Evening Star Newspaper, August 14, 1921, Page 59

v Shiny Lacquered Surfaces and Jet Distinguish French Hats | MAUVE FEATHER ON BANDEAU OF AMETHYST. BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. HE milliners, it would seem, need to spend little time studying the fashion plates of 1850 and 1860 for inspiration. You may prate about your Em- press Eugenie and your mid-Victorian clothes and even prophesy that we are gding to return to & period of greater circumspection and decorous- ness along with wider and longer skirts, but you would doubtless be vexed beyond words if your milliner offered you a hat that bore even a re- mote resemblance to the hats that were in vogue when Eugenle encour- aged the mgenuity of milliners in Paris and Victoria frowned upon fash- ion novelties in England. Frankly we prefer almost anything to the hats of our grandmothers. Their quaintness seems prim. What might once have been looked upon as chic and style only seems to us like absurdity and grotesqueness. We would far rather go to China for inspiration. The little round hat, highest in the middle, worn by China- men, has given inspiration for one of the most attractive hats for autumn. Traces of the inspiration of the Rus- sian headdress are still discernible. Every conceivable Spanish hat has been inspected for millinery inspira- tion. The Italian’s bersaglieri, with its drooping cock’s feathers, is close- 1y followed in line and detail. There are evening hats and headdresses that show clearly Egyptian inspiration— Egyptian at least as the stage has in- terpreted that adjective. S But deliver us from the hats of our grandmothers. Possibly there should be one ex- ception. Maria Guy will brave our prejudice. Not yet but very soon. she promises, she will hying out a twentieth-century version of the ama- sone worn by Eugenle in 1860. It seems logical to Maria Guy that if we wear Eugenie frocks we should find Eugenle hats becoming with them. ‘We shall see. A prediction that you hear often iv that if skirts are going to be longes hats will be larger. That skirts are becoming longer—though more grad- ually than you may have expected— is no more a matter of doubt; and the tendency on the part of hats is to increase size. But there can be no doubt. therefore, about it. Perhaps the laws of right proportion would cotanle short skirts with small hats and long skirts with large ones. But even a cursory glance through the history of feminine dress would show the absurdity of this. ‘When skirts were at their widest and longest in Eugenie’s reign women sometimes wore hats that when we unpack them from old garret trunks today look like dolls’ hats. And in the earlier nineteenth century when skirts were short—short and broad— there were hats with wide brims, and enormous outstretchings of feathers. * K K K THOUGH there is undoubtedly some correspondence between dress fashions and hat fashionms, it is not B0 simple as it seems. It cannot be worked out as one would work out an algebraic problem. Just at pres- ent milliners are absorbed in the change .in the trend of trimming. What they call thé high trim is to supersede the droop trim. That is, we shall fan the air with our feath- ors and point toward heaven, instead of sweeping our shoulders. But this change is not very directly related to any change in dress silhouette. In a general way the dress mode and the hat mode are related, they are influenced by the same changes and conditions. Sometimes the milliners take the lead and sometimes the dressmakers. Certainly neither blazes the trail for the other to follow. There is this change—or tendency to change—in the placing of trim- ming, there aré ever so many little novelties in trimmings, there aré new shapes. But in the 'essentials, the features that mark this epoch of hats from those of the nineteen hundreds —— or ‘the eighteen-eighties, there is no change. For hats still fit over our heads. The crown of the hat actually encricles the crown of the head. Moreover, hats are placed still fo: ward on tl head. They still shade the eyes at an angle that would h: looked idiotic or intoxicated to wom twenty yeats ago. Some time, of course, we must wear our hats toward the back of our heads again. The laws of change that characterise fashion—or taste in SURPLISH RED VELVET FLOWER WITH REINESTONE CENTER ON THE FOREHEAD WITH LEAVES OF THE VELVET AROUND THE HEAD. “THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, AUGUST 14, 1921—PART 4 i—. Fuller Lines. URFLE to Be Predo;lating Color This Fall, Says Anne Rittenhouse. Feathers, Strangely Disguised, to Stick Up Instead of Drooping—Eugenie Bonnet May Appear—Headwear Tending to Become Larger as Dresses Follow { BLACK PANNE VELVET TRIMMED WITH JET PAILLETTES AND BEADS, ALSO ORNAMENT OF JET AT EACH SIDE, STUDDED WITH RHINESTONES. ; ABOVE—BLACK PANNE VELVET; THE BRIM FACED WITH FLAT PIECES OF JET AND JET ORNA- MENTS IN FRONT. RIGHT—BLACK SILK BEAVER WITH LARGE ROLL- ING BRIM FACED WITH GRAY FELT-—-FEATHER IN BLACK AND GRAY. ————— e art or manneérs—will éventually lead us back .to the hat worn ‘oi the forehead. But it will tike a brave il £o launch it, braver women to wear it. We like to have.our fore- heéads covered. We like to look out from beneath the brims of ‘our hats. ‘We 11ké to conceal our foreheads and some of our eyebrows. And certainly in the hats put férth for. the coming season there will be not the slightest opportunity to do otherw! Milliners seem to be; pending a good share of their ti inventing some new and intere: sort of trimming. There {s an amazing amount of manipulation in these trim- mings. Feathers we must have. but we are not content to wear them as na- ture made them or as generations of milliners past deemed proper. We must have our peacock and goose feathers burned, our aigrettes stripped. Quills are lacquered or waxed, ostrich is un- ——————————— ‘This is usually of bléck of color 1s always of in considering the hat only. Jet or jade. ‘The question paramount interest ; for women are even more lamblike in following the lead in the colors of their hats than in the colors of their frocks. Always the first crop of hats that appears in late winter or late summer s almost en- tirely in one color. We can all r member seasons of red toques, gray hats, green hats or black and white hats. Tms year there is every chance In favop of the wide popularity of the hat that is purple or purplish red. The lighter range of violine and fuchsia has been played upon for * x % % summér hats. There have been count- less mauve organdle hats. But mauve deaux and Corinth purples. certain well dressed and knowing ones will wear brown. Spain has played a leading role in suggesting the lines of the new hats. True. some designers have gone as free as possible of this Span- ish tendency, feeling perhaps that it would become overpopular. Eut in a season when Spanish influence is ascendant, many a hat that did not set out to be Spanish at all will be likened to the hat of some Spaniard or_other. The thing that’is most gquickly dubbed as Spanish is the use of black lace drapery.- As a child when you learned that the way to.tell a Hol- lander was to look and see whether he wore wooden shoes, you also learned that Spanish women were to be told by their black lace mantillas and large combs. To be sure, the draped lace is suggestive rather of the mil- liners' droop trims than their high trims. But it is persisting none the less. Tricornes were certainly not in- vented in Spain. But most of the tri- cornes are dubbed Spanish. And un- doubtedly one of the hirelings of the bull fight does wear a tricorne. The fact is that hats were first turned up at the side or cocked because the brims had become too wide to be conventent. First they were cocked in one place, then in two and even- tually In three. All these different cockings gave different effects. Men used to indicate the nature of their politics by the way in which they cocked their hats. Usually with the tricorne hat the points come at either side of the front and in back. Following the new ten- dency to make the highest part come | directly in front some of the ‘Dew tricornes are put on in a different way | entirely. 3 Then there are the hundred and one hats in which the brims are slashed somewheretin the front or on the side. Sometimes a pie-shaped piece is cut out of the brim. Almost always the slashing or cutting makes room for some lavish bit of trimming, feathers or_a cabuchon of ribbon. Meantime P;.rl:. seems to have dis- none of her old shapes. She WHI clings to her bretons that fare away from the face on all sides, her caplines, her cloches, her toques and berets. Making “False Fronts” Do you wear false fronts? ‘With your sweaters and coat suits? Most of us_do, nowadays, and we find them's tremendously economical way of meeting the demand for a fresh colldt and “front” always. We cannot, many of us, compass the dif- ficulties of a clean blouse every day. A blouse does not stay clean for very long in warm weather. And laundry bills are prohibitive. 8o we indulge in false front Now of course these cost a good deal if you buy them ready made. That is to say, the best of them cost @ good deal And we all want the best. But they are not expensive to make. You can make half a dozen at the cost of two expensive ready-made ones. That sounds like an exageration. Let's prove it. Suppose you pay six dollars for one ready-made, And that is not a high spend liberally to have our chairs and tables and bureaus “done over with a flat finish.” We take pains that our silver, though spotiessly clean, must not glow too highly with curled, glycerined or metallized. We must be more thar experts to recog- nide the nature of the plumage we ‘wear. INO one but an extremist or a mil- liher's model who had to would elect tb wear a fur-trimimed hat at this season, but among those promised for the autumn are many showing an ingenious use of peltry. Monkey has reinvaded the milliners’ shops as well as the dressmakers’. Flowers, too, are seen on some of the new hats de- signed for autumn. The flower mak- ers still exercise their skill in con- verting velvet and silk Into the sem- blance of real flowers. The colors real flowers they, K seldom possess. ‘There are roses of every color in the rainbow, have roses galore in fuchsia cdlors and in the violine hues. Metallized flowers have also been assured a.| prominent place. It is not the flowers that make any serious pfetensions to lifelikeness that have the strongest appeal. The fondness for waxed and varnished surfaces. in hats has brought out a profusion of flowers with hughly lus- trous surfaces. Just how long this taste #6f highly polished surfaces will last it is' hard to predict. -In one period we cannot gét surfaces that are flat endugh. - This taste extends) to furniture as well ad to clothes ac< repdories. - To have. highly finished furniture is to be vulgar, and we * % % % f | surfaces is and this season we shalljdul the polishing. We have our favorite pictures reframed with flat, ull frames, and send the old highly ished frames to the rummage sale. But we have passed out of the period of flat finishes. We are again enjoying high fights. Instead of hav- ing new wood and wicker furniture merely treated with lusterless stain, we have it painted and then enam- eled. Glaged chintses, despised by two generations gone, are now drawn out of old chests of bought in present- day imitation. Part and parcel with this taste for the highly polished surfaces in house decorations is the taste for varnished surfaces in hats and frock trimmings. And there is little indication that we are to give it up at least for the » resent. Can you marvel that the fashion for jet has come upon us? Combined | ways with the mode for highly polished the present fondness for black. Nothing could bé blacker and mote highly polished than jet. The unpolished jet we leave now, as ever, entirely for the use of those In mourning. 0 Jet bead fringe is also in evidence and there are scores of jet ornaments. Sometimes these are studded with rhinestoné. This produces the same contrast that you gét in combining jét beads with glass beads in néck chains and fringe. At fifst thought you may not like the combination, but it delights the heart of a French woman. Oddly enough, jade 8eems still to be used occastonally in hdt ornaménts, sorhétimés in In several teacted attention thére is a drop earring attached at one 8 combination with black. models that have at< e and lavender are not suggestive of late summer and autumn. Be guarded against this probable vogue for purple and purple-red hat: If you can afford to have enougl hats so that you need not discard one after a few weeks' wearing, if you are so stationed in life that you need never fret lest what you have chosen is also the choice of every other woman you meet, go ahead with your purple hat. It is usually immensely becoming. The purple and purple-red hues are alike flattering to blonde and brunette. ‘The names for these new purplish tones are légion. Besides fuchsia we have Corinth purple, Bordeaux, dahlia, Then there is Ophelia, which is a purplish pink that has been pushed in certaln quarters as a color: for formal or evening hats. It would cer- tainly nevér do for street hats. It is a rule that some milliners declare to be infallible that the color most in demand for autumn Rhats at distinctive and materials. To buy a pattern variations, an do for all your price for one that is of_good quality. ow, start In for Begin with, you can showing four or five one pattern will thus half dozen, for you can vary it little yourself for the extra one or two. embroidery. You will need three- quarters of a yard of it. Suppose it 118 $1.50.2 yard. ~ Three-quarters will be $1.13. For 30 cents you can get enough very narrow iace to edge the little Dutich collar. Thfee-quarters of yard will do. . That's $1.4 Now for $1 you can batiste for two fronts. n make with hemstitched collar and revers. One you can make with imi- tation val edging a ruffled collar, and with strips of val lace crossing the vest front. The val, In good quality, can be bought for 80 cents. That's two more collars for $1.50. Total, so far, the very outset of the season is al-[$3.93. the color that been popular in suits and stréet frocks a season before. The explanation is that most women when théy buy their first au- tumn hat buy !t to go with last sea- son's suit or frock. They buy hats invariably earlier than théy buy asy- thing else. It is not until they buy a second or third hat that they select it to go with new suits or frocks. Whatever you may think of the theoty, the fact is that brown has reappeared {n hats, and brown was, o’ cout the street color of greatest ‘mportance last spring and’ winter. Howéver, many of these hats cer- tainly never were designed for women who have to think about making last season’s frocks and suits do for next, nior- by milliners who have to conecern themselves with this eort of"good mansgement. o may be that whil 18-rest of u::gwnrfi Tans ot o ias, Bor- For one, buy half a yard of the thin pongee that sells for $1 a yard. Hove the frill edges finished with a plcot—25 cents will pay for that. Another collar for 76 cents. For anoth buy half a yard of coarse nét at §1 a yard, and three éc skeins of red floss. Run the édges of the met ruffies with the colored floss, in several thicknesses, to make a heavy border. One collar for $1.68. Now, there are 64 cents left of the $5. The first collar was 31.43, the next two were $1.50, the next was 15 cents and the next 68 cefits. That malkes a total of five collars for $4.36. jpend the rest of th enouglt organdy to make the sixth i collar, and work the hems of the fiat urn over ¢ollar and the--surface of e 1ittle vest with the remainder of the three collars left from thé net Tou can ?’r‘n ke dots er elss & more elaborate mfln The same pie 4 | tensifies the sweetne: et enough | 7 MODEL OF BLACK VELVET TRIMMED WITH FEATHER—LONG, BLACK EARRINCS WITH JADE STONE IN CENTER. colors used on the tweo.collars. won't matter, for by rumming the fet’ with thick blue strands, and just & thread here and there of rose ind buff, for instanct, and using rose and buff for the most part on the organdie, with just a touch here and there of blue, you will get varfety. Good Cool Drinks For Summer Days When there are only one or two lemons on hand, with a large, thirsty family demanding prompt refreshment, why not serve a ‘Truitafie” made by combining different fruit juices with the lemon? A small améunt of lemon is needed to intensify other fruit fiavors,| but almost any slightly acid fruit can| be used as the basis for a good summer drink. It 1s a practical plan to keep one or two bottles of water cooling in the ice box fo dilute fruit juices readily. Charged waters, such as apollinaris or ginger ale, help tp convert a simple “fruitade” into a_“punch” for occasions when a festive drink is appropriate, but the fruit juices, diluted with water only and well chilléd, are very refreshing. | Fruitade Recipe Not Necessary. A special recipe is not necessary to make a fruitade. Any single predom. inant flavor may give it its name raspberry, grape, pineapple or orange: ! often four or five fruits are blende pear juice, pineapple, orange lemon; the juice of blackberries, rasp- berries, currants, blackcaps, grape- fruit, limes and plums can be used in any selected comblnations. Lemon | is necessary (unless llmes are used| for the purpose) to make the @rink ! sufficiently acld to quench the thirst on a hot day. The amount of water added de-; pends somewhat on the kinds of fruit used, ‘and also on the preference of the “taster.”. A preponderance of very acid juices—lemon or lime—will stand more dilution than the milder fla- vors. Ip general one part of water to one of mixed fruit juice can tried at first, and more water added if it seems desirable. Tea may be substituted for about one-third of the ‘water if the punch is made for adults; if children are to have any, it 1s better to.omit the tea he individusl taste must be the guideéfin sweetening. Sugar should be added to fruit drinks in the form of sirup, to get the best effect, as well, as to use it in the most economical way. Two parts of sugar to one of water should be simmered.for five minutes and then cooled before adding to the other ingredients. Sugar sirup can be prepared for several days at aj time, and kept bottled in the re- frigerator; left-over fruit julces may also be boiled with sugar and kept in a cold place for short d])brlod! until one has enough on hand to make up a good fruitade. A thin slice omtwo of orange and lemon, some chopped bits of pineapple and banana, a few colorful berries, invite attention to the bowl or pucheri of punch, and a sprig of mint both flavors and completes it. Professional caterers often include a slice of cu- cumber. When a fruit -punch must be prepared for a large gathering of people—a dance, a sociable or a pic-| nic—it is helpful to have exact in- gredients specified. About forty per-, sons can be served by the following | recipe. which 18 recommended by the | experimental Kitchen. Department of Agriculture: Fruit Punch.—One can grated pine- apple, three cups boiling water. one cup freshly made strong tea, julce of six lemons, juice of ten oranges, one- fourth teaspoon salt, one quart'grape. currant, loganberry. raspberry or; strawberry julce, two pint boptles apollinaris or ginger ale, two pounds | sugar. boiled with one quart water, for five minutes. Ice to cool. t Cook the pineapple for twenty min- utes in the boiling water.and strain. Cool, 2dd the remaining fruit juices. |and its annals ar WC AEN in the Public Eye Mrs. Larz Anderson BY MARGARET B. DOW Mrs. Larz Anderson has filled & varlety of roles since she came 1o Washington, just after her marriage to a well-known member of the diplo- matic corps, Larz Anderson of Cin- cinnati, a cousin of Representative Longworth and successively minis- ter to Belglum and ambassador to NG. Japan. Recently in her book, “Presi- dent and Pies,” she proved a pleasant chronicier. who enter- tain and amuse w ceedingly useful information. One of the principal heirs of the enormous fortune made by Commo- dore Weld of Boston in _seafaring pursuits, she has employed a_ royal income in a way to challenge the ad- iration of the country. Weld, her ome in Brookline. Mass. is one of he famous country seats in the state, more frequently made up of philanthroplc activities than of fashionable functions. Long be- fore the war spurred on the owners of ile imparting ex- magnificent homes in Great Britair to give them over to civic needs, the mansion and park at Weld werr peopled all through the summer witt ailing women, to whom such an out ing meant renewed strength and R e M0 Tana Mrs. Lars Anderson on Massachusetts avenue in Washington is one of the stateliest in a region of splendid mansions. For MRS. LAREZ ANDERSON. the sentimental reason that the meet- ing of this happlly wedded pair took place in an Italian villa outside of Rome, many of the features of that dwelling have been reproduced. Throughout the war it was a head- quarters of the Red Cross, and the sewing classes gathered,among beau- tiful souvenirs of many years abroad. " Mrs. Anderson established and main- the tes, and the cooledgsirup. It is better to make the puncita few hours ahead and let it stand closely cov- ered on ice to chill and ripen. At serving time add the apollinaris, gin- ger ale or water to dilute to the strength desired. Garnish with thin slices of fruit and mint leaves. Salt Intensifies Flav: ® will be noticed that a little salt 18 called Yor in this punch. A “sus- " of sait, as th -ench say, in- and the flavor of any fruit drink. Blackbefry juice combinéd with lemon and 2 few grains of salt is recommended. Canned pineapple juice appeals to the whole; One might be made of all-over|family. but it needs a dash of lemon to give pungency. Orange juice is! desirable in children’s diet, but it should not be limited to the children. There are many deliclous drinks to! be made with orange juice as a ba a|The fresh oranges must, of course, be used. Commercial orange flavor will ot answer the same purpose. Grape Juice may be canned at home for ufe in beverages. It is particu- larly refreshing combined with lime juice and diluted with an equal amount of carbonated water. Logan- berry juice, which has a fine flavor similar to raspbérty, is commercially bottled in the west. The housewlife who can get loganberties may well can some of this excellent fruit juice for home use. Nutrition specialists!sponse. of the Department of Agriculture point out that fresh fruit drinks. especially those made from grape juice and the varfous citrus fruits, are important for children because they supply vitamines. A pitcher of orangeade 6r lemonade or grape punch, therefore, is not a mere gratifi- cation, but a real contribution to the s Orange or Peach Fritters. Orange or peach fritters are nice to h roasts, especially with cold roasts. Péel and seed Some oranges, taking off all the white fiber possible. ut them across is m:dllr‘-lnn slices, dust with powd: uy dip in batter ahd fry & gich brown, sprinkle with pewdersd sugar serve. tained the canteen in the Union Sta- tion, giving personal service as long as she could. then turning the work over to capable hands. She spent some months in Paris in organising canteens for the front and served there until the armistice. When Mr. Anderson was minister to Beigium, his wife became a_close friend and confidante of the heroic queen, then the crown princess, who was in this country in 1919. This queen, as all the world knows. is the daughter of one of the most famous oculists of Europe and studled under him. She had a private clinic in the poorer quarter of Brussels, where she treated freely all sufferers who were unable to pay the usual fee, and in this activity she found a generous and sympathetic friend in the wife of the American_envoy. During the queen’s visit to Washington the An- derson home was one of the few pri vate homes which she shonored Mrs. Anderson’s benefsctions in Boston would make a long list. A seamen’s home, completely endowed and supported on the most practical basis, is her memorial to her grand- father, who was one of the last of the merchant princes whose wooden sailing vessels encircled the gilobe with American commerce. All benevo- lence which has the seamen for an object finds in her a generous re- She Is a member of the Naval League in Washington and of the nu- merous societies which fit up homes or which sew for widows and ophan of the sajlors. She s a friend of the liberal arts and her purses and scholarships are well appreciated In many schools throughout the country. Mrs. Anderson possesses a particu- larly retiring and reticent person- ality. . Nothing distresses her more than a narration of her good deeds. hence only the most munificent of them become known. Water Popovers, Beat two cups of flour and one cup bs oold water together; add one cup of mifk and beat with egg beater untfl the mixture is full of bubbles; divide into hot gem pans and.. bake in a hot oven.