The evening world. Newspaper, September 30, 1922, Page 16

See the 1922Bu Stripes and Blocks and Plaids Are Taking the Place of Plain Ma- terials in New Fall Models. By Margery Wells HAT shall I wear now—this first cold day? That is the big and all-absorbing question in almost every girl's life Well, now, look at the frocks on this page. They are all new, all eminently suited to us and the work we have to do in the world. They mre not in any way extreme, and still they have that indefinable something New anti fresh and charming about them. There ure your little white collars and cuffs applied in a new way, on a new dress. There Is your favorite collar arranged in an original manner. There is a coat which will make you look about as usual, except that you ‘will be different und smart and up-to- date in the ways of fashion. Now the streets are full of these new clothes. Long skirts—that ts, longer ones—long sleeves, sometimes flowing. fullness and breadth at every conceivable point. You do want to be in the swim, @on’t you? Well, study the fashion able things and meet them as far as you want to. There Is lots of leeway. You can have about what you want You needn't do anything that goes against your own better judgment But you can be smart, and by so doing you will take on a new lease of life for a new and cooler season, How Col.ars and Cuffs Are Evo ‘uting. If you are the sort of girl who glo- ries in wearing nice, clean collars and cuffs; if you don’t mind the terrors of the wash bow! and the ironing board to keep them in that condition; if the end pays you for the trouble you put into it, then this season as well as the last and theyones that went before in your young life, you can have the same sort of dress to give the same sort of satisfaction. Only this year the collars and cuffs are more hand made and more beauti- ful than they have beef in a long time. They have taken their tone from the lingerie dresses of the sum- mertime which were so exquisitely done with hand touches, and they are made of bits of organdie with other bits of lace, of embroidery and of applique, The fact is that in many instances the collars und cuffs muke the Yresses. For the frocks can stil! be very plain with these white edges used to make them notable and to give them a change from day to day, or from week to week. But the dresses themselves, instead of being made entirely of plain ma- terials, are now taking a hunch to be done in stripes and blocks und plaids. and even in figures wien the pattern is very indefinite. So, you see, there 1s a whole new variety to choose from, and still the dress remains, in its elements, the same thing which you have grown ac customed and which you have learned to love because it suits your every pose. The Coat Dress for Street and Office Wear. There is nothing like the blue serge. Every girl knows that. You may read volumes about the new styles in all directions and then you find your self hunting about to find what are the new serge dresses. You realize fylly that you might just as well be a needle lost in a hay stack as a girl in > New York without a serge dress, Now in one of the pictures on this page there is a new serge done after the manner of the coat dress about which all the world of fashion ts rav- ing this season and just at this time of the year. The frock opens all the way down the left side and then it is faced’ with a printed silk which shows conspicuously, as the wide rever turns rr RIGHT—THEY ARE CARRY- ING COQUE FEATHERS IN- TO THE MAKING OF MUFFS AND ARE BUILDING HATS TO MATCH. LOW-—COQUE FEATHERS ALMOST COVER SHAPE OF A_LITTLE TAUPE VELVET TOQUE. back at the throat and back of the neck This is an awfully becoming sort of thing for a girl to have. And If you happen to be that other-girl who ~ loathes the prospect of washing col- lars and cuffs, then this Is just the pe of dress for you. You will find that the printed silks are gqne-of the high lights In the fashionable trim- mings of the season, and you will also find that the wearing of them gives all kinds of satisfaction in the way of showing you up at your best. There is something about the soft- ness of the colors which gives a pleasant glow to your face and, if you choose your colors mightily, brings out the beauty of your own com- plexion. The Short Coat That Is Separate. Another separate short coat is shown in the Illustration, It ts of a very gray knitted material that shows spots of red on a tan surface. You can see that it 1s full and-loose and that it takes a most Interesting line when it hangs open, just as it does when it is closed tightly under the thr This one is trimmed vith fur, Many of them are, And that, of course, gives to the little Jacket thing warmth that makes it very satisfactory to wear until the weather comes along with too great a frosty snap in the air. In Paris they are wearing these little coats with the one-piece dresses and at all the openings they were shown in various colors and shapes and designs, They are the newest thing that can be had, and if you like a coat of this character, then do have one, for now is your chance. One nice thing about the short coat is that it allows more of your one- piece dress to show. And usually those dresses are #0 good looking that it seems a shame to hide any bit of them from the gaze of the general public. The coat can merely match the dress in general coloring—that is all thet is needed—and then when it swings back, the vision is of 1 com plete dress, nearly always quite sim- ply designed, with the frame of the coat helping it to get over its best effect THE EVENING Hats Are Swamped With Coque Feathers By Janet Winslow. HERE is usually a coque featherfeather dangling from the brim of the It 1s about’ as per- fect a trimming as can be found and among all the somewhere about when it comes to the millinery and accessories of any season. But this year there js more than just that little sugges- tion, There are coque feathers everywhere to be seen. They are using them for hats—yes, whole hats, Just you see tn the pictures on this page. Then they are putting them on hats for trimming and, not being content with all of that, they are add- ing them to dresses for trimming and turning them into muffs and fans and anything else destined to be a decora- tive accessory to a costume. For the trimmings of hats, perhaps the coque is most appreciated, for it has that quality of drooping over the side and curling about the neck un- til, all by Itself, without, it seems, the least help from the hat itself, it becomes the frame for the face and the trimming for the hat all at the same time, Now with these new dresses and their plain necks there is every use in the world for something that carls about the neck and relieves the line there, which is often too harsh when it is unadorned. Some girls wear fur for thia purpose nad then others in- sist upon having a separate scarf to twine about the neck. But then, for others there ts the hat with its droopy trimming, and when you have one like this which is well done, why you don't need another thing around your neck. The effect is just right as it is. There is nothing that supplies that droop and that caressing look about the throat more than does the coque ’ AAA SAAGALAYYYYYY turned-down hat. When masses of the coque feather muff, then it can be carried on dressy occasions with the greatest effect in tho world. graceful, it gives one something to do one's hands and sort of flirtatious picturesque in one’s clothes. You do to sit nearly so demurely when you have a muff to fling about or to stroke with one hand or to hold Janguidly in your lap when nothing else Interesting seems to be happen- Tt ts fluffy, it is it supplies a As it is with the muff in the day- is with the coyue feather It is a plaything to to give you something to occupy yourself with in again, the colors of the coque make it suitable to be carried with all sorts fan for evening. one wears about Also the depth of the against a lighter simple variety something to be delighted in and fails to make the sting effect. ‘There is another and a very prao- tical {dea about the coque feather fan or a muff made things that in the evening. trimmings after ephemeral accessory has ended. For ' they never pass away from favor and those that are masse in a muff or spread out into the shape in seasor® to fashion’s most hat trimming Handmade Touches WORLD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 1922, On the Newer Gowns XPERTS on fashion are telling us that it is not so much the change of style that counts the change in detail. And you cannot help but notice this fact as y« bro’ #8 around among the late vu st things that have been shown for fall and winter wear. Embroideries are rampant. They nre done in all colors and in large masses, They are used for coats as well as gowns, and they go along with furs for trimming, The two fur and embroidery—in ct are lappy and a usual combination a of trimmings to which the coat as well as the frock is subj Handmade flowe of ribbons and laces, of metal and colored taffetas fre as much in the running a8~a Wether form of trimming. for 1 ny D- stance, there was a black velvet dress made on as simple lines as any that ve been popular for the past eca- sons except for its rounded and .ong- er hanging sides. It had straps over the shoulders made of at folded taffeta flowers in colors verging ‘10m pale blue to cheery red, with gold and yellow and j le green in betwoen. Then at the middle of the low waist- line in front there was a rosette these very same flowers repeated a: from that point long streamers of nd of. partially metalized narrow ribbons were streaming in long lengths th ached the hem of the gown. LEFT—THE TUNE THAT THE ONE-PIECE DRESS IS PLAYING THIS YEAR. BELOW—FACED WITH +A BRILLIANT SILK, THE SERGE DRESS COMES FOR- WARD IN A FRESH DESIGN. R1IGH T—THE SHORT, BRIGHT-COLORED COAT |S ONE OF THE NEWEST NOTES OF THE SEASON'S COSTUMES. for being and the most {n- same thing f n be used over for hat of the more accepted net HE beaded bag is something that looks intricate enough, but which, {f you ave clever, 1s really simple enough of achievement and if {t cannot be done in one eve- ning, then possibly two of concen- trated effort will finish the problem. ‘The potnt ts that first you maka a g of the shape desired out of a foundation of jen cloth. Tho color is good and always satisfac y {f you make it gray, elther Hight or dark Now over the surface of the bag, before you have sewed the ses ns, you proceed to arr 1 series of little loops of steel beads, each loop being about @ half an inch In Itngth You can sew these close together or you can arrange them at distances tar apart, but always they should ne made of equal lengths to shit your own fancy and be er h 80 that they will not because they are unculy long If you do a gray bag in a sort of teel shade and the oops in steel bead end very much the rocheted bi little n in the is that you ¢ ‘ t thing in an evenir that you will obt ¢ that will make all your ft i lat A bag with da lue found tion with iridescent biue | vn onto its surface What You Can Make in an Eve By Ada Newcomb. ing almost any costume, ‘The is the black bag with jet b plied. That 1s good, too, beo its universal suitability, You can vary this idea, if it, until you have a bag to m most every gown, And yor doubtiess, be so fascinated work that you.will want to into the business of making tl your friends in other of you moments, —— ie The Evolution Of the Cape Ta HE French designers a TT making ospse—s arta them in fact. They broidered and fur-trimmed. lined in lavish ways. They are with bandings of contrasting In fact, thev are no longer ¢ strips of material thet ihey But this Parisian sancti cape idea decides the fact tl Gf this sort will still be worm who like them through the ® A cape from one of th ss has Chines embrd over its surface and 1s then with a wide collar o* fuse one has appliqued moe naking up a design runnin entire surface Still and holds Its lining as its plece ance, for that is a bri rainst a purple velvet Others of them are lined wi marabou, and each one Unt law unto itself tn t design, although its Une strictly to the laws luid general fashion tendency,