The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 10, 1904, Page 11

THE SAN ' FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. 11 O many and so varied are the little perplexities that enter into almost @ery woman's life without finding satisfactory solution, and so many and so unusual are the letters that are con- stantly being received from women who cannot find an answer to their guestions in ny other way. that The Sun- dayv Call has decided to estab- sh a page devoted entirely nd exclusively to *“What Women Want to Know,” which will be edited by Madge Moore. Here every trial or tribula- tion of the mind and heart can now be poured out in the full consciousness that it will receive serious consider- ation—every question of fact or fiction—of the home and all its manifold tiesand tasks —of the inner sanctuary of woman’s life find ready so- ] Ladies, this page is lution. all your very own. What would you? Please address all commu- nications to Madge Moore, editor *What Women Want to Know.” Sunday Call, San Francisco. > without t such a sud- f war i the d be the among the that is searching or novel- amov or less a Ss OF copper urn t is used s a, Mongolia and a host appearances s not a sign gas heat ‘is prod which passes Whe s gracefully shakes hands and sinks in a black ne only does the Musco- The m in her true tea per and palat- for metal nd descrip- aken a vio- rass you cer- are any d gquaint jugs and same purpose as u cannot afford » the extent of nay at least se- t pleases you the best. re especially given to ck yourself as with touches of Russian costume is looking for. It may of heavy brocaded ening beads; or for there Orientalism the just what be regal satin, jex you are eled with may be a peasant costume, pictur- esque ! but whatever its textures whatever its tomes, you may rest assured that it never fails to @dd a touch of barbaric splendor to the drawing-roem of the twentieth cen- tury hostess. 5 s Answers to Correspondents THE SKIN and reddens ild be pro- s when one of chiffon se- As the fad hesitate rd the proper Your milliner to pin the veil to hionable manner and elemer a veil the hat. Is do nct affc suspect that you are protect your skin. Much y said and written for and he use of cold cream d pow- the ace previous to going out, observaticn it must be ad- ment rarely does any en when sparingly ap- plied, as it must be during the day, the oily nat of the cream will L the face to look extremely greasy whe o a warm room from outdoors; while the cream protect the catch and holds every particle of dust that through the veil, so that in the end the actual benefit derived is omewhat doubtful, aside from the soil- delicate laces which may come in ct with the face. Treating the furthermore pores, ts as a finds s way tace before retiring will prove more beneficial, and any increased redness produced by ripulation will have disappeared by morning. First bathe the face with warm water which is soapy, rinse and apply a cooling whit- ening cream composed of equal parts of oil of sweet almonds, rose water and witch hazel with sixty drops of simple tincture of benzoin. In the morning bathe the face with warm water to which a pinch of borax has been adJed, rinse with cool water, dry and dust with a pure face powder. CLEANING WITH GASOLINE. (Mary.)—A few drops of gasoline rub- bed on a soiled spot only makes a bad matter worse; while it will remove the actual spot it will leave a muddy tell- tale ring around the outer edges of the cleaned spot which is even more con- spicuous than the original stain. The best method is to immerse the article to be cleaned, and if this is not advis- able consult a professional cleaner. As gasoline is highly inflammable it must be used with great caution entirely away from the fire or the lighted gas jet or lamp. After using gasolfnein a room open all the windows for an hour or more and hang the cleaned articles in tve open air until the fumeg of the gasoline have entirely evaporated. ‘White kid gloves may be successfully SUSIAN WARE fFrre . IVSSIANY cleaned in the following manner: Pour' a pint of gasoline in a bowl, put the gloves on the hands, button and wash by immersing' the hangs in the fluid and rubbing the hands together as if washing them. Do the work as rapidly as is convenient, being particular to wash every part of the gloves well Have more fresh gasoline in another bowl, rinse the gloves in this and hang out to dry. INVITATIONS TO DINE (Mrs. W. B. N.)—It would be very discourteous to invite your husband’s old friend to dinner to meet several ladies and gen- tlemen and not include his young wife. The fact that you have never met her does not relieve you of the obligation. Make it a point to call with your hus- band when his friend and wife will be at their P(Jt"l and then extend the In- vitation to dinner to both; or, you may send a cordial note the next day asking them todine—informally to meet a few friends. State the date clearly and the hour, being very particular as to full house number and street, giv- ing anv other directions you may deem desirable for their guildance as stran- gers g the city. A hostess shakes hands with her guests upon their arri- val and upon their departure as well. ADJUSTING CORSETS PROPERLY (C. B. R.)—When ugly lines become noticeable about the hips it is high time to give more serious thought to the corsets as well as to exercise. Fre- quently the trouble is not altogether wrought by advancing years, but is due to a badly fitting or incorrectly adjusted corset which exaggerates every faulty line. Manufacturers boast that there are about forty ghapes in corsets, each slightly different and made with a view to meeting the de- mands of some peculiar line discov- ered in feminine make-up. It is not strange, therefore, that women so often make mistakes in selecting this important accessory. Many depart- ment stores now fit their customers without charge and this has proved of great value ‘to those who were in doubt as to what they needed. Do not confound this plan with that of having a corset made to order, for you are merely fitted with the ready-made style best suited to your needs. The made-to-order corset, while very desir- able, is costly. If the plan of having the corset fitted at the store is not fea- sible in your location study your figure carefully and note its peculiarities, whether long or short in waist line, full at bust, hips, etc.; then by consult- ing your local dealer the requires shape of corset may be more readil obtained. Do not get a corset too large—it should fit to be comfortable. A good guide for the average figure is to have the waist measure of the cor- set two or three inches smaller than the belt. To lace the corset correctly start at the top in the usual way and when the waist line is reached pull out VOMIN $IZAAR_ | Costumes From- Goldstein & Co. g two long loops of the lace and put the end of the lace back through next eyelet in same side of corset. Then proceed to last holes as before; tie in last eyelet and across, in a bow. Put on corset, draw out or take up .long loops until the corset is the correct size and tie loops securely. i 4 CAUSE AND CURE OF FEVER SORES—(Eunice)—Bruises or scratches inflicted by the careless use. of the tooth brush are productive sources of fever sores, as well as a feverish con- dition of the system resulting from specific or general ill health. In its first stages the ordinary sore is com- posed of small vesicles containing clear water fluid. It is only in an advanced case or when a very morbid state of the“blood exists that the sore assumes a pustulous condition. Persons who are thus afflicted should consult theic family physician at once and take a thorough course of treatment to purify the blood. This annoying and disfigur- ing trouble is truly a case where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. After the sore is well developed there is little to do but endure the evil, but if taken vigorously in hand the minute the peculiar stinging sensation is felt, further progress may be arrest- ed or, at least, the trouble be reduced to a minimum. After trying all man- ner of salves and lotions I have found nothing so effective as alum. Touch the spot with the least possible amount of cream and then dust thickly with powdered alum, repeating as often as the alum rubs off. . As soon as the water collects in the sore pierce the skin with a fine needle, press out the water and dust again with alum. The astringent quality of the alum soon WA\ ————— O 'I/gf/" . fi”’fi; A f fl?’ff”fl} - the Coid offending spot. cream or agy oily substance should be used cautiously as grease seems to have a most irritating effect on fever sores, promoting rather than checking the dries ap trouble; Use only enough cream to prevent the lips from getting very rough from the use of the alum. PREPARING A BRIDAL OUTFIT.— (Mina)—For the wedding dress, select silk muslin, crepe de chine, or one of the newer weaves, liberty or duchesse satin, taffeta or peau de cygne, If of a thin fabric nothing could be more charming than the new (old) 1830 skirt gathered at the belt and having gradu- ating tucks interspersed with bands of filmy lace running around the foot of the skirt to just above the knees. Full blouse, wide girdle, deep yoke and bertha of lace and immense tucked slecves with lingerie undersleeves of lace complete the costume. A modish traveling costume is of mixed tweed, the coat preferably in short three- quarter length and with a jaunty skirt just clearing the ground. A dressy cos- tume is of fine dark brown broadcloth or zibeline and is indispensable for call- ing, etc. It should be made on rather elaborate lines, having the skirt with short sweep and a drop-shoulder Eton jacket or plaited coat smartly trimmed with touches of silk, panne velvet braid and with buttops. Then a modish storm MO guit or long waterproof English coat should be a part of the outfit. Haye also a dainty tea gown of rose colored crepe elaborately trimmed with cream colored lace and a touch of black vel- vet to give character. Add several pretty dressing sacques, accordion plaited and plain, trimmed with lace embroidery and ribbon, and a kimona of warm-hued Oriental silk. - If you would have the outfit complete add one all white and one all black evening dress; an evening cloak of white cloth richly trimmed with lace, fur and em- broldery, a theater gown of crepe or soft silk, several fancy waists and an abundance of trig shirt waists. Hats, gloves, shoes, stocks, etc., tp match the different costumes are necessary, and Jast, but not least, the lingerie, which is no small item, as it must be of the daintlest description. In addition to the regular lingerie a generous supply of black silk and a few colored petti- coats are essential, not forgetting some elaborate white ones, for use with tea and evening gowns. CORRECTING ONE'S GAIT (K. L. M.)—If the hips and ankles seem strong the wobblv,gait often noticed in wo- men is probably due to nervousness and a lack of muscular control of the knees superinduced by weakness. Ex- ercise which will strengthen the leg muscles and especially the knees will be of benefit. Build up the system by careful diet, sleep in a cool, well venti- lated room and walk as much as time and strength will permit. To attempt to walk several miles in one day and then give up for a week from sheer ex- haustion is foily, doing you more harm than good. E in walking by going a quarter or half mile each day, gradu- ally increasing the distance. Little fa- tigue will result and the mu es will bd slowly strengthened. To derive real health and pleasure from the walk, al- ways dress especially for the exercise in a comfortable, sensible manner. The skirt should escape the ground, that the arms may be kept in a normal po- sition. A short jacket is preferable to a long one, as it insures warmth with little weight. Wear no heavy petti- goats or tight bands. The hat should e a light soft felt, and the shoes com- fortable with broad heels; gloves should be iarm and lgose. A chic walking suit and a shirt waist is the jdeal costume for walking. In addi- tion to the outdoor exercise follow these exercises morning and night, wearing only a loose gown. Stand erect and raise the body slowly on the balls and toes of the feet, coming down again with the feet in normal position. This will strengthen the muscles in the calves of the legs. To strengthen the knees and the upper legs, stand erect, then lower the body by bending the knees only until the posterior muscles and heels are as near together as pos- sible in a sitting position; then raise the body erect without the aid of any support. Repeat both exercises sev- eral times. To relieve any soreness which mav result from the first trials, bathe the legs with equal parts of al- cohol and tincture of camphor. NEW TABLE WRINKLES (F. S. H.—Never has dainty elegance been s0 much in evidence in table furnish- ings as at the present day. China, cut glass and silver are wondrously beautiful, even among goods of mode- rate price, while the fitments pro- vided for the purse of plenty are veri- table works of art. The woman who can boast of a well filled linen closet is to be envied. The most correct lunch- eon table is arranged without a table- cloth. In the center of the table is placed an embroidered or hemstitched centerpiece and upon it is the fern dish or vase of cut flowers. The plate holding the soup plate or bouillon cup is arranged upon a plate doily. Small doilies are also placed under the water glasses, bonbon and olive dishes. The centerpiece and doilies should match, though if of hemstitched linen a bit of color may be introduced in the form of small silk embroidered .doilies to match the floral decorations. The effort to introduce color in high-grade table linen has never succeeded, the fas- tidious housekeeper preferring to give color in delicate china and in floral decorations. Before putting over the tablecloth the table should first be covered with an undercloth of cotton felt, which is made especially for the purpose and in different widths; this felt not only protects the table, but deadens all sound and greatly im- proves the appearance of the linen, no matter what it costs. To further protect the table from hot dishes use mats of asbestos under plates, platters, ete. CARE OF THE HANDS (Tessle)—In infancy nature has seemingly bestowed perfect hands upon all the human fam* 1ly, whether rich or poor, high or low; growth and the numerous occupations of Hfe obliterate the perfect curves, bringing out angular lines and coarsen- ing the skin. Beautiful and dimpled hands are only possible to the woman who is entirely exempt from physical labor, but smooth, fair hands with well shaped nails are within the reach of | BY MADGE M@ORL the busy woman If she will spend half an hour daily In keeping them in con- dition and avold neediess exposure. For example, always wear gloves of heavy kid when doing. any kind of rough grimy work. If you cannot bor- row a worn pair from some male mem- ber of your family buy a pair of un- lined dogskin gloves, ch as are bought by men; such glc are heav- ter than those worn by women and will last longer. Size seven and one- half will fit the av House- keepers_ are constantly coming fn con- r things which e they may tact with dust tend to soil th seem reasonably hence I claim that women s their hands several t plenty of soap and warm wat using ; wash- ing does not age the hands as many pecple think. Alwa rinse the hands In cool water after ng and dry thorqughly on a soft to Obtain a reliable cream, fre 1 apply to the hanc day, rub- bing it in well af! shing, wiping away all surplus with a clean towel Before retiring clean hands and rub with cocoa butter then t Wear I back freely with almond meal gloves perforated at the palmg at night. In a moath observe a decided improvement. HEAVY EYEBROWS (Emma.)— Do not ‘think of having eyebrows which meet shaved off above the nose, for the hair would only thicker and coarser. If you must have the hairs removed done by electricity. Howe careful brushing, using a small nail- brush and be sure that you do not ap- ply any oily substance to the eyebrows, for it will promote the growth of the hair, which you especially want to avoid. FASHIONABLE COIFFURE; B.)—The ¢! woman, fully the importance of a and ifs relation to a m: ble, never si is part of her toilet; it is only the unsophisticated or careless woman who mars a perfect gown by badly arranged ha While elaborate effects are only ssible to the woman -who can command the ser- vices of a skilled hairdresser, every woman can acquire a certain amount of skill by persistent effort, which will enable her to do her hair in a becoming manner. Mind you, I becoming, for this should be the keynote always in mind; it matters little how fashion- able any particular arrangement may be, if it is not strictly becoming to the individual it will prove a failure. The only way to decid® the matter is to ex- periment with several styles and select the one most becoming. The low coif- fure is the latest and is very charming, resting against a fair neck, but not every woman can wear it successfully; as a consequence the high coiffure and pompadour, in modified forms, the waved style and others still hold secure placs becoming a are to the majority of faces. Hair parted in the middle, softly waved and puffed out at the sides, a la Barrymore, is another popular mode. The back may be gath- ered in a coil or puffs, a trifle below the crown, or in a low coil on the neck, as best suits the individual. To arrange the low coiffure, comb the hair back and tie midway below the crown and the neck; then loosely coil and arrange the long strands in a figure 8, the lower loop resting against the neck. Occa- sionally it is plaited loosely befora forming the figure 8; this mode, how- ever, is confined almost entirely to morning wear on windy days, when a firm adjustment is essential to neat- ness. The front hair is, of course, part- ed off from ear to ear and waved and puffed out to becoming softness in either case, with ends coiled around the ribbon which holds the back strands. ad TRAINING CHILDREN (Mother)— In a limited space only a few essen- tial points in child tralning can be given, but you will find the hints val- uable if you will act upon them. Offen- sive table manners seem to be nat- ural to the majority of children, and this fault should be taken in hand early in their cdreers. Correct manners should be taught and enforced as soon as children are old enough to sit at the table. Very young children must receive oral instruction as well as ex- ample untll their small minds grasp the ideas and how and when to apply them. This may seem tiresome to carry on daily, but it must be dome to pro- duce results. To overcome the con- tinual breach of good table manners on the part of older children, and save continual correction, I suggest that you write out a list of correct forms and insist that they be memorized, then there will be no reason for such flip- pant excuses as “I forgot,” or “Did It just for fun.” Try to make them un- derstand that it is never smart to be 1ll bred and that you appreciate and admire any duty well performed, no matter how trivial. As your governess has evidently been very careless in per- forming her duties, nothing but an en- tire change In discipline will bring about the desired improvement. Take the matter of deportment firmly In hand and Insist kindly but firmly upon prompt obedlence, and when a capa- ble governess is secured co-operats with her. Permitting the children to dine at the table with the elders as a special honor for good behavior may Inspire a desire for rapid reform. Tact and firmness will accomplish more than harshness. i . dadigal FOR MASSAGE AND SOFTENING THE SKIN (A. L. L.)—I could have ad- vised you more intelligently had you told me the kinds of cream you have been using and which “dried your skin.” Pure honey and almond cream is: one of the finest preparations to keep the skin soft and smooth, and I have never known it to irritate even a very sensitive skin. Your druggist can doubtless supply you with it. Rose- water, glycerine and witchhazel, equal parts, is another excellent lotion, pro- vided you can use glycerine on your skin; many people cannot even when it is greatly diluted. As a tissue build- er and a pleasant unguent for massage nothing can excel pure cocca butter. Get a small quantity from a rellable druggist and be sure that it is per- fectly sweet; always keep it in a-cool place, for it becomes rancid ia & short time if exposed te heat. |