The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 12, 1906, Page 15

Al Qun dhage An Ertire Lin HE season’at a swing. re 2 be needs wishes to be ed. The day's onable wa- lless change rstood 1t that be of time and t dgy, but ere must needs be more th the a to meet all the different fashion. The first model ost popular ens and m osing in popt g and attr different de: colorings, is astonishing how unlike thes le yet on the same order inens are especlally sma helr and it and It not to be w hat they have received Fas on's seal of approval, for the colors in themselves are so charming, and, fur- ities do not fade or change color either from laundering or )m exposure to the sun There are ! me stymes plain and almost severe in e only embroldery being or he lars and cuffs or in straight at are somewhat on the in piece alls fo fact. the open-wo S0 Siolin Ditie SF O work and close roid combined are extremely effective A band of em just around the hem of the sk armin nis is used in some of the most davs, lot these gerie Costume Frock Hat, and mer resorts| effective paiterns that can be easiivp e and graceful cos- s , empire and the coat| and effective design in | sies is a favorite pattern, for it combines both the heavy and light embroldery and s especially well pted to the heavy linen. The | orenwork designs, eyelet hole embrotd- with tracery of leaves and vines| aud insertions of Valenclennes or Irish are most charming in the firm | of linen, or, to speak more , on the lighter weight. Th ore often seen on white than colored material, and the linen c muslin can be as sheer as a handker | chief if so desired. After all, though, these extremely sheer linens are ones to be included under the term of embreldered linens and really should be grouped with lingerie and embroid- cred muslin gowns. nere are flounced s in the heavy | that are charming, each flounce pattern of embroidery and finished n & scalloped border. One smart model has on the sealloped flounce o-othe broidery, and the high lc of bodice has wide bretelles also not the en finished with scalloped edges. To wear with this is a smart littie jacket, scal- loped and with turned-down collar, also scalloped. Made in pale green, coral, or bright blue, th considered extremely becoming, but the sk mode] has been #factory and ires to be well cut and carefu look well. All flounced skirts require care- ful treatment, but this one espacial must be well together or the cos- tume will be totally devold of style hrere are so many different quuiities ashionable this summer it Is when choosing eral cos- to decide upon which the ble. A smooth finished sur- what | E taffeta has almost appearance of light In weight and is to Le v conceivable shade of color. heavy or open work, looks on it, and it is certainly populer. vet no less In demand is a loose voven linen. looking rather like a Lieavy old-fashioned crash or canvas "this is heavily embroidered in the solid roidery. and is made up in the coat d skirt costumes. The design of the broidery is elaborate, quite covering front breadth and the fronts of the ket and the sleeves, while a narrow | collar of some light shade of velvet es a most becoming color contrast. only exception to the elaborate de- of embroidery ix scen In the model nes 18 er fs greatly in demand. Embroidered on ich has lines of narrow braid down finen sheeting. bly original each seam and around the hem of the tended for t pse, are some most ' gkirt, the brald put fur enough apart 2 = S g A GING from the dainty confections ich cover many women's heads this season it would seem that a is being made of wearing artifictal J owers in tune with the seaso e penetential season of Lent, wii let was i fower, a rapid Bummer appeared smart hate. Many women have Become 50 2live to this ldea of wearing arl'f fowers pecullar to the season that they off a garniture of flowers as soon 2% their natural geason is past and re- place it with another, even If it s 1o be but two or three weels. jeliotrope and honeysuckle have been perhaps more in vogue this sum- mer than any other artificlal flowers. Both have been exquisite in make and color. The heliotrope has been consid- erably seen on hats with yoliow roses, nd the combination thus forméd has few rivals in beauty. Elaborate garnitures of artifizial cherries and eurrants were popular in Paris early in July, when the fashion met with rather an amusing setback. The Seasons in Mii - linery Flowers A woman appeared one night at the | Gomedle Francais wearing witl the ut- | most sangfroid a cream-colored lace ireaddress trimmed with a huge bunch | of cherries. Inside each oue of the {ruits there was most cleverl: cohtrived | a little electric light. The nc cay In | ris nothing was harder :» find nt a | liiner's of good nding tha uch a beaddress or such a bunch of cherries, Already in Parls hats are heing shown to American tourists for autuinn. | | For these chrysanthemums are in the | | highest favor. Yellow ones, and those of deep, rich red are seen on roques of woolly looking brown and green felt, while velvety white chrysanthimums ere held in reserve for the winter. | These latter will garnish black toques. Zlmost as comsplcuous as chrysanthe- | mums for autumn wear are the wonder- ful imitations of oak leurot 4nd acorns which have fallen on fashionabls hats. | Many of the acorns * bright green, (as though in the freshness of youth, | while others are deep brcwn or even | black and appear to have-wrestled with {all the storms of winter, THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL widkeremef Wi to allow of rows of French knots pe« tween. White is the best color in this sort of linen material, and for some un- kinown reason looks far smarter than the colored. It is extremely difficuit to find a good black In linen, and consequent- ly, even in mourning, white is worn in , preference, It was not formerly considered correct in first to wear white, but now that fashion has ordained that all white is quite in keeping with mourning, white linen costumes that can be worn, even during t first six months; but embroidery not thought proper, and so there no end of very simple white is linen costumes made on just the same lines | but with- 1t is as the embroldered ones, out even the scalloped bands. re added to the list of those | astonishing, noné the less, to see now | extremely smart these absolutely plain mourning | gowns n look, for they are made of the finest material and are always well cut and carefully fitted. Princess gowns afford a good oppor- tunity for the display of fine em- broldery, and the bands of embroider- ed linen are most efective. Then, too. the corselet shirt, with bands or bretelles over the shoulders, and the smart short Jackets can be a mass of embroidery. These have all been described before, but, late in the season as it may seem, there are many new models that are weil worth copy- ing. both for wear now and for the next season; for it may safely he taken for granted that such gowns will surely be seen agaln next sum- mer, and although there msey be new Linen frock. With Irish and Valenciennes noveitiés to copy In skirts and waists, these same gowns are made up In so liberal an allowance of material there will be né dificulty in having them made over so as to be quite up to date. Apparently the medium length half- fitting coat, neitlier short nor long. Is 10 be a favorite this autumn and next year, and no end of novelties in that are to be seen. It affords a capital opportunity for tue dlsplay of embroidery or for the combining of lace éntre deux and embroidery omn the material itself. This is, of cour: more effective in white, for the color effect somehow seems smarter than when colored embroldery and white lace are combined, even when the em- broidery 1s the exact shade of the meaterial, and partly on that account — Embroidering Collars and Cuffs Is a Popular Fad. MBROIDERED collars and cuffs, al- ‘ways most attractive with mourn- ing frocks of linen, pique, chambray and woolen goods, are losing none of their popularity as the season advances. Of course the desire of every feminine soul is for hand embroidery, and the woman who longs for it and doesn’t try a little work of that kind on her own account i3 in the minority. Working on the very fine linen is sometimes hard on the eyes, but the simple embroidery, with heavy thread on the heavy linen, is not too exacting for the ordinary woman when done in & good light. Of course all embroidery is hard on the person with unusually weak cyes. ‘fhe collars anu 15 shown s the fllustrations are all exceedingly good style, both in cut and orramentation. They are all of styles adaptable to old and young. Even the simplest of them when hand made and on good material is much prettier and more stylish than the most elaborate machine-made col- lars, especially such as are trimmed with cheap lace. | | Limen Costume With the all-white coats with alternate lace end embrofdery are considered espe- clally smart. Originality in the patterns is large- ly sought for, and, in consequence, there is great rivalry as to the design- ing. A design effective in itself is not always so satisfactory when the gown is made up as it appeared in the original sketch, and it is claimed for some of the smartest gowns that the material has first been sewn to- gether and then the pattern outlined upon it. Be that as it may, it is eer- tain that the greatest skill and ar- tistic talent can find full opportunity in this fad of fashion followers, for even gowns for midwinter, of which the favored few are vouchsafed a slimp exhibit the most mervelous of embroldery and braiding. Until this time of the year the prices demanded for the handsomest of the embroidered costumes have been som: what prohibitory to the larger number —the great majority of the feminine world—but this, is the time of year when the true bargain hunter goes in s strange to say, in the embroidered gowns no less than in those of such material and design as seem adapted to the moment. The embrold- ery itself, so it Is contended, may bs rch of rare game, and she finds it, | only | Evelet Embrowdery | it is safe to assert it will be—fash- | fonable for several seasons: but it is | the style of the gown itself that may | change before next season. A truly | smart embroidered gown may now be | had for a third of the price originally ked for it simply because it has been late in coming from the workroom or because for some inexplicable reason it was overlooked when such number of gowns all on the same order were be- ing shown. Now ecan be found charm- Ingly dainty linen gowns in pale mauve, blue or pink, sometimes rather | eccentric. but always smart: again rather too plain were it not for the bands of embroidery around the collar | and cuffs. This embroidery is exceed- ingly fine and dainty. Of course, among all the left over gowns there are many that have not found faver on account of their being too eccentrie, too ugly or in some way impossible. These are not bargains even when cov- ered with embroidery, for a close in- spection will reveal that the embroid- ery is coarse, although effective, and the material is the same. It is always a much better plan to choose a gown | with less embroidery and of finer ma- terial, some of the smartest of all be- ing. as has been stated, quite plain | save in the embroidery on cuffs or | collar. Eittle Notions UTOMOBILE finery continues to A grow In perfection of style with every son. The masculine au- set by women motorists, and In this department of dress at least there are 4s many new and expensive things for men as for women. The pongee dust- ers are now highly popular with men, and indeed are much more sensible than the linen ones, as they do net muss so quickly. The brown linen dusters have a certain character and style, especially for men, but they are not comfortable, being stif and cum- bersome. The rajah dusters, perhaps not Quite so attractive for masculine wear at first glance, are very useful. They are shown in tan, | brown, gray and a very dark, dull red, almost brown. ‘The bright mustard tones which were so popular for motor- ing seem to have gone out. ere are also the light-weight cra- venette dusters and a peculiar weave of mohair, very fine and of dull finish and Mght In weight. It comes in duH plaids, black slate color and dark gray- ish brown and Is considered most de- sirable for masculine motorists. For the women the most attractive colors seem to be light tan, gray and a pecullar light red, something on the coral order. It is not at all bright. al- though it is light in tint, and seems to be generally becoming. Motor gloves for men as well | women are made of silk mesh, quits | open, but heavy in quality. The paims and under side of the fingers are of | leather or kid, perforated. Quite a bright tan or gray seems to be the | most popular color for men. Among | the women's gloves a very swagger style is in black and white. .he back of the glove is of biack silk mesh and the palm of white kid, perforated. Pongee caps to match the dust coats, Raving vis nd long turtains behind, are among the most comfortable of the me fashio in headgear. For the women there is a most coquettish bon. net of pdngee. It is ltke a sunbonnet, somewhat like a large nightcap with a cape. It has a full erown which covers the head completely drawn around the front of the face with an _elastic. tomobile toggery keeps up to the mark | though | rufe of the pongee. not very wide but very full The cape divides in the of the Momen; j middle, crosses at the back. and is brought forward and tled under the | chin. Among the summer fancies in jewelry are sleeve links of red and white stones —diamonds, garnets, carbuncles, rubles or crystals may be used. The links are in many different shapes, the distinc- tive feature being that one link will be all in red and the other in white, or | else one link will be made of red stones with a diamond in the center and the jother of diamonds with a red stone in |the center. Other colored stones are also shown in this style, but the red |and white combination seems to be the | favorite one, And this is not only true |of the sleeve links. In brooches and | bracelets as well the red and white | stones figure largely. | Another odd pair of sleeve links for & | person of sporting proclivities had one |tink ornamented with a wild duck in enamel and another with a bird dos. The links were oval and concave in shape. The figures were in relief and covered with crystal. | Another evidence of the popularity of | mixed color schemes in jewelry than that afforded by the cuff links is shown in the revived popularity of the little flower baskets which were fashionable many years ago. The baskets, of gold lattice work, are filled with flowers made of various colored jewels. The ornament is used for a brooch. These broockes when formerly used we usually of French filigree and paste | jewels and were exceedingly pretty. | although comparativety inexpensive. A | number of them wers disposed of at the sale of the effects of the late Mrs. Gilbert. the well known actress. They | went for a mere song. although they were, in fact. prettier than the méw | brooches of similar pattern, altheugh | the n ones are made of genuine | stoges and are very expensive. > | Most attractive are the new hand- | Kerchiets of linen and embroidery | which e now being shown in the | French shops. They are of fine linen, | but not of the most delicate grade | Aeross an entire corner Is embroidered | a- scattered flight of swallows hover- | ing above some wheat sheafs. There are other handkerchlels, which shew fiights of bees, birds or :prays of blos- | soms. The new feature of the land- kerchiefs is the way in which the in- sects or blossoms are scattered over | ! Then there is a double | the linen with wide spaces |and in a design so nncom | to seem almost no design e 2}