The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 28, 1906, Page 12

¥ The Washionable World Is Get- 3 ting Ready for a Very Lively Season and Pretty Gowns Are Made Up in Freach Fashion —Frehch Dresses, Costing 3 Little, but Bemutifully Trim- med, Are the Order of the and Well-Dreshed Wo- Are Taking Advantage Bargains Cheap, silkcs. Day mep in of the Lizht GOGGOSTNN0 NSNS STS055050%S, Saaaaaa il i Ol By AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. NEW ¥( Jan. 22, 1906 8. ASTOR three has new dered eve- gowns y dancing r Easter was but white taste. The youthful she be a the .most choose. B of thirty prettier to affect ned with it, or was in a sort of cotton, mot the ground- imprinted. ffeta trimmed violets It was sultable for and for any e occaslons Way to Make Your Gown. W your seem to arent, These ght at a great ess T i being wide make None of these fabrics needs g s 1s saved ese seve are tc e is making an ssmaker will make her g - kirt and she e ar e belt line. Around w a deep flounce and v t of the flounce with f 1 ribbo. ribbon ro- two tiny little stream- streamer she k rib- sh the head ace whee flounce same pi & very le is one which nsideration be made of gs and it must be buckled trimmed with with little rib- simple and but there must Dress Corefully and Tastefully. e won wh S to go In more . sively can obtain enough kid to = s fitting deep girdle. And le finishing. With the eted one has a very nice ere are other girdies, numberless have the same charad- that they are wide, heav- fitted to the figure. The mbroldered sflk ones are very smart in- while the crushed velvet girdles, in folds snd untrimmed save for etal slides and buckles, claim first place he wardrobe. But this is not a girdle tall It is r o discussion of evening gowns. 2 modiste remarked, “how is talk of evening dresses without oy one to @welling upon the girdle, for it has taken such a very prominent place in the sea- son's dress. The Empire dress for ¢vening is being adopted by a few, but for the most part they are women with many gowns. If is a mistake to make the Emplre if one is to have only a single gown for evening. But for the woman with six evening dresses ene gown might be & very handsome taf- feta, cut in Empire style, with the short walst and the twist velvet outlining the belt, which comes up right under, the arms. The skirt hangs full, with a flodnce perhaps. Or one can make a more mod- ern Empire, which has a longer ‘waist and is construgted of black dotted met over taffeta, or of black figured silk. This is a style much affected by tall, slender dowa- gers who aim at the picturesque in dress, of But the woman who wants to be pretty will not go to extremes. She will choose something rather conventional and will cling to it. Her salvation is in the pretty evening dresses that are easlly made and capable of a very dainty finish. The Dress of the Scason. One instance of this was noted the other day in looking pver Miss Roeseveil's trousseau. ‘Though the gown was far from elegant, yet it served as a text for a great deal more. It was reaity the guid- ing line to the other gowns of the trous- seau, for it brought out all the new points for evening dresses without going to ex- tremes. And here were some of the things that were noted rather hastily. First, that the color was Alice pink, which is a faint pink, ittle deeper than pastel. The material was peau de cygne, which Is like a taffeta with a very high gloss to it, shading into white and silver almost. The waist was cut rounding and very low, indeed. But to fill up the neck there was a yoke of Valenciennes lace, which was made by sewing the lace on so as to overlap, one row above the othen This takes two pleces of imita- tion Valenciennes lace half an inch wide. The yoke was high, forming a little lace stock and around the nack there was a tiny rim of pink pearls. The sleeves were the new elbow sleeves, cut off Dutch lengt a little below the elbow. They were finished in most simple fashion by being gathered with two rows of shirring. There was a tiny fall of lace not more ‘than two inches deep. The shoulders were full and were al- ined to puff out, for the very heavy and there were was THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. i SR JHELL PINK CHIFFON ~ lace epaulets over the shoulders. Cer- tainly they were gathered in a way to make a great deal of fullness at the shoulder. From the shoulder to the elbow they, narrowed rapidly, being fin- ished with a very little elbow shirring. The skirt of this very pretty dress was in pink peau de cygne, made with numerous insets of Valenclennes lace. Around the foot there was what,looked like a Grecian trimming of the lace, for it was lald upon the skirt in a big Grecian design and the material was cut out underneath. One of the most charming features of this dress was its lining, which was pink lawn. There was a pink lawn slip. And there was a pink lawn petti- coat trimmed with fluffy taffeta ruffies. This completed the very charming little trousseau gown except for the girdle, which was pink. Surely this gown is within reach of all who can make dresses. An Interesting point to note was the little knot of pink ribbon which lay alongside the waist. It was intended for the bair. There were three rosettes of pink ribbon fastened together with little pink silk bands. Into the ribbon were twined tiny sprays of fern. Anad the ornament was finished with a bunch of tiny white flowers. This was to be pinned upon the side of the coiffure. It was decidedly becoming and could be worn by either blonde or brunette. Gowns Trimmed With Fur. Furs are almost too dressy for the evening gown of the average woman. They give the gown a certain elegance which she scarcely likes to assume. Btill, if one has the opportunity for wearing such a dress, it is certainly very becoming. All kinds of fur are worn for evening, and all materials are trimmed with fur, Ermine, all white without the *eyes,” is cut In very narrow strips and used to trim the neck of the evening bodice, par- ticularly the bodice made of Louls XVI pink silk, or the bodice of flowered cream ellk. The delicacy of the fur treatment is apparent at a glance. The flowered silk, with its tiny border of ermine, is lovely, and if to this trimming be added -/ a few of the tiny ermine “eyes” sewed to the fabri¢ so that they lie like tassels around the neck, the effect is complete. Shirt walsts made of flowered silk are now wffered for sale for evening wear and very pretty they are with their Valencl- ennes lace {rimmings and their tiny ruf-- flings and quillings of silk. The idea of daintiness is carried out from neck to belt, and the waist is one that appeals to the woman who likes to be dellcgtely gowned. A flowered silk waist had a groundwork of deep cream almost deep enough to be called lemon color. It was high in the neck and was trimmed with many rows of lace set In to make an open Insertion, There was a strip of silk and a strip of lace. The sleeves were cut off below the elbow and were finished with many rows of shirring. A tiny fall of lace completed the sleeve at the elbow. 2 If you want something pretty for even- ing, why not try along the new lines? Get the littie novelties which are so nu- merous this year and so pretty. Among the evening novelties can be: noted the ‘walsts made of checked silk in tiny blue LNEXKTENSIVE BIIFIRE COWN OF ALICE 7Ny - CHRSHIER. v . v @ and white checks, and the waists made of tiny pink and white checks. These ar: trimmed with Valenciennes lace and wit! heavy Irish lace, with Itallan lace and with torchon, for there is no objection to the use of very heavy lace for the pur- pose of trimming a walst. Novelties ‘tn Evening Walsts. One of the loveliest of evening waists was made of a tiny pink and white silk gingham buttoned down the back with pink enamel buttons set in silver. Across the front there was a yoke outlined with heavy ‘Italian lace. There were three rows of lace, one falling over the other, to make a very smart yoke, The yoke idea, as here mentioned, is not new, but is the revival of a very old -fashion which has been out of date just long enough to make it seem new again. If vou are looking for novelties that will be becoming to you and quite Pari- sian, try an.evening gown made of in- expensive flowered silk with round walist and full skirt, the whole trimmed with lace and ribbon bows. Try making up a dinner gown of in- expensive fabric modeled upon French [ lines. You will soon see the truth of the statement that it depends not so much upon the materfal as upen the way it is made. For instance, lét the bodice be fitted closely to the figure with full shoul- der effect and tight waist. Try making up your biue evening gown with tiny rows of sable cut so narrow that it makes little more than an out- line of fur and then try trimming the stock and the girdle with many small fur tails. Try. just for experiment. the effect of a plain skirt tucsed half way to the belt and finished around the foot with a lace flounce lifted here and there with a rosette of lace with a button in the middle of each. : Try also. by way of experiment, to make a sct of handsomely embroidered buttons, Take a big flat button meld, cover it with & wheel of silk prettily hand embroicered and, in the very mid- dle, put a beaded design. Make enough TMOCK JEWELS. \_/ | CLASSROOM MORALS | BY MARGARET E. SANGSTER. (Copyright, 1305, by Joseph B. Bowles,) INOR morals? What on earth do you mean by that phrase” I seem to hear the query from a dozen girls, who look at me with reproachful eyes. Have we not been taught, they say, that right is right ana wrong is wrong, and there is no middle path? What are the minor morals? The girls wish to know. Let me explain. Let me slip into the classroom where a recitation is going on. Did I see Pru- dence hesitate for a brief second when 2 question was asked her, and almost im- perceptibly did Agnes move her lips and give her classmate the clew? I wonder. In old days, when Agnes and” Prudence had grandmothers who went to a little district school on the edge of a prairie on the slope of a mountaln, there was often more than this fleeting look. There was low whispering from one girl to an- other, or maybe a penciled slip was fur- tively passed under cover of books or slates. The clever girl with the well- prepared lesson, assisted her friend who had not studied, and a preoccuipied teach- er was none the wiser, but the teacher had been deceived, the unfaithful pupil had really suffered wrong still worse, the ideal of honor which should float be- fore a girl's mind been flawed through a false notion of friendship. Evil had entered the classroom and the minor morals were violated. Human nature does not change very much with the passing years. Your moth- er and your grandmother were girls just like you. The schoolraoms that are closed at night when you have gone home could tell many a tale if they chose. Would not you llke to feel that there is nothing in- visible written on the walls and the desks and the blackboards that would embar- rass you if suddenly the record should come plain in the eyes of your little world? There are girls who never appear to be properly fitted out with their own school furniture. They are compelled to bor- row pencils and pads and paste and crayons, and all sorts of things, and they do this with so charming a grace of these in different sizes to trim your waist and skirt. Try the new girdle, which Is fitted as mo It i snugly as your g boned and stiffened and emoroilered and n with a bow ladder up fron the one ck. The bow 13ed most decer: of tri ngs and is upon the gi . walst, es antl stock In the new “ladders” the bows are con nected by ribbon. Try the effect of not so much the na lace which is used upon eveninz waists forms almost the entire fabric. the silk being seen only here and there and very sparingly at that The Velvet Evening Dress. Try a gown of velvet for dingers and evenings, for card parties and receptions. You will not regret it, for velvet is very fashionable this year. Chiffon blue vel- vet in a pale Alice blue Is exquisite and it wears forsver and makes up into a lovely evening waist afterward. Such a gown, If made at home, is mot costly. It czn be easily' tashioned after a pattern, and it requires no trimming at all; 1t t eaply finished. n:)nz of the prettiest gowns ™n Alice Roosevelt’s trousseau is a pale blue chif- fon velvet, made with plain skirt shirred upon the hips and trimmed with a band of velvet around the bottom. The waist is bullt exactly upon the shirtwaist model with elbow sleeves, cut Dutch length be~ low the elbow, and a high neck finished with a lttle fall of lace. Pearls are worn for evening this sea- son, and a very lovely finish they make for any gown. The real pearls are, of course, desirable, but in’ these days of good imitations it Is almost impossible to tell the mock gems from the real “Wear pink and pearls,” advised a Wash- ington modiste when asked what would be the accepted thing for the coming very gay season.™ “Pastel pink and pas- tel blue will be the Washington colors. A lovely pink silk crepe was trimmed with pink chiffon taffeta. The pink tone was preserved throughout, save for the lace, which was put on in pale cream. With this very pretty gown there were worn strings of pearls, rath- or small and perfectly matched, while in the hair there was a lovely pearl or- nament set in a mass of tiny pink ro- settes. The woeman who is going in for a rather elaborate season must look well to her coiffure, for a great deal depends upon it this year. She must dress her hair nicely, for at the theater one takes off one's hat, while at the opera, at re- ceptions and at a1l nice functions the coiffure i{s much in evidence. The Fashionable Littles of Dress. The most fashionable little hair orna- ment seen at the opera the other even- ing consisted of a mass of tiny pink ribbon rosettes. These were set upon 3 bandeau of mock pearls. And the en- tire ornament was fastened across the back of the head in good old-fashioned style. Simple though it w ’ the keynote to the whole was in pink and cream The black evening dress is charming this season. It is very becoming to the debutante, who Is Wearing most daring of ways. A ve dressed girl wore an all bla silk, one of the # to the dowager: The figures in the were outlined with pink embrdide stitcnes. The skirt was entirely | relieved by not as much 2s a single e flounce or rosetté or an orndment of any kind. The coat was a Louls XV, buttoned with two immense pink velvet buttons: the vest was shell piak, but- toned with pink buttons and completed with white silk ruchings around the throat. YWhen the coat was slipped off which is quite the thing to de at an aft- ernoon tea, there was revealed a won derful lining of pink brocade, while the pink silk waist underneath was a mass of shirring and lace, with elbow sleeves and lace stock. It is absolutely necessary to speak of boots, for they are ¢ ng to the fore very elaborately. and one must observe them anew every day Women of smart tastes are matching them to the gown In rather startling ways. A pair of patent leather boots, with coral- ored cloth tops, went with a gown whose trimmings were coral, and the same woman boasts a pair of old-fash- foned mprocco boots. with tops of let- g tuce green to match the pipings of a hlack dress made with lettuce green trimmings. 'And there are other exam- ples of the matching of boots to gowns, but this suffices, as it gives the general clew. But interest now centers in the even- ing dress, for it is a very elaborate sea son. Women are boasting half a dozen pretty evening gowns, and the beauty of them !s that they cost very little— next to nothing, §s one might put It compared to the price of the full dresses of other years ® - that their companions disiike to say no and to seem disagreeable by refusing to cblige them. But after a while, when it is discovered that Gertrude invariably forgets to return what she has borrowed, that a book passing through the hands of .Grace comes back far the worse for wear and that, In short, neither girl un- derstands the distinction betwven mine and thine, Mary and beth, who are usually’ very well with school apparatus, grow tired of being accom- modating. Good manners, let me teli you, are good morals. _Bad manners, such as loud talk- ng (n plblic places, pushing and shoving in cars and on the ferry, omitting thanks for courtesies received, and comversation, belong category~of easily be that a sc the soul of honor, that she would sccrn to aceept help n any indirect way from a school- mate or a book, and that you could trust her with untold gold, but she may have rude and boorish manncrs all the same. I hardly dare mention such vulgar practices as the chewing of -gum, eat- ing peanuts in public or sitting in a ear and partaking of oranges and bananas when strangers are about Among the minor moralities most frequently invaded by young girls is deference to older people. You do not dream how beautiful It .is. and how well bred and attractive it makes a girl appear to pay courteous attention to her elders when they are talking, to listen to their stories, even though one has heard them before, and to hasten to the help of those who, by reason of years, have some’ infirmity. Politeness and grace should be auto- matic. If we have to stop and think about our manners, they will probably be clumsy. If we are in the habit of doing small, dishomest things, or tell- ing what people call fibs, evasions and the like, we shall one day be surprised by some great act of dishonor or find ourselyes involved In the tangled meshes of some shameful deceit. It !s well worth while, girls, to look care- fully out for the minor morals. Let us hold our standards high. If we are fastidious In little things, great things will never give us a moment’ » = ent’s uneasi