The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 11, 1904, Page 13

“Stanfor A trArS - ~ — [ 4 umer £ she wishes to imi ess of T a so well n me sixty odd acts on rket that may be ad for the e sasking. Every flower is ed and dozens of een utilized and even in- £0 that each and every one of ate od may be distinctly ized In some fashion. There are not many pomades or that are advisable to make me, but the old-fashioned rose st be kept well filled and this most decidedly is work for home hands, The g s to strip the roses. BEe careful to keep the leaves entire if can, for they are not only prettier, but seem to retain their odor far better. There are two Ways to make a pot- pourri, and one is just about as good as the other. Put absolutely nothing into the receptacle but the petals of the roses and salt Rose petals, by the way, must be used for all foundations, &3 no other flowers will hold the flavor of itself. Alternate layers of rose petals and salt, pressing the salt down upon the peta When the scent be- comes evident any other fragrant flower or petals or even leaves may be added, such as viocleta, lemon ver- bena or geranium leaves. Cover the jar with a tight N4 and after a day or so the room will be flooded with a deli- cious perfume every time the cover is removed, and by being a little careful the jar will be a perfect well of sweet- ness for months at a time. W14 roses gathered during the sum- months are most desirable, for breathe an odor peculiarly their If one cannot collect enough to er the purpose, the petals of va- cultivated roses may be added end yet there will longer be a faint suspicion of the woods. e other way is a trifie more com- In the first place the leaves sun dried and the care should be taken to hey do not gather mold dur- ress. Up and down, over y should be turned, for iecayed odor which lingers i is anything but agreeable. t of this potpourri lies in ients. The petals are a jar or bowl, with rs of salt. Cover the top with a plate or something fit down snugly. Every r b remove the cover mer ed jar and stir the contents up his each day for one week, nd of which time add three ce. f alispl Then mix and stir rning for three days eful to add each day of an ounce of alispice and e the contents of the pot- v to be placed in the ., in which it is to re- few that people as well as at flowers are like o as in a , it behooves women t es with ca: count of the effect but upon themselves as well, for no one wishes to be made the victim of flower scents. Answers to Correspondents —_ s TREATING ENLARGED PORES. (Marjorie).—It will require persistent effort and considerable time to re- duce the size of enlarged pores caused by pressing out blackheads, but if you will faithfully follow directions will see a declded !mprovement in two months—perhaps less. Friction, a complexion brush, accompanied by the liberal use of hot water, soap and an astringent lotion, are necessary to subdue enlarged pores. Distended pores catch and hold an immense amount of !mpurities, so that unusual care must be bestowed upon washing the face, for all grime and waste mat- ter must be eradicated before the pores will close to the normal size. Hastily closed, without sufficient puri- fication, will surely result in pimples. Allow at least one-half hour each night before retiring to treat the face, for the manipulation of the skin is of paramount importance in effecting a cure. With hot water and a bland soap that Is pure make a thick lather and rub well Into the skin with the finger-tips, going over the surface several times: then wash off, using hot water. Lather the com- plexion brush and gently scrub the face, being particular to reach up into the edge of the hair and over the entire neck. Wash off all soap in clear water, then rinse the face thoroughly in coid water and dry. with gentle friction. Massage the face with the finger tips, giving care to the parts you affected with enlarged pores; then apply this astringent Ilotion to the coarse pores, rubbing In well. Mix thoroughly one ounce of glycerine, two ounces of elder-flower water and two drams of powdered alum. In the morning wash off all traces of the lotion, rinse in cold water, and lastly add fifteen drops of tincture of ben- zoin to a pint of cold water and sponge the face and neck. This will act as a mild astringent and aid in whiten- ing the skin. While it is doubtful if the tiny red veins on the nose can be wholly concealed, the treatment pre- scribed will imorove the circulation to such an extent that the color will be graduzlly reduced to a normal state. PROPER MOURNING ATTIRE THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL ty characteri all ents, although they be ved models of is obtained by the e of all elaborate s and copying enly the plain- ceful mod: The quality »uld be as good as allow s black fab- e ma ans will on: rics, especially crape, quickly become shabby. When buying cloth, k, straw hats, etc., always ask for dull finished mourn goods. For your wool house dresses select Henrletta cloth, Eudora, vo cashmere, alba- tross, dull finished silks, crepe de chine or Japan silk is suggested 1 cool dress is de- lawn, mull or Swiss of the same make e house or street warm weather. Of gs, . petticoats, etc., worn under these sheer fabrics must be of dull black. t costumes may be fashioned from serge, dull finished black broadcloth, cheviot, camels’ hair or Venetian cloth. Folds of crape, ruchings of chiffon or rows of narrow grosgrain ribbon may be used to trim the house dresses, while crocheted buttons and machine stitching adorn the strictly walking suits. For the more dressy two-piece suits mourning gimp, crape folds, silk and passe- menterie made expressly for this pur- pose will afford correct decoration. ‘Wear suede gloves for all ceremonious occasions and black lisle thread or silk when the former would be too warm. Mitts are very little worn. It is mere- ly a matter of individual taste whether 4 bonnet and long veil or hat with draped veil be worn; both are cor- rect. The latter, however, is most ropular with women under 45. The draped veil may be of Brussels net edged with a fold of crape or of chif- fon. Ask for mourning veil and any milliner can drape it gracefully. Nar- row turnover collars and cuffs of fine hemstitched white linen and black chiffon ruchings are both permissible. hen a sired. Plain bla ed with rufil “JACK HORNER” PIE (Mrs. B. F.) One of the prettiest ways to distrib- ute souvenirs at a child’s party is by means of & huge “Jack Horner” pie. Large department stores where table fittings, such as fancy paper, ice cases, etc., are kept, can probably supply you with these pies as well as with suit- able trifles for filling it, though if you prefer you can make the pie yourself. Of course the size of the pie and its contents must be governed by the price you are willing to pay and by the num- ber of invited guests, but as a basis for convenient calculation suppose there are to be twenty-five guests. Select a new tin milkpan, about two and a kalf or three inches deep and fifteen inches in diameter. Cut a plece of manila paper, to represent the crust, about three inches larger all around than the diameter of the pan. To carry out the dejusion ornament the crust with little gashes through the center, then lay on a smooth surface covered with a thick towel and pass a hot flat- iron’ cuickly over the surface of the paper to slightly scerch it and simu- late a real baked pie crust. Place the souvenirs in the pan with a long streamer of narrow ribbon attached to each gift, this ribbon to match the color of the table decorations. Hold the streamers together and slip them through the center of the paper crust or cover, which should then be drawn down over the pan and fastened with a little flour paste to the sides of the pan. Cover the joining with a full ruching of crepe paper of harmonious shade, tied about the pan with a band of ribbon and decorate with a few sprays of ferns or ivy as a pretty fin- ishing touch. The pie may be put upon the table through the tea as a substi- tute fcr the usual floral centerpice, or may be brought in with the sweets near the close of the meal. A streamer is placed within the reach of each child and at a given signal all are told to pull, when the mysteries of the won- derful ple are revealed. Tiny dolls, fans, whistles and grotesque rubber ball faces will excite much merriment. To avoid offending the dignity of the boys who might otherwise receive a doll or similar toy, designate their es- pecial gifts by different colored stream- ers from those attached to the sou- venirs for the girls. TO BANISH PIMPLES (School Girl).——As you are remarkably healthy I think local treatment will soon rid your face of disfiguring pim- ples, which seem to be the result of a very oily skin. You must, however, be persistent and at the same time be careful of your diet, eating plain, nourishing foods and avoiding fat and sweet made dishes, candy, etc. Throw your powder puff aside for a time, at least, as it merely tends to check per- spiration and clog the pores. Profuse perspiration is the best friend of a girl troubled with eruptions, consequently I would suggest that you exercise free- ly for the express purpose of produc- ing, profuse perspiration and with summer weather to aid the improvised Turkish bath will wonderfully cleanse each little pore, which is now choked with hardened sebum. The heat and exercise may for a time seem to in- crease the pimples, but it is simply the ereater activity of the skin forc- ing out the impurities, so do not be alarmed, for you had better endure temporary increase of the pimples than an indefinite continuance of the evil. While the face is in a profuse perspiration is the golden moment to give it a thorough scrubbing with plenty of hot water and a bland soap lather. The hardened sebaceous oil is loosened and readily absorbed by the lather, hence the lather should be rubbed thickly over the face with the finger tips, avoiding irritating any sore spots, although it is important that zhl; lcansed. Sop the t ft rag, wash- n soap. ending d sponge with and witch hazel, dry on. FOR INFLAMED EYELIDS (Vlola). ich have become weak and in- flamed from over exposure to the glare nlight, whether by land should be protected by colored glasses and all treatment be of a soothing na- ture until normal « itions are re- gained. Glasses of a delicate gray are most restful; the very dark glasses, while mare protective, are apt to strain the sight if an effort is made to see any object clearly, hence this benefit is doubtful unless dense shade is impera- tive. When the glasses are not worn be careful to carry a parasol of black, dark blue or green as offering the most restful shade; white and red parasols are simply ruinous to the sight and should not be used. If the eyes itch and feel irritated do not yield to the temptation of rubbing them, for the unnatural motion and the atoms of dust on the finger tips will increase the inflammation in a marked degree. Al- most instant relief is felt by bathing the eyes with cold water in which has been dissolved just enough fine table salt to give the saltiness of tears. If the pain is great, bind or hold a cloth saturated with cold water on the eyes for a half hour or longer, keeping it cool by redipping occasionally. Bathe the eyes occasionally with a solution of boric acid, ten grains to one ounce of distilled. or. failing this, use two parts of witch hazel to onme part of water. Use a medicine dropper to put the so- lution directly into the eye, hold the head backward, drop in the solution and wink the lids several times to force the remedy under the inflamed Ilids. After a little practice it will be easy to do this. Repeat several times each day. Lest you forget, let me add that wa- ter, bowl, sponge or any other thing used in connection with eye treatment must be surgically pure. Keep out of smoky or dusty air until the eyes have grown strong again. THE LATEST IN STOCKS (Van- ity).—If you want the very smartest stock to wear with your new shirt waist suits of linen or dotted and checked taffeta, make a rather wide turnover collar two or two and one- fourth inches deep, of rather heavy handkerchief linen. Trim the edge with eyrlet embroidery and make six daisies in eyelet work te correspond, at regu- lar intervals, through the middle of the turnover secfion, and mount to a neckband of correct length. Through the open centers of the flower forms run a soft wide ribbon of empire green, adjust ghe band over the neckband of the shirt waist with opening in front and tie the ribbon in a pretty bow. A very charming soft effect is gained by copying the same idea in sheer linen with edging of very fine Valenciennes lace with dainty scarf of chiffon or net, using applied lace forms, set at inter- vals to run the scarf through. To be strictly in style you must have plenty of stock with long slender tab ends, as well as those having puffy bows under the chin. Stocks of sheer white linen with ties to match having richly em- of or sea, - HMow Tomalke <« TPotpourri ofF Reses - & broidered end in a smagt bow a all white, to be e popular an match the colc L costume, f fas n demands harmony in all acces- sories this season. Faggpting ha; none of its popula: , and marvelous patterns are fashior its clever asso with bands of sheer lawn, wh way, can wow be p folded, i es perfect accuracy of width, so essential to good vork. FREEING THE HAIR FROM DAX DRUFF (Miss D.).—Dandruff is the re- sult of a mild form of tetter, a mus- cular disease of the skin; the particles are then drv and white. When dan- druff arises from i ation caused by oversupplied and clogged oil glands of the scalp, the deposit is very greasy and more or less discolored. In either case frequent shampooing is invalu- able in cleansing the scalp. Do not be persuaded to use a fine tooth comb, for this little instrument has laid the foun- dation of many dandruff-crowned heads by establishing a chronic frri- tation of the sensitive pores. Again, never shampoo the hair while it is filled with dandruff, but first clean it in the following manner: Divide the hair in small strands and with a mod- erately stiff brush go over the entire scalp several times in short gentle strokes to dislodge the particles which cling to the scalp. Then go over the scalp again with the finger tips, rub- bing lightly. This will loosen the re- maining particles. Divide the halr in four parts, for the sake of conveni- ence, take a portion in the hands about twelve inches from the scalp and shake the hair briskly. You will be surprised to see how readily the dan- druff wiil fall. When no meore can be dislodged, brush the hair thoroughly, using a perfectly clean brush. This may seem like a good deal of ado, but it is quite useless to wet the hair while dandruff lurks in its meshes, for no amount of rinsing will get it all out, and any remaining particles will re- appear the instant the hair is dried, especially if the dandruff is of the white crder. Be particular about brushing the hair twice daily to dis- lodge any particles of dandruff, and use a good hair tonic until the scalp is in a clean, healthy condition. Dan- druff can usually be banished by per- sistent care. TREATING ROUGH "RED SKIN (A. M. C.)—The practice of plunging the hands and face in very cold water while overheated cannot be oo strong- ly condemned, for it is productive of red and coarsened skin, pimples and forms of itch. While it gives momen- tary relief from intense heat. the reac- tion is severe and does more real harm to the texture of the skin than the dust one encounters; and, too. you should know that cold water has very little cleansing power when the face is grimy from travel. Try always to avoid extremes. When consumed with a desire to get cool quickly, sip a glass of cold water slowly and wait until you have cooled off somewhat. then bathe the hands and face with luke- warm water, rinse in cool water and then in cold water to which has been 13 ifteen drops of simple tin each quart of wat pores by an powder and er of sleeves for gowns. Even the eeve has taken on up the fullness at the the latest pouch at ff is cut attach clever shaping. sleeves heir imme t almost hope- del a fine waist an be matched or e models the mass rather flat at the shoulders by being in deep unstitched plaits; again, fine tucks stitched h the length of the sieeve are employed and the surplus width shirred into the armhole. A novel long shoulder effect is developed in a new shirred mox by a clever bit of shirring extending partly through the length of the sleeve and about six inches down from the shoulder seam. The waist is seamless on the shoulder and shirred along where the shoulder seam ordinarily is, and rows of shirring the sieeve blend in Wo- gether perf . in fact, some of the finest waists are so that sec- tions of waist and sleeves are in a Deep. lose cuffs obtain louble and tripie single plece. as do a puft A DAINTY BATHROBE (Violet).— As you enjoy making pretty things for yourself In preference to buy ready made garments, I think you will experience very little difficulty ing a charming bathrobe. While there are numerous flannels, Turkish cloth, etc., for the purpose, an ideal robe for winter is made of a 2 wool bed blanket. The problem of whether the robe will spot or launder is set- tled once for all if-you use this bia ket, and the wearing qualities 1 beauty are dependent only upon the quality selected. you prefer cate color combinations, why choose a cream white blanket with rose or blue border, even though the delicate gray Is more practical? Do not attempt to cut the robe by guess. Seemingly shapeless garments require careful cutting to be successful. Any large pattern house can supply you with a pattern for a blanket bathrobe if you so specify. Calculation is mads in such a pattern to utilize the bor- der of the blanket for trimming with- out cutting except where absolutely necessary and with the least waste. The edges are prettiest when com- pleted with a binding of inch satin ribbon to match or harmonize with the color or strine of the border. The conventional cord girdle can be pur- chased ready for use, but as It seems rather heavy and maseculine, why not make 2 girdle of knotted ribbon? A novel idea is to run three strands of rose colored ribbon. each of different shade, through three clusters of cro- cheted rings, leaving sufficient length to tie in front and tie the ends in a succession of knots about six inches apart. Crocheted slippers made of rose colored worsted or silk to match should carry out the color schem: these slippers are to have soles of lambs’ wool or, if you prefer, you may have slippers in white or tan colored canvas, such as are used for bathroom purposes. iali-