Evening Star Newspaper, August 7, 1921, Page 55

Simplicity in T rimmings the Latest Mode in Summer Frocks (g5 Y i g BLACK TAFFETA EMB BY ANME RITTENHOUSE. HE way that trimming is ap- plied. quite as much as the trimming itself. or the line of the frock on which it is ap- plied differs with the years and as the mode of women's clothes slowly changes and modifies. Sometimes the decoration depends entirely on the design of the material, sometimes on the material together with the intricacy of the garment it- self. Often oriental costumes could be described thus. The Japanese woman gets the decorative effect in her clothes by the interesting fabrics from which they made, by the folds of one kimono over another, the lines of the obi The addition of sashes, boleros. aprons and petticoats makes for the decorative effect of the whole in the European peasant cos- tum Again trimming is applied all over the frock in the form of braiding, ruffles. flounes and frills. This was one of the characteristics and the great fault of the costume of the mid- Victorian _period. Flounces were trimmed with ruffies and ruffles with ruchings. Panels were edged with bands of material and the bands were further decorated w:th ro £ braid. What of the modes of toda The lines themsclves are extremely have little interest in that show boleros and s. flounces and such intrica- | We like best the frock that is | and constructon. We still avoid placing the bulk of the trimming on the very places that we used to regard the only suitable places for trimming. The simple line of the bateau neck is left without frill or flounce. collarette or bertha. Often | the front of the bodice is straight and | unadorned. We have little use for| the tucks and gathers, shirrings and plaits that used to be an essential cles. simple of lin A3 ROIDERED IN WHITE. to the effectiveness of the front of a bodice. * ¥ %k MONG the trimming detalls that persist is fringe. True, there are some women who are definitely done with it, at least, they say they are; but the designers have managed to apply it in a new way and with new effect. They may be tempted back to it again in spite of the over popu- larity that it has recently endured. Nowadays over popularity of a style or a trimming detail does not actually seem ever to ruin it. For the time it puts it in a trying position. but the very fact that it has become popular shows that it has some real ground of appeal. The clever deslgners simply wait until it has run its course in the production of cheaper clothes, then revive it in new and pleasing guise, depending on and knowing full well that discrimiating women never aban- doed a good style just because it had been worn by the many. For the difference in the fringes that have worked themselves to the ground and the ones that are new and interesting is that the latter are often irregular in length, and they are often made of beads or a medley of bright- colored beads. Steel beads are also used in fringes, alone or combined with bright colored ones. * * k % ET has been in the offing of fashion for some seasons. The designers have not pushed it. seemingly know- ing that if they kept it before the eyes of women by occasionally pre- nting it on a frock or as trimming to a hat they would come to it of their own accord. And now there is every indication that it will be in high esteem for the coming season. The younger women who wear it may never know just how strongly sug- gestive jet once was of all that was out of fashion. It was mentioned | with horse-hair sofas. If you ever! knew any one who actually did have| I i 1 THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, 'AfiG‘U’ST 7, 1921—PART 4 A NNE RITTENHOUSE Says the Old Flounces and Ruffles Have Gone, But Beads and Fringe Still Persist—Jet to Be in Vogue Again—How, When and Where to Wear Artificial Flowers—A New Way With Embroidery—Cleverly | Trimmed Skirts of the Season. I | S ODD COAT MADE OF BLACK GROSGRAIN RIBBON. summer in France, the straw and and spectacies who persisted in wear- flower hat being perhaps more in| ing artificial flowers? And. of course evidence there among well dressed | the danger always comes when flow - women than in many seasons past.|ers are in vogue that they will be e But the French woman has too muchi | worn by the red-nosed and the spec AT RIGHT: BLACK SATIN FROCK—THE BODICE AND SKIRT DRAPED AND TRIMMED WITH VARNISHED LACE. S ey .’.Z';i%‘f.."‘h}i”.e’é'."&“i"é‘ e [ Py ey e ey a horsehair sofa in a parlor that was only opened for weddingssand fune- rals and & corner what-not that har- bored the stuffed eanary, then . she probably had a best dress trimmed with jet that she wore on joccaslons. There was a jet yoke which.was plas- sleeves was broken by this elabora- tion of handwork. Now—perhaps be- cause of the higher coxt of handwork —the that is too stout. Like fringed frocks. beaded georgettes were their obvious choice. Glass beads were not the choice of the hour. Steel beads worked on heavier fabrics of black or dark blue are in good repute and jet on white is French ~ dressmakers design frocks where a modicum of handwork effect. [ will make the ereate Geometrical figures t ower-wreathed hats or flowered frocks save in her vouth. Do you remember how Wagner. writing when in England almost three-quarters of a century ago to his wife, Minna, expressed his ror of English women with red noses should und should not wear flowers, real and artificial. Women tucked their flowers in their belts. They adorned the front of thelr blouses with them and once in a while were allowed to place a flower or 8o in the tered "along the upper paft of the|also in evidence. The demand in bead|the motive 1or trimiming: hair. Now we wear roses to catch front of the bodice, a part of the|decorations as in other embellish- | frequently the cmbroidery or bead-|up the puffings on a skirt, place one frock that was regarded as the fit |ment is that it should be striking|ing applied in graduated circles or|at the back of the belt or wear real and proper place for the preponder-|rather than intricate. The effort now | squares or oblongs is more effective|ones as wreaths on hats. ance of all trimming. One - rarely trimmed the back of frocks in these seems to be to use every bit of trim- minz definitely and strikingly and to than the most intricate copied orien- tal or peasant design. GRAY SILK CREPE TRIMMED WITH LACE IN THE SAME TONE—THE FEATURE OF THE FROCK IS THE GIRDLE OF GUN METAL and fast conventions as to where we WOMEN The idea in artificial flowers now is not primarily to make flowers that ter- | be in this class. but remember that there are varied trimmings and in- teresting ones for the woman of thirty years and more. It is always better to have your husband wish you would wear flower-trimmed hats than to have him wish that you would not Though just eighteen. she made her formal debut over a year ago. at w ball and promenade concert which furnished history’ for such events in Pittsburgh and =et a standard noi days. It would have seemed like|make contrast between the plain un- * * % * 2 ¢ v ! often reached. Though her father hins Tuthless waste of materials. - Indeed. | broken surfaces of the frock and the R e O o:"cfilffi,‘t‘fih‘m‘,'f {2 handsome dwelling in the city it would have seemed almost indécent. | part trimmed. Again and again we A rose placed on the belt at the right | JOWers MACS, oF WOOG oF ofleoth, Tos Ill Ihe | proper, Miss Mellon has always pre- These jet trmmings. yokes and,find among the new things bodices or left side of the back—on two | merely suggests a design for a new | ferred the country seat at Sewickl bandings were expensive ‘They were | left severely plain. drawn up With-ior three of the new frocks—attracts | bit of sdofmment. Erait; too, is made . where a number of horees. a fine decr- treasured when the o brics o e and | LU, “,niPple to form the bateau neck-|.ttention through the sheer novelly |of every conceivable material for use tcundianh fpeperal imsnall Moks IRape out, they were carefully mended and|line white the contrasting trimming | of ‘the’ position. There is no £ood |on hats, and both frult and flowers u 1C y € |iempe s S s put’ back on best dresses when the|comes in the lace or embroldered net | Leuson Wiy we shouid swear flowers | oF fabric With wax of varnion. acs One reasan that she has not en- Silk had to be washed in beer to bring | slecves reaching to the tp of the | (ele" nor”any curthiy reason why | Hiehe the milliners. Joved Washington ~more was her puclkiitsipciatine blackn > ngers and in the drapery on the|ywe shouldn't. There used to be hard| Flowered hats have been worn this -paraticn from iiene i anfins gal were we of the brew im those|skirt. | Miss Ailsa Mell 1e in the capitai which would ap- days. * % % % -viss Allsa /Mellon cal to her would be one in the sub- There is no longer any doubt that jet trimming and jet jewelry will play a leading role in the coming fashion. * k kX EMBROID):}RY merely for the sake of embroidery is passed and gone. It is a mark of discrimination to FOR evening there are many clev- erly trimmed skirts. The side drapery of lace and net is found in the straight-line frock, while on the bouffant skirts garnishings of ostrich and artificial flowers appear. These MANNEQUINS BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. avoid the embroldered frock unless it is well done. There have beem too many cheap imitations, too wide a popularity for the bright colored woolen embroideries on dark frocks. But where a distinct effect can be gained, where the embroidery is of real merit, then it is employed to ad- vantage. There is a species of glass- beaded frock that has worked itself to the ground. You might have thought that the difficulty of wear- ing beaded frocks that had to be re- paired frequently in order to keep the beads in place would have kept them from being the cholice of the many, but there was something about them that appealed strongly to women of this country. Always a fashion that tends to make one look slender has its appeal to the half of womankind HOME NURSING AND HEALTH HINTS BY M. JESSIE LEITOH. A Heel Ring. After Mrs. Brown had Leen in bed for some weeks, haviny suffered a painful fracture, she began to experi- ence little shooting pains in her heel. It sounded foolish, so she refrained from mentioning it. Then the pain became quite marked. She was conscious of it most of the time ,and so she said something about it to the doctor who was doing his best to see that she got all the comf possible in the lomely little Bhl:{f town that fringed clvilisation and ern prairies. “I hope you're not going to get a pressure sore there,” he said. “Na. ture hasn't been matter of flesh as to your husband. He smiled as he spoke at the big fiorid, good-natured man who hung anxiously around the little bedroom. Wife's Mother Expectéd. “Her mother is coming to stay with us,” said the stout man. “I was keep- ing it for a surprise, but I reckon she’ll get along tonight on the local that passes the tank over on the new railroad. I'm going over now to watch for the train. She will know what to do for that sore heel as well as that broken leg. And the plump Mr. Brown started rather heavily toward the door. Man- like, having seen surprised tears of joy in his wite's eyes, he had turned away from them, because he did not know what to say. But the doctor was thinking less of the impending visit than of the heel which he was examining. There was & red spot on it and the woman winced as his firm, kindly fingers pressed céntly on’ the flesh about it [3 MMAUVE CREPE G! THE EORGETTE TRIMMED WITH SKIRT AND NARROW BANDS OF PICOT RIBBON. . WIDE BAND OF SILK ON trailed rather wanly across the west-- skirts contrast with the others that show not one break from the waist line to the bottom of the hem. Paul Poiret has conceived an evening frock ‘with straight gathered tulle. full and almost to the toes, that billows out in a graceful curve from girdle down- ward. Lace and embroidered net are used to make the sleeves, which are usually loose and flowing. They are used again to form the side drapery of the skirt, usually hanging below its hem. ‘When embroidery or beading of any sort of applique work is applied to the material of the frock it is applied daringly, in large medallions or wide borders, in contrast to an_ unbroken surface. Once we sent to France for lingerie frocks, so-called. that were a mass of tucks and lace insertions. The entire surface of skirt, waist and Change of Position. “Frequent changes cf position, to re- lieve pressure on bony prominence, make it possible to avoid these pres- sure sores,” he said. “Not that you've got one yet,”” he added quickly, seeing the woman's look of alarm. you're thin, you know. and it's a weary business lying In bed with a splint on. 80 we shall just make a littel ring of cottonwool to ease up the pressure on this heel. And when your mother comes ghe will know how to ease those aches and pains. Women are Hke magicians in ickroom, die- covering the weariness of those who m“e to-lie in bed.’ The doctor was tying a thick piece of catton batting into a small ring as he spoke. He wound this with a piece of bandage. The result looked like a bl‘.lwhflo doughnut made of cotton wool. Having rubbed the woman's heel well with a lotion he took from his satchel, and which was very cooling and smelled like witch hasel, he pow- dered the ring generously with stear- ate of sinc, then placed the woman’s heel in the ring. Thus the weight of her foot eased its pressure on her poor thin heel. And the thing called a pressure sore was avoided. “Sometimes the elbows and even the back’ of your ears are troublesome when you have to lie long in bed in one position,” he explained. “And your back usually gives trouble at the base of the spine. But we anticipatea that with that. rubber air ring.” The woman smiled. “The air ring unadr'nn back is fine.” she said. “As long as it fsn't full of air.” The .doctor nodded.- ‘“They should never be over-in ,” he said.. “Just enough air in them to make one rest aomfAriably oom them” _ r In the days of Louis XV and Louis | XVI, the days of the scandals and lux- BY MARGARET B. DOWNING. Rather a heavy burden rests on the young shoulders of Miss Alisa Mellon, AND STYLES. daughter of the Secretary of the Treasury and the chatelaine of his home. As official rank goes, Miss Du Barry, and others of their tribe were frequently the arbiters of fash- ion, but it was as virtual consorts of the king that they exercised their au- Mellon would come immediately after uries and rements of the court of Ver- the wife of the Secretary of State sailles, it was Marie Antoinette or one of the princesses who wore a mnew mode for the first time, who wore the clothes that settled debatable ques- tions of dress and Initiated new col- ors.- To be sure the Pompadour, and thority in fashion. You might have said that women's fashions emanated from the throne. Now, if you want to see the new fashions, if you want to see the modes that break away from the old and blaze the trail for the new, you must watch the mannequins in Paris. The women of position in France never, or seldom, take up with the new modes until they have been tried out. That is why, though we know that long skirts are coming and coming rapidly, we see every day that the long skirts are worn only by the mannequins, and that the conservative women, the women of soclal distinction, wear shorter, straight-line frocks. It is a curlous situation. Of course, the real fact is that the mannequins as individuals have nothing to do with it. The dressmakers send them out, dressed in clothes that are as yet re- garded as extremes. Just at present the skirt that decor- ously comes within two or three inch- es of the ground and the sleeve that covers the arm {s regarded as the ex- treme, while the dress that shows the calf of the leg and the entire arm is the conservative mode, preferred by the socially elect, though they know that before long they will be wear- ing the longer-skirted, longer-sleevad mode. It is for this reason that we some- times receive divergent reports from France. Those who have seen the i dressmakers’ models at the races and the others who are not unwilling to exploit the new mode do not hesitate to say that all Paris has taken to the new long skirts and long sleeves. ‘While those who have met women of a more conservative type, women us- ually of social prominence, might truthfully make the statement that for day-time wear the short, straight- lined skirts were preferred. Conservatism {s just as much a characteristic of fashion as fickle- ness. In fact, it is the conservatism, ) often unexpected and inexplicable, of the women who ultimately dictate fashion that causes the dressmakers most anxiety. It was a fact that no sane dressmaker would have ques- tioned eight months ago that skirts were going to become longer and sleeves wider and longer. It would have been folly, however, to have launched this type of frock at that time. ¢ The long, wide sleeve has been ac- | for its pleasant duties. But a well established and always enforced rule 1 | MISS AILSA MELLON, Daughter of the Seeretary of the Treasury. (Photo Ly Bachrach.) and hence. though the department of finance is second of the executive creations, its chatelaine will be placed below the wife of the Secre- tary of Labor, Mrs. Davis. But this lon; in fact she is rather diffident about filling the sccial role at all and in Plttsburgh ch ti | ceptea more quickly than the long, | Shemam 28 TUCH aenington. wide skirt. Many frocks that can| “Wwashington recalls another young well be called smart show the mew sleeve with a skirt at least ten inches from the ground. The sketch shows a frock of this and inexperienced girl who was call- ed to pla; to Miss Mellon—Miss Nona McAdoo, who acted as her father's hostess sort—interesting not so much as an|until his marriage to President Wil- indication of what the designers think | son’s daughter. Miss McAdoo also the women are going to want, but of | was keenly apprehensive, but fitted ‘what nao :1:}‘ dr:c;b( J‘oymm ‘;1 we:{- neatl; TE = N ‘WELD- | ing an undout 1y continue to|came. 58 on possesses a flower- ED mmm‘rh A%HBEIRAECK EM- | wear for several months. It is here|like type of beauty and, though she BROIDERED DRAGON FLIES, AND | developed in whil is an enthusiastic horsewoman and WHITE HAT SHOWS AP-|black satin with & excellent hand at golf, she has THE L. % UE . TRIMMINC of black dragon ‘flies to break the|the fragile appearunce produced by 5“"’3 G S PIACE line or black .;"lnn! ‘white, Hght brown hair and soft biu- :ves. ‘WHITE CREPE GEORGETTE AND BLACK SA' prospect does not displease Miss Mel- | urbs, where she uld follow the life she delights in, visiting and tending her pet horses, galloping over coun- try roads with her larger dogs and having a big flower garden for enter- tainments. And to find these attrac- tions with a suitable and not too re- mote house is occupying much at- tention of the Secretary of the Treas- ury. AMiss Mellon has trained carefully for social duties. She is fond of mu- sic and the study of the languages. when the boudoir cabinet is aligned | Though she has formed no definnite plans for next winter, she will fall into line with other cabinet hostesses and keep her aays at home. Fo nately for the strangers in official society, the wife of the Secretary of State guides their activity and ad- vises what they should do or leave undone. Miss Mellon will, however. enjoy a dual advantage. for she will rank as a cabinet hostess and again as the daughter of a cabinet officer. and in this latter attractive circle under the present administration will be the ranking lady. Miss Flora Wilson, who acted for 0 many years for her father, the late James Wil- son. who was Secretary of Agricul- enjoved a simflar privilege. esident Harding's cabinet is par- ticularly favored with young and charming girls. The Secretary of State and Mrs. Hughes have two, one a graduate of Vassar and the other still studying at Cathedral School. The Secretary of Agriculture has two daughters who are active in the social world, and the Postmaster neral has a pretty young daughter, Miss Margaret Hays, who will spend next winter in Washington. Of this compuct little group Miss Mellon. by reason of ucling as her father's hustess, will Le the acknowledged Livader. e y into her part when the time | ooked eggs cut in dice. Sti Tomato Butter Pie. i Tomato pie is usually made by fill- {ing & crust with ordinary tomato butter. To make the tomato butter, peel and cut the tomutoes into halves and press out the seeds. To twenty five pounds of tomatoes allow eight pounds of apples, pared, cored and Quartered. Weigh the whole mixture and to each pound al'vw helf & pound of sugar and the juice of half a lemgn Boil the tomatoes and the appies e at this capital is that an unmarried | gether, stirring carefully until you womuan cannot rank above a matron, | have a thick, smooth paste. Ada the sugar and the lemon juice. Boil for twenty minutes and it will be ready to can for future use. Parisian Salad. Cut in very small pieces three cold ooiled potatoes and the same quan- tity of cold beets and celery. Mix the yolks of four hard-cooked eggs with two tablespoons of anchovy the same part which falls|gauce, rub through a sieve and grad- ually udd four tablespoons of olive oil, one tablespoon of mixed mustard, two tablespoons of vinegar or lemon juice, two pinches of salt, a lfttle black pepper and the whites of the ir all well together and serve. e — s Very smart is the immense square sleeve, which is equally 'interesting 5 fze und evining gowns.