The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 11, 1904, Page 11

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. Now Is the Time to Make Your Winter Blouses, for the New styles Are Out and the French Materials Are Here for Trim- mings—The Beautiful New Dresses of Fraulein Bertha Krupp—Blouses in the Trous- seau of Miss Pauline Astor—. | The Cloth Blouse Is Crowd- ing the Silk One Out of Style. > . i By AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. RAULEIN BERTHA KRUPP, the richest girl in the world, has fallen love with the American shirt waist suit Miss Krupp, who has recently into possession of her 18 years and her for- tune, has been buying gowns from Paris and gowns from London, and pmow she wishes to invade New York for more gowns. Miss Krupp particularly admires the shirt waist and she knows she must e to New York to get it. Brought up the unaffected daughter of the gun- maker, she now revels in the posses- sion of more millions than are owned by the greatest American heiress that walks. What wonder that her girlish turns toward the handsomest thing in gowns. come fancy Miss Krupp, who has just lightened her mourning, wears a dress that is most charming and very quaint she looks in it. It is an Irish gray, almost and is made with ngs, one of those skirts that w give one the bouffant effect. the foot there are three rged to look like a triple the skirt e no contrast at all nany plpings of white upon the rt and yoke, for it is a gown ade of bands of white lace and of gray material n the cleverest way. gether e sle s are marvels In width the elbow, with beautiful pieces and liberty silk set into the They are exquisite sieeves, with nehow the el effect, for the lace makes them tight With this gown Miss Krupp wears a large b med hat trimmed with num- erous s of gray chiffon. Another nies this suit, a hat of hat acc t rimmed with numerous mes, a picture hat. It is whispered in Berlin that Miss Erupp is ordering her laces for her trousseau, and prudent old wivee say that it is none too soon. An heiress must marry some day, and, with laces NEEDLE WORNK CUEF AN VAl Lacs in such de i, it takes years to together enough for a fine trous- seau. The heavy German Val. lace is most used just in the deco- nothing that i the heavy Shirt Waist. One way to 1 a shirt waist is to get very hea Let it be as coarse as hop but not rough. It wil v thread of the weave. This en makes a very nice waist f Let the color be a cream white, for this holds its style winter and Now the fashionable fad is to take a big, round collar of Irish crochet and for the trimming of this waist work the collar into regular goods. Let it upon the should regulation collar sty but spread it wide. Some- it takes two to go around the they are laid out in this Now applique them into linen summer lie in times neck when manner. and fina pen the whole and press the lace into the heavy cloth. The re- sult is curiously like embroidery or like a very expensive lace inset, Theyare and coloring them a deep blue. There is a shade of blue which dyes charm- y and the heavy linen waists that have done duty as white waists all summer are now dipped and made new for winter. Dame Fashlon has declared for the white walsts so long that now her eyes beg to turn toward the blue walsts and the cranberry colors and the other deep tints. There is a love- 1y shade of will green which is Very desirable for fall waists, either in heavy linen or in light weight cloth. “Take your old whi linen suits,” counsels a wise upon fashion topics, “and have them dipped for fall wear. Take my word for it they can be worn until snow fiies.” woman Heavy dark linen suits were worn under cloth coats with ccllars of fur all last fall in London. All of these things and many others go to show the great vogue of the wash waist whether for winter or for summer wear. A Directoire Suit. Here is a gown just as completed for a very elegant woman who wears the handsomest dresses in town. The style is Directoire, although it is' by no means an exaggerated gown, but a Directoire on modified lines. The ma- terial is smooth, thin, fine cloth, closely related to broadcloth and the color is that fashionable autumn tint known as leaf mold brown. There is, of aking all the old linen waists " \\/ | PO o //,,’“,.;r.w A DeEe NEEDLE wWoOR < COoOLL Aar course, alvwer tone combined with it, a light blue which is seen only in the narrowest lines, such as tiny folds and pipings. And wherever you see a blue piping you will see a white one close along side. The skirt of this gown is long and, though full, it is not one of those ex- tremely full skirts. There is a train and the front and the sides are snug, that they are held down close by bands of trimming. is, The skirt is made of three very scant puffs and between the puffs there are rows of pinking, ragged and decora- tive, and the blue pipings seem to come in between the puffs and the piping. There is a Directoire coat with collar, lapels, cuffs and wide girdie of cloth of silver. This suit is one to be recom- mended to any woman who buys one and only one handsome suit. Every woman, no matter how pov- erty-stricken she may be, is entitled to one fine gown a season. Many women prefer to wear old clothes, neatly patched or tastefully remodeled, on all other occasions. But when a very nice event occurs they want to have one fine gown. And this is a point of view taken by many women who are well dressed. For the woman who is going to have one handsome frock there is nothing that will appeal to the taste more than a nice silk dress. But from points of durability the new soft finegladies cloths are best. They come now in the most exquisite deep tones with color suggestion for trimming them. There is a lightweight broadcloth which, in the biscuit colors, makes up as fine as the finest satin. In all the shops they will show you Landsome dark cloth materials, such as the popular leaf mold brown, or cranberry red, or deep sea green or black, and they will drape your ma- terial with some contrasting color to set it off and to give you an idea of the color harmonies. Whole suits are, o O W EAR ITH ANY SHIRT WAIST of course, worn. But the girdle, the collar and cuffs, and the pipings and sometimes the folds and the pinkings are in another shade. There is quite a little fancy for building a shirt waist suit all of one tone without a hint of contrasting color or in mixed goods. There comes for fall the most delightful mixed suits in gray, with splashes of red and blue and green. These have the nub effect and make up- into very pretty shirt walist suits. They call for four pieces, the skirt, the eton, the very wide girdle and the chemisette. The nattiest of the fall shirt waists, with their skirts, are made on the blouse order, with open front, under which a little light wash shirt waist can be worn if desired. Many wear only the chemisette, consisting of the choker and little cape attachment. A Trio of Shirt Waists. Here are three shirt waists just as they came from Paris for the trous- seau of Miss Pauline Astor. One is a heavy winter moire in blue of a medium shade. The silk is unlined and can be worn on the middle days of autumn when on coat is needed. The trimming of this waist or blouse consist of Hungarian embroid- ery. It is very cinningly wrought and is very broad ‘and very fine, thus dig- nifying the walst into a thing of real style. The belt of embroidery, which Iis wide and intended to wrinkle, is in front. The waist 1S gathered rath full into this Hungarian belt and th is a quaint silver buckle in front. There are buckles with dangling chains and medallions. There are wide Hungarian cuffs, with little frills of taffeta on each side, and there is a stock with a frill at the top. But the prettiest thing is the medal- lion upon the sleeve. It is five inches square and is worked in conventional style with all the colors of the rain- bow, beautifully intermixed. In the center there is an initial. A second blouse was made of leaf brown taffeta. It had a deen yoke of ‘Mexican allover lace of the finest qual- brought down to something of a W:z e amer My 178 FORLA %} ity. A small bordering of this lace finished the cuffs. With this waist there went a wide girdle of brown suede of the kind that is meant to wrinkle. It was fastened in front with an immense gold buckle. A string of gold beads falling to the waist line will be worn with this. The third blouse was white in a soft taffeta of very bright finish, looking almost as lustrous as Liberty. A deep yoke of Venetian point was set in the neck and there were sleeves attached to the voke. This was the only trim- ming the gown boasted. The lace yoke and sleeves, being all of one piece, gave the French touch, which so many blouses have this season. The Pretty Cloth Blouses. . The cloth blouses will be quite in evi- dence this fall. Thev are cut on shirt waist lines and are designed to wear with white skirts to match, but they are made In such a manner that they can be worn with different skirts. This is easily arranged if you will con- sider it. A woman whose gowns are always irreprdichable wears a gun metal cloth blouse, trimmed with black lace insets. Each one is embroidered in the Italian combination of red, blue and brown. Around the lace insets there is a tiny puffing of blue ribbon. With this blouse there are three “belts, red and brown and blue. All three skirts can be worn, a red skirt, a brown skirt and a blue skirt. Or the wearer can don a skirt of SR WAIS T SUITS BREISHOR T, gun metal to exactly match her blouse. It is easily managed, you see, this mat- ter of blouses and skirts, if you make a study of it. The most perplexing problem is the skirt, which must be either long or short. You can put on the rather cling- ing skirt, with the train, which is the skirt for the house and for receptions and for carriage wear. But for street, for walking, for shopping, for informal calling—indeed for all except very dressy purposes—fashion calls for the skirt that swings clear from the floor. If the same thing is desired in a white blouse there can be chosen a white peau de cygne, which has its own luster, and into it there can be set white lace pan- sles, with a little blue stitchery around each one. With this there must be a collar of Hungarian embroidery, show- ing more red and brown, and the belt and cuffs must match. Thus you have the making of another very pretty street sult. Strings of beads of semi- precious stuff will carry out the schéme of the embroidery. There is a pretty stock which fs youthful and always becoming. It .iIs made of insertion, through which rib- bons are run. The band is just wide enough and just long enough for the neck, and the ribbons are run through it and tled at the back. Three or four narrow ribbons are very neat If knotted in little bows at the back of the neck, just under the low cofffure. This sort of stock can be worn with any dress. The Newest in Stocks. And there Is another stock that is quite as easy to make, and it Is one that has been worn a great deal this summer. It is made by taking a strip of lace insertion eighteen inches long and finishing it with little hooks and -. eyes for the back of the neck. At the front there are fastened two tabs side by side. The tabs are made by sewing +Jace medallions together. Take three medallions and attach them in such a way as to make two tabs. Sew them to the neck so that they hang neatly over the bust. This gives something of the stole effect and is very becoming. It is amazing to note how generally women are taking to the simple line of stocks. Mrs. Garret A. Hobart, who is one of the best dressed women In the world, is wearing simple white needlework stocks, put around the throat in the plainest, prettiest fash- ion and fastened at the back with in- visible hooks and eves. If preferred, the stock can be secured at the back / under a chou of tulle. And speaking of the tulle choux, they are now made similar and round- er, so that they look like a little ball of cloud. They are light, alry and very becoming, and, with the high coiffure, they are quite the thing. They come in all the pastel colors, and a woman who aims to be well dressed should certainly keep a dozen of them on hand. There are little sachet lined boxes into which these can be laid and sweetly scented. It would hardly seem as though the question of scents were part of a fash- jon article. Yet perfumes enter so largely into gowning that no dress- maker ignores then and no trousseau, summer or winter, is complete without due attention to them. The latest fad is the scenting of the dress skirt with a dozen little flat hearts filled with sa- chet and hung by ribbons from the belt line underneath the skirt. A woman walked up Fifth avenue the other day with a chatelaine dangling from her belt. Hanging in among the silver articles were narrow white rib- bons, to the end of each of which was attached a sachet bag. Exquisite odors that suggest the col- ors of the gown are again the fad. White orchid, pink, violet and all the other scents have their appropriate colers, and clever modistes are fur- nishing hats, girdles and gowns with their own subtle scent. As for the little choux at the back THERE FORE THE HOoOsSE ™MUsST of the neck, they exhals fragrance, and they are worn exclusively with the high coiffure, never with the lows The High and Low Coiffure. The low coiffure calls for & certaim style of neck of its own. Indeed, on building a gown, a modiste will inquire whether you are to wear your halr high or low. If high, then your stock can be pretty tall, buflt up and ruffled and trimmed in-the new styles of the season. But if the hair Is worn low, in a coil or a low hanging braid, thea it calls for a certain way of making the meck .of the gown. Mrs. Samuel Sloane Chauncey, the rich American widow who has been re- ported engaged so many times, wears her hatr low in a very girlish cofl. In fact, she enhances her already youth- ful charms until she is very young in appearance, suggesting a debutante rather than a widow. And one of her recent and prettiest gowns i{s made of leaf mold brown taffeta, trimmed with many little ruffles of white laca The walst has a yoke made of narrow bands of lace insertion, all pleced to- gether, while the stock is very low, not more than an inch high and finished with a ruffie of Valenciennes lace. The girdle is made of white Liberty, with & big pearl clasp in front. The high stocks are not shaped stocks by any means, but are round and fastened at the back In a pretty way. The high wire and pointed stocks aremot worn at all. It Is rather the tall round stock, and the kinds that fasten in simple ways and are made in straight simple lines rather than the very stiff effects. That kind, the tall wired neck, s to have melted away into thin air. The question of how to trim the neck is one that must not be tread= ed lightly; So much has been done In the way of stocks that fashion scems® to have come to a standstill, wondering what is to be done next. There is a disposition toward the preservation of the round neck for wine ter. And, In anticipation of this, there are numbers of fur necklaces now ofe fered in the shops. A fur necklace, be it told, is wide and flat and Is to be thrown around the neck and fastened at the chin. It is something like a bos, but very much wider and flatter. They are making the fur necklaces of baby lamb and are flattening them out to make them very thin. They alse make them of the other furs and of velvet trimmed with fur. There are see BE PesTry very pretty feather neckiaces, very flat and very soft, and just the thing to be thrown around the throat of a gown tifidt is cut low or rounding In the neok. A great many shirt walsts and shirt waist suits are made with this round or Dutch neck. The neck is finished with a cording or with a little frill or ruffie. This is shirred around the throat and the walst is trimmed to match. For day wear these necks are never low enough to show the throat, but the whole of the neck is exposed. The fastening is quite simple, consisting of a little pear] buttoy at the back, and the front is charmingly girlish. For evening the neck can be a little rounder and slightly more inclined to reveal the lines of the throat and neck, but they should not by any means be low. ‘With this style of neck the necklace, be it fur or feathers, or be it made of chiffon ruffles, is a necessity, and, from the minute the first fall breeses blow it should be worn. The round neck in the street is only pretty in midsummer, not by any means in the fall and ‘winter. The best finish is a little frill of lace or a narrow muslin ruffle and, if the gcwn be very nice, the lace frill can be made of Valenciennes lace or of any other fashionable lace, but the finish must be simple. There is something néw to be told about the linen collars with lace inset. But one might talk forever about new modes ard it is best to leave something for another tima.