The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 21, 1902, Page 15

IINTS R ———— For Such Occasions & Woman May Be Justified in Using Artificial Aids to Beauty—The Proper Mode of Applying Rouge and Pow- der—Nature Employs Three Score Different Tints of Rose to Color the Complexion, 3 3 pryright, 1902, by the 8. 8. McClure Co.) OTHING is more to be deplored than any sttempt to “make up.” But it is sometimes necessary to resort to artificial devices for emateur theatricals, a fancy dress rty or & bal poudre. For these rare oc- ns cosmetics may be used in such a way as to be entirely harmless. The pro- cess calls for the greatest delicacy and @eliberation in order to have satisfactory results. That shrine of mystic contemplation, dressing table, must be supplied with v the very best materials, which per- haps goes without saying. There must be jars of grease paint and cold cream, boxes of rouge and powder, es of cologne, rose water and glycer- a little frying pan and & hare's foot, , & lamb’s wool sole. the face with warm or, After washing weter Bezuty dips the tips of two dainty ers in the jar of white grease paint or m and then rubs it in thorough- r cheeks, nose, brow and then powders her face, and o e e e e e LESSONS 1 Ey Mrs. E, P. Schell. NE of the great difficulties many of our w players experience on the subject of ering play at second hand occurs as much from thought- lessness as from imperfect knowl- of the law of card proba- A few general rules for their guidance, supplemented by a brief but eareful consideration of each particu- lar case it is presented, should divest the subject of much of its apparent @iffi- culty for a whist player of average intel- ligence, The rules for covering in plain suits apply in general to trumps, consist- ently with the comsideration that the lat- ter suit cannot be ruffed Honors once guarded by trumps stand a better chance of making by being put in second hand on the first trick, but the play of them under such conditions is apt te reveal the weak- ness of the hand. The second hand cover- g in trumps may be more backward than in plain suits, for the reason that it tempts the leader in holding back his t s, a desire to retain the com- th a weak holding, however, d should generally cover. If s from strength the majority of s are likely to® be to his right, save one to his partner's weakness, he frus- The matter to be de- en a queen, jack or ten is led t and vou hold one or more ds of the suit, is whether a long suit has been opened. This will mple enough when you hold any card nd which the leader should ypening regular. When the pparently from a regular ard combination it is deemed right cover an honor led with the ace, ough on & jack, led, when second hand 1ds not more than two guards with his , the best practice is to pass the first k, €0 that the nature of the lead may ascertained. If the lead be irregular, the partner is given the opportunity to win the first trick with the queen; your ace will cap- ture the gecond, and the king in the third hand is postponed until the next round, when it may be trumped or die for lack of re-entry. If the jack holds the trick its lead is thereby proclaimed regular and from = suit of at least five cards, so that you must play the ace on the next round Under the penalty of losing it if longer deferred. When en opponent develops such & powerful suit as one of five or more cards headed by the king, queen, ack, the situation is full of danger, should his partner by chance have a strong trump holding, and the suit be- come cleared. The only other regular opening where second hand is concerned with the ques- tion of covering or mot is that of gueen or ten, as the case may be, be in your ow make his ing is LP ROVGE FOR THE CUPU® BOW, S R R RRRRRRR THE SCIENTIEIC after that applies a little of the rouge to the cheeks. The hare’s foot used to be in requisition for giving the final polishing touches, which impart the soft, natural appear- from long suits headed by queen, jack and ten, when second hand holds the king with one or more guards. Here the most absolute rule may be safely laid down— never cover; even with king and one small play low on any lead known or suspected to be from this combination. A moment's thought will satisfy any intelligent player that this is a sound rule. If the ace Is with partner the play can make no dif- ference either way except in so far as the question of re-entry may affect it, or, unless the ace be alome, when of course a trick Is saved by not covering. But it is when the ace is with your op- ponent on your left, and it must alw be assumed in considering any covering play that the cards be in the unfavora- ble position, you have the announcement of the leader that he holds the next two cards in sequence with that led, so you cannot hope to promote any card in your partner’s hand, which at once removes the only excuse which any covering play, except with perfect or imperfect four- chette, has. If you will assume the usual distribution of the cards when you hold the king second in hand and the queen or ten is led, and follow out the possibilities that may result both from playing it and not playing it, your duty becomes quite clear. Supposing the ace to be with the opponent on your left, if the king be played to the first round, the suit is immediately established, and nothing but superior trump strength between yourself and partner can prevent it from being brought in. Suppose, on the other hand, that the king be not played; that having two guards, its fall cannot be compelled until the third round of the suit. Then the ace must also have two guards to stay off long enough to catch the king, and even when this happens, though the suit will then be established in the opener’s hand, he must then hold a card of re-entry In another suit if he would bring in what re- mains of it. Even when the king has the nine and two other guards with it, which is some- times counted a sort of imperfect fou.- chette, the king ought not to be played if the lead can be read as regular, though here the lead is open to susplcions of ir- regularity almost amounting to certainty. 1f the lead be regular the ace is sure to come down on either the second or third round; indeed, it is quite apt to fall on the first, which would insure you the sec- ond and fourth tricks in the suit. A trophy deal, where tricks were lost at both tables: NORTH. —A, K, J, 10,88 CHOA K82 for Ay CoA’Q'109, 8, 2. DK, Q3,852 D-AI,4 SOUTH. 8.9, 65, 4,3 2 H-1,7 6, 3 GAME ance to the complexion; but the latest de- vice, which gives better results, is the tiny lamb’s wool sole of a baby's slipper. Let the color be put on with the iight, deft touch of a fairy painting a rose. Re~ e e s ! ] OF WHIST C.—J, 6,5, 4 I Nine of hearts trumps, East to lead. TABLE NO. L Tks. N. 8. W 1. *9h 3h 4n 2. As 3s s 3 Qh *Kh §h 5h 4 *Ah Th 3¢ b. Ad *10h 2d 6. e 4s Qs T 10c 2s Tc 8. % N 6s bd 9, 8¢ *95 84 * *Ac [ od twe 4c Kd 10d [ *Jd 7d 4d Je *Qd North and South, 7; East and West, 6. st's opening is rather rash. His s not establisned and he has but a single re-entry outside of it, and devoid of spades The prac- tice of “trusting partner ! .. une suit” is a cangerous one. With si. 0 u hand East slould expect a similar d.siribution else- where. T'rick 3—Fast might have taken a round of *his sult here before continuing the trump lead. His partner may be giad to ruff, Trick 5—Still East declines to open bis tenace suit, thereby losing two tricks. WLy he should give up his re-entry and play to an uncertain suit in his partner's hand in preference is difficult to under- stand. Trick 9—South loses a trick by one of those careless plays which make average players wonder. Both adversaries have renounced on three spade tricks, so that South can exactly read his partner's hold- ing and should have unblocked. TABLE NO. 2. Tk. N. E. B. w. 1 Ke *Ac ¢ ‘0 3¢ 2. *h 2h sh 4n 3. Qh *Ah Th 6h 4. *Jh Qc Be Te 5. As *sh 33 78 6 3d *Kh 6h bd 7. 6d 10¢ *Jo 2d 8. *Ks 4d 2s Qs 9. *Js 2¢ 9s e 84 10. *10s gc 4s 8d 11. *8s 10d [ Ja 12. *6s 9c [ Kd 13 7d Ad *10h Qd North and South, 9; East and West, 4. Tricks 2 and 3—East's looks like the logical opening and continuation. Trick 8—North piays the adversaries’ game, hoping to kill the king in East's hand. If he had opened his strong suit bhe would have furthered his own case considerably, Trick 4—With the clubs unestablished, as far as he knows, East is wise In adopt- ing conservative tactics. Trick ¢—East had better have gone with the clubs or low dlamonds her. keeping the trump to top the spad:s West cannot possibly make the spad-. queen, and would give his partner more information by discarding it. THY SUNDAY OALt. ! member, in using rouge, that no one biushes in a Tound spot. Shape the pink a little to your cheeks, and if your face is very full make it longer than round. I cheeks are thin and sunken the little | flush of color must be placed farther them ok fuller. A < .art face may be lengthered by brinsing the color down toward the neck. If che eyes are not prominent a tiny bit of rouge over them is becoming. Thers must also be & suggestion of rouge on the ear lobes and on the chin; just the {aintest touch possible ghould be put in the cleft under the nose, and a littly siug of the nostrils will give a spirited Yon must be very particular about your movih If it 18 too wide, just draw the i ip down tight and put plenty of gresse paint on the corners. You will probably get a lot in your mouth, but you must not mind a little thing like that tack than if they were plump; this makes’ ‘With lip rouge trace a cupid’s bow, small in the middle of the upper lip, and a little wider in the middle of the under lip. If the lips are too thin, color a little be- yond them, but be sure to keep an even outline.. Be careful, to avold smears 8t the corners, which have an abominable appegrance. Fof eyebrows and eyelashes some grease paint and lampblack are mixed in a little tin frylng pan and then skill- fully applied with a tiny brush or the tip of the finger. There are other ways of darkening eyebrows and eyelashes. One home-made preparation is to burn & cork until it crumbles to powder; put it in & saucer and when you have rubbed it quite smooth drop a little glycerin on it and stir until it becomes liquefied, about the consisience of mucilage. Apply with a very fi.e camel-hair brush. Or with an eyebrow pencil of black, soft paint one may lightly and daintily touch the arch of the delicate brows, emphasizing their 15 ‘e PiNAL. TOUCH WI™ YO8 POWDER.~ PURe distinctness fust a degreo. Blondes would use & brown pencil. in using eyebrow pencils the shadows must be carefully modeled with the fin- gers into the pores. The least suggestion of the grease paint and lampblack is applied with the tip of the little finger just below the lower lashes. This is a most delicate and fine operation, requiring infinite tact and art- istic skill Here again there may 3 home-made, in~ expensive substitute. This is to burn a bit of tissue paper and apply the ashes with the greatest cara just below the lower lashes. With a blue pencil make a fine horizon- tal linc at the angle of the eyes. At close inspection it resembles a tiny, blue vein. At a little distance it s indistinguish- able and serves only to lengthen the eye to almond outlines, and 1 n¢ Its brilliancy additional luster. If the eyes are very far apart the least little soupcon of rouge between them will improve their appearance. It arms and neck, as well as face, are to be made up, sponge them with per- fumed toilet water—using cologne or some aromatic foilet water. When thoroughly * dried, bathe them with a lotion composed of equal parts of glycerin and. rose wa- ter. While this is still damp a coating of powder is applied and left on until the last moment. If it is then rubbed in thoroughly, but gently, the skin will seem beautifully white, and all traces of powder will dis- appear. Liquid cream may be made for the neck, arms and hands by dissolving a box of face powder in abdut four ounces of rose water. After shaking the bottle well, wet a fine sponge with the cream and rub the neck, arms and hands with it. To prevent it having a streaky look, it should be rubbed in with the palms of the hands and then a little dry powder put on. If one does not care to use rouge, there is 2 rose face powder, which is made by combining well-sifted rice starch with enough rose pink powder to color it and adding a few drops each of attar of roses and santal. Or if one prefers a home made rouge, & famous one, called bloom of roses, is made with half an ounce of strong, liquid ammonia, quarter of an ounce purest carmine, one pint rose water and half an ounce of triple spirit of rose. Pour the ammonia on the carmine and let it re- main four days, stirring occasfonally, then add the rose water and spirit, and after letting it stand for & week decant, and you have the “bloom of roses.” Powder may also be home made. A powder is made of white starch In the proportion of one pound to two ounces of powdered orris, ten drops of attar of lemon and one dram each of bergamot and cloves. A rose lip salve may be made by maelting together one-quarter ounce each of white ‘wax, spermacet! and alkenet or blood- root. Strain and add enough sweet almond ofl to make & soft paste. Add a few drops of attar of rose. ‘When it comes to removing the ecos- metic, cover your face with cold cream, rubbed on slightly. Let it remain for a Pew moments and then rud off with & soft linen cloth. Wash your face well with hot ‘water and soap, rinsing It off with a dash of cold water. And may your complexion be noge the worse for its brief coating of powder and paint. Perhaps not every one knows that na- ture employs sixty different tints of rose to color the complexion, and than any woman who will take the trouble to g0 te Paris can have her skin matched. The shops where they match your eom~ plexion, for a consideration, are calou- lated to destroy forever man’s faith ia woman’s natural charms. Rising in imposing tlers, are long rows of bottles, warranted to contain lovely complexions, satin skins, rosy Uips, peach~ bloom cheeks and ivory necks. - Piles of tablets and dainty boxes prom~ ise aristocratic biue veins, bewitching dimples, shading evelashes, tinting for the finger nails and alabaster hands. If it is your cheeks you wish to beautify you buy a pot of coloring matter on & disk of porcelain, and a small tool cover- ed with white cotton. The pot or rouge does not cost so very much, but what does come high Is the preliminary business of having a tint of pink matched to your skin. Nature rarely colors two persons alike; the true pink glowing in the cheeks ot one blonde or brunette is not at all the same that glows in the cheeks of that person’s own sister, perhaps. So in that littls shop you sit before & mirror, and a patient attendant—whe must be an artist, in a way—selects, after repeated trials, the color that harmonizes exactly with your particular quality of skin, giint of hair and tone of eyes. There are exactly sixty-five pinks ‘te choose from and when you leave the shop you wear a blush as faint, or as deep, as your type requires—and one so exactly har- monizing that it absolutely resembles what you would have If nature undertook to do the coloring herself. It §» no unusual thing for & vessel plying between Japan and London te carry 1,000,000 fans of all kinds as a single item of its cargo. —_——r——————p In to-day’s issue of The Sunday Call appears the seo- ond installment of “The Gos- pel of Judas Iscariot,” by Aaron Dwight Baldwin—a novel that is proving the sen- sation of two comtinents. This book will be published complete in three issues of The Sunday Call’s Magazine Section — December 14, 21 and 28. BE SURE TO READ IT. IT IS THE NOVEL OF THE HOUR. Our next novel will be #When XKnighthood Was in Flower,” by Charles Major, illustrated by photographs of scenes in Julia Marlowe’'s play of the same name. —_—h