors and. com- binations of color that have been un- heard of for seasons—at least..as far a9 miiliners are concerned. Somehow this expected interest in bright colors is spoken of with some- thing like bated breath. 1t wquld be welcome because when womén select _their clothes from a wide color card they usually buy more. It would’ stimulate interest. It would-be good’ business. But the stage has already been set for a season of black, of copper vrowns and fuchsias as far as milliners are concerned, and 1o new developments are needed for the time being. No one feels that there need be any hurry about it. There is always a sort of satisfaction in knowinz what 1s going to happen next. In fact, when vou see a play for the second time 2nd_know what is going to happén in the second act you can dwell more® lingeringly on the first act. We "can’ enjoy our blacks and our violines and our brown hats for the time, knowing' that when we grow weary of them the time will be ripe for more bril- liant headgear. * ok ok w y HEN we look back at the clothes of today from the vantage point of a few years’ perspective we may OMEN of French Capital Discard Black and —Almond Green, Orange, Scarlet, Emerald and Indigo Are Attracting Atten- tion From the Big Designers—Elaboration of Detail Distinguishes New Frocks— Ornamented Bodice Sometimes Goes With Full Skirt—Everything.Is Embroidered. From Leather to Brocad_es. . 3 accuse the dressmakers of having gild- ed refined gold or of having painted the lily. There are velvets and even brocaded velvets rich enough in them- selves for an empress, embroidered heavily with threads of metal or strewn with pearls or other beads. Brocades fit to be the vestment of a pope are draped with lace, and lace: of exquisite workmanship are elab- srately embroidered. All this may be merely the mani- e T N ':»m. W s & WASHINGTON, | i \ Are Taking Up the Rainbow Hues lightning. In truth, one of his most brilliant gowns carries the name of “Storm,” so the designer has actually taken his new trimming from this source, his imagination supplying the lightning rod that carried the sky designs to the cloth. Patou, like the other designers in Paris, excepting Chanel . and Ro- lande, is begging women to desist from black which has turned- modern FROCK OF WHITE CREPE DE CHINE WITH GOLD THREAD EMBROID- | society into an imitation of a proces- THE LONG SLEEVES OF FRINGE ARE CAUGHT AT THE WRIST. festation of an economic condition arising out of the war. which has brought down the mighty from their seats and exalted those whose pre- tation was humble, even if do not bear themselves with meekness and humility at the pres- -ent time. In other words, the parvenu is rampant and French dressmakers -are to -be congratulated that they ave not really ncrlficedel‘l;{ of the essentials of their art in pleasing her. Side by side with the overelaborate painted-lily . type of 'k, there are others, tributes indeed to the taste |of women who have long been ac- customed to the best that the dres: makers have to offer. jelaborate frocks are attractive. Often rococco by the fact that the trimming, though .lavish, is all placed on one part. of. the frock, leaving another part classically simple. {' - Thus, - often, skirts are weighed ‘austere in their lack of embellish- ‘ment. Again, all the trimming ‘posed ‘upon the sleeves—sometimes on |the sleeves and on the side drapery. In a very few frocks there are per- fectly plain though full skirts, with an elabdrately ornamented bodice. In the meantime the dressmakers seem to have lain ten nights awake, not ! carving the fashion of a new doublet, the but conceiving some new and original | spired him and type of trimming. a fine Milan braid. . Sometimes sh§: uses cellophane in petdls simulating flowérs, and uses it so thick that you] can dcarcely see the fabric beneath. manages Callot embroiders leather. And even the |dian inspiration. printed velvets. they are saved from being positively |outs, Jacob's ladders, stuffed cu: somewhat like quilting in effect, and ruf the new mode, but.they are but mi- nutiae. down,” while the bodices are almost|and the French dressmakers seem to have been able to make this persistent ; Y is|in spite of the elaboration of trim- ming. sion of funeral mutes. He has taken more than the lightning ‘design from sky. Sunset and.sunrise have in- he’dips into brilliant red with the hand of one'who is un- s afraid, ~He 2 £own of this new = L red velyet ¢ n jewels an O Charlotte offérs us. on her new | silver threads which Jullet mig! e frocks, cellophane that looks like | Bave worn. AR l 3 Premet goes her oné better and 2 to embroider cellophane. There is ] elatin _embroidery and there fis ringed leather, suggestive of red In- There are gorgeous ‘There are loops, cu ons 33 Delicious Caramels with Aplint swne FHHON Honey =P ek, — l-.—n#‘ - All these things add an interest to The essential thing is the line i FASHION NOTES. l Really we have not swung far from EWIS has made frequent use of | tones.nis tavorite seems to { chocolate: {this with silver.” talked about of his hats point of view of color was !facea with brown. ed the combination of these two col- ors that are not often combined that has already borne fruit in the work- ing of less distinguished milliners. It may be that this device of fac- {ing a mauve hat with brown was to make the mauve more becoming to Many of the dressmakers are show- ing a different line of colors in their +clothes:for very young women from | The lighter copper tones are especial- or the Approval of American Women ly liked. Among rose tints there is matuper.-women. Thus one .of the |[the new fleur de Bengale, and old famous- dressmakers - stresses green |rouge is a favorite of Jenny, who also and llg’ht eopvr for daytime clothes | makes use of bois de rose or rose- for i dép | nte, with evening i wood. frocks - of- ‘white or pink or p!nki * * = & Bergee long e e 12| DREMET ias shown w new 0 the:gentiment that black is an unsuitabfe selection for the debu- green that may take the place { with her and possibly with others of tante, especldlly for evening. z e et {the various greens that we have called LACK and -white combinations are | jade. Several of the houses are show- B % ing a color that has been called honey still seen, though this is & com-|(Qchre has been revived, and there is a bination always more favored in sum- | reddish copper that is well spoken of. mer than for autumn and winter. Still, | x % % % white or gray is regarded as the 3 suitable complement of black, Whllel T is the fad in Paris now to talk many of the new frcoks show the about the Carthaginian fashions combination of scarlet or rose or exploited in clothes for Colors ‘by~ Paragrabhs. brown. in his new hats. In these be a rich combines the most from the of mauve :is has suggest- sea- Sometimes he One of the brown-haired woman. So this L and this adjective is most usually | jehitalked about combination may Arcch with d':k :"’:" applied to the heavy metallic girdle S RcemiA mAlter o exnotionee placed about the hips over straight- NOTH!.\'G seems utterly to side- track henna and copper tonei line frocks of filmy texture. That is, they would be heavy were they not so frequently made of aluminum. With September Sale Attractions That Are Attracting: Our buildings are being renovated and remodeled. to suit your convenience, This Walnut Bedroom Suite September Sale Price $195.00 Genuine American Walnut, regularly priced at $285.00; a Queen Apne design, with carvings typical of that This Golden Oak Buffet Sale Price, $29.75 Colonial design, in golden oak: strongly constructed; has large plate glass mirror; two-door cupboard; long linen drawer; two silver drawers at top. period. The - suite comprises Dresser, Double Bed, ~ _Dressing Table : with adjustable ‘miirrors, and gentleman’s - Chifforette. 2 This Cane Living-Room Suite. Special Sept. Sale: V'Price, - $129.00 A most attractive suite -in- which the 'frames, of Queen Anne design, are fitted with cane.” The upholstery is a striped mulberry velour. Suite comprises a 60-inch Sofa, large wing Fireside Chair and Armchair. This Mahogany Chair - Sale Price, $14.85 This dainty addition to the living room is of quaint Co- lonial pattern with rush seat: the frame in mahogany fin- ish. Side Rocker to match, $13.85. The volume of furniture business we’re handling leaves no doubt as to the attractive- ness of the bargains. Right now it is doubly necessary that we push our September Sale. Carpenters, plasterers and painters must have room. ‘We would much rather move goods to your home than to our warehouse. Come and share in these September savings. Use a charge account to take advantage of this opportunity. We’ll make the most liberal of credit terms, arranging small payments il | this revived interest in Carthage and the Phoenicians, more than one inter= ested in- clothes development has | dipped back inio Flaubert's Szlammbo, | knowing that no one, perhaps, studied | the costuming of the ancient Phoeniz |cians better he. And there we find ¢ girdies of metal studded with_precious stones. There, too, i% found a preference for purple and for all the violine tunes that seems like & happy coincidence this season. He wag probably speaking with good historis cal foundation when he described his heroine as having hair dusted with purple sand. At other times she wors a purple hair net over her dark hais u fashion that might appeal to the Qark-haired Parisian. And almost al- ways there were purple cushiong somewhere about. She selected black coral for some of her accessories, { tortoise shell. and flamingo wings in their brilliant pink served as fans Peacock feathers were used lavishly, and one of her gowns is described as having been trimmed with bits of metal resembling fish scales. This Extension Table Sept. Sale Price $17.95 Six-foot Extension with Colonial base; substan- tialy made of =olid oak with nicely polished golden finish. Tabie, Living Room Rocker Sale Price, $6.75 A Good-looking and Very Comfortable Rocker. with broas panel back and saddle seat; ma- aogany finish. CERISE VELVET -BODICE, FLO . i FOR the cradle of civilization, the east. When we are not Carthaginian we are maids of Athens. The Grecian points, the hip line accentuated with its girdle of flowers and metallic belts, are features of fashion far re- moved from the artificiality of the Spanish of the seventeenth century. Every woman knows with what perturbation the news of the full, long skirt was received. The Ameri- can had featured the long tight skirt until the tidal wave of short skirts inundated the continent. but never has she liked the kind which is both long and full. She knew it aged her. The question now is whether we have skipped this type which has been worn over here in Paris through the summer, but which is giving way to this new type which is only slightly full, even though it touches the in- step. In Deauville the skirts worn by the extremists were five and six yards in width, finished with the balayeuse of muslin, but the collections of dressmakers feature such skirts sel- dom, pressing the emphasis upon an instep. skirt that hangs close to the figure without any attempt at a cir- cular effect. Here and there are frocks, especially at the house of Patou, which give the popular circularity by the insertion of wide godet flares at each side and the same device for gi' ing width is used with his new coat: No Compromise in Coats. Pato’s tailored suits are pleasing to Americans so they should accent the style for jackets that reach the knees. Fortunately for our the skirts below them are sufficiently short and narrow to keep the sil- houette slim. The surface is bril- liantly worked over with wide bands that take on resemblance to Bed, Spring and Mattress September Sale Price . . $18.95 : Continuous-post, white enameled Bed, with 1%4-inch posts; a reinforced woven-wire spring; a reversible mat- tress with soft top. $18.75 Cedar Chest Sale Price, $14.06 This is a good size chest, 36 inches long, 18 inches wide, 17 inches high, at a very special price. Made of fragrant cedar, entirely covered with matting. Now, more than ever, women S DEL-A-TONK is a safeand i Bt o epenics This Oak Dresser Sale Price, $19.75 Strongly built and nicely finished, with plate mirror generous size; is fitted with three deep, roomy drawers. Every other Chest in the house at ONE-FOURTH off for Monday’s sellink. Delatone i easy to apply — simple direc- tlons with every jar- Pt g \ You at thirty .or forty, marked as middle-aged becsuse of those few streaks of gray hair! Do'not * accept this unkindness of fate. Justifisbly tinfsway, with **Brownatone’’, those tell tale gray hairs. . . : Sy Snua : ! Ladies’ Writing Desk =1 These $285 Overstuffed Suites Are Bargains s«kPfic':';:vJs S 7 - . September Sale Price, $187.50 - ' ° A handsome Desk, of con- Thousands of refinedpeople use **Brownatone’’ at bome. Easily .,,um guarasteed. sbeolutely harmless. IIMW. faded or bleached 3 % 5 . venient size; the design = hair instantly to any of brown or black. Two 3-piece Living: Room Suites ‘of extra, large size, as shown. ‘Thg legs are of polished Jpatiom e ‘L‘:,,?“‘,:F‘,“Q.:‘.';‘; ““Brownatone" is odorléss and. greaseless; will not mahogany, with all-over upholstery. One is in very fine and durable blue'velour; the other in o construction and finish it rub off or wash out. Two colors—'‘Golden to a rich tapestry.. Easy spring seats with spring edges give vou the greatest comfort imaginable. is strictly high grade: Medium Brown®’ and *‘Dark Brown to Black"’, 50c and $1.50 sizes at drug and department stores. Sample bottle, with edsy, complete directions, sent direct on receipt of 11¢ for postage, p-din:“ndwarnx.‘ g wad : B THE KENTON PHARMACAL C0. - Figured-at - : Coppin Building \ Covington, Kentucky, U. S. A. Lawestl.wds : \ 3 - = Peter Grogan & Sons_Co. OGAN'S | @17-823:Seventh SN . No Interest Charge for CREDIT All Prices 'WERED TAFFETA SKIRT, TOGETHER M A FROCK OF CHARM. 5 N