The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 30, 1904, Page 8

The new art cloaks are won- derful things, fashioned of hand- some material and specially de- signed to show the wn under- neath. Bewitching gowns that are displayed as the long cloak fiies opeh. Pretty and fashion- | able things for the woman of | winter to wear. * - . 2 BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. o HE Dowager Duchess of Man- chester wears a semi-long cloak, which she calls an Art Nouveau Sarah Bernhardt wears a long cloak which she calls her Art Nouveau cloak. And three society women of New York are wearing coats of this same description. All things point to the artistic new cloak as the fashionable garment of the winter—the Art Nouveau. This cloak comes in varioys styles end one can get it short, with flying fronts, or one can get it long and dou- ble-breasted, effectuzlly corcealing the gown underneatk. There are many things about the new cloak which are very much in its favor, one being that it can bk made to hide the gown. If one has no dress to wear, nothing that will pass muster in & fine assembly, one can put on an Art Nouveau cloak and be aiways cor- rect. . It is woman's duty to herself and to her family &nd to the world to invest this season in one of the new long clo: It need not be of the ugly thrée-quarter variety, which requires an angelic figure, nor need it be one of those heavy things that seem to swallow you up in its depths. Nor should it be an ulster or anything of that nature. The ulster and its near cousins are all very well for rain coats and for auto coats and for utllity wear, but you want a pretty cloak for nice days. s Your new cloak should be cut in the mew way, rather long, rather straight, rather trimmed in the front and with the back looking as though it were box plaited at the shoulders. Or it can have Japanese tendencies and hang very much like a kimona cloak. You n take your choice, for both of these $tyles are very becoming. But of one thing be very certain. Your new cloak must be of the very best material. It must be handsome in pattern and itshould be so abundantly trimmed that it will be a picture in Itself, even without counting the grace and beauty of the wearer. And that is what constitutes an Art Nouveau. The old-fashioned autemobile cloaks were not pretty. But the new ones are lovely. Made of handsome cloth, some- times beautifully figured and supplied with from one to three degp collars anG shoulder capes, they are things of much grace. Then. too, the trimming of the new- fashioned automoblle cloak is some- thing not to be forgotten. The front is faced and trimmed with a deep band of brocaded satin. one of the durable qualities that wi! stand the dust of the road. Alongside the band of satin there is a trimming of passementerie. Coats for Dust and Rain. All the coats are distinguished by their nice trimming. Even the storm coat f& trimmed and there is 2 hand- some collar and there are deep satin cuffs. And running through the trim- mings are dashes of color. If you select your own auto cloak why not choose & shade of ten and trim it wilh trimmings which there is & note of scarlet. You will want a little border of green passemen- terie and you will need a hat with sc; let and green suggestions. In this manner you can secure a very pretty automobile outfit. Mrs. George Gould came dashing down Fifth avenue last Sunday morn- ing in her automobile driyen by her husband.: Mrs. Gould \\'ora long bis- cuit-colored cloak lined with scarlet. The coat was trimmed with golden brown satin, embroidered by hand in twe or three shades of brown. Her hat was a brown felt, tied over her ears with a golden brown veil. Her face was uncovered. She wore no goggles. The rain cloaks and the dust cloaks are really remarkably handsome, but one does not call them stylish. Many of them though, for that matter, would adorn a fashion page very beautifully. There aré the most delightful storm coats which are waterproof, yet which look exactly like silk. They are cut in the fashionable shapes and the woman who goes out a great deal wouyld do well to secure one. A very smart raincoat looked pre- cisely like white satin. It was really one form of prepared rubber and it was warranted to shed the rain and the dust and to come out as good as new after washigg. 1Its cuffs were black and its trimmings were blue and black. 2ut it is to the afternoon and even- ing coats that one turns with a feeling of deep affection, for they are so beautiful, so becoming, so full of charm. The gowered silks make up hand- somely, and Jf one can secure a silk that is not too heavy the result is bet- ter than though the silk were thick. The soft figured Oriental silks are the best in every way if one can secure a quality that is of the right color and welght. And many of the Nouveau Art cloaks are fashioned of this silk. A lovely cloak was made of dark brown silk; cigar colored, you would have called it, with roses and violets em- broidered on it in their natural colors. The cloak was marvelously expensive. for the work was all done by hand. But the work certainly opens up pos- sibilities for the girl who can em- broider. Embroider Your Own Cloak. Suppose one were to take 2 mold brown satin, soft, heavy, lus- trous, ideal in every way. And sup- pose one werc to embroider It with gprays of small roses tied in bunches with yviolets thrown in, And suppose one were to scatter these over a cloak. Think how charming the result would be. The cloeak can be cut full and made up before the embroidery is done, as the results are prettier that ‘way. A society woman of New York took enough deep blue satin for a loose three-quarter cloak and made it up with, Bfum sleeves and a plaited back. -She then had it stamped with small roses, uurm_-u ‘working them ’ a3 leat SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY 'CALL. TRINTMED Wiy FULGARIAN AinDds AND crrvy~ ZacE) = by hand. The elfect was simply beautiful, and the cloak will wear for- ever and be an heirloom afterward. | Women should be devoutly thankful this season for the Oriental stuffs and, under this heading, come the Armen- ian and Roumanian embroideries, the Indian stuffs and handsome Persian trimmings and those curious Russian bands which make such beautiful belts and neck trimming. These can be bought by the yard and used tastefully Nn many. ways. There is something very attractive about an “Oriental trimming. It Is dainty and always in good taste, while its colors are so bright yet so charm- ingly mingled. Many women make it a pastime to remodel old gowns by trimming them with Oriental bands and they use them for revers, for hi and waist yokes, for epaulettes and for < _ % girdle trimmings. And it can be said o 3 that old gowns are wonderfully resus- i citated in that manner. 4 . For evening wear it is best to slit the three-quarter cloak on each side to allow for the fullness of the skirt and there are very pretty street cloaks * that are slit up in the same manner. A great deal of attention is being paid to the matter of linings and, when Miss Alice Roosevelt threw baek her cloak the other evening, the eyes of the ‘women traveled toward her lining, The lining is such a telltale of the cloak. Miss Roosevelt's coat, which®was a long one, rather straight in its lines, was lined throughout with Uberty. It was faced from ¢, S GREEN CrEPE Conn ' to the belt with a wide band of Per- sian in many colors. Little embroid- ered butterflies were scattered over the lining throughout. The Coat of a Mandarin. Exduisite stuffs are bought and ruth- fessly cut up for evening wear. One of the most popular of evening cloaks is made out of a mandarin’s robe. If you have a friend going to the Philip- pines give him a commission to bring back the robe of a mandarin. He can buy it there for a song cdmpared to the price in this country. The mandarin robes are worn almost without alteratior. It would surprise ¥ou to see how little they are changed after they are bought from the man- darin and presented to my lady. There s very little shaping done and the robe is slightly fitted to the shoulders. It is cut right length or turned up so that it hangs even with the floor, and that is all. The modistes insist that the proper length is just about a three- quarter, not fidor length, though a great many people persist in wearing the cloaks so long they drag. Perhaps the handsomest garments ere made from smooth faced cloth, which comes in the softest and dain- tiest of colors, and there are the gentle tones in coffee tints and in all the burnt shades. And there are all the soft or- chid.and shell pinks. One can get al- most any pale shade one wants and can absolutely match a hat, a feather, a neck ruffle or any other article of ap- parel. It is very chic to purchase a cloak that matches the feather on your hat or to buy a feather to match your cloak. You now feel as though you had begun to fit yourself out with good taste. It is to be the style this winter to wear things that harmonize. Last win- ter they wore things that actuvally matched. But this year it is more a search for harmony. The pinks and tans and peach colors are in the lead for evening effects, with turquoise blue coming closely after. Leather is worn a great deal for evening and there are glimpses of it seen in the yoke trimmings eombined with lace. Think of leather and lace! Yet you see them wused together in bandsome Paris gowns every day. One of the most exquisite dresses of fall was in & wonderful shade of /;“; prown, the new brown. It is a gor- geous tint wHich looks almbst red. This gown was made up with a little fancy Eton effect cut out in a vague way and edged with narrow ruffling. The skirt was ruffled and so were the sleeves. But the odd part consisted in the medallions of suede, in a shade of tan and in the middle of each suede medallion there was a little rosette of lace with an embroidered pansy, set in the center. Suede {s cut out in eyelet work, looking like English eyelet embroid- ery, and these bands are used upon skirts at thé head of flounces and as a border to Armenian and other kinds of embroidery. But more often one sees these bands of cut out suede used as a heading for the most beautiful Bands ,of fine lace insertion. Truly a {nee}{n{ of extremes—Ileather and ace! Abundance of Trimmings. The making of a cloak is much sim- plified this winter by the abundance 6f handsome trimmings that are of- fered. ‘Take, for instance, the lova.y medallions that can be bought. They come in all sizes up to the bigness of your hand. And these can be taken and applied to a cloak in most fetcn- ing ways. - And, speaking of prices, how much one can do with @ very little money! The other day a woman with a dollar to spend on lace garnitures went forth in despair. But after she had sh awhile she found that she could buy lace both circles and squares, larger than a silver dellar, in ' pretty patterns, in either tan m or white, all for the sum figlgr.cet;:‘:: For § cents ’h;’. could buy some very pretty medallions of a slightly smaller size. NQW, v:j!.h gar- nitures as cheap as this, it does not look as thdugh a woman need go rimmings. w'ém“gls‘ are to be worn in Temark- ably pretty ways. A white feit turban, rolling up all the way around, was trimmed with white Tflflk fringe. he cloak was trimmed with fringe, which fell around the collar. and the skirt way trimmed with a wide flounce, Which was headed with a looping of the rrxAng(e‘.umm and pretty costume began with a white rough felt hat. soft as velvet and almost shaggy in its depth. Its only trimming was a beaded trim- ming which extended around the brim. Loops of black beads were caught all the way around the brim and I(A!lfin;: here and there with jet buckles. course, the coat and the skirt were trimmed with yards of dangling jet strings. The fad for dressing ’“, black and white has crept in and it seems in strange contrast to the brilllancy of the Oriental trimmings and very restful to the eye at the same time. ‘Wonderful Oriental trimmings, so gay that they are almost barbarian in their splender, are worn one day and the next there is a gown which shows no colors .except black and white. Jets, passementeries, white lace and black broadcloth make the ingredients for a handsome gown. The black and white gown, called the magple, is fashionable just for the mpment in New York, while in Paris they are wearing turquoise and black and turquoise and white. And in Lon- don they are wearing pink and black. and the pvink is the shade known as blotting paper pink. It Is a very soft, pretty color, just the thing to combine with black or with white. Wear These Fashionable Calors. A woman wrote to a friend in Paris to ascertain the fashionable shades, and this was her reply: “Wear ash gray, Havana brown and smoke blue. Sometimes wear gunpowder blue and celery green or spinach green. Rose, heliotrope, orchid pink and blotting paper pink are seen a great deal and champagne yellow, fvory white and pearl gray are worn by the best dressed people in town. Deon’t forget that seal- skin brown is very smart and that chamois yellow and raspberry red are also worn, as are mink brown, mignon- ette green gnd pansy purple. Opal yel- low is for evening wear, lemon yellow for dinner and evening and tuznquoise blue for day or night.” The woman who wants to dress well, and there are few women who do not, will accomplish her purpose a great deal more certainly if she V§il bave an eye to the harmonies of dress. [f she will. consider its requirements shé must realize how and why, when and Wwhere the gown is to be worn. An excellent example of this was af- forded recently by a woman who went into a fashionable dressmaking estab- lishment to purchase a gown. “I want a dress,” said she, “to wear with a long cloak. My cloak is made of black broadeloth, with a box plaited back. It is three-quarter length, is trimmed with silk cords, silk fringe and silk tassels. It opens down the front and fs always worn open.” “Then,” said the modiste, “I would suggest a gown trimmed down the front with a bodice with a vest effect. As the coat flies open this handsome front trimming will be very effective.” So she made a gown with a ruffled lace vest, the lace ruffles all escaping down the front of the vest, each ruffle trimmed witch a little colored silk em- broidery, and the skirt was made with a marvelous scroll work of silk shir- rings, with handsome velvet rosettes set in the middle of the shirrings. Around the foot of the skirt there was a handsome flounce with silk shirrings and rosettes With a three-quarter cloak this gown was charming. Match Your Cloak to Your Gown. It is not always that a woman can match her cloak to her gown, but she can very often do so. Even when they do not match in color and in material they can be made to harmonize in other ways. The cloak can be cutsso as to show off the trimmings on the gown or it can be trimmed with the same kind of lace or, perhaps, with fringe to correspond. So much depends upon this preser- vation of the harmonies that a woman is wise who thinks first of harmony and afterward of color and material. It takes only a touch, just the slightest thing, to bring the two Into keeping with each other. ° The conscientious fashion writer is called upon these days to give advice, and; like the doctor, the clergyman, the lawyer and all other professional ad- visers, she must do the best she can by those who make inquiries. To the office.of a well known fashion magazine there traveled the other day a letter from a reader asking how she could purchase handsome trimmings at a low price. “I am anxious,” said the writer, “to be well dressed. But I find the materials so very expensive. A sin- gle yard of passementerie costs upward c¢f $10 and a handsome yard of lace costs anything you want to pay for it How, then. is a woman of economical tendencies going to manage to look well and be suitably dressed?” To this question there are many re- plies. But the most rational suggestion of them all would be to choose cheaper trimmings. And there are cheaper ones which look very well indeed. Cordings of the shirred variety can be mentioned as one form of a cheap pretty trimming. With a yard of white sztin cut on the blas one can make a great quantity of shirred cording. the cords vary in size, and use thl:n: I different. ways on the skirt. A woman who is noted for her taste in dress obtained a really handsome effect by taking two yards of celery green satin, which she cut into narrow strips and used for shirred cordings. One very large cord headed the deep flounce on Mer skirt. A smaller cord- Ing” odtlivged a band of lace insertion and still more cordings trimmed the waist. The result was remarkably pretty and cost comparatively little. Fold trimmings are inexpensive and very pretty and there is such a variety of folds that one need not fear monot- There are all kinds of folds, from the tiny fold which is called a piping to the wide fold which is box plaited and stitched around the skirt as a trimming. One can get some k. p B B T T