The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 25, 1906, Page 13

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. 4 '—“’—_‘ S s > BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. K, March 18 e gown in whi was attired was es - Sleeves are short: ekirts, too, are ab- . breviated; walsts are quite in vl 5 their design, and one for a slightily ttle. There are > this g , of course, but the | one e B do very well on a very o ome of the nmew thi ) wear are -5 and startin t. And k ne of elegant garme t stands k- very prominently. . ng matron . with pink clitehis g cloaks of net, wraps of the same ma- or comaloiivn s 5 terial, and whole gowns erent, and most designed for plazza or for an American womer been chosen as t ok rimmed with & cape of around the edge of the each side of the front of t was an embroidery of go Gold Needlework and d needlework dec s nowadays that one dy it to a finish use of it. Upon & of soft white taffets, the summer evenings, there wi of gold lace. The lace. an inch wide, but whic y leaf end bud order the cape a down the fror Lace. ake the hg cap square collar, which was 1 neck. The obliging saleswoman exp! women who wore the & capes were particular, also cases of gold, gold chain pur: reticules, gold opera bags and cl gold wrist bags are all popular, when it comes to fans with gold st , there is nothing at all to compare to them in point of popularity. it seems & pity to take up the subject of fens when there are so many other things to engage one’s thoughts, but the truth is that it is to be a fan summer, &nd every woman must carry a fan with every costume, and the fan must match completely. Can you imagine a gown, all of silvered —that 1s, with silver threads woven In the silk—and trimmed with white lace? It was worn with small siiver ornaments. 1f your mind can picture so pretty a dress you may be able to imagine h a one worn by a pretty young society matron who led & cotillon the other day A debutante wore a gown which was just as pretty, but cost a great deal less. It was made of crisp white organdie, and the ribbons end trimmings were ail of sil- vered ribbon. The belt, a silvered affair, was embroidered in garlands of tiny pink roses. The foundation skirt was pale pink—just pink enough to shimmer through her gown. Fashion is There are state of that the re been as many novelties. filled with them and the win- ked. Row arfter row they tingly set forth for has the money with which ~new girdles, long lace stocks and neck ruffies stated right here that it take so very much money ° to gowns these days. It is not a sea- The Flowered Silk Coats. when s great deal of material is Right here one should pause long utred for = gown, and it is Dot a enough In the narrative of gowns to men- tion the flowered coats, which are numer- spring when the stuffs are particularly ous and as charming &s one would wish kigh priced Piceture to see. They are the little, open silk coats, caught with a clasp in front and furnished with embroidered lapels. They are cut away so as to show the gown, and they are to be worn wita the predy net and challie and silk mpll dresses of sum- mer. A woman went out shoppiug the other ase a flowered silk coat. The ied her a_lovely thing ih soft cream colored taffeta, with pink satin roses growing all over it and small green =ilk leaves. “This, madame,’ sald he, “is e material for a flowered Louis XIV at.” “How shall I make 1t?" questioned the woman. “Make it with elbow sleeves, with stiff turn-back cuffs trimmed with goid but- tons, with a pink topaz in each button. Let the front be cut away sharply and let the lapels be narrow and rolled back and caught with pink topaz ornaments. Let the tails be three-quarter length.” “And the lining?" asked the woman. “The lining, madame,” sald the clerk, “‘depends upon your purse. A very nice coat of thig description was lined with cream-colored satin. Another had a much cheaper lining. Inexpensive soft, white taffeta makes as fine a lining as any.” The woman bought the flowered silk and had it made as directed. Bhe will wear the coat over a pink crepe de chine, made with no other trimming than a guantity of pretty shirring. Her hat will be one of the new summer hats of cream mohair braid, banked under the back with numerous pink roses, small and charm- ingly massed and interspersed with little green leaves. Her fan is an heirloom— one of those old pink brocade fans set in ivory sticks. In her hand this woman will carry a hemstitched linen pocket handkerchief, trimmed with lace; in the middle thers is 2 plain square of net lace, in the center of which there will be worked a white &llk monogram. This s one of the newest handkerchief fads—a hint for the woman who likes pretty handkerchiefs. Elegant Conts and Capes. The separate black silk coat, made of glossy satin or of corded silk, or of bro- cade or molire antique, should be in every summer wardrobe. It makes a beautiful little summer afternoon coat to wear with one’s handsome foulard dresses and one’s flowered mulls and one's light summer silks, and It is exceedingly pretty with a blue taffeta or & pink flowered silk. Such & coat gives the touch of elegance which one requires on many an occasion. “It is a very good thing,” sald a French dressmaker, who caters to the very wealthy, “that the fashiogs are such that any woman can look well. The separate silk coat is an article which is dressy and not expensive. It takes little and is not difficult to make, If one understands how to fit. It must be glove-fitting and must be open in the front—one of those dressy little Louis affairs, which make such a difference in one’s wardrobe. “Again, among the articles which any woman can have, and which stamp her as the well-gowned woman, there is the lace cape. This should be long, like a circular cape, and made of white lace—if & womap dresses at ail gOlll The lace need not be expensive, and, it very cheap lace is used, it had best be lined with chiffon to give it body, with an inner lining of cheap White taffeta. The bottom of the cape can have a tiny de- sign outlined In very narrow black fur. There can be a flat collar, with a trace of fur running around it. This makes a beautiful cape. “These articles which I have just de- scribed are necessarily elegant articles of dress. But they pay one so well for the investment. Even in a small town, where one sees the same people year after year, and where one does not go out a great deal, such a lars cape is a good invest- ment. It can be worn to card partles, little dances and to the theater, while for a dressy article, to take with one when ons is going away for & week's vacation, there is nothing that compares to {t. And it is new and fashionable. A Drecsmaker’s Advice, ““We dressmakers advise the making of one nice article each year in the hope that our customers will eventually have a sup- ply of things to wear with their inexpen- slve gowns and hats. A lace cape, or & silk coat is like a handsome plece of seal- skin or like a fine jewel. It dresses one up amasgingly, and is g00d forever. It covers more than & multitude of sins in the way of silk shirt waists that are a little past their prime and sleeves that have outlived their style. “The average Wwoman, lie woman of imited Income, is apt to think that she cannot afford the nice things of dress. And perhaps she may not be able to do so. But, on the other hand, she may not be able to afford to do without them. A few nice things are so essential to well dressing. And that is the advice of & gowu maker.” Mrs. Grover Cleveland has a pretty evening gown which, 1ike most of her gowns, is adaptea to women of smaller means. It is not an extravagant thing and it might be copied for very little. Its materjal 1s soft taffeta, and it is made with a long and perfecuy plain skirt. The waist is cut low in the neck, but not so low as to fall off the shoulders. A great many of the new spring cos- tumes are made even plainer than those of the fall. One particularly pretty gown is bullt of royal blue velvet of very light and very soft quality. It is scarcely heavier than cashmere, yet it has all the glossy, lovely qualities of velvet. It is built with a long plain skirt and a three- quarter coat open in the front to show & handsome lingerie walist. The skirt is cases. And here one is treated to some trimmed with an embroidery of gold lace. But to return to the summer gown ‘which is now belng built by the busy seamstress. It is made of wash goods. of course, and it is founded upon the con- ventional “wash’ dress lines. But it is pretty and it is dainty. It is made of or- gandie, muslin, lawn and soft cambric, and its colors are numerous and novel. One actually gees wash gowns in all the new tones, which is quite an exceptional thing, for one does not expect to see wash goods manufactured in such delicate shades as mauve, violette, bluette, pansy purple, Alice pink, buttercup, absinthe and cafe au lait. And the beauty and vir- tue of these new tones is that they wash well. * Beautiful Gowns of the Summer. Such of us who live to see the summer ‘will be treated to a sight such as has never before greeted our eyes. We shall see the most marvelous beauties of dress worn in the most surprising ways, and we shall behold the most beautiful women dressed in the most exquisite manner. It is to be a summer of handsome dress. “Every gown will be a picture gown, yet there will be nothing bizarve,” sald a dress lecturer hired to deliver half a dozen lectures on dress to a fashionable audience. “And women will dress har- moniously. Colors will match instead of contrasting. We shall have few of the sharp contrasts in dress and more of the harmonies. And this is precisely as it should be. Women find that the one-color :Ihmo is more becoming than the tri- lor." Getting away from such glittering gen- eralities one comes to the more specific ol o very pretty ideas in dress. For ene thing, one notices the great prevalence of band embroidery. Linen dresses are embroildered by hand in the most beautiful manner. The white linen suits of last year are in style again, but the linen is muech more heavily and much more bounti- fully embroidered. Where there was a bud last year there is a whole bush this season: and whe: thers was & delicate spray there i3 now a most beautiful trellis. It is all a matter of growth and progress in‘the hand em- broidery line. There is a great deal of hand embroi- dery this season, but It is more elabo- rate in many ways. It is paddel to make it stand out and it is very thick- ly worked, so as to make the petals look more lifelike. They are padding the white embroildery and using very heavy padded stuff upon the new sum- mer walsts. One white linen walst was embroi- dered In big white roses, which were padded until they were thick and be: tiful. There are many ways of stuf- fing these roses, but the effect should always be smooth and natural And special care should be taken to work them so that they will wash well. Oth- erwise the ross work is ruined and all of the embroidery is lost—made worse than worthless. Making Up Your Linen Gowas. Washable summer dresses are to be made up In very pretty ways and among them there may be counted the dresses which are supposed to tub, whether they really do or not. Hven the gowns that are trimmed with satin ribbon and which really require the cleaner’s art are called tub dresses. And of this varlety there are hundreds and hundreds, all with certain claims to beauty. Raised embroldery will be used upon the pink lines, the ralsed work made to imitate pink roses and small pink flowers as much as possible. worn with long Pink llnens are strings of pink pearl beads wound around the meck twice and hanging down long. A pink pearl dog collar is also worn, Handsome sash ends, embroidered and hand painted, are to be worn. They are fastened in front with a big, hand- some metal button. Beautiful hand embroidery linen hats will be worn this season, and trimming the hats there will be big choux of pink ribbon and of pink velvet. These, by the way, will be adjustable, so that they can be taken off and blue put on if desired to match another costume. With white waists the sflvered ribbon sashes will be worn, and thers will be lively gilvered straw hats to accompany them. A set comsists of a silver belt with silver buckle, a hat trimmed with sil- vered ribbon and a pair of white tles, with some silver embroidery upon them. In these fancy things the summer girl will be very beautifully gowned, yet not too elaborately so for comfort. The linens, pink, lilac, green and blue, will be made up very plainly, much plain- er, In fact, than the white ligens. They will be trimmed with ralsed embroidery of exactly the same hue, while the back will be without embroidery of any kind and will be buttoned straight down from the back of the neck to the beit. There will be big pear! buttons to match—no matter what the color of the linen dress may be. It is mot linens alone that are to be made up In this manner, but organdies and lawns as well and all the transparest fabrics of summer. There are elbow sleeves, walsts buttoning down the back, skirts full and either cut off walking length or built to drag upon the ground a little, and girdles that encircle the waist coming up high upon the bust. These are the main points of the new summer dresses. Looking at them carefully. one sees that they are of a kind which a woman can make. And this is one of the very great things in their favor. Tney are not foo elaborate for hand manufacture at home, with the aid of some colored silk and a good seamstress.