The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 21, 1903, Page 10

10 THE SUNDAY CALL + LAt 2 . Fashion’ ing Glory - Fashion’s Coming Ulor. Beautiful Designs Which | Are to Be Tranquilized by Well Become the Debutante | Heavier Goods Until They An end Which Make the Matron l Fit for Wear of a Summer’s Look a Great Deal Younger l Day—Gowns of Mrs. Arthur Than She Really Is—How the Paget and the Duchess of Man- Beautiful Light Summer Stuffs chester. RS Tistime o d y &reams of sum- mer timsl Time to think of the cool, sweet mornings and their gowns of crisp figured lawn; time to think of afterncons with their of volle taffeta, mull &nd batiste; time to think of the summer evenings and their vellings, their silvered chiffons, their wonderful tissues and their transparencies. Time to think of summer cress! Once upon a day there walked through the eity streets a woman on summer gowns intent; and in a shop window she esw that which seemed to her the em- bodiment of summer coolness. It was only & summer etamine, but it was in a pale coffes shade, and its texture was very ellky and its durablility pronounc.d. It was one of those new etamines that neither full up mor fade, but keep their delicucy and shape forever. Purchasing this gown, she made it up on lines that suggest the shirt waist suit The waist was quite plain, with only one wide Gibsonian plait in the middle of the fropt. But this one plait was so wide that it covered aimost the entire front of the waist. The border of the pluit— each edge of it—was trimmed with very narrow white brald, and the uppers of the siceves are also braided The gown, as looked at from the front shows sleeves which bag below the elb end are fitted with a big puff of Bru lace, that heavy Bruges which is so pup- ular this sesson. The cuffs themselves are deep and are made entirely of V ciennes lace, 80 delicately becoming t hand; end thus two stvles of worn. The skirt is plain as to the there are tycks upon each side, b e, hit w the Tip yoke, which are released (o make a great flare. And then there is the touch of black which is observed in little black wvelvet bows upon the sleeves and in a belt which is made of altermate rows of black and white braid. The gown is ready for sum mer, and the besuty of it is that it can Le worn In the lap of spring whilc yet the cooler winds blow, for with etamine yo1 can o so much. For Summer Days. And there is the story of & womaa who wanted @ gown for summer afterncons. But being not very well fixed in_ this world's goods, she desired that it be suit- ahbie also for wear in the house in winter time—one of those dresses which you can put on in the evening t~r nice A mown to meet all requirements was found in & cement gray goods, greatly re- sembling veiling. You would aimost have called it & pew edition of nun’'s velling, for iu certain lights it looked so substan- tial, yet in other lights It was quite transparent. This gown was made up in a wholly de- lightful way by being provided with two skirts. One skirt was very long, im- mensely long—a veritable skirt for dinner or for one's best reception wear. When trimmed with a little lace and a great By AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. ’“ ™% worn out anotner must be purchased: and then there must be a new skirt to wear with the new waist, and so on in an sndless chain of waists and skirts. The Coming Summer Skirt. The new skirt will be a trimmed affair, #0 much is well known. But the uncer- tainty lies in the manner in which it shall be trimmed. Shall the trimming be around the hips or around the foot of the skirt? Shall it be in the shapé of hip shirring or hip tucks? Or shall there be a hip yoke of lace? Aside from the startling possibilities of the trimmed hins there is another ques- tion to be decided in the case of the trimmed skirt and that is the one of the foot flounce. Shall the skirt be fitted with a real flounce or shall the skirt be merely cut to flare? Or, yet, shall it be one of those new box plaited skirts with thibaxes all stitched flat, right to the very knees, and then released so that a woman looks like a much beruffied morning glory? This box plaited skirt stitched to tif§ Kknees was brought over by Mrs. Paget from London. Another style of skirt, and a very popu- lar one, is made to stimulate the over- gkirt. Deep plain flounces are put upon the skirt so as to. look like the semi- skirt; and one of these falls over the oth- er. The flounces rise at the back, after the manner of the Spanish flounce, and 50 the skirt is trimmed front and back. If you want the trimmed skirt take a very wide panel of lace and set it down the front. Let it be eight or ten inches wide, if you have the lace, and let it reach right from the belt down to the floor. Now, take a length of lace, and travel around the skirt with it, selecting a knee haight and, with due regard for the Spanish tendencies, let it rise at the back and dip in the fronf. Follow this row of lace with another and similar strip and you have a skirt that is trimmed precisely like one which Mrs. Arthur Paget wore the other day at a farewell luncheon give in her honor. Gowns of the ‘“Smart Set.” A dress which was very pleasing to the eye was worn by the Duchess of Man- chester in the south. Built of mercerized goods, it was made all plaits. The skirt was a mass of little side plaits like ac- cordion plaitings and the waist was also plaited, but in the waist the plaits wers stitched down flat, so that they might N\ 1171A ZZA(COWN’ rather longer wuan wide. This is laid around the hat in a swirl and is shaped with the fingers until there are many folds. There is a border of lace. which falls over the brim of the hat, and this border, consists of lace points, which just hide the face a trifle without obscuring it. The hat that is trimmed with lace, and which has a large border, is not new with this season. But it is still the vogue, and so pretty that it will be worn a great deal. Ore requires, in order to make it, only a lace scarf or a scarf of chiffon, with a border of lace, and then the hat is trimmed, for any one can put on the scart, it requiring no skill. The Day of the Flying Ends. It is the day of fluffiness and flying ends, and the young girl of society finds her- self fitted out with everytning that is be- coming to her. But the matron can also wear the floating ends, the streamers at the back of the neck, the sash and the Ioose, airy things of dress; and, therefore, she should rejoice that they are in, for they are becoming, inexpensive and they always create an effect. So, what more could any one want? Belts that are made in girdle form, pointed in the front and as deep as the figure will permit, are finished in the back with fiying ends. Bishop stocks, demure in front, with the tabs hanging under the 8 BB color as well. The bow of tulle, so charming when newly made, is far from pretty after a day or two; and the little turn-over band which was so exquisite the first day must be renovated before it can be worn a sec- ond time. So, too, with the bishop stock, which is so easily wrinkled down and S STOO> /AR WHITE QJETERMNOON LOWN FOR SUMMERTIME deai of shirring and ruching 1t was a model skirt, lovely quite beyond the wore tell. ther <kirt was plazza length, just ing upon the floor, with four or five to =pare. It was trimmed with ehirrings, which were laid on very flat around the hips and then stitched down to make them still flatter. The waist, which would go with any- thing, had a lace yoke, and there were el- bow sieeves, to be fitted with deep melon- shaped puffs to the elbows; and it had a cunning arrangement of lace straps which were attached to the yoke and al- lowed to hang down in a very clever fashion. The two skirts made a nice change for the gown. When two skirts are made to one walst —and this year it is the custom to buiid two to one, it is ordained that one skirt shall be semi-pedestrian and the other en train; and that one shall differ from an- other in elegance as one star differeth from another in glory. If one be plain the other shall be radiant, and if one be severe the other shall be flufty, The custom is an extravagant one, for there never yet existed a waist that would outwear two skirts, so as soon as one waist as well have been tucks. There were ruffies of lace to serve as a yoke and the sleeves had shirrings at the top and deep, baggy puffs at the elbow. This design is startlingly simple and is made upon a pattern which could be imitated by any woman who can wield a needle. The Duchess, by the way, has a fancy for wearing gowns that might be worn by any woman, and she has a positive talent for wearing them, not humbly, but as a Duchess should wear her gowns! Her dresses, while of good material and beau- tifully fitted, are not of the rich and rare variety which one expects to find upon an American woman of title and an heiress, for her Grace is very unassuming in at- tire. She wore recently a cotton goods, sheer, with an art nouveau figure. The ground was black, the figure pink and gray. With the summer gown the summer hat will appear and this will be one of the hats of the season, flat and trimmed in becoming ways, all in accord with fash- fon’s decrees in the matter of hats. And one of these is a plazza hat for nice wear, yet so simple that any one might imitate it. The whole trimming consists of a veil or scarf, bordered with lace and chin, are made fluffy in the back by a big bow of tulle, which is as soft and delicate as it can possibly be. If a woman has any talent for light and pretty dressing, this will surely be the season of her deep content, for the devices of the winter offer her peculiar opportu- nity for the very styles at which she is an adept® The choux, the tufts, the ro- settes, the tassels and the rufflings are all right in her line. But let the woman who is not good at fluffy fixings beware, for herein she will meet her doom. Bows of tulle, if worn at all, should be worn accurately at the back of the neck or directly under the chin, not put on under one ear, In reckless style. And the sash ends should float gracefully, not loesely and uncertainly, as is their wont upon those who do not know how to wear them. The debutante who looks sweet in any- thing can take liberties with dress, but let not the matrons do so. There are several wise fashion laws’ which the woman who is going to dress becomingly would do well tb heed, and one of these is that her small finishings shall be immaculate, not only in the matter of cleanliness, but in that of freshness and with sash ends that show the wear and tear of one afternoon. All must be more than dainty; and in these days of expen- £ive “littles” this means a great deal. What the Dressmakers Say. The dressmakers, taking pity on the woes of their patrons, are advising many little rules for the preservation of the summer wardrobe. And one of these r lates to the bishop stock and its kin, the stock with wide<ront tabs, and the stock with stole ends hanging down the front. Their rule {s that, at night, when taken off, the stock is slightly moistened with water, and then, while still damp, that it be laid between sheets of heavy paper and put away under a welght. In the morning it will be as smooth as though freely ironed. As for the turnovers, they can be treated in the same way, but the bow of tulle is hopelessly gone, after one wearing, unless indeed it can be rejuvenated with mag- nesia, powdered chalk, or with any of the cleansing stuffs that are scattered upon white goods to take out the stains. There is so much o be worn this sum- mer in the way of frills and small fixings that the woman who is going to step with i | Gown in PALE OLVE he preserva- fashion's march must study tion of her style, or she will surely wm‘\' dowdy, just when she would like to look smart. For it is to be the fixings this season without which determine the style and them one will look so severely old-fas ioned that one might as well wear a Quaker’s cap and gown as far as any at- tempt at style is conc erned. And, speaking of the Quake there is one part of the garb W be copied, and that is t here again there is a departur real, for the neckerchief Iis sprigged lawn, elaborately trimmed with lace, with open stitching and lace In stripes and with a deal of fagotting be- tween the rows of lace. But when compléted it i cast about the shoulders as plainly as possible and caught low upon the bust with a tissue rose, while the ends hang in becoming stoles far below the waist. Again they merely extend waistward where they are finished squarely with lace. The Cotton Stuffs. Do not despise the new cotton stuffs which are in the shop windows and which are known under various names. There are French prints and batistes of very delicate structure, challie lawns and mulls; and so many others that are just appearing under new names that one hesitatgs, bewildered befors the list of terms. But there 1s one fact apparent, and that AN/EE FPLAITED VEILING WITN DRAFED. is that the fabrics are of wondrous pret- tiness and that they are suitable for any kind of “best” wear, no matter what that best may be. A black cotton print, very sheer, and showing an f{rregular figure of blue and green, arranged something llke a conven- tional rose, but without a sharp definite outline, was made up as a piazza dress with trimmings of black lawn. The gown was exceedingly pretty and had that mar- velous quality of adaptability which is so desirgble in a summer dress. You could wear it for anything, for piazza, for gar- den party or for church. And, by the way, if you will take your mull church gown and will add one of the new pink choux, and will put on a pink sash and a pink stock; and If you will furl one of those new shirred para- sols over your head, you will be quite ready for a gar¢en party, while your gown will be none the worse for the ex- perience when you wear it next Sunday, shorn of its added glory. ¥ Ths new chou, by the way, is made of tissue roses; suppose three flat roses of tissue and chiffon, all pink and bunched in a little group. From the roses there hang down fifteen little ends of pink rib. bon, half an inch wide, of satin, and ex- actly matching the roses. The ends ara from three to six inches g and there is a little knot in the end of each This is worn upon the gown, | the m 2 jaunti In the summer dress, and in the dre of ring, don’t neglect the chou. I good influence is felt upon the light clot gowns now a-blossom In the streets, a upon the black ones it is positively glori- fying. You can experiment in the mak- ing, but do not try to make an up-to-date rosette or chou out of old ribbon. It is a feat that cannot be accomplished by the hand of woman, no matter how deft she mav be. It may be good news to those who are dressing in black and who do not find black becoming to know that in London they are wearing the black band upon the sleeve. This is true not only of the wi ter gown and of the spring coat, but tru also of the spring cloth dress and the summer gown. Rather odd it looks to ses the band of black cloth upon the left arm of the gown of blus or gray, but the English are wearing it, so it must be all right. KBllck and pink make & nice combina- tion for a calling gown, and black an white go quietly and well for ml-\ Brown, gray and deep blue are for travel- ing. Queen Alexandra is getting some pretty things for the London season, which be- gins in June. Her Majesty will wear gray, is a sensible shade for & woman of 6; and when she wears blue or red or any of the brilllant colors, she will not place them next te her face. She i3 mar- velously clever in the matter of dress, is England’s Qteen, and much of her beauty is doubtless attributable te the ract that she knows so well how to set off her face. The color, abroad and in this country, will be blue, for one turns to it after an experience with other shades. Blue will be the color of midsummer, and for mid- summer evenings the shade wil be a vink. Thers is a new rose, the sunset, and this rose, which is a yellowish pin has been imitated in lawns. Either yel- low or pink ldoks well with this hue. Muslin Neck Ruffles. The muslin collar is taking its place in summer dress, not the flat, wide collar which is worn upon the shirt walst suits, but the flufty, flappy collar of silk mu lin, trimmed with chiffon shirrings and decorated with knots of ribbon, frillings of satin, narrow fringes and what not, for its adornment. The foundation for these ruffles is al- ways a collar of chiffon which s very deep, coming almost to the shoulders and cut in circular fashion. It is long in the back ard there are broad stole ends. Over the chiffon foundation there Iis placed a series of chiffon ruffies and ruf- fles of silk. ~nd In between these thers are very narrow bands of black velvet no wider than a straw, and each smiae of the band of black velvet there may be a fringe or the tiniest of ruchings. The whole makes a very nice ornament for the neck. The shops declare that they cannot keep these fluffy, flappy neck trimmings In stock, go great is the demand and so rapid the sale. No.sooner do they arrive than they go out, and the latest cry is for the collarette, all of white.