The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 10, 1904, Page 10

Lovely Spring Crea- tions That Are an Im- provement Upon Pari Dresses and Upon Which | the French Modistes | Look With Envy—Beau- | tiful Etons for Women | Who Like the Snng: Lit- tle Coat and the Amiable | Three-Quarter Cloak for | Women Who Are Regal in Ntyle—The Dress Which Queen Alexandra Will Wear to the Derby. [le Mrs. Bradley-Martin Collar. - —— * By Augusta Prescott. {REE-PIECE suit by all madame,” and the gen- dressmaker bowed low. Madame has a figure which be charmingly set off by, spring tone, developed in a g ria and the man bowed still lower. fashionable dressmaking t for women. It was one s which are so i Lenten retreat: t fashionable women flee f Lent to spend the ecting gowns for the auty bears any relation to F: e—and who can deny it? abur ndant excuse for the little thing prettier 1d than the interior ) during Lent. g in the world id the New York viously as she looked “and that is the in- erior of a handsome American estab- r for over here they have at- the Parisian ich even kers do not have t madame,” continyed the ker, spreading out a beau- nana colered wvoile, “for she o wear a suit of this description. e ig dark, rather slight, not too and very w shaped. Madame d look lovely in this.” in question was of a light t vellow enough to be warm y days come, nor too light Its material was a of voile, one of those cashmere and and made over original style. eabi suit was a “three-piece suit,” as the dressmaker : i, and was with a lace et. It was Persian em- e was dyed the principal Suit. ring. And this Etor The continue to be there And ther ttle basque and Wwraps, coat of the asions, But year And the the Etor 11 hail Eton is the grea 1 and it It s0 al- or belt line an is dead ch lies in the 4 belt lines he he coming of the Eton ther revival of the styles and shap: vith their present show new va- them m six or actually are fastened in slender buckle s which n. come u trim n make e affair serits not the second glimpse, or make it a thing mmed with long wedge shaped tabs, upon which the handsomest buttons year are liberally displayed One of these girdles, which is to fall @t the back of the skirt in handsome lengths, has tabs that are embroidered and trimmed with Persian bands in a)- ter e rows. Lace insets appear here and there and the girdle is finally fin- ished with a very deep fringe, which sets off the rather plain skirt very handsomely in the back. 4And what 2 holiday it is to be far very mice SHTTHITZ the home dressmaker, she who can make her own girdles, her own stocks and her own vests. With dyed lace, n a shade of willow green, with bits of colored embrojdery, with inexpensive jabots and with a few lace frills she can dress up her tailor-made gown into something which leoks suspi- clously like an expensive creation. One of the very pretty ways for the home dressmaker to alter her old Eton and make it new is by means of the cuffs. The sleeves n be built upon unalterable lines, but the can always be ghanged about a little. The woman with ple: of money will go to the shors purchase a nd pair. of lingerie cuffs costing about $5. They will be in chiffon, knife pleased, and there will be three ruffies, each a little deeper than cne above it antl in the chiffon there will be a tiny thread of gold. lingerie cuffs 1 the cloth cuffs be tacked in They will fall over the hand in very pretty lace frills of thé sort which mark the Eton as being right up ‘o date. the over will The wom with a little real lace on hand possesses an immense advan- tage over the woman who has no such possession. Ready-made ruching be bordered with real lace, as decp & one may possess, and this can be sliped on ov the Eton cuff and se- cured in place so that will fall in swishy fashion over 1ds. Ruchings of all k ed impres: into the service and lin springing up on every hand. They a ly adjusted, for the ald cuff is ry eas removed and the lingerie ruffles > put on over the shirt cuff. de of it, AS was fc custom. The 1830 Tendencics Preserve your and Lines. 1830 lines, dvised an who rather vou wonder- And how shall 1 do it?” asked the lad urveying her ampie proporti in full length mir which had been rather cruelly provided by the modiste. Let me put a Mrs. Bradley Martin ollar around you k,” said the mo- iste, “and you will see what I mean.” Taking a very wide lace coilar from a she threw it around fhe f her patron securing it at the throat with a very large round pin of turquoise matrix “Now,” said she, pulling the collar down over the shoulders until it nearly a drawer, ghoulders « touched the elbows, “you will see your 1830 lines.” The woman looked at herself in amazement. Her t peared short was suddenly grown lon- ger and her shoulders which had al- ways been hunched up were now of the correct slope. “Wonderful, wonderful,” oat which had ap- was all she could sa The lace collar which wrought this transformation was not a black collar a white one. The latter is only for lender figures and the former only for those who dress in black. But it was a collar of lace in a soft shade of wood brow ot yellow enough to look cut of place upon & dark cloth gown. “Let me show you an Alexandrine voke,” said the mcdiste. “We some- times call it a yoke collar. It is not 1djustable, but must be made upon the gown. Its material is broadcloth.” Taking a diamond shaped yoke collar of fine broadcloth, chiffon broadcioth it is called, she pinned it to the shoulders with quick touches. One point was fastened in the middie of the back and the other two points were brought down over the shoulders and pinned flat. The front was fastened under the chin and held by a jabot of real lace. The effect was decidedly Victorian. “I copld give you the 1830 hips in very much the same way,” declared the mo- diste, “and in spite of the very full skirts you would look taller and slen- derer.” The Skirts of the Spring. The day of the skirt which hugs the hips seem to be past, or rather the day of the skirts that are eel-skin right down to the knees. Those who ecannat A JFOLIREC CARE 7 f"a A Bozzro wedr the gathered skirts are allowed to wear skirts with fitted hips, with the fullness all coming below. There are skirts madé of voile, ex- quisite things, and skirts made of can- " vas weaVes, too lovely for anything, with gathered hips and long, flowing lines that are the very culmination of poetry. To make a skirt hang just as it ghould hang is the problem of the dressmaker and, no matter how clever she may be, she realizes her responsi- bility. One subterfuge and a pretty one, is that of building a skirt with slot seams. The skirt is box plaited and the plaits are inverted. These are stitched in the popular slot-seam style. And the “slots” are left open to’ the hips. They are stitched tight at the belt line, but are opened just below the hips. This makes the skirt very full and it falls away in very long and very graceful lines. Another subterfuge is one that might be called no subterfuge at all. The skirt is fitted tightly at the hivs. hat is then cut in such a manner that it suddenly becomes very wide all the way around. This is the Eugenie skirt, which is quite as full in the front as in the back and very full also on the widea . S 2AcH VIEW The straight eight-gored skirt is ideal for the young girl, for the debutante and for the slender woman. It is also good upon all women who ar: shapely. It is also made with eight gores, all very long and all very straight. It isa SHOULIERETTE OF ITHE 2905 revival of the day when skirts were made by tearing off just so many breadths of goods and sewing them together up and down the seams.. The skirt, gfter it has been sewed to- ther as to the seams, is attached to a band and is “hung.'” The hanging censists in making the skirt an inch teo long in front and six inches too long in the back, as a little seamstress expressed it. And then in shirring it around the hips. The Pretty Hip Shirrings. “You take your hips and you shirr them,” so directed a seamstress to an apprentice, The seamstress quoted is in charge of a large sewing room at the top of a Fifth-avenue mansion, where plain gowns are being made for very fashionable mistresses to wear at Newport next summer. The material upon which the appren- tice was working was a gun metal gray foulard figured in blue. The skirt, which was stralght and fitted with eight gores, had been “hung” and was now being shirred around the hips. In this case the shirrings were to be what is known as rope shirrings, and a great deal of material had been al- lowed for the insertion of the ‘‘rope.” Fashionable shirred hip yokes are lowered a little in theé middle of the front and raised in the back. This gives a pretty dip which can be ac- centuated by a dipping girdle, which can be worn without a metal orna- ment. “Scratch the gathers,” sounded old fashioned to modern ears, when a mod- iste handed a skirt which she had just fitted to a fashionable patron over to one of her assistants. The skirt was one which belonged to a cotton cheviot shirt waist suit, and the gathers were to be literally scratched all around the belt. Then the hips were to be strapped with a stitched band of the glods. The material, which was light in weight, was in a soft willow green, Jvith pretty figures upon it. It was trimmed with bands of willow green linen. It looks as though the day of the full skirt had returned and as though the vogue of the wide skirt would con- tinue for some time. There is no dan- ger of the crinoline and very little danger that skirts will be stiffened to set out around the figure. The ten- dency is toward very soft materials which will droon gracefully, no mat- ter how full the skirt may be built. The gown which Queen Alexandra will wear to the Derby has been de- termined. It is a gun metal gray can- vas, rather close in weave and re- sembles the Irish poplin of which she is so fond. The skirt is made full around the belt line, but the fullness is pushed away in front so as to come at the sides and in the back. This makes a plain front panel % The bottom of the skirt, which is extremely long, is trimmed with a band of Calcutta embroidery at least eighteen_inches deep. It was a gift to her Majesty the Queen from Lady Mary Curzon. Over this Indian em- brdidery there is a lattice of new blue ribbon, with the lattices very large and very wide apart, so as not to kill the colors of the embroidery. The waist is on the blouse order, rather snug for a blouse, and trim- med around the belt with a deep band of Ingian embroidery covered with a ribbon lattice. The great melon- shaped sleeves are trimmed in the same manner. A hat of gray straw, trimmed with red flowers and a red plume, will top this fetching costume. Among the things which are seen this spring in London, some of them from India, some from Paris and some from the Asiatic coast, are deep col- lars of Oriental embroidery. Embroidered collars, cut out, so as to show the gown beneath. Wonderful ribbon lattices, which can be removed and Mjusled‘o other gown, each lattice tMm with a fancy button at its intersec The most marvelous button trim- mings, many buttons being built upon button molds and covered with vel- vet to be used as a skirt trimming. Strappings of cloth, with a button on each end, for the trimming of skirt panels. Exceedingly decorative trimmings of braid, put on in raised fashion, stuffed and made to set out like em- broidery. i Curiously eonvoluted braid, inter- twined without losing its Grecian sim- plicity, yet making a very nice tri ming. And there are full skirts, so full as to hang in voluminous folds, with a Grecian braided pattern upon the skirt, so deftly arranged that the pat- tern is preserved in spite of the full- ness of the skirt. ¢ Hip yokes with front panels at- tached, which reach down to the hem of the gown. Cloth yokes upon silk gowns, cloth lattices upon foulards, cloth panels upon taffeta dresses and trimmings of cloth upon all gowns of all weights, from chiffon and voile to the heavier grades of brocade and velvet. an- med ILLOVE AT FIRST SIGHT | By Henri Drouan ’ FMademoiselle wishes——" began the clerk. “Pardon, Monsieur, I am Madame Mon- tresar,” interrupted the young woman. = “If Madame corrected the clerk, “I am sure that M. Grigon would allow the buckle to be sent to the hotel, tainly, yes.” “But I do not wish him to send it to the hotel,” replied Madame Mon- tresor, *“I will call again to-morrecw, and then, perhaps, M. Grigon may be in.” wishes,” cer- “We thank you aid the clerk. Madame Montresor left the jewelry shop in the Rue Scribe and walked slowly until she met at the next corner a man who bowed gravely to her and fell easily into step at her side. “He was not there,” remarked Ma- dame, briefly. “Too bad,” said the man. ‘“Another day lost.” “Ye said Madame, “and it is ex- pensive, this staving at the Hotel Ritz. “How much is left now?"” bout two thousand francs.” yell, that’'s enough for another ' mused Madame, as she and her companion walked toward the hotél. The following day Madame Mon- tresor and the man walked into Gri- gon's shop again. The clerk who had waited upon her came forward. “M. Grigon is within,” he said. M. Grigon stepped forward. ‘“What would it be that you wish?” he quired. Then he looked at the young wo-, man. The man who had accompanied her strolled toward the door and stood swinging his walking stick. “My father.” began Madame, “Herr Rudolph Richter, wishes me to select the gift which he proposes for my bithday. Yesterda>” your assistant was good enough to show to me a diamond buckle which would please me.” Grigon stared at her again. Her eyes dropped, and a faint flush came into her cheeks under the steady gaze. “Would it be the Burmah buckle?” asked Grigon, finally. “Perhaps. The man did not replied Madame. Grigon turned to a huge safe and took from it a tray cortaining gems which an expert would have valued at more than one fortune. “That is the one,” said Madame, pointing to the most beautiful piece in in- say.” the tray. “That is the Burmah buckle,” said Grigon. "gAnd its price?” inquired Madame. “Eighty thousand francs,” said Grigon. Madame picked up the buckle and —_— held it to her throat. “Is it well, there?” she asked, and her glance fell straight into the eyes of Grigon. “Adorable,” said the Frenchman. _“To-morrow,” continued Madame, “is my birthday—the first since the death of my husband—and my father desires to give me what I like best. Now, if Monsieur would be good enough to bring the buckle to the hotel to-night I have no doubt that Herr Richter will purchase it from him.” That evening Grigon went to the Hnt_?l Ritz. Herr Richter appeared, saying that his daughter was in the garden. With Grigon he went in search of her. They found her in the balcony. Grigon seated himself beside her, and Herr Richter walked away. Grigon took the wonderful gems from the case. “I do not know,” he began, “if Madame understands love at first sight. She has had the good- ness to tell me that she has been but recently made a widow, through the unfortunate death of her husband. I have seen Madame driving in the Bois these many days, but until yesterday when she came to my shop I had not know how much I loved her. If Madame will deign to show me the favor of hoping that I may ask her to be my wife, then she will aceept from me the Burmah buckle, in token of her favor.) adame looked at him wondering- ‘Monsieur is good,” she said. Grigon laid the buckle in her hand. “It_shall be as Madame wishes,” he He bowed and bade her good- On the veranda he met Herr “I have asked your daughter wife,” he isaid, “and I have left with her the Burmah buckle for her birthday gift.” Richter went back fo the balcony. Madame held up the buckle for him to see. “That was easier than stealing it.” he said briefly. Then he continued, “What will you do? Shall we take the midnight train for Ber 3 him. you.” A month later Grigon and Madame Montresor were married. She wore the Burmah buckle at her throat. The following day the papers told how Madame Grigon had been robbed of her jewels, and later in Berlin the jewelers were buying unset gems of great value from a man who would have been recognized - the Rue Scribe as Herr Richter, the father of Mnfiiatmé !:don(renor, ut Grigon had more gems, an told his wife that the loss of the buckic 3hould be replaced on her next birth- ay Iy. she replied, “I shall marry Then I shall give the gems to