Evening Star Newspaper, August 21, 1921, Page 57

- ! THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. o0, 7 AUGUST 21, 1921—PART 4. - By ANNE RITTENHOUSE. ARIS proposes, but the Ameri- can woman disposes. No one knows that better than the American importers or the buyers for American stores, ‘who go pouring onto the continent and fairly tread on each other’s toes in their efforts to follow what is new in French clothes and to make nec- essary purchases. %8 is important for them to know r four of the sort you are used to seeing. * k¥ % HAT about skirts anyway? What policy should you adopt in plans ning new ‘clothes now, that you will want to wear in the autumn, pos- sible into the winter? French women are going slowly and American women will go even more slowly. However, the very short skirt is_gone. For some women who A | , Coats for the Coming Winter. , never aid take up the very short line you will probably have to keep aitin ‘or_the most part wal are still wide and fairly low. There s little chance that they will be raised or tightened for some time to come, To be mure, there are some excep- tiana where ‘the waist seems to be closely confined. Polfet on certain evening frocks makes use of metal cloth that drapes very snugly from one shoulder down and around the at the opposite side. This is d in connection with a very full, 'y long tulle skirt that balloons out at the hips, :Ivln{ stress to the drawn of the bodice. Again there are bodices that are gquite frankly darted or tucked in at the waist.” But these are not nimerous and always the actual nipping In is more obvious than real. A It is hard to tell now just what the French are going to do with capes this gutumn, This summer they have been ‘legion, made usually to h_the gown with which the: worn and a lining in cont ing hue attached only at the collar and hanging loose. Obviously these capes constitute merely floating drapery. They would have to be modified considerably to provide any warmth for autumn. But the high collar that tends to hide the chin in front is a detail that might . FROCK OF WHITE CREPE DE CHINE VEILED WITH BLACK LACB AND TRIMMED WITH STRANDS OF JET BEADS CAUGHT IN THE BELT. THE SLEEVES ARE OF BLACK CHIFFON. circular skirts that were attractive and that called forth much favorable comment. But to be on the safe sid seléct a skirt whdse fullness is dis- Posed in skle draperies or in straight ines. The long sleeve {s better estab- lished than the very long skirt. For the most part sleeves are either very short or very long, although the three-quarter sleeve has received the approval of two or three of the French dressmakers. The sleeve that Paris—at least the Paris that centers its interests in making and wearing clothes at this time of year. It is is long and tight seems to be side- important for them to know how to| tracked for the presént, and if you buy. Lots of things are important— are one of those neat souls w! s light in feeling a cuff fasten - curely around the wrist you will kave to endure patiently the floating ara; ‘but most important for them is the knowledge of American women. Con- glomerate though we are, product of 2 melting pot in which have been thrown all the races of Europe, there is a very inct something that s American as unlike French taste as it is unlike British or South: . Amcrican taste. The French dressmakers and de- v signers, most of them, think they | know what this American taste amounts to. They seem to think that by making certain alterations to suit the diffefent average anatomy of the American figure, by eliminating cer- . tain trimmings and adding some{ others, lengthening one season and shortening another, they will suit] the American test But there is| more to It than that. Tt is the result of so many complex forces that when | a man or weman possesses this inter- | pretation of American taste we usu- ally call it intu Of course, if you ean A CAPE OF BLACK CREPS LINED WITH PUTTY-COLORED CREPE. FROCK MADE OF THE .TWO MATERIALS. for Street Wear—Long, Floating Sleeve SMART JET BELT AND FRINGE, WHICH CAN s e L 1 1 across the Atlant and there ar cmes 1k the signs of prodigious ingenuity. American woman e sort_of compaciness ab ra Modern and Rad- | amusing, |} But there i lappeal very etrongly. | We may well be incorporated in autumn and winter wraps. k¥ % FI\DM coats worn this summer it is not difficult to tell which way the wind will blow when real winds actually do blow and we have to think of coats in earnest. The French are fonder than we of making coats of rough linens and cottons suggesting the weave of woolen coat materials. Some of these have been made in large plaids, sometimes of black and white, or bluc and white, and sometimes introducing stronger color. These coats have followed the new mode in the close, rather drooping armhole. That is, the shoulder line droops at the top; but there Is little tendency to have it droop under the arm. Quite definitely we' are getting away from the co: silhouette that bulges at the hips and wa/ A straight up and down line takes Its place, for the coats are for the most belted in at a rather low waist line, blousing a little, but not to exaggeration. Coats are and doubtless will be fairly long, long enough to cover the frock beneath. To be quite exact, the French coats terminate two or thrce inches above the ankles, and this is a line that will probably prevail through- out the season, ‘There is usually many a slip twixt the BE WORN WITH “have the French fashions all inter- preted for you. You may be sure that in five or six weeks the shops Where you buy will have a carefully assorted, well expurgated rendering of what has _been shown in France this year. You will § realizse at what pains and worry, and what jealousic valries sometimes, things are Teady there for your choosing. Remember, however, that these things Iave usually been selected for the average American woman. Some women, many of them, find diversion and help, som&times even a source of econom n interpreting the events in the dress centers of France for themselves. You may follow the development of fashion be- cause somehow or other it shows you better than anything else the trend of opinion and taste, because it brings you into very closé touch with France in & season when you must stay at home. How much easier to imagine the French races if you know that this season they have worn black and white, combinations of black ana white an es of violet, if you * know that there have been striking examples of long bouffant skirts with the predominance of skirts in straight lines only fairly long, that fringe and jet have played an im- portant role, that women are wear- ing Spanish hats, that black lace floats from these hats or forms the " wraps with which they are worn, that sleeves that are long or flow- ing form a contrast to sleeves that still reveal almost the entire arm! Now you may read fashion news merely for this sort of diversion. You are wise if you look at the matter subjectively, asking yourself as you of thede departures in dress Wwhat bearing they may helpfully have on your petsonal dress problém. An: ke a literal reading would be . absurd. Just be- crusé one French woman makes a fad of wearing real flowers on her hat, don’t ¢ome to the conclusion that you must consult the florist as well as the milliner about your néw hat. Be- cause the correspondents make a good deal of the fact that some one ap- peared bn !hmu ‘t..h Boulogne wear- As Cold as Toe. g The girl who had the kind of head- ache which responds to nothing but rest and the darkened cool of a room apart from the rush of a strenuous household was dipping cloths into ioe water and holding them sgainst ner forehead. Her mother came softly into the room, and approaching the bed, said: “You are getting the pillow all wet, and the water is running down your neck.” “1 know, but it feels good. Only I know you will think me silly, but the clothes don’t feel ¢old when they touch my head. At least, not ice cold. And there is icé In the water.” “The trouble is,” said her mother, “that the compre: ould be placed direetly on the ice if one would get the actual benafit of them. The water alone, howeveé: cold, fails to impart that stinging sense of cold sens the pain.” The mother was removing the dampened plllow, supporting the girl's aching head, meanwhile, with one hand, while with the other she turned the pillow, and nligpofl [ smooth, soft towel beneath the head to protect the pillow. our hair i led, ¢hild. I must smooth it before the tangles become skirt—and there were a very great| ery of a sleeve that hangs loose from many even among theé smartly dressed | the armhole. who @id not—this means to stand pat Don’t fail to observe that many of 80 far a8 skirt lengths are concerned. | the dressmakers—Lanvin, for . in- The skirt that touches or nearly | stance—are making uise of & “V™ netl touches the toes will be extréeme for line. This does not medn, 8. yoa many months, as it surely is now.|may Dave heard, that th a0 And remember this, if you do decide | boat-shaped n line to indulge in this extreme be sure|This that you select for your long-skirted frock one that is to be well made and obviously smart in other respects. v variety, you may seléct a rather nar- Don’t trust the little dressmaker by | roC€.X5YSn Cn may Be' used off- n" -~ the day with your first very long skirt. It is the easleht thing in the. world | ptherwise Unbroken surface 1aits or tut endency to have this new skirt look dowdy.| 12in™ There are no “to skirt an 1f you don't take care you will look | D15, Shore Bre no seqmp. colder that les; gs If you had gone backward to fash. |pile "trimming on_tn n‘o.‘-%' T My 4 JJust beekuse some - friend in Pa e e orward | omi, it from the bodice. Somet.mnes, things one does in a sick room, such - & when embroidery is used it i{s v orkes | a8 papers that are "writes you that “Every.one in Pa The skirt that is both long and|heavily on thq slesves o1 e ® to rustie in the least 's wearing enormous long skirts” full should mot be selected for alskirt d A R A T S B R RO i 17 don't be entiyely convinced. Remem-|street costume. It s Detter to cling |lft in StriKing stmplicity. e ot 4 ber that one very long bowffant skirt|to the atraight silhouette save for| it you are one. who is- wast o o defined “wihist ht Bere, blue shk. The bed Was freshemeéd, and the flr aching back and arms and imbs sprinkléd with cool, fragrant k e ctins, s B I eri tive, if you find the bateau line up- becoming, or merely as a matter of it was placed on the throbl ‘adhing brow the girl sighed y and pressed it closer with eager fin- 93" dectare” she murmured, “it stocking, don't imagine that Parisians have all gone in for @ piebald effect. lor would' attraes More attention than|indqors and evening. There have been. patiently for a ' more e It ; B Weeks ago that she was troubled with ‘what she called “necklace: ered that she meant four deep lines that ran directly across her neck. These did not make her look old now, she said, as she was only eighteen 4nd scarecly looked that, but she was sure that when she was thirty these deepening lines would add much to her age. |lo ! she slept with a high pillow and whether she wasn't round shouldered. In her reply she answered yes to both questions. The deep lines across her which les- | neck head both when awake and when sleeping. wring it out of hot routid cooled in eréam or O0f warmed Then & with the neek as a pivot she was to roll the head around on the shoulders— | when I took it off to d clothes. But the dutles- and outlook on patriotic vive all the war experience.” side and to the back as she could. This was to be repeated tén or twenty LA olntment and, if possible, to rub the %nd 411 the while there repesed on | SEIR With water as cold as she could get it. sag. will be helped by using an astrin- move this with & warm and moistened | 1] cloth. Apply the astringent ove: throat and iie d , Bivil to dras tho.mn. This Remove the astringent with warm and ol the fold of a curfain there, said ab- stractedly: “The compresses are much colder right off the ice like that. Much cold- el‘gm when wrung out of ice-cold water. Making the Neck Pretty. A young giM wrote me a couple of " 1 discove And very sensibly she wanted get rid of them at once. 1 wrote her & letter asking whether ‘were due to the fact that her was constantly bent forward I advised her to take an old towel, ter and roll it As soon as it had to take it off and rub of flesh-building cold cocoa butter. neck. Vas & quantity forward om her chest, tnent 18, letting it bend as far to each imes, then she was to wipe off the ice; it not, she was to wipe e neck with a cloth wrung from R D, E F— gltning to nt twice each week. The skin should cleansed with & cream. Re-|¢; and while you rest. w up should twenty “minutes. April, 1913, it was the first summer whole summer in what secmed to me & very warm place. change it for,the former routine. thing’ which any woman can remem- ber with pride. and to have alded in the great causes which fell naturally to the lot of woman is an adventure not to be found in ordinary times. 1 devotéd all my time to the wounded .:»Ialers at Walter Reed Hospital, and = o a0 the . following "ncs those days, I have seen life and exercise: . " #Ne was to stand erect and to drop and 80, too, I am quite sure have hun- the head dreds of other women. I b attached to my uniform as a Cross nurse that 1 felt awkward ;l‘ll: Miss Edith ‘Nourse, daughter and. her romance began so long she e:n bareély remember its ot £ri and chil, r face 1 s 3 ;!J‘ etie and French milliner and the American woman buying hats at home. That is, | if frocks and wraps have to be taken with @ grain of salt before they are ready for the An: n have to be taken with two grains. are extremes in hats that never get In the . Public Eye Mrs; John Jacob Rogers BY MARGARET B. DOWNING. Representative Porter of Pennsyl- vania, who is chairman of the House committee on foreign affairs, has re- cently been bereaved of his wite. Through this, Mrs. Rogers, who is the wife of the next ranking member, oc- cupies the role of official hostess of that wing of the legislature which has special soclal obligations toward the foreign diplomatic corps. Mrs. Rogers flled this pleasant role throughout the war, when it was far from being & sinecure, and when dis- tinguished visitors from every part of the world were the official guests of this government. But she seemed to have been prepared for this in a particular, way, since for years it had been the habit of Mr. Rogers to sall away with Mrg. Rogers and pass the entire summer seeking out odd nooks in the world. When Mr. Rogers came. to Congress for the extra ses- sion called by President Wilson in $onemet MRS. JOHN JACOB ROGERS. the old Bay state, tion of the world. — Ostrich Feathers. which he and his wife had missed in ten years devoted to such travel. “I was inclined to think that com- ing _to Washington as part of its of- ficifl world," said Mrs. Rogers. “was not an unmixed blessing when 1 found we would havé to spend the ers for appearanve on this semson’ But looking back | hats. For ostrich feathers have now over the wonderful experiences which have comé, I would not ex-|headgear. all the fushsia tones in ing the years of the war is som celvable tint. They are a veil about the shoulders. ts_obligations in a different light, Honey Biscuits. Came 50 | dinh. 2dd two ounces of sugar. three- fourths ounce of chopped almonds, one egg, one and one-half tablexpoon of honey and one-half ounce of can died lemon peel chopped. and add a pinch of soda. a board that has been xprinkled with ‘To have lived in Washington du -| Redl my regular ervice will, 1 know, sur- other impressions of my Mrs. ers was - ar- = e Pake in a moderate oven. Bread Crontons. ‘ Cut some bread that is slightly dry in slices about an inth thick. ench slice lengthwise and crosswis making cubes about an inch square. Put the cubes of bread In a_shallow pan and place in an oven and brown nicely. These are much daintier than the ofdinary sods cracker. ——e r| To six tablespoons F' fruit juice add two tablespoons of honey, three dy much d:‘:'l‘l’l!. and mr'&.u: -fll:. s{lflerfli’l Divide dnto Glaases and serve. Y TN well know banker of Lowell, gne of those mneighborhoo dships which survive childhood h llrn over into the mellow affec. 16n of married life. She played with preyerit representative as & small d later belonged to many social clubs gwith him. 16th street i Put one-half pound of flour in a Looking at the New French Fashions in a Personal Way MfiWObSE,Advises Women Not to Jump at Ult o i ical Styles Too Quickly—Circular Skirts for Indoors, Silhouette Type s—Loose, Low Waist Line—Forecast of doubt- ms 10 demand ber hat that ihe Prench woman is willing to do with- out if aniy she thinks it is swmart or{tion for Americans, and there cannot he re certain things that will 3 ¥ not be willing to wear hats deeply fringed ai of the world war have been the vice tims. She has also given much time to the subject in the Massachusetts state legislature, with the hope that with its grand revolutionary traditions and heroic to Prof. Strauss, had the same wea deeds, may be among the first to pay every honorable debt assumed When it called Its sons to save the civilisa- ‘What consternatlon would reign in the desert if a supercivilized ostrich should return with plumes dressed in the fashion originated by the millin- sumed first place in the trimming of Not content with blending pompon droops ot with the feathers in their uncurled stage, the milliners have de- signed endless effécts in glycerined and metallized plumes of every con- combined also with the long, graceful fluex of the peacock. or lengthened to fall like Beat well Turn onto I of two | tabl peaches. 3 pe of Spanish hat that shows of black lace or the use of a shell rnament is pretty sure to appeal. @ | of the heavier uses of jet may not beite will imdoubtedly have a strong attriic- {any possible question but that we take like ducks 10 water to the fuc) and violine shades that have aiready well under way in Paris. ON THE LEFT, A SiLK SUIT WITH TRIMMING OF SEAL AND A JET BELT. ON THE RIGHT, A SUIT OF PLUSH FORMED IN SQUARES, Nothing New. ‘FASHIO,\' is not a thing of the m ern world. Fashlon itself is ziot !new and it muy not be doubted if {there is any fashion which is mnew. for there have heen muny fashions that were revivals of fashions so old that human society had forgotten them. In ancient Rome the women painted and powdersd their faces. They had lip sticks. cream for anoint- ing. whitening and softening their skin, and little mirfors which they carried with them. They fought against crow’s-feet and other lines in the face and neck and they were lav- ish in perfumes. Styles in hat dressing were numerous and chang- ing in Babylonia. Chaldea, Egypt, Greece, Rome and Carthage, and the headdress of one generation was out of date in another generation. Prof. H. H. Strauss, head of the department of ancient languages in the University of Arkansas, has sald that in the matter of hairdressing Roman women “even had an arrange- ment closely approaching the ear puffs which the flapper of 1921 affec! The most favored style seemed 10 be a formidable pompadour, which was varied, according to the prevalling mode, with all kinds of intricate and elaborate arrangements of and braide. Faise hair was d to a large extent and there was no scruple against using dye.” Roman women of Yashion, according ness for jewels which modern women have. They had rings of different styles for summer winter wear, bracelets, armiets, earrings and van- the rich Roman lady’ namented with jewels and she wore hair nets made of fine gold thread. The same authority on thé custom of classic Rome tells of the political power of the women. They did not vote, but they made and unmade men in the political life of their country. They campaigned for their favori candidates for office and tablets ha been found eng: with the nouncement that such and ch woman urged you to votc for this that candidste. Almond Green Is New Shade. Almond green is a new shade which is being stressed for fall wear by the French coutourie and the P liners, according 1o rocent from abroad. This shade, it is saf is a very light tint d duplicats that shown in the almond nut. T new color is declared to be most beau- ltiful and effective in velvet and is being used Iu tliose weaves some of the important milliners. 5 { ® Tomato Croquettes. s a or flour, roll thin and cut in rounds.{ put two cups of stewed tomatoss in ia saucepan with a thin slice of salt and pepper, a €O and one table of sugar. Cook for fifteen minutes And then thicken with four tablespoons. of rubbed smooth with a fenerous plece of butter. Let it Loil up and then add one egg. Put the mixture on & plattér to cool. When oold form into any preferred shapes. asd, dip-these firkt in fine bread crumbs, thei in beaten ggs. then again in erambs, and ffv s vich brown in deep, hot fat. Lima Beans and Cheese., To some *white sauce add fowr etip of 2 buttered cup around or merely at one side, but fhe our taste, but jet in some form or other