The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 21, 1905, Page 10

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALIL. to give r woman's e time dis- that go with stockings are than the said of men gaod sing kings that the in good orders ) very hav relation b and gs a t reckoned as an not elr r0es Jlue dress, for blue shoes and And there are the colors in the et wear. The capable of color being e, they with St ornamented is a suit undressed kid with stock- d by dots A very ertainly not to s possible in £ the general becoming fo nd for the shoes to be provided with a good o be worn at dif- with each £ the burn day. The on an- swere sor o by remarking she did not consider any one old until he became an octa- or, perchance, the use of his idiomatic. The s badly mixed, of doing; but 1 glimmer of good she said. If it is true wor ks v eds, mot years; in thoughts, mot r figures on a dial o business to affix the epi- to some men because they 60 or even 80. comes vouth down the = rdly out of his teens. He is y dressed, has the entree of clubs and social “circles, has road several times. You would casual glance at him the heyday of his from a in youtk wait until you know him better. You will find that the adjec- tive blase fits him exactly. He has be surfeited with the sweets of life; he s dipped into everything that is going. Alas, he has altogether too much knowledge of the seamy side o? life; he has no ambition and few ex- pectations, Here comes another man down the street. His head is white with the snows of many winters, but his form is erect, other. In that way they much longer, but keep th not only last 1pe bet- ter, especially if shoe trees are used when the shoes & “resting.” The “‘trees” keep the-shoes from wrinkling and also from the resultant small cracks that eventually wid and spoil the shoe. It is the work of but a moment and no trouble at all to insert the trees, and I consider it advisable, ceount of the appe: nee and jon of the shoe. Shoe e very inexpensive, and pay for themselves many times over in a ghort time. For morning wear in the summer time tan shoes seem to me to be the prettiest color. One style that ap- pears to be very popular just now is called the “slipper shoe,” or some- times the “walking pump.” An illus- tration of it is given: here, as seen in figure 1. This particular shoe is so much the fashfon at present that it is made in, 2ll colors and in alk kinds of kid. It can be wern: with a flat bow, or with a bow made of inch-wide gros “grain ribbon and #led in the usual manner. For a large foot the flat bow is somewhat trying, because it seems to accentuate the length of the foot, while the tied bow has the opposite effect. This pump can be fashioned in many ways, although this yvear t =hoes are more pointed at the toe th they have been for some time. Be- sides this, heels are higher than be- fore—too high, in fact, for comfort or his face is beaming with kindness and good will, his heart is young. The world opens itself freshly to him with each new dewn. He has the sense of won- der and anticipation which we asso- ciate with little children. He has had his share of struggle, disappointment and sorrow, but he has kept his faith in God and his fellows. Now, why should you call him old, and the victim @ : and of ennui young? Or, if you would thus characterize either, why not specify exactly what you mean by the use of terms which, if not clearly defingd, carry with them an- undue measur either of commendation or opprobrium? What shall we do with old men? A great physician rises up and declares that they ought to be retired from re- sponsible positions. His dictum starts the pen of the funny paragraphers the country over, and all sorts of methods of disposing of septuagenarians are proposed, ranging from chloroforming ta shooting in cold blood. But when we come right down to the serious point of e health—and, 1 might add, for safety. Only very recently we have seen ac- counts of three theaters being closed on account of tHese very high heels. The accidents that obliged them to close were due to the high heels worn by Mrs. Leslie Carter, Mrs. Patrick oo e O issue we must admit that the increas- ing valuation placed upon young men in business and professional life ren- ders old age a precarious season for many of our fellow men. New Zealand has met the emergency by its system of old age vensions, and Dr. Edward Everett Hale in this country advocates State provision for men who have passed a certain milestone. Personally, we may have little to do with solving this question on its econ- omic side, but we ought to maintain the true perspective. Old age need not necessarily be a drug in the mar- ket. Think of the stored-up wisdom and experience in the minds and hearts of old men whom you know. Young men must fight the battles and do the hard work of the world; but their energy and initiative need to be bal- anced by the insight, judgment and conservatism of older men. The world would swing too far and too rapidly toward radicalism were it not for men who have been mellowed, ripened and broadened by many years of action. But what can-the old man do with himself? Well, he cannot begin all at once when he is 60 or 70 and say, “I will have a -Happy and beautiful old age.” That desirable status has to be planned for in advance. If the advice, “In time of peace prepare for war,” be worth anything, far more valuable is the counsel, “In time -of youth prepare for age.” Lay up the dollars if you can, so that you will not be dependent upon others; but lay L2 O~ & Sige RPHOTOS &, B NS s Campbell and Miss Virgina Harned, and resulted in “lacerated. ligaments,” sprained ankle, or water on the knee. It is plain, therefore, that whoever adopts this high *“military heel” must walk with the greatest circumspection, particularly in descending stairs and in getting out of carriages or cars. The “slipper shoe,” when made of patent leather, is often bound on the top with ribbon haif an inch wide and the effect is very pretty. The hand- made walking slipper is expensive, but very nice, because it is made of one plece and is without seams. I saw these in Boston (the fatherland of shoes) anc I do not feel sure that they can be bought here. As I said before, these shocs are made in all colors, dut the “clectiic’ blue ones seem to me to be particulariy fasciniting. “A friend of mine fi'om New York I thought ex- ceedingly 'smyrt in a walking suit of electric biue [pongée, with walking Fumps to match. Tlese uurxgu are .ade in either a light or heavy weight, the light weights ‘beiag generally of white kid, and they do not have the eavy extension soles{ or ‘verandas,” Rt George Ade called them, that are so grequently seen on the heavier shoes & biack calf or patént leather. In up even more sedulously those inward resources which will alone make life bearable at that season and make your company agreeable to others. You, don’t want to be in the class of people who .re not wanted by and by. Look well then to your inward resources. See that you keep your mental elas- ticity, your spiritual susceptibilities. Add day by day to your fund of cour- age and good cheer. Acquire some re- serves of faith and hope and love, on Wwhich you can draw when “the grass- hopper becomes a burten.” In other words, as the body ages, let the spirit grow young and strong. There are certain preventives against. the aging of the spirit. A man is as old as he feels himself to be in his in- most heart, and not a ‘day older, And one of the best safeguards against the aging of the soul is to wrap it round with a sense of immortality; the sense that life here merges sooner or later into a life ampler and grander beyond the/grave. The statistical difference between youth and age fades away when we think of the years of eternity, in comparison with which’even the longest earthly life is like the swift passing of a summer’s day. New York, red walking slippers are worn a great deal on the street, but here, as we are not yet accustomed to them,” they would no doubt appear outre and loud. As a substitute for the slipper shoe and the objections to them have to be considered, the half-shoe or tie seems to be always in good form. Tan’colct scems to m> to be the best, but large feet will ceitainly look better in black. These shoes are made in two styles, lace and button. There is also a very good style called the button tie, which can Be seen in the illustration, figure 3. It is usually made of soft black leather, cut ¢ff at the ankle and but- toned with good-sized shoe buttons, and- it gives an English appearance that is considered smart. As will be seen in the illustration, the toe is quite point- ed and the heel very high, while the sole is a little extended and of me- dium weight. Figure 4 shows a more dressy tie, which is made of soft kid, bronze or patent leather, has no ex- tension scle, and is laced up with a wide gros grain ribbon. Figure 5 il- lustrates a shoe that will be of im- pertance to the summer girl. It is made of white canvas and should be worn only with linen or duck skirts. The canvas shoes are no doubt satis- foctory because they can be easily cleaned, but the kid pump, which is very much in vogue in New York, is tle daintier. High boots are, of course, net much worn in summer, but if they are preferred, buttoned boots are more stylish than laced boots, and the high military heel and the pointed toe form the proper style. A low shoe is, how- ever, much prettier, and. it is also covler, and then there is the chance 1 » ) to display the pretty and appropriate stockings. In evening slippers fascinating ef- fects can be produced. It seems to me that it would have been a ghod subject for ‘'Lady Duff Gordon to interest her- self in, if indeed she has not already done so. With emotional gowns there surely ought to be coquettish or “twinkling’" slippers. They should be not only appropriate, but piquant and suggestive. It is in the evening slippers that the French excel, although the French shoes do not offen suit us. And there are many people who will not wear any slippers but those of French manufac- ture. The strap beaded slipper shown in the illustration marked Figure 10 gives unmistakable evidence of beinx of French make. Nowhere but in France would a slipper be made but- toned up like a boot, but at the same time so open as to display all the beauty of a smart stocking. This slip- per is made in soft shiny black or bronze kid, and should be worn only with a light colored fancy stocking. The bronze slippers are particularly pretty, as the bronze beading is bright and attractive. The illustration mark- ed Figure 11 shows a very good style of low slipper in black beaded kid. It can be worn with a ribbon bow or not. as desired. It is also made with a cross strap that goes over the instep and buttons at the back on the top of the slipper. Another style of slipper, which is very_attractive, is shown in the illustration marked Figure 12, called the “Florodora” slipper. made in black, white or red satin and has the merit of making the foot look véry short, which is accomvplished by the combination of a very high heel and a very short vamp. Occasionally small tulle pompons are put qn these slippers, producing a somewhat more dressy effect, besides apparently dim- inishing the breadth of the foot: The colonial slipper is not much worn this year. Indeed it seems to have gone out of date entirely, except those THOES TR~ FATFAANDY S . S f made in black or not only pretty and becoming, but they are exeeedingly easy and comfortable. They may be worn on the street in the afternoon for calling or to teas. To keep slippers in good condition, the Shneltrer‘s should be kept in them, and they should be wrapned In soft flannel. Patent leather shoes or sliv- pers can be kept from cracking by be- ing wrapped in flannel and protected from the air. uede. These are STOCKINGS. This is not only an important subject, but is one of such wide range, both as to style, taste and cost, that £ is a little difficult to deal with it satisface torily. When one considers the differ- ent maferials of which stockings are made, woolen, cotton, thread and silk, and the wide difference in their cost, from fifty cents to twenty dollars a It is—pair, the difficulty can be appreciated. Then again, there are tha different styles, heavy, light, opes-work, em- broidered, plain, fancy an¢ art stock- ings. To those w6 prefer silk stock- ings and can afford them,; I can only say that Paris is the place ‘o buy them —both for their variety and price. My recollection is that in Paris I could buy heavy silk and embroiderel stockings for nine francs a pair—or a little less than two dollars. I sawthere some wonderful spangled stockings that caught my fancy, but the price was prohibitory. Still they were so attrac- tive that I was unwilling to give them up altogether, and finally thought that with a little ingenuity I could manu- facture them myself. I purchased a pair of plain black silk stockings and had a pattern marked on them, and sewed gold spangles on the stamped pattern, and the result was very satis- factory. I saw in the Bon Marche in Paris a pair of spangled stockings in the design of a snake twisting up the leg. It is needless to say that the cffect was very striking. Tan shoes require tan-colored stock- ings, of whatever kind the taste of the Wwearer may dictate. Lisle thread open work stockings are always pretty, and the new “Lisle Met,” although not very durable, is now considered very attrac- tive. Thev are so thin that they re- semble gauze. You see these stock- ings in white, tan and black colors. They were much worn in the East last summer in the hot weather, in spite of the fact that it presents a somewhat bare appearance. Stockings with clocks, though old as time itself, are always stylish and pretty. The silk stockings, with lace let in, for evening ‘Wear, are charming in appearance but very high in - price. The stockings shown in figure 12 are made of heavy ‘white or corn-colored silk, embroid- ered in light green fern-like branches or vines, embellished with French dots in the center of the tiny flowers of delicate red and white alternately. The spiral or twining shape of the embroidery is very effectice. In fig- ure 6 there is shown a pair of heavy black silk stockings, embroidered in ‘white, the heavy embroidery being made of small crepe ribben. Thése are very handsome stockings and the em- broidery is the finest Fremch hand- work. Figure 11 displays a very elab- orate French stocking for house wear, although the embroidery is piled on so thick as to seem in bad taste. With white shoes, white stockings must be worn, and a great variety of them can be found either in white silk or in lisle thread, and either embroid ered or oven work. They are partic- ularly aporopriate for summer in the country.