The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 25, 1906, Page 12

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL RN A some n's age give a particularly 1if relieved black rying combina- face, which is most in way mark of life labeled “simple” or class form, whatever that when applied to a hat, is to g - ! $ 3 3 H $ SHALL not caution vel reading, Janet best you against for the very reasons I am very fond self, and & great e would go out it 1 knew that I should read another. There are novels A good many and belong to what may be either t is foolish to waste but among the good books that are ls- year good novels have a and if only as supplemen- , to throw an lllumination ur studies, they are well worth with mathematics and Latin, physics and botany, astronomy and IMt- erature, German, French and music, a schoolgirl's time is pretty well occu- pled. She must devote a portion of every Gay to exercise out doors or in, for without the gymnasium in winter M THE AT SHOULD PIRTCH THE b ZRERS 7" be av except by radiant beauties. Those so-called “classic lines,” when as- sumed by the ordinary mortal, look as if the milliner had tired of her labor before she was through, and the hat looks un- trimmed, or finished in a very great hur- ry. Every woman who can afford to buy and sunshine in summer no girj ean expect to acquire splendid health, that every girl should enjoy. Then, too, & schoolgirl does not stay out of bed after 10 o'clock at the latest. She must have two hours of beauty sleep before midnight. So, you see, Janet, that you and Gladys, Victoria and Ethel, must choose what books to read and what to leave unread. There are many amus- ing and quite respectable novels which would do you no more harm than cam- bric tea. But, on the other hand, they would do you very little good. You may as well leave them out of the reckoning until you have more leisure. Every schoolgirl desires to make ac- quaintance with the great masterpieces ot fiction. She must at least know by thelr titles the principal works of Sir Walter Scott. and must be familiar with some of his characters, such as Jennle Deans in “The Heart of Midlo-~ thian,” and Rowena and Rebecca in A\ Ny A 29) 16" iy ¢ 2 7 Zoh TR, a hat should at the same time be allowea to express her own Individuality in se- lecting it. But unfortunately a strong- minded woman entering a millinery shop quite too often leaves her presence of mind outside in company with her will power, and any suave and glib-tongued “Ivanhoe.” Girls used to be enthralled by Scott, but the fashion of novel writ- ing changes with every generation, and notwithstanding his magnificent genlus he seems prolix and tedious to many of the girls of our day. Yet if any of you determine to read thoughttully through the introductory chapters of a novel by Scott, you will come under his spell, and your Interest will not flag until you reach the last page. The excep- tion to this is in the case of girls who have been spolled by dipping too early into sensational romances. A schoolgirl should read “The Virgin- fams,” “Esmond,” *Pendennis” and “The Newcomes,” by Thackeray, and the should reap great sheaves of pleasure from “David Copperfield,” *“‘Dombey and Son,” “Little Dorrit” and the exquisite “Christmas Stories,” by Charles Dickens. Very likely she will find George Eliot too profound and philosophical, until she is older, but she may with profit and delight 2N {$ NRRARS W i) saleswoman can beguile her into the pur- chase of a hat which at any ather time would appeal to her as utterly inappro- priate. When she gets home her husband and family criticise the new hat. They are the true critics for her to go by, for they know and love her without any hat, The Masterpleces Every Girl Should Read—“A Bad Book Has No More Right in a Girl's Library Than a Bad Man Has to Be in Her Company.” How Mary Johnston Acquired Skill as a Writer. read all of Jane Austen that she can find in the library, including “Pride and Prej- udice,” “‘Sense and Sensibility,” *‘North- anger Abbtey” and “Emma.’” Mrs. Gas- kel's inimitable “Cranford” will be a de- light to any girl. It is one of the books that you are always supposed to ve read. There are a half dozen books by Mrs. Ewing, among them “Jackanapes” and “The Btory 6 a Short Life,” which cannot be passed by. Even though you read the peerless “Jungle Books” of Rud- yard Kipling when you were & little BQ, and they know the good points in her face and want them accentuated, just as they naturally want the less beautiful ones concealed. Don’t try your hat on for the first time when you have just come from the hairdresser, and then be astonished if it looks very different when you put it on with your hair out of curl and bad- ly dressed. If your hat is becoming when your hair is not dressed, it will be more satisfactory after a visit from the hairdresser. A word as to color: For the young and pretty face, almost any color is becoming, but as one ad- vances, more care must be exercised in the cholice of shades. If one can only afford two hats a season, the one for every-day wear should be of some neu- tral shade that harmonizes with the complexion—brown, for instance, buft color, gray or dull green. It should be chosen with due regard to the jackets which it will be worn with. The best hat need not be too dressy, or it will be inappropriate for informal occasions. A clever girl, whose incomé limits her to two hats, has the unique idea of “gmartening” her‘Sunday hat with a’ bunch of pink roses when she goes out n the evening. The hat is a black lace affair, and she pins the roses to the side of the hat with a safety pin where a touch of color is needed. If simplic- ity is desired, the roses are easily re- moved. A hat that is to be worn all the season should not be a “fad” hat. Just at present, the “fad” hat runs toward thing, you must read them again now that you are old enough to observe their singular and unequaled charm. It is & good plan to preserve alive one’s llking for the real children’s stories, the fairy- lore of the world. Among American authors you will not neglect Hawthorne, because his works be- long to the classics Read, preferably, “The House of Seven Gables.” Read Mrs. Stowe's “Pearl of Orr's Island” and Sarah Orne Jewett's “Country of the Pointed Firs.” Any book by Mary Wil- kins Freeman will be sure to please you, and Kate Douglass Wiggin in “Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm” and “Rose o' the River” makes & bid for your favor. Sarah Alexander In “The Day Before Yester- day” and “Beyond the Chance of Change” has written two storiés that every girl will enjoy. Make it a rule of your life, from which you will never deviate, not to read a book which is said to be unwholesome or bad. WOMAN ‘ ERINE ¥ % ™MOK’ \ P T 7 HAT SC7T7RBLE ALL silver or gilt trimmings® These are destined to livo oniy a short time in the approval of fickle Fashion, and will be- come too popular to be either distine- tive or distinguished. Fashion has decreed that a woman may dress her hair in the style which most becomes her. No hard and fast rule as to the coif- fure is possible, If the best expression of the face is to be brought out and natural charms enhanced. Fortunately, the high style of hair- dressing, now in vogue, is becoming to most women. Certain styles of low coiffure have a remarkable way of Imparting youth- fulness to a face, and if & woman can adopt that mode, she will do well to cling to It through the rise and fall of fashions. Curiously enough, it is the low dressing which suggests youth, and the low one, too, that nestles in the graceful hollow of a prettily rounded neck. With the prevailing fashion for drooping shoulders and flat collarless effects a style of low hairdressing is the inevitable decree, although to the low coiffure has been charged the drooping of shoulders In place of the bundling of the neck. It is far easier to secure a quaint and picturesque effect with a low colf- fure than with a high one, but there are many women who do not find this artistic and negligee fashion becoming. The half high style, which starts rather high and gives to the head a long, nar- row and graceful appearance, is better suited to them. Soft, big waves accompany either the high orlow style. To get a light, fluffy effect with a pompadour is one of the problems of the times. By many skill- ful maidens the roll is abandoned for a slight, wire frame which accomplishes the purpose without ' an undesirable massive appearance. The high fluffy effect is one in which a woman may smile bewitchingly, or frown with deadly effect, be graciously interested or severely Indifferent, be sweet, feminine, earnest, confiding, ca- pricious, arch, sly and even saucy to the greatest advantage. There are Madonna-like faces whose sweet serenity is enhanced by the plainest halrdressing. A Psyche twist and a fillet around the head is one of the styles. The flllet may be a part of the long chain or lavilliere which hangs about the neck, or a narrow bandeau of ribbon. After the Greek maidens who originated this style had dled it was revived centu- ries after through an accident that hap- pened to a court woman in the seven- teenth century. She had the King wound around her finger, and one day when she was at a royal hunting party the wind blew her pretty hair about and threatened her headdress. Just as the other ladies were hoping that a headdress awry would ruin her, she took off her ribbon garter and tied it around her head. She looked so tremendously fetching that the King was more in love with her than ever. Thus the fashion was set—a graceful and be- coming mode, which finds its exact coun- terpart in the fashion prevalent in classic times. Proper care of the hair is one of the duties most important to the woman who aims at looking her best. The most be- coming style of coiffure cannot atone for the lusterless tresses and unkempt strands. The growth of the hair shofld be stim- # % % MARGARET SANGSTER ADVISES GIRLS ABOUT READING % % % A bad book has nmo more right to be in @ girl's library than a bad man has to be in her company. Unless books have about them & wholesome, stimulating atmos- phere, waking up what is best in us, and quickening our powers, so that we shall live better lives and do Dbetter work among our friends, we would be wise to let them alone. A mnovel is simply a picture of daily lifa and manners in the time which, it de- scribes. The most successful writers are those who see most clearly and paint most vividly in words. It may be, Janet, that you will yourself, in some future day, join the crowded ranks of novel writers, If ever you do, your work will be colored and influencc.. by the books you are now reading. A good style both for writing and conversation is formed by the read- ing of well-written books. Of the gifted author of “To Have and to Hold,” a brilliant story of our history, I was told that when a child she was Feor OCCHSTONS ¥ ¥ ulated by gently rubbing the scalp dally with the tips of the fingers. A tonla should be applied at least once a week. A shampoo once Iin thres or four weeks is often enough if the hair is kept free from dust by frequent brushing. A too liberal usé of ammonia in washing the hair may turn it white. As it is cleansing, a lttle should be used occa- sionally, the proportion being a half- tablespoonful to a gallon of water. ‘Washing soda, too, dries and burns the hair, finally causing it to break and fall A valuable lotion for strengthening the color of the hair and preventing its turn- ing gray is made of four ounces of bay rum and one ounce of sulphur. Two hair brushes, not stiff enough to break the halr nor to irritate the scalp, and yet not too soft, are as much a ne- cessity for glossy, lfve hair as the brush is for the proper satin-like finish to & horse’s coat. A pomade is a necessary toilet article, particularly after middle life has been reached. This need of nourishment is not usually found when a woman is young. hence the brightness of the halr, even when carelessly kept. But the lack of a pomade 1S, undoubtedly accountable for much of the unlovely halr of people who are not yet in middle life. The hair is being starved. The least bit of the pomade is taken up on the finger tips, and five minutes spent in massaging the scalp hefore golng to bed. First take care that scalp and hair are free from dust. In the morning it will be surprising how the grease will have been absorbed, and it will not be long before the harsh, starved tresses will begin to show signs of nourishment and take on new beauty. Bear's grease held a high place as & promoter of the growth of the hair a few years ago. It is still in much repute, but it is not necessary to buy the bottled and labeled article at a high price, since its relation to any wild beast of the forest s most remote. The formula for its preparation is ons- half ounce of powdered gum bemsoin te one-half of melted lard. Stir well togeth- er, keeping it hot. Then let it settls, pour off the clear portion, perfume with a Ift- tle ofl of rose, and put in a wide-mouthed bottle. A pomade which has a lasting and flow- ery perfume is made of Lard .... 4 oss. Almong of! . 2 ozs. Oil of bergam: 20 drops. Oil of cloves . 8 darops. Ofl of rose § drops. Oil of flower of orange. § drops. Oil of jasmine ... § dropas. A violet pomade is mads of: Lard ...... b Almond ofl 4 ozs. Palm ofl ... 103 Attar of violet 0 drops. After meiting the lard and adding the oils, beat them up with a flat, wooden spatula for half an hour. As the mix- ture cools, add the perfume. Philocome, an old-fashioned unguent for the halr, is one of the best made. Its name, derived from the Greek, signifies “a friend to the hair’" It is prepared by meiting five ounces of white wax in a double boiler, with one ounce each of acacia, jasmine, rose and mercli ofls. Stir the mixture as it cools. Do not pour it out until it is nearly cool enough to set. Let the jar In which It 1s placed be slightly warmed, or at least of the same temperature as tne philocome. Otherwise the mixture is chilled as It s poured In, and appears of uneven grain. (CopyTight, 136, by T. C. MeClure) too fragile to attend school steadily, and that most of her education was d;:t;i;ne; as she sat curled UP In a corner of the sofa in her father's Uibrary. She had full liberty to redd whatever she liked, and she filled her mind and memory with sto ries of those Picturesque days when th; new world was conquered for civilization by the brave ploneers who came across the sea. The result was that Mary John- ston. when she reached ‘womanhood, Wrote books so true to life, so mu-t‘.c; and dramatic that thousands of people. gig‘::?_'youu. read them with fascinated If ever you zre tn doul and its Atness for you, ask semctody ::os; judgment you have confidence, -~ ether or not you would better give it the share of your t'me that it would take. All through life we are the better for now and then acting upon the advice of ex- perts. Your expert may be your mother Having. ssked wn oplin 1 o T an well to abide by it. <sorgiermy o