The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 21, 1905, Page 11

STANFORD STuDIO PHOTOS ILAN STRAW DERBY it long ago, that women ged to talk and fuss about their new their hearts’ content, but that blessed time e passed into oblivion. s men are interested in d a hat is not merely a keep off the rain >r the sun, be. Instead of a neces- f dress that sets r that dresses up a nds it smart. has long For men's covering ng suit and b In -the olden day er sex § when all the stern- anced about in buckled boots, and frilly, its sweeping g glory, and the trig jittle three-cornered cocked affair was always set upon the curls at'quite. the proper angle. Perhaps its wearer was & wee bit dandified and looked longer in the polished brass than was absolutely necessary, but at any rate he had the right idea, for a hat might just as well be becoming, for it makes all the difference in the world in ode’s appearance. The youth of yesterday thought that any old thing would serve the purpose, and went serenely and calmly on his way wearing the same headgear for every and all occasions. Perhaps he possessed a straw hat to wear on warm erbockers crown! gay with aays, but if he did he took strenuous measures to prevent it from fluttering off and leaving him alone, and the little black cord floating about hither and thither was eternally and forever get- ting caught, much to the amusement of his friends and to his own everlasting mortification. True, He sometimes boasted a high hat, but.a tuxedo one, never. - If he needed evening togs he 'clapped a yachting cap on three hairs and went on his way joyfully. Now ahd then, if the dignity of the family absolutely demanded correct dress, it was quite easy enough to borrow from some one who had been fortunate enough to have such a useless article passed down from generation to generation. But where is the hatless'man of to- day? He simply isn't to.be found, no matter if we took a microscope and ‘went on & tour of careful inspection. These days hats are hats, and the wearers are more nearly approaching the fastidiousness of thefr picturesque ancéstors than ever before. For several years the fine Panamas have held absolute sway, and no mat- ter how expensive they were, biff! and next thing they were gone. Pretty and vastly becoming with their quaint shapes they undeniably were, but, like - all fashions, they with their superior qualities grew tiresome, and the soft, SATIN FINISH BRAID WITH HIGH CROM EXTRA ROUGH BEAVER PRIVING HAT. flexible weave that has cost & small , fortune ‘and been the pride of its wear- er was carelessly tossed to the darkest corner of the cioset. Ip its place the felt hat reigned supreme for a season or so, but now it, in turn, has been rel- egated more or less,.and the chic straw bat is here in all its strength and might. Straw in allvarieties! TFine, coarse and medium, with a marked accent on the fine. ¥ A few years back any man would cheerfully pass out fifteen or twenty dollars for his wife's flowers and feathers, . but he would have thought the haber-dasher crazy had he asked him twelve and more for a simple straw hat trimmed with a nar- row black silk braid.” But the times have changed and so have the hats and, alas and alack, the price. One has nearly kept pace with the other and while the price has been-a'little the slowest and-the latest, it has by no manner of means been the least. Of course anything ‘good costs a good price, ‘and ceftainly these new toppqrp are fashioned of a beautiful ibraid woven in & skulled way and they have the happy knack of making one look as though one had just come over from Lunnontown, don’t you know! Some of the coarse ‘weaves are aw- fully smart, looking, too, and the well dressed ‘man who prefers the heavy THE SAN FRANCISCO 'SUNDAY CALI %»n F look, selects, not the medium weight and weave, but the extreme, and it looks most it when worn with a light gray suit and tan boots. Such a hat, by the way, i8 worn more by the col- lege man than any other, for it is sather youthful in appearance, and is a trifle too jaunty looking for the staid business man.who has the reputation of the firm resting on his shoulders. The derby devotee has ndt been left out in the cold either, for his beloved shape has been fashioned of the straw, dressed up with & black band, or with a colored one If it better suits his taste, and lo and behold he. is outfitted for summer without violating his rule of never wearing nwthln'l but a certain sort of hat, either. . The fancy hat bands, too, are mak- ing quite a brave showing of them- selves, especially in the country. where all the world and his wife goes for a week’s end outing, ‘Plaids, checks, stripes and figures and in every. color * under the shining sun. Blue and white in some neat design, blue with & fleck of red- and’'a bit of ‘green, brown changing to tan, checks and a muitl- tude:ot colors:so cleverly. blended: to- gether that it is difficult to give them summer nat both light in weight and delicate in color. In fact, it is nothing more ¢r less than a new blocked derby made in a dainty pearl gray and trimmed in a little different way. In- stead of the silkk band that has bgen used for years,.a wide felt. one has been substituted, and close to the crown, just connecting the brim and crown, is a tiny silk braid that gives the entire hat a particularly neat fin- ish. The outer edge of the brim is, of course, bound with the same shade of silk -binding, which not only makes it infinitely more durable, but more fit as well. The fashion for men's headgear has not stopped here either, for three brand new novelties have been unfolded, and do not 1ok as though they were ready 1o take wings and fly away to a. more friendly neighborhood. & One is a combination yachting and automobiling cap. Suitable, ' by the way, which is a great consideration when one-has both water and dust to ‘FANCY BRAID A PIN HEAD DOT: P LATEST into 'place agaln, and Mr. Yachtsman is ready to bow to the waves in all the bravery of a“fresh white cap. Half a day later he may be speeding toward home with a jaunty gray or tan one resting lightly and easily upon his head, grinning deflance at the dust and grime as he whirls along. ‘While this may be the day of fast machines and touring cars, the horse lover is not entirely non est, and fash- ion as well as necessity demands that something nobby be made for him. The tailor Insists that a light tan.or gray is the:only proper driving coat, and he further insists that it be big and loose and bulky. In fact, it is nothing more . or less than a park coat, for it is too heavy and too light in tone for ordi- nary street wear. P Such a coat built on the newest plan _of the year needs a fit and eomfortable firish and a durable one as well, by the way,” for the winds and fogs take a particular delight in playing havoc with the ordinary ‘day sort of hat. So the beaver has been borrowed from the flexible as can be. When the sun takes it into his head to peep into the eyes OUTING HAT , FANCY BRAID L WITH “WOOLEN h TRIMMING S, ol HATS FROM TOM DILLON Co. has had the pleasure of sitting com- fortably on it for a Zood half hour or so. The new cowboy hat is afiother novel- ty that has taken the eye of the camper and of those who still cling to the old- timed broad-brimmed, comfortable fa- vorite: Instead of being brown or tan, according to one’s complexion,it is mot- tled and looks not unlike the hide trim- mings that have had such a run by those who were fortunate emough to pessess a fat pocketbook. The size and- block is quite the same, and so, too, Is the finishing band, but the effect of the hat is entirely different and infinite- ly more fit. Probably one reasom why men are taking so much more interest in their " headgear than heretofore is for the simple reason that their hats are fitted these days and being shaped to the head does away with the necessity of spending half of their time racing mad- 1y down the street in pursuit of a play- ful cart wheel that takes an unholy de- light in keeping just an armslength out of reach. Nine-tenths of the men go i