The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 24, 1904, Page 10

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL §he M < It Out of Pongee or Crepe ¢ Chine. Thin Cloth or Taffeta, and She Ta It Elaborately for Wear, Winter and Summer—The Dashing thyles of the Between Season Girl 1 Pretty Clothes Worn by toosevelt—The Coming ittons, Sleeves, Capes Parts of the Gown. By AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. hand ~ s & | wom . be w ne b 1d will last as 'y ere Is a thread of the pe e vbody knows th this ctically indestru A re elegant garment is a pongee c in t blue, trimmed with string e of the same shad The lace T i$ used a frill 1 sle shoulder ruff front a wider band nes the yoke and n who has no use for ise blue coat there is the pon- in y white. This can be ed with pipings of the same ma- terial and h a very little Valen- ed a pearl color. This eful any time of the year, e fashion now to wear white ks winter d summer. the pongees, which are serviceable of all long ne very fine light cloths » beautifully. One cloak weight cloth was in a ¥ blue, that color of which This coat, which was length, was trimmed navy blue taffeta, with d outlined with a piping of This makes a very effect- imming. The Nice Long Cloaks. who want a cloak that will do r matinee girl and even for the opera can select a heavy weight of crepe de chine and line it with taffeta. At ming of bands of taffeta and fancy buttons will make the cloak a elegant one. a few of the micer of the long ere finished with fringe and the cioak which may be*in the dark shades iz put away to be used for nice oc- casions, calling, receptions and events clc onsists of satin and rows Its lin- > it really ttle frills to ), fine will find vestment her Worn aist and a han loak b ftself, egant appearance » of a handsome velvet or the and will tume And it lace, strictly vogue. Getting Back to Satin. the fashion rd and that, There is no in its bac d »gress, it has reached the safin stage. Black satin, heavy and lustro nd black satin of chiffc glossy and soft, will both as will all the in medi f satin It is going to be a fall when the grande dame will have a handsome satin gown in her wardrobe and when she will bring it out and put it on for c She will have it made up in the most elaborate manner, and she will trim it with the finest old lace in her tr nk. But, though satin has been revived, it will be trimmed in new wa Black satin and Spanish lace will be worn as they w in days of yore, but black asure ‘- satin will also be linked to lace of less illustrious pedigree. The string and the ecru laces, the imitation vals and the odd and coarse imitation Irish crochet laces will all 'be worn upon the hand- somest of black satin calling costumes. One lovely gown, made for a young matron of society, is a black satin with sweeping skirt all laid in box plaits upon a plain black satin hip yoke. The skirt is trimmed with a wide band of filet lace put on at about the height of the knees. “The waist is an Eton with open front and short sfeeves over a black lace shirt waist, the lace being of the heavy string variety. Nor is it the matron alone who h: fallen under the magic spell of the lustrous and aristocratic stuff. Even the debutantes are gorgeous in gowns of black satin made gay with pipings of a bright shade and with dyed or ecru lace to simulate a cape. One dear little debutante has a shirt waist suit of the most lustrous order, The gkirt is a round length, ¥ trimmed with three deep tucks, each tuck bordered with a lace frill. The round shirt waist, which is quite sim- ple, is trimmed with a deep collar of taffeta, cut in big scallops, with a fancy button set in the middle of each scallop. There is a black satin girdle bordered with lace frills. _ The Button Question of Fall. For fall the button question pre- sents many pretty features, one of the most pronounced of which is that of the pearl button. Just how so many pearl buttons can be used is a prob- lem to the dressmaker, who gazes at the immense assortment and wonders what she will do with so wide a va- riety. That it is up to her to dispose of these buttons in an artistic way there is no doubt. One of ¢ - odd and very pretty but- ton conceits has for a beginning countless pearl buttons of smallest size. These now come in a variety of colors and for the trimming of cloth and 1 dresses are invaluable. Take for a brown taffeta shirt waist several dozen tiny -earl buttons of the variety that sew through and through. Lay the waist in box plaits | THATE QLAATE AT PHIDE SLEZFES and, Peginning at the top near the stock, sew rows of the little buttons between the plaits. Let the rows of buttons be about a finger long, ex- tending up and down. Again take a dress of dark green cloth and let the waist be an elaborate one of the cloth trimmed with lace. Here comes a chance for the use of the little pearl buttons in figure shapes. They can be put on in triangles, in squares, and in straight rows, or in circles. Of course the work must be very neatly done or the smartness is entirely spoiled. They. are taking taffeta and cutting out wide collars in circular shape with scalloped edges. Buttons are set in these scallops and the cellar is finished at the top with a lace beading, through which a narrow ribbon is rumn. ' There is really no limit to the artistic possibilities of the small pez.1 but- ton, be It in cream color, in brown, in blue or in black. Match your dress as nearly as you can and place your button trimmings to ' harmonize, not only in color but in scheme. In the realm of the large fancy jeweled button there is something do- ing. These buttons now come as high as $50 each and are works of art, gems fit for the jewel case. They are used in elaborate ways as trimmings and are also employed for bptton pur- poses. One hands gown has a shoulder cape which buttons frankly down the front with three handsome jeweled buttons. These buttons are of gun metal, beautifully set with turquoise. Hints to the Smart Woman. It is a good rule, when buying but- tons this season, to select those that are very ornamental. Pick out but- tons that will look well upon a change of costume and then buy as hlgh as your purse will go. A London woman, noted far and wide for her smartness, has just bought six handsome buttons in gold filigree set Witl: rubies and rhinestones. They are to form part of the yoke trimming of a cranberry red cloth gown for fall. Later she will have them transferred to the front of her sealskin coat, While In the early spring they will be used upon a calling gown of gold colored cloth. Thus she will more than get back her money as a button investment. Neagly all the new sleeves-are full sleeves. Half sleeves should be cut very short and wide, and the prettiest and newest are cut off above the elbow. They consist of from ene to four capes, each cape falling over the other and prettily trimmed with bands of black velvet. To make these sleeves very little art is required of the dressmaker, but there must be a deal of taste expended upon the finish. They can be cut in points and elaborately braided or they can be bordered with lace, Or again, one can take the half sleeve and trim it with a knife plaited ruffle of cloth or of silk trimmed with a band of filet insertion If you are in doubt how to finish your nice cloth sleeves do not hesitate any longer, but cut them off above the elbow, set them very full into the ar hole and let them flare well. It would be no harm to have a cave sleeve with one small cap f3lling over this sleeve and possibly another. You will not require a handsome un- dersleeve of the lingerie order, but this is easily supplied. If you wear a hand- some shirt waist its sleeves can be made fluffy with lace flounces, while the vest can be pulled out 4n front and trimmed with lace frills. Such a waist is extremely pretty and makes a hand- some finish for your cloth suit. Mrs. Clarence Mackay's Suit. They are getting up these cloth suits in a very picturesque way. One lovely suit worn by Mrs. Clarence Mackay is a three plece suit in lustrous black cioth. The skirt is a length with ruffies of taffeta slightly gradu- ated toward the back. The walst consists of an Eton cut very low in the neck and fin.shed with a deal of nice hand embroidery. The sleeves are half length. And they are cut pointed and finished with embroid- ery. Underneath this is worn a shirt waist of gray crepe de chine, trimmed with pipings of gray chiffon and pipings of black and white. This gown is pretty as it can be and by means either difficult or extravag: That is the round nt beauty of so many of of the handsome gowns of the season. They can be copied at such very light se. Often.they can be imitated by skillful zemodeling One gown which has nothing m elaborate than a soft black t taffeta was blouse T out as to the originally 2 black st worn in the s arms. The neck was shabby 'skirt was frayed. Still the good and certain parts excellent. worn The owner of this ragged taffeta shirt waist suit purchased six yards of thin, soft black taffeta, showing a little black embroidered dot. And with this lnhe made a new pair of sleeves, of half length, opening over white lingerie un- dersleeves. Then she cut out the neck and made a stock and yoke of the black dotted geods. And finally, she sewed a bias band of the same around the frayed foot of the skirt. The change was perfect aud complete. Many an old waist is made new by the addition of new sleeves and a new stock, while the worn places under the arm are reinforced by an invisible patch put on underneath. This is particularly the case with the white shirt waist, which is so soon thrown aside. The Higher the price the more delicate the goods and the sooner it is gone, and unless new sleeves are put in the waist must be thrown away. Such a waist is admir- able as a foundation for the handsome lingerie shirt waists now needed for wear with the new cloth gowns. Put in sleeves of dotted muslin or dotted Swiss and trim the front with ruffles of the Swiss. A few pearl buttons can be set down the front as a finish. The New Guimpes. frhe making of the guimpe is a thing which should not be neglected by the woman with an old wardrobe to resurrect. The newest guimpes quite belie the name. They shirred and they are not wo the gown and not under it. ( these is made of piece-lace « shape with stock attache. the stock its proper shape tb narrow threading of pale t which ties around the th whole is profusely embro oriental stitches. Probably the greatest impr which can be made to an old o a local one. A woman dress_of navy blue voile f 1 middle of the season that it w lessly out of date. It was and without stvle. It lack smartness which is necessary gown. Making a trip to town this exhibited her n ue voile dressmaker, who iately enough Persian embroidery to the three flounces with which t was trimmed. She also edged th ruffles with the Persian. bands of Persian around as to the yok such a man make it a pe indicated a she made an aulette t which extended down over and made a sleeve cap. Finally, as a cap stro she added a stock of crushed velvet, chiffon weight, and a gir e chiffon velvet. This mad gown quite new again and was a comparatively low cost Another summer gown which n renovating was in a shade of g brown taffeta. This was made r narrow bands of black veivet in a way to reinforce the mat You can do a great deal with bands of black velvet if you know how to at it. One gown, a black taffeta, wa trimmed with dozens and dozens of narrow black velvet bands and put on in groups to indicate a hip yoke make a border for the skirt flounce. 1f you are going to use these velvet ba buy your black velvet by the bo it on freely and see that the bands not more than half an inch in wi with a preference for quarter h widths. In this way you get the t h which will be the making of yoke. touc gow The Cross-Stitch Girl The linen cro: titch girl is a bu: personage this season, for she has covered her possibilities. Indeed are without lmitation. She can an old tan linen waist and make it x’y 8O s with her own hand take an old cloth w all out and bring it right up to the mark by ad of em- rk it in thif w they embroider or work the design in red and blue to be used upen a dark red or a dark blue gown. It is a distinct art, this working of the shirt waist sets of linen, but such a profitable one that a woman cannot do better than learn it. The dark sets \\!.iI be worn all winter on the eloth shirt waists and on the walsts of taffeta.