The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 24, 1904, Page 12

rinkle ir ves the 1 edly well and heart of king her of blocking in them over jelights the s dou bei: on her st becoming straightway Onc nd be espe- be over y smile is much even & dozens tendency to ready te for all man- ertheless they eat o makes just abou may put on in whereas it would o embroider them time and strength and, exc fact, all hous: opting, of course. supplies tabie liner be neatly and service- ably marked in this fashion and will do quite well as the handwork to all intents and poses. These | e expensive treasures are one of the best to-be can things that a bride- invest in, for when housand and one things to possibly nd the same time, she doesn’t know which way to turn first And brides, by the way, generally make the mistake of storing their chest with absoultely everything that they can possibly think of. They pack away sets and sets of everything in lavender and occasionally permit some favored friend to “come and see” while the lady plumes herself and thinks she has done something re- markably fine. And then what hap- pens? Unless she is to be mistress of a large house, her pretty things stay in the chests and slowly but surely grow old with age. Sweet scented, to be sure, but undeniably yellow. If she is a practical little woman out they all come and a good tubbing makes them look quite Mke jiew, but after all what's the use ot having more than can be used comfortable® Besides this there is another side to the question. After her ladyship has had time to stop and breathe she sud- denly wakes up to the fact that she is so tired she can scarcely see straight. —=80 tired she hardly knows what the matter is with herself. She is cross. She is peevish. She is scandalously thin. But the outfit is finished and =he takes comfort in that blessed fact. That may be very fit and fine, but in these days of practicability it is scarce- ly a paying proposition to reduce one's self to a shadow. And for such a poor cause, too. Undoubtedly, all linen should be marked, but there are ways and ways of doing it and life is too short for one to become a slave to household duties. A good style for ordinary towels is the rlain initial worked on a bit of linen that in turn is finished heavily on the ends. They look a little as though they had been buttonholed and as though each little plage for the thread had been finished for that one thread alone. And, of a truth, that is about the facts of the case. Sewing these on is the simplest matter in the world, for when each littie hole is duly attended to the trick is finished. For a better grade towel there are fancier initials and quite a bit larger as well. The linen is finished with a number of fancy frills and furbelows that Jook very pretty but that require somewhat of a knack to applique on well. The little edges that resemble French embroidery are not supposed 1o be tacked securely in place, and in all probability would look more flower- like and more attractive if they were permitted to stand up jauntily, but the pretty effect is entirely ruined if they = gent to the regulation laundry. The seem intent on making sce of the sharpest point and if they are sent home ved end and a number of ches one may consider it a b d Juck ter scheme is to take a and as fine a needle as it and make small, round ! all the way about the linen, aking care not to miss a space large enough to hold the thread. Forty tl ad is not too coarse and it is strong enc » withstand the ravages of the b for many a long day. Sheeting requires a letter that comes especially for it, and the size depends entirely unon the state of the ex- chequer. The ordinary one is about two and a plainl orate one the first che long and is rath- 1ed, but the more elab- a trimming in itself. In place it is five inches long, too large for anything e The linen is exquisitely embroidered and some made of very fine linen, so ithat the finished sheet is most attractive And sh by the way, are being more trimn every day. The thrifty housewife ho prided herself on her supplies used to consider herself in clover if all her sheets and pillow c S mstitched. That was about the nicest way to finish bedding and she found time to provide herself with a w few for the guest's chamber at any rate. But these days she needs some- thing even more elaborate and more betrimmed. The finest sheets display a heavy border of flowers, a heavy spray of leaves or even some conventional de- sign, but the simpler ones are content with a pretty piece of embroidered in- sertion, and, of course, the cases are made to match. All widths and all patterns are used, even to the finest quality, but when a particularly dainty flowery design is utilized, the sheeting is not cut out underneath, unless one has absolutely no regard for one's pocketbook. Breakfast napkins are the only ones that may be marked with these ap- pliqued initials, and then, they, by the way, must be of an entirely different variety. Unfortunately they come in but one size and always in a plain let- ter that is not surrounded by linen that shows decidedly and distinctly that it is appliqued rather than em- broidered. They have but one fault and that is if they are not beautifully put on they look infinitely worse than none at all, so it behooves one to make the neatest of stitches. Even in so small a thing as marking linen there are always some changes that one should pay attention to. For instance, towels are not marked in the corners any longer. Instead, the letter is placed in the center of an end and then it depends entirely upon the finish of the towel itself. The hemstitched ones usually have the letter about two inches above the hem, but the damask effects have them farther away than that. Tea cloths and the like for kitchen wear may be marked in a variety of ways, but the newest and most satis- factory method is to order the entire name worked in red in small pieces of tape. This, of course, is machine work, but it {s neat and very serviceable and plenty good enough. These little let- ters come in a variety of sizes and shapes and there certainly is no gain- saying the fact that it is a splendid scheme to have these smaller articles labeled plainly and with the full name, for Jane Smith does not run many chances of losing them in the laundry, and in this way a generous supply will last for years and years. Again, one may order a simple red initial or a red monogram, but they are absolutely plain and never come larger than what is known as the “inch size.” That is, of course, unless one is willing to pay a fancy price for such an order, and then all is plain sailing. THE .SAN F Now that shops have imported lace- makers and skilled workers in linen the girl who has plenty of money to spend is in clover. All her lingerie b her monogrdm and rhaps a crest. Not the smallest trifle is forgotten and her dainty cobweb handkerchiefs are truly things of beauty. When she arriv at the state of furnishing her house she walks into a shop, looks extremely her selections of va- rious linens and menograms and then goes serenely on her way, knowing full well that all the supplies will be d - in due time ready for e. Fancy a tremendous satis ion thers be in that! But on the other hand, think of the satisfaction ghat comes from the knowledge that all the pretty, useful artic e made by yourself and that every stitch was sewed firmly dowr bits of senti- ment and castle building. And of the two, which would you? | Answers to | Correspondents I 5 feet 1 pounds 5 feet 2 pounds 5 feet 3 pounds 5 feet 4 inches. . pounds feet 5 inches. . pounds feet 6 pounds feet 7 pounds feet § ; pounds 5 feet 9 A 162 pounds 5 feet 10 inches. .169 pounds S. 1. L. (Bleaching Hair).—No, you misunderstood me about the, lemons. 1 did not mean with the oxide, but by themselves in the rinsing water. I would try that now and then instead of using so much peroxide, for it is a bleach in itself and a very harmless one at that. You have been using too much ammonia in the peroxide and that has told on your hair. Try two or three tablespoonfuls of ammonia in the usual amount of peroxide and you will find it will serve quite as well And if you possibly, can, sit in the sun while it is drying. That gives a glossy look and it will also serve as a bleach in itself. Besides it is a splendid tonic and if you can manage to give your hair a sun bath it will do it more good than a course of treatment. Here is a splendid skin food: ‘White wax . .1 ounce Spermacetti .1 ounce Lanolin ..... 2 ounces Sweet almond oil ..4 ounces Cocoanut oil ......... ..2 ounces Tincture of benzoin . .-30 drops Orange flower water .. .2 ounces. Meilt the first five ingredients to- gether. Take off the, fire and beat until nearly cold, adding, .little by little, the benzoin, apd lastly the orange flower water. MRS. C. J. B. (Musi¢al Voice).—You most certainly can train your voice, but it is going to take time and faithful practice. However, it is well worth the energy and time expended. In the first place, all sweet voices are low and soft, and you can pitch yoursto prac- tically suit yourself. Try speaking first in a high key and then in a low one. Really one cannot help you, for it all depends entirely with yourself, but when you have the house to your- self hold an animated conversation with anything you may be working upon and see the various keys that you can use. Another thing, remember and never speak loudly, for that in itself frequently makes the voice harsh and stringent. If people do not hear Yyou, move nearer them, but persist in speaking evenly and slowly, and I am certain that you will acquire as pleas- ing a voice as any one. BROWN EYES (Brown Spots).—I am / 4 Sorry to say there IS nothing bLes s than peroxide. [ wonder if you have used it full strength and if you have put any ammonia with it. Do not be discouraged bhut keep right on, for there is no more powerful bleach, and if any- thing will remove that dark spot, per- oxide will. Now about those scars: Again 1 am afraid nothing will help you. Where the flesh has been dis- figured it is difficult to patch it out and make it look fresh without an op- eration, and even then it is frequent- Iy a dismal failure. But really I would not worry over those, for these days every one wears such dainty, flufly neckwear that you can keep them cov- ered very nicely. If you want to wear evening gowns buy a heavy beaded collar that is some two and a half Inches high and wear that. It is not only fashionable but very pretty and vastly becoming to the majority of people. If I hear of a good bleach I will let you know, so glance over the answers in order not to miss it. AMY (For Dry Hair). Cocoanut oil . Lanolin . . Glycerine . Tincture of jabordani. .4 drachms Rub the mixture well into the hair every night. It should remedy the dry- ness after a short time. WEAK FEET AND ANKLES (Mrs. N. M. H.)—The trouble of which you complain is common to women whose walking is largely confined to smooth floors. So little exertion is necessary that the muscles of the feet become flabby and lacking in firmness and con- trol, hence when subjected only oc- casionally to sudden twists, prolonged pressure and other effects incident to walking over paved streets or country roads, the weakness is manifest in blisters and a painful sense of strain. Again, the habitual wearing of very AL 25y 7D. ATT7T RANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. LETTEDS 70 2 lovE 7 snug shoes, which nold the muscles perfectly rigid all day, causes them to become weak, losing elasticity, and not responding to the extra strain brought upon them without fatigue. Shoes which are comfortably large will do more to relieve the torture of corns and bunions and strengthen the feet by allowing room to expand and the muscles to assert themselves than any amount of local treatment in the way of applications. In fact, little can real- 1y be done to cure the gtrouble until the pressure is removed which causes cal- lous growths and weakness. Last, but by ’v; rwials lemsl, averfect cleanliness an’ toific baths are essential. The lat- ter are particularly restful when the feet are very sensitive, but you can- not expect immunity from pain and weakness until, by careful exercise, you have strengthened the muscles. This is most readily accomplished by a reg- ular daily walk in broad shoes of com- fortable length. They should be loose enough to permit you to draw the feet as well as the toes backward and for- ward easily. A simple exercise which will strengthen the muscles of the feet, ankles and legs is to stand erect and rise slowly upen the toes, coming down lightly on the heels. Repeat until the muscles are tired. At first it may be tiresome after four or five efforts, but persistent repetition will soon give strength and endurance, then you will be able to repeat the exercise twenty times and do it several times a day. Use the following excellent liniment freely on the feet and ankles after ex- ercise and long walks to relieve sore- ness and pain: One half ounce each of spirits of turpentine, ofl of hemlock, oil of cedar and gum camphor to five ounces of the best alcohol. Keep tight- ly corked and when using it rub in thoroughly. NOVELTIES IN HANDKER- CHIEFS (L. F. N.)—Fashion seems to have gone mad on the subject of color as well as form this season, and it has extended to the handkerchief. If you ‘want the very newest thing in all white effects the handkerchief of sheer linen with eyelet hole edging and ‘initials are the latest. They are expensive accesso- ries when bought ready made, but if you are expert with your needle they can be readily copied and the designs changed to give variety. For pick-up work they make an ideal task, and the result is well worth the time spent in producing it. Next on the list are the gay little French squares of cobweblike 1 linen and lawns, which are in plain, solld colors, or the center may be em- bellished with tiny figures, dots, bov knots or in garlands with one or more colors, generally to match the border, with a light touch of black to accentu- ate the pattern The favorite gamut of colors are Javenders, pinks, blues, car- dinal, black and a few in green. To be strictly in style these fancy handker chiefs must exactly match the princi- pal color of the gown. For practical utility nothing can surpass the exqui- site handkerchiefs of very fine white lawn having a parrow hemstitched border, with the monogram of the own- er or her initial surrounded by tiny floral sprays or conventional forms em- broidered in fine white linen threads in French “laid work,” familiar to all needlewomen. GRANULATED EYELIDS (Betty)— Eyelids which are constantly fringed with a crust of dandruff or grandula- tions are not in a healthy condition, and some treatment stronger than “frequent bathing in clear water” is necessary to rid the lids of the disfig- uring excretion. Inflammation of the lids undoubtedly exists and must overcome. The demands upon the sight are so varied that few escape a chronic state of inflammation in a low degree, which may manifest itself in redness of the eyeballs or of the lids only, but by regular and intelligent treatment the trouble can usually be alleviated by simple means. If the trouble is se- vere or you notice that the irritation is steadily increasing, then lose no time in consulting a competent oculist, for un- der no circumstances is home treat- ment advisable.gWhen inflammation is present, even in a low degree, it is easily discovered in a strong light by a close examination before a mirror. You will observe that the network of tiny veins which traverse the mem- branous lining of the lids are very red and clearly defined; in a healthy state they are hardly discernible. Bathe the eyelids with clear, tepid water, holding it on with a soft cloth, well saturated, until the granulation is released. Then use the following wash, which should be prepared by a druggist, three or four times daily and in the meantime avoid- ing eye strain as much as possible: Take twelve grains of borax, four grains of morphine, one teaspoonful camphor water and four ounces of dis- tilled water. Mix. Paint the lids freely with the solution, applying with a cam- elshair brush or a bit of absorbent cot- ton. If you get a few drops into the eyes, so much the better, as it will ma- terially hasten recovery. This may be readily accomplished by the aid of a medicine dropper. HINTS FOR THE DYSPEPTIC (Marion)—A person suffering from in- digestion should never drink freely of ice water cither with or between meals, as It lowers the temperature of the stomach and retards digestion. In the morning when you feel so distressed do not eat breakfast as soon as you are up, but wait an hour. Occupy the intervening time with some light ex- ercise and take half a pint of hot water to rid the stomach of poisonous mucus which has accumulated during the night. The moment you are up take the hot water, adding a few drops of lemon juice to make it more palatable. In a short time you will be able to take it clear and increase the quantity to a pint. You will find this wonderfully helpful in cleansing the stomach. Next massage over the stomach and ab- domen for ten minutes, using the hands in a firm rotary pressure. If a roller is used roll from right to left, reverse and then up and down until the entire surface has been covered several times. It will give great relief. TREATING PROFUSE PERSPIRA- TION (Jennie).—I can readily under- stand how annoying profuse perspira- tion is to a sensitive girl who wishes to be dainty at all times and trust the directions given may be helpful to you. Do not drink too freely of any liquid, two quarts of water a day should be the limit, less if you can overcome ex- treme thirst. As far as you can avoid violent exercise and dress in loose, cool clothing. Garments which are even a trifie snug will irritate a person of, very nervous temperament, particular- ly on a warm day, so that profuse par- spiration is often induced by such an- noyances alone. Before retiring take a tub bath in tepid water, using plenty of soap and follow the bath with a cold sponge bath and a thorough rub- down with a rather coarse towel. This will improve the circulation as well as give tone to the skin. As a tonic com- pletion to the toilet pour equal parts of water and alcohol, about two ounces each, in a small bowl and with a small spenge quickly go over the entire body letting the mixture dry on without wiping. This will be found most re- freshing. After the morning sponge bath dry the body and apply the fol- lowing lotion to the most affected parts and allow it to dry on: Soft water one quart, hydrate of chloral two ounces. Dusting the body freely with a pure talcum powder will also afford great relief. Avoid highly perfumed prepar- ations and soaps, they are not used by refined women who understand good form. Wear cotton and linen waists, which may be rhore readily kept im- maculaté and be particular to renew dress shields frequently, buying only such as can be laundered, as a matter of economy. POINTS OF PHYSICAL CULTURE (Vera).—The sensible girl will under- stand that athletics do not stand for unlady-like liberty, but a control of the mental and physical forces. It is to be regretted that thoughtless girls have abused their privileges and under the pretext of being athletic have become loud and boisterous. This is the fault of the individual and not of the train- ing she receives at the gymnasium. A truly refined woman will never cease to be a lady, all examples of women to the contrary. Contact with the world and a knowledge of physical culture and sports will broaden and develop her forces, but never coarsen them un- less she so wills. It will show her, as nothing else will, the limitations of her sex and point out privileges she may Justly claim as her own, but she will never take unfair advantage because she is a woman. - E W R RO, S e — (Continued on Page 13.) JOE ROSENBERG'S. TED— 1080 Women fo in- spect thess ba s are p they will pleass your eyes—more S0 your purse. Child’s Handbag— Made of imported Lavant Kid Leath- er, handle polished, steel frame, near silk lined, with coin purse and mirror inside: ~gray, and black; Ladies’ Handbag— Made of monkey- skin round leather, braided handle, nickel-plated trame moire lined, with coin purse to match inside, new shapes, in tan, also blac! price ..55e The Peggle from Paris Made soft moroeco extra long and 'strong_leather handles, gilt frame with patent clasp, black and cham- pagne; price.§1.00 R JOo= 0 SENBERG of skin, The Pries-Cutt 7, (¢ 816 MARKET ST. 411 O'FARRELL ST.