The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 10, 1907, Page 11

The San Francisco Sunday Call. ELABORATE SEPARATE WASTS EMBROIDERY AMONG EMBROIDERED G contraste are te Be noticed e fashions of the moment, both sever§ and elaborate displayed, each being ¥ and on the best au- thority to be the only one possible. But the day has passed when any one fash- stated positiy fon cam be thus asserted, for every woman who knows anything about othes knows that there is always a k oice, and that while for a e majority of women order of Dame n of an eve r may be i and an ab- y opposite fashion be Insisted ts are all Important to the fem- peace of m nd, and the question ether f: separate waists are fa le is continually discussed—in is never positively years since the edict went was skirts and waists the separate that , if mot textyre at 1 color and general style, to this seperate preme in favor direct disobe- shion is most other instances , the compromise ‘s ing both waists to match s as well, waist no me, cloth, silk, any material, the and away the favorite, vear the advance 3 streét gowns are 8o be and as, during the so-called slack season, s possible to have street gowns made at & marked reduction in price from thoss prevailing when the reason Ix at Its height, separate walsts ere much meore in evidence than earlier or later, and this is a capital oppor- tunity to select the most becoming styles and have them made. Variety in Separate Skirts There is no end of different designs and materials among the unlined waists in lingerle, linen, plain and em- brojdered, as well as silk, satin, crepe de chine, lace and net, but especial at- tention is heing paid to the lined and boned waists of silk, satin, crepe de chine or chiffon cleth. Oddly enough, waists are often on exactly the e lines as though intended to be with skirts to match, and yet indescribable something or them that marks them as » waists and not part of & gown, qust be confessed to the unini- ked difference, and the econom- minded woman finds reason to belle that the waists can be worn er with skirt to match or in con- trast Theater bodices is the name some- times given to these more elaborate sepermte waists, and certalnly the fashion Is 2 most practical one, for the er style of tailor gowns to be in the spring season is infinitely more serviceable when there are two or three walsts to wear with the gown. There may be just a hint of the sub- urbap element, of the living near town yather than in It and the comsoguant riecesstty to be more elaborately gowned i one stops over for the play, but certainly it is fashionable to live out of town, so that objection can easlly be met and the smartly made and somewhat elaborately trimmed waists make the severely plain gown extremely smart. There are more colored waists worn than last season. As has before been stated in these columns, it is becoming more and more the fashion to have a waist that matches in color the lining of the coat, and charmingeolor schemes ean in this way be carried out. A simple dark blue serge cloth or velling CHIFFON WALy T costume ecan, for instance, be quite transformed g with it a good-fit pale—heliotrope, green. - shade of blue. and then ' the jacket with lining to match the waist 1 waists are made loosc every figure, | ing to stout figures. These fitted walsts are « juen better in many io- stances. and v lining fits close the material i be draped loosel t and in rdance with te the lines of t € figure. Lace, ruffies, medallions and entre-doux of lace are favorite trim- mings, or there are ruchings or plait- ings of silk or satin put on in an in- numerable variety of designs and fig- ures. All kindg of lace are fashionable for the trimming. Valenciennes. Irish crochet, malines, ete, and often two or three kinds of lace are seen on the one walst. Narrow satin'and velvet ribbon fs algo unged, and is charmingly effective, put on in a hundred and one different patterns. The more elaborate spring costumes algo include elaborate waists, and these are made up in material to match the skirt, or in silk, satin, crepe de chine, chiffon, chiffon cloth, messalinc and all the new thin materiais. There really does not seem to be any reason for calling these new models separate walsts when they are trimmed with, if not made entirely of, the same mate- rial as coat and skirt; still, they are so termed, and the term conveys a differ- ent meaning. In gray there are several most fascinating models that can be worn eéither with coet and skirt cos- tumes or with skirt to match. Made in veiling, for /instance. the model is most suitable, while in soft silk or satin it is equally attractive, to be worn under a coat with a tailored skirt. Judging from present indications the fashlons this spring are mefe or less on the elaborate order, with the excep- tion of: the severe plain tailor cos- tume and the plain but axtremely smart shirt waist. There are ruffles, pleatings. flounces and folds of satin or velvet, while again lace and embroid- ery play an all important part in most of the gowns. Fortunately the lines of most of the styles are good. long and unbroken, so that the trimming, fol- lowing these lines, does not seem so appallingly overdone and éxaggerated. Materials also are ciaborate in design and pattéern, but when figured ma- terials are used there is not the same chance for trimming. The sleeves of the new waists are noticeably attractive, not exaggérated in shape or size; theéy follow the lines of the arm, and are far more becoming than the sleeves of last season. The majority reach well below the elbow and are finished with the flat unlined band of lace, and are also trimmed with narrow ruchings of silk or lace, or with fows of shirring. There is more than a suggestion of a puff above the elhow, but the trimming lies flat against it, or it put around it somehow seems to hold . it in place. The narrow ruchings of cream white Valenciennes are a fa- vorite trimming and are used with all LACE AND CHIFFON RISH LACE JABOT / JABOT golers and materials, and while the tashion is not absolutely new, it has certain points of novelty about it. The pleatings and ruchings of taffeta are also faghionable, while one novel style combines botli the silk and lace. Often the lace dyed to match thé material is chosen in preference to white, and if -this is not becoming, then white in col- lar and & V-shaped yoke with flat cuffs is used. | In order that the emplre style shall not be entirely neglected, the Delts worn on the waists are so fashioned that they suggest the style at the eomAL PINK CLOTH QOWN ~ i! back, but in front slope to the normal waist line. Made of soft taffeta or satin ribbon, thase shapéd helts are mos: becoming, to the fifure end add greatly to the smart effect of any form or waist, but are not appropriate it the waist is to be worn with a plain cheviot or tweed costume. The only correct Wwaist then 1s the plain shirt waist. To wear with the plain black or dark blue cloth or serge costumes ‘whick are so smart and useful a most agtractive style of walst ia made in pe de chine or chiffon cloth, trimmed PARLS FASHIONS REVIVAL oF HANDSOME = JABOTS \wAIST WITH IRISH LACE FINE FROCKING ROCKS for children from Paris are appearing in the most aston- ishing varieties and In such \ elaborate models as make one gasp and rather wonder as to whether after all they are not grewn-up frocks seen under a diminishing ass. The skirts of the little girls’ ocks are very, very short and flare very much at the bottom, although boasting an exceedingly jaunty fit at the top of the skirt, around the hips. In spite of the craze for empire fashions many of the most stylisn._little frocks are made lang-waisted and. finished with tiny belts and sashes. One very surprising little frock seen at a fashlonable birthday tea for chil- dren was of embroidered white ladies’ cloth, the very short skirt made in two ..ounces, each edged with a trimming of black velvet, over which was an em- broidery of white silk. The bodice was long-waisted and trimmed with black velvet ribbon, cut low In the neck, with a band of the embroidered velvet around the guimpe and finishing the elbow sleeves. The belt was of black velvet finisned with a bow and long ends in the back. To complete this chic costume there was a bolero of ermine, over which was a black velvet collar with two points, back and front. The collar was edged with a white silk braid. The short sleeves were also finished with tire braid over black vel- vet. The child wore with thi& costume an ermine bonnet, close fitting and high in. the crown. It was trimmed on either side with a large white rose. White stockings and black patent leather pumps and white elbow gloves were worn. Another _little girl wore a white i with narrow pipings or folds of taffeta. FEither .the chemisette of late or lin- gerie, with cuffs to match, finishes the waist or it is worn with one of the néw jabots or tles that are so popular this season. Crepe de chine and chiffon “cloth are excellent wearing materials, and for the many times when a dark walst is required with a plain costume there Is nothing so satisfactory, and it is possible to obtaln quite a varlety or design in the trimming of taffeta. Velvet ribbon can be used for the trim- ming also, but is by no means so prac- tical as the silk. . Charming French Headdress for the Theater ARISIAN milliners are again making an effort to contrive the- ater headdresses which shall be part hat and part coiffure orna- ment, end which it will be possible to keep on in the main body of the house without interfering with the view of the stage to thosa behind the wearers. It would really be a boon to womankind' if some such headdress could be con- trived. What is needed is something which could be worn In the street, not only in a carriage but in the street cars, becausé the women who always go in carriages are atso apt to occupy Dboxes, where picture hats are in order. The theatrical headdress is especially needed for women who sit in the body of the house. The difficulties attached to this sort of headdress are of two kinds. In the first place it is difficult to contrive one which will give any protection to the thead, and in the second place it is even more difficult to build such 2 headdress which will not in reality block the view of the stage. - very high and The ‘tull colftures which are pow worn do this lently as it " 'When to these aré added standing or spreading aigrettes, plumes or flowers, the effect is almost as maddening hat. And the mil- liner does not live, In Paris or else- where, who would be content to make an entirely flat headdress which would he a protection to th8 wearer when in the street and would not need to be taken' oft In the theater. The hat- makers start out to do this,- but in-~ variably their desirs to give style to tie cohfection overcomes their origi- nal intention and in goes a plume, an aigrette, an obtrusive bouquet of blossoms, or some other decoration which completely nuilifies, for theater wear, the valye of the hedddress. Of course, many persons think that the playgoers shouls not exact from women the sacrifice of removing their hats in theaters, but the audiences in big cities have now 80 used to the comfort of a _hatless assemblage that they do not submit for ment, %0 a headdress that resembles a hat. The Parisian milliners, howaver, are making & strenuous effort to introduce these half hat sort of headdresses, and for very obvious reasons. As they have not been able to think of ml.g that is unique and expensive | and rve their customers i v 5 :: ‘the same time, they qum Ty aux- fous to create a demand for theater headdresses which shall be entirely distinct from all hats or coifture or- naments to be wWorn at any other time. This will naturally add an entirely new fleld to thein business, and will, more- over, provide a special trade for the dull season between the winter and spring trades, when most women have 1aid in their regular outfit of millinery, but when, the theatrical season belng at its height, theater hats would be especially in demand, b TG This feather was entirely uncurled save at the edges, which were turned der ‘wfth the loose grace of natural hair. As it was & delicate straw color, it looked at a little distance not like/ an o;](rleh plume so much &s a pe- culiarly ricu flowing ' wig. such as might be worn in some costume play. The fact that it followed the shape of the head and the stran drooped i the sames db as r would hav ‘done made the llusion more perfect. Another headdress which bordersd Some of the headdresses for this pue- \am-toully near the lines of &. hat pose which have already been pro- vided are moat exi One, in which a strenuou Tort = Had ' been made to stick to the original idea of sed simply of a headdress, 'was ;CO twisted bl!lfl.lli, d bow of tulle rib- bon and a large. on m‘ ‘nape of the neck witl a full roll around the face. The fllet of pale b tulle was sprinkled with dewdrops in crystals. At one side was & sized flat bow of the ribbon, tl all being sclentiously “the head. ¥ is bow “thiek 'This bow stood ad?fif.‘fé%“’afi“.'.“: ‘broad, Still was a sort of & turban made of em- broidered net. It had no brim, but & erown of the net, longer from from fromt to.back, the material bglug:mmy, y put on. A well @ m the hat and up somewhat. A gariand of small roses the hat all around and was bunched together in the front of the bow. At the back of the bow the intended for wear over a high coiffure. The chiffon bands or fllet came to a point in front of the high knot. They then extended on ecither. side of the knot to-the back. At the back, but a little to the left side, a chou of the chifton of medium size and flat was placed. From this chou three uncurled ostrich plumes stood out. They did not f:‘nd high, but well away from the r and slightly upward at first, after- ward drooping over the hair. A decidedly queer looking headdress was made of a stiff gold band about an inch and a halt wide, set upen the head at somewhat the same augle and in about. the same relative size as a Tom- my Atkins cap is worn by the doughty Britiso soldier, Two little Mercury wings of bright glittering gréen irides- cent work sprouted from either side of the gold band. A white ostrich plume ‘was attachéd to the gold band back of the little green wing on one side. Then the ostrich feather went across the top of the head perfectly flat and hung down on the left side of the head away i 11 ern r_" S BT o i below the ear. Bandeaux with birds of umm;m m::.m m :u"m. one ear, or with g g i l'}t ! an i-: m'a:. urm aitn . It was or reslly 2o FOR JUVENILES - cashmere costume made with & shert skirt and long blouse. The freck trimmed with bands of white silk. pleatings of the same on the The deep pointed collar was of Eng- lish eyelet embroldery, the same helag used for a rather deep belt. Over thls was worn a coat of golden brown vel- vet faced with white and with bands of darker velvet. The coat was very short waisted, with s full skirt. The sleeves were Very full at the top and trimmed with two shoulder capes. With this costume the little girl. wore a hat of white felt trimmed with a white and” gteen wreath. It was a broad, low-crowned affair of smooth Freneh felt. Tt was an afternoon birthday party, and the little hostesses were attired in tanciful little aftérnoon costumes. THE most elaborate of these was made of coral colored cloth, The skirt, very short and flaring, was fnished with two tucks. Above this was a band ef scallop embroidery simulating an over- skirt. The embroidery was done Im much deeper coral. The walst was a blouse with a bolera over it. ‘iue blouse and sleeves were of the same material, a fine embrold ered silk muslin in pale ecru. The sleeves were full short puffs finishing above the elbow. The blouse, very tull, was finished in front with a bex pleat, on either side of which was a knife pleating. The bolero, short and sleeveless, was made of the coral cloth, the upper rlmrl being shirred and the lower part plain and trimmed with the emroidered seal- lops to match the skirt. The bolero had bands across the shoulders but- toned down in ront and back. A tura- over collar almost as large as a sallor collar and of the material of the blouse finished the neck. [t was smbroidered around the edges and finished with & knife pleating. The costume had a st deep belt made of velvet the color of the embroldery and fastened in fromt with a big square pearl buckle. Angther of the little hostesses wore & most effective costume. It was of ivory veiling, trimmed witly bands of desp blus silk. The very short skirt, laid in box pleats. had a panal down the front. A broad band of the silk bordered the bottom of the.skirt, not, however, going across the box pleat. The top of the skirt was finished with a yoke which extended into what was practically & Princess belt. This was separated from the skirt proper by a broad bdand of the silk geing all the way aroynd. The long blouse was cut away im front over a chemisette of allover am- broidery. The blouse, plain across the shoulders, was laid in pleats at the waist line. Bands of the silk extenqed from armholes of the costume ¢ the waist line, sloping toward the front. These bands were bordered with pleat- jngs of the material and with narsow lace. The front edges of the blouse— those opening over the chemisette— were made into buttonholes, which wers laced with crushed pleces of the silk, which were tied together and hung im long ends at the bottom of the blouse. The short, full slesvey weya fnfshed with cufts trimmed with narrow lace. The chemisette had a choker sellar and the blouse proper was fluished with a shallow shawl collar of allover am- broidery. Another attractive costume was of scarlet and white cloth trimmed with black satin. The skirt was box pleatad. The ssilor blouse, of red cloth. opened over a chemisette of white cloth. This was trtmmed with four hotizontal bands of black satin. The sailor collar was in two sections. The back part, which came over the shoulders, was made of black satin cdged with bands of white cloth. The lower lapels were of white cloth trimmed with Bands of black satin. a broad, Eesinlisels