The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 12, 1906, Page 28

onreid Replacing Grqh Expending Big Sum as of Loss in San Francisco. HUGE TASK CONFRONTS NEW YORK IMPRES ARIO where to to his ogO 20 L3 AUSTRIAN ~COSTUME ATELIER, VIENNA i rials There are silks and cloths and| g velvets and satins equal to any which one could find| t 1 at a fashionable dressmaker’s in Bond streét or Fifth avenue The chief of t} that employed ¢ Vienna atelier, Rudolf Winternitz, s firm has no more particular and omer than the New York opera director, what d insists upon id's m rvelous, , for. he never forgets-a costume he. has He head the scenes of every 1 tell instantly what particular shades says has in his ian Costume ‘Atelier' is most completely e g-rooms and. trying-on oor all covered with can sée his costume equipped fooms from every point of view. But besides this these rooms are fitted with stage electric lights of various colors arranged as footlights and also from ovérhead. Thus one. can,judge of the effect of the costume under all conditions of light and shade. All the new costumes for the Metropolitan. havé been_specially designed by a famous Vienna artist, Professor -Heinrich Loefler. . From his_ sketches, which are réally finished pictures, the costumier makes the dresses, follo g most strictly the artist’s designs. All these.sketches are first approved, how- ever, by Director. Conreid D Scarcely less arduous than the task of procuring so many hundreds of new costumes is that of getting etirely ‘new -scenery for a score of operas. This work bas. been entrusted to two Vienna firms of scenic artists, Janny Petrides and Rothaug and XKa@t- sky and Rottomara - + American Keen Revenge:. KN 11.—When the American woman s welcomed, petted is the fashion. By her | her hospitality and her| rries all before her. | blood 6f the Conqueror | churchmen | , she cz when Helen, Lady | in the dim past| w just then| In ed as an | was supposed to be vulgar and was the daughter porkl an was reg assumed to be of a some bride of Lord Abinger, with some of Southern blood in her veins, whose| Commodore Magruder, was one of the firsté » the American navy, observed promptly the | She saw it was a case of “Ought we to| her?” Proud and independent, she held hcrself" loof. She made up her mind they had to come to her before she would make the slightest-move. > A B Tt o A % . L[] J I € ) NG, THE AT INVVEETLOCHT =~ 7 FZALL CAITLT * { To be more than even with Englis;h society was, | court, or at one of the big political:receptiou"s, out however, her determination. When she appeared at|of which ‘she could not possibly be left because of - THE RECEPTION BOUJOIR @”JTI?IIUV COSTUME ATELIER RS bold Attack Ufion = -+ her husband’s position, Lady Abinger resolved she| would show the wives of British noblemen that she| was one of the best dressed women in Europe and| maké them furiously envious. For one of ‘Queén Victoria's drawing-rooms, as the courts of those days were called, Worth himself traveled from Paris with her gown that he might seé her in it and make suggestions as to the arrange- | ment of her jewels and flowers. The famous modiste gloried in designing her dresses, for he said there was no woman in Europé who could show them off to such advantage, her figure being matchless. When Lady Abinger made her bow to Queen Victoria in that dréss, éven her Majesty, who was| the poorest judge of chiffons, gazed at:the wearer in unmistakable admiration and when she had passed demanded: 4 “Is that the American Peeress?” | When informed that it was she remarked, “What 4 béautiful creature, and what a marvélous gown. 1 really must know a little more about the wearér.” ; Almost directly afterward Lord and Lady Abinger | réceived a “commond” to “dine and sleep” at \Vind-‘ sor Castle. | This, of course, was a gréat triumph for the daugh- ter of Columbia. It signified that she-had “arrived.” | | She was overwhelmed with invitations 't6 swell funcli'ms. Titled dames who had heretofore ignored | | her rashed to call upon her. She met these advances | coldly. Heaps of invitations found their way straight | into thé waste paper basket. T® many of her visitors | she was “not at home.” Among those. whom she| did receive was the late Marchioness of Salisbury. | “Now that is a visit you must return at once,” said Lord Abinger to his wife. [ “Do you think so?” suc rejoined. “Are you aware | that I had been in England nine months before | the ‘Marchioneéss took the. trouble to call upon me?| SHe only ¢omes now because I have been to Windsor | €astle. . After nine months haye elapsed, I shall| féturn. her- visit, but not one mimute sooner.” E . L4dy: Abinger takes no interest in Society—with | a large " S.”- The truth is her eyes were. opened to | its ‘shdllowness'.and hypocrisy by the ‘coldness of | hér first réceptioh in England and the fawning which | follow¢d wheh'Royalty condescended to smile upon | her. Shé ‘nebetilids entertained largely. Popularity | she despises. 8lighhas become a most exclusive and | retiring 'woi i8, very little seen éven by Hier | own_country¥or eft;;although there is none who has | a warmer f her friends. ‘ Thete was, 4 'strong ‘element of romance in the| marfiage of ‘Lord “and 'Lady Abinger. The third| Baron (hér husband) was a'great polo player. It| was at.a match that he met his wife. It happéned | this way. The day was warm, and a fly having stung | Lord Abinger's pony caused it to rear and throw| its rider, who dashed his head against a fence. He| was picked up unconscious. Miss Magruder, as Lady Abinger then was, saw the accident and came forward ‘and rendéred first aid. When eventually Lord Abinger opened his eyes, he saw bending over him a vision in white muslin. He said afterward that his fate was sealed then and there. | e Lt X 6 . Lords Bow Before ‘“The Timss .’ LONDON, Aug. 11.—The London_Times is now éntering into competition'with the other dailies for | early delivery in the country and consequently goes | to press at 11:30 p. m., instead of 3 a. m., as hereto-| fote. The result was that this week the Times’ reports of the debates on the educational bill in the House of “Lords closed at 11 p. m., omitting speeches made after that hour. * Their lordships | considér it so important to be reported in the Tites | that they met later at noon instead of at 4:30 p. m., in order to finish™ the debate early enough to ‘suit the Times’ new arrangements. - \ B | the expected act of imperial c | misinformed ‘and misled by faw | that the Emperor’s impulsive, strenuo d Opera Costumes and Scenery — ) oF AN 9, K4 - Emperor William ERLIN, Aug remarkable personal attacks upon the Kaiser e boldest and most 11.—One of t which a German newspaper has ever had ‘“i courafe to print was published week the National Zeitung of Berlin. The attack is all the motre remarkable because it emanates from a journal which is generally understood to be highly “semi-official.” Apropos of the Kaiser’s fai up to the present time, to dignify the birth' of is in the ynal Zeitung upbraids touch with public of a general amnesty, the 1 him for being seriously out of opinion in Geérmany, and. a a “dan- The journal says this proces gerous” point for the welfare of th and calls upon the Kaiser in plain langua greater The articl mates re fills with thorns the paths of officials who re attempt to be his advisers, but insists that he owes it to the loyal, momarchical people of the Fatherland to take theirt views and wishes more into consideration. It is declared that the German people share with the Emperor the affront he must feel at King Ed- ward’ entatious disinclination to meet Imperial nephew, and at other marks of il ill by members of the British Royal family, and that it recompense to this spirit of loyaity and compassign for their sovereign that he celebrates the birth 1 thé future German Emperor by according “gracioas héeéd to the voice of the people. is poor | permission” to his yacht's band to play a certain parade march on festive occasionss Div'orcggan—dal In El_i_gh Circles LONDON, Aug. alry regiment as petitioner; a captain in the guards, and heir to a peerage, as co-respondent; the daughter § Each figured befure the président of the divorce court this week. The petitioner was Colonel Thomas James Ather- ton;-who, - with- his regiment, the Twelfth Lancers, won distinction at Paardeberg and other fighting during the South African war. His wife, Mabel Louisa, whom he has now divorced, is the daughter of the late Sir Edward John Dean Paul. ' The co- respondent was the Hon. Captain John Reginald I'Gpes Yarde-Buller of the Scots Guards, heir of Lord Churston. While Colonel Atherton distinguished - himself in the South African fighting, Mrs. Atherton was one of those well intentioned women whose presence in Cape Town during the early days of the war was so much criticised. Some of these women went out to nurse their husbands. Others, it is said, looked upon a visit to the base of operations as a novel form of socjal function. ' It was while Mrs. Atherton was in Cape Town— she had come out “to join her husband”—that an incidént, brought prominently forward in yesterday's proceedings, took place. Upon the evidence sub- mitted the divorce was granted. Carmen Sylva Aids the Blind. INTERLAKEN, Aug. 11.—Mrs. Walker Fearn, whose late husband was at one time American Minister to Greece, Roumania and Servia, and after- ward one of the Judges of the mixed tribumals in Egypt, is here visiting her daughter, Mrs. Barton 11.—The colonel of a crack cav- of a Baronet as respondent | French, and has just come.from Roumania, where she vigited the Queen, better known to literary peo- plé as “Carmen Sylva.” Mrs. Fearn gave an interest- ing account of the wonderful work the Queen is doing for the blind. She is building a city for them provided with every possible arrangement for com- fort and pleasure. Ram Brings a Large Price. LONDON, Aug. 11.—The highest price ever paid in.England for a ram was realized at Grimsby yes- terday, the occdsion being the annual sale of cattle and sheep bred by Henry Dudding of Riby Grove., The -ram was the shearling Riby, a Derby champion and the winner of the first prize at the Royal Show at Dérby this yéar. Mr. Miller of Birkenhead bought the ram for.a Buenos Ayres breeder for §761a.50. d