The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 21, 1902, Page 10

TI.E SUNDAY CALL Christmas bride has a contract her hands. e must provide herself with a trousseau which is not only fash- at the present time, but t remain in style all the year. requires tact, some money, a which mu great deal of patience and a knowledge cf the fashions and foibles that are to come She must understand how the skirte of epring are to be cut. And she must have an all-intuitive, half-prophetic sense of what will be worn In the coming sleeve. As to her waists they must hold their es for the mext six months at least, 'S mus ot go out the rest of the gown. ristmas briGes who are so n this world’'s goods that ar. This sort which will last Easter she will again to purchase new garments. When summer time comes she will have &n entirely new outfit But this variety of bride s scarce. Much more numerous and more thoroughly in our midst is the bride who buys her trousscau to last two years at least and who has little or no idea of replenishing even to the extent of a shoestring under sty and her collars and ¢ of date bef There are ( richly gifted bride, the bride of mod- erate means, is buying ber entire trous- less And what to that confronts her. to have one silk dress. not select one of the very f taffeta? Not a noveity ving or champagne or crushed rose, but a standard. There is ultremarine blue, whick holds its own and navy biue, which lasts forever. e blue in glazed taf- h'a many gored skirt a circular finish around the foot and strapped with bands of braid at the top, will last a very long time. A HINT FROM MISS NEILSON. Miss Neflson, who is having the most elegant gowns of the year, is the owner of one of these little navy blue walking or traveling & he flounce is strengthened with silk put on underneath. An y modistes strengthen the silk flounce with a lining of very fine navy blue mus! It makes the flounce wear so much longer. The bride will want a waist laid in box plaits, two plaits each side of the front. Down the middle of the front she will want a band of stitched silk, trimmed with little mock gem buttons, and for a voke she will want a shaped plece of silk. One of Miss Neilson's yokes is shaped in such = fashion that there are deep s all along the bust and ail along back. These points are three inches and are trimmed with little but- tons. Miss Nellson's sleeve is one that might be c It is the elbow it suddenly emerges into the new pumpkin shaped sleeve with the large end of the pumpkin coming at the wrist. 3 in turn, is finished with a cuff and ff is trimmed with little buttons. leeve is trimmed in the samie way ed by a bride of less pretensions. " her tight to the elbow, but below, with points overlapping and with little buttons. The bride must have a hat with this sult and for this she can select nothing better than a turban with a border of fur, which can be in chinchilla. Later she can take off the fur. Perhaps she will prefer the felt hat in gray; and, then, she can trim it very simply with bunches of blue and purple grapes. There will be green leaves with the grapes and the hat can be worn with a green gown, a gray one and a blue. This makes a sort of general utility hat, which the bride will appreciate later on, when she begins to go out a great deal, as brides do in their first season. THE BRIDE'S CLOAKS. The bride must have a long cloak and from this there 1s no appeal. Her fancy will run toward the white Monte Cari.o coats, which are very feiching. And, it she cares to invest in such a cloak, she can do so without feeling that she has begun upon a course that Wwill prove to be ruinously extravagant. A certamn cleaning nrm of Gotham ad- vertises that white cloth coats can be cleaned or dyed there to look like new. And the brice after she has tired of her white cioak, can take it and have it dyed & beautiful lusirous black, when it will be new again. The vest long cloaks are trimmed with lace, that is ine dressiest cioaks. And the bride can take her three-quarter white broadcloth and trim it with four medal- Lions o1 lace. Let her put them on, two at eacn sice, near the hem of the cloak. Then sue Wil want a deep Jace co.ar, one that comes almost to the beit line in froni; and unaer this lace coilar she must have a shouicer cape, which 1alls to ine elbow and waich comes down nearly to the beit in the front and in the back. This can be Very eiavorately borderea with su- vered braid with an eage of biack velvet. In a beautifui trousscau for a bride of Christmas, there is a three-quarter broad- cloth cicas 1u a snade of cioudlike gray. The trimming is white lace with biack vel- vet buttons und there 1s a very elaporale series of shou.der capes with the upper- most cape of white lace. The sieeves, wuicn grow gradually wider toward the Land, Nually end in a deep slashing to reveal sume handsome lace, which falls over the hand. There are groups of black velvet buttons in bunches of tiree each and this heips to make the cloak extremely elaborate. 1n the cioax line the bride should have, besides the thrce-quarter cloak, one that is to the hips, in Kimono sty.e, scraight al the way around and made of One of these cloaks, or coats, in black moire, is gecldedly elegant. Its coar must be a sailor made of tne moire and trimmed with lace inserdon in ngures, with turcuoise biue saun under tue ig- ures. In the ceniwr of each lace fgure there must be a vriliant litle button 1 milky stone. THE ETON WILL BE IN STYLE. The Eton is a perfectly safe garment for the bride, for it will no? go vut of style. She can indulge in as many of these little coats as her trousseau commodate, and she can feel perfectly safe in adding to them as convenient. The Bton positively will not go out. Never an extreme of style, it is never out of date. Besides the Eton there is the Russian blouse, which is now enjoying a wonderful rage. This blouse comes In what is cailed the peasant shape. It is box plaited front and back and hangs straight. But it Is not so very becoming this way. The blouse for one who wants a sult that will hold its style is the blouse made CroAm \wiITH AT TAWMENT AND TRimmrnees oF LRCE o of zibeline or camel's hair or heavy serge. 1t is hooked down the front in such a way that it pouches at the belt and the pouch is ordinarily stifferied to make it still more of a pouch. It is very snug in the back and it comes down to the belt line in very determined fashion, actually fitting the walst sharp- ly. The only deviation from the perfect fit is in the blouse part, right in the mid- dle of the front. The bride can go In for fur coats If she 80 please, and the newest of these are made up of numierous littie skins pieced together in reckless disregard of the life of the animal and the price of the gar- ment. Squirrels are used by the wholesale, and every effort is made to show the overlapping of the skins. Then there is the ever present and always serviceable sealskin and the handsome coat of Per- slan lamb, baby lamb and all the varie- ties of lambkind. b But the bride cannot do all of this on $2%, which is, after all, a mere bagatelle, when ore considers the price of the sca- son’s clothes, The bride with $200 to spend can buy no laces, no furs, no jeweled trimmings and very little brocade. HOW T0 SPEND §20). What she can buy is taifeta, moire, corded silk, lad es’ cloth, cashmere, hairy cloth, choviot, Irish whtings and the large v of noveity siuffs. In the cloakings she has aizo a large family of om which to sele t, so that she , indeed, a ecritical br.de if sne can- not make both ends mcet on her allow- ance. In the laccs —for this is certainly a lace get the imitation laces, which are e as good from a dress standpoint as the real. They do not wear as long and they do not sell for as much, but the bride can wear them several sea- sons and after that she can trust to luck for more. The bride wiil want one serviceable gOWN,, and for wintcr and spring there are the snewflake goods, which make up 80 beautifully into marketing dies: The bride can wear this drcss Intermin- ably, and if she will make it up pedes- trian length, with a Norfolk jacket, belt- €d, and with the belt supplied with a big button, she will find that she has a suit that will wear her well winter aftir win- ter. Should the snowflakes go out she can have the whole dyed black for $ or 36, The bride will want one handsome even- ing or reception gown, and for this there arc many expedients. A Washington bride, whose name must not be mentioned, found on figuring up the cost that she could have only one even- ing dress. She was adviscd to choose a white satin. Her adviser, who was a woman with wide experience in dress, de- clared that it would keep clean the long- est and look the most universally beauti- ful, ‘The Washington bride made this gown with a many gored skirt, beautifully fit- ted, with a deep flounce around the bot- tom. This was put on, not in flounce fashion, but applied almost plain, like the Dew French shaped flounce. The walist was cut on the shirt waist order, plain, low In the neck, sleeveless and shirred meck ruffie and by putting on new flowers and new jeweiry she could change he: @ress each night in the week, and it is & fact that she intends to go tnrough the coming Washington season with this white gown, praying meanwhile for an overdress of figured cretonne to make the BOWNn new again. The bride will find that the old fash- foned wedding drcss has gone out. Heir- lcoms are all very well, but the bride may be allowed to let poste take care of itself in the matter of wedding gowns. It wise, she wiil select something which can be taken apart immediately and made over into an evening dress. One of the brides of this Christmas is the cwner of an aunt who has a big white cashmere shawl. This the bride is to have draped across the front of her gown precisely as though it were a princess. The whole front will lie right from her chin down to her hips, and it 1 be very tight at the waist line. The lower edge is trimmed with fringe and the bride will thus have a very handsome skirt, which looks very much like a semi- skirt. The wise bride will not get married in a blouse front. It makes her look too chunky and, as she walks up the church aisle, she wants to look ethereal, if ever. Let her seek the willowy effects and leave the blouses to miore practical occasions. There I8 a new wrinkle in the wedding vell, a wrinkle that will be highly appre- along the voke or bust line. A CLEVER BRIDE'S TRICK. Another walst was added and this haa tleeves, while the neck was cut very low and finished with a flat lace insertion with a little silver applique upon the in- sertion. There was an_overdress of pale blue chiffon with_ a little silver embroldery, which could be slipped on over the other to make a new gown. And there was an- other which was of white, tulle and which ‘wus a mass of little rufiles, each one war. ranted to tear at the slightest provoca- icn, but looking very soft and ethereal Just the same. The bride found that by changing the She Can Get Some Ideas From the Completed Trous- seau of Kathleen Neilson and From a Study of the Advance Fashions of Paris and New York, and Also From Some of the Handsome Dresses Which Are Being Made for Christmas and New | Year Occasions. H r the Domestic Woman W Has Been a Bride and for ,the Woman Who Likes to Dress Well, Bride or No Bride. > who W cannot. veil of tulle of trimm it w qued u d I the lace much fir semehow mukes like a very I UNDER THE GASLIGHT S It Is amazi t little artistic light or in chureh, the real lace the dres: sentimer and, surely, on thus she may be allowed a choice of personal decoratior The bride of shoes, for i can be married in sir all occasions, nkful EL pe slippers wi piace a pin or a X and then lay the rosette aside to be put upon or upon that one. The wise e a dozen from which s rdom. Un- der each rc p:n, by which t to the slipper. FOR ANY NICE WOMAN. Women of all persuasions, otherwise, are embroidering and alwa a me is the most re flake embroidery sists of flakes s ing The flakes, &b easily embroi. The bride’s modest purs 1 from stes. It that of t w A should include a t ling dr ch can also be worn for calling, si s. of sill or satin, peau or a; a trot- ting suit which 1s worn for pedestrians, shopping - arketing; an evening dress; three sts and a plain black cloth skirt to w Every w simple garments and she who possess them is surely in an embarrassed Eituation very often. As to the selection of her shirt waists the bride can have the cunning of a lady serpent. She ca ct a very thin flan- nel that will we the year around except in midst n select the moire waist wh er and makes a: very excelle t to wear under a bolero after will choose the materials have no we out to them and will cl o the staple shades The bride, or the domestic Wwoman, should have a white silk flannel or a white cashmere shirt waist; she should have a blue one uld have a black bril- Mantine made with ks; and she should have one nice t waist for afternoons inform s when the decollete s out of o Such a deal de the fit of the u amazed to obs: there is betweex * when worn aver of the sa fitted under HER NICE UNDERCLOTHES hould be so arranged that it squeezes the abdom making the straight front, while n the bust and in-*t suit greatly a to make her gow the silk petticoat wk at all, it is the sions. Those who do ne silk petticoat every dg ruffle to a silk top, in v petticoat will wear a time than if the ruffle There are many the woman who is in-little act. Onme of the stan ments is neatness, for if the ¢ kept neat its life will be greatl and you can do two or much with it. The simple matter of clea grease spot or sew as they appear, an weak spots, has saved ma & prematu to the r The isian mc cleverly z all the new Before they are put on they taffeta under the lac In this manner th tions under the a gives out soones course with other fabric an sh X 1 dinn this season upom fothes. You would be wide difference pearance of a gown nderclothing, and properly are very e walsts, D a bit of nake it fast, ) por~ walst ame to make the waist last a at deal longer. ) The bride s! on the flat may be wo looks gothic matter of hei Judicious ar Not only for t good, but for every w and especially for all wo. look very nice this and tb ould have 2 ariety. I 11 her hats buflt r the tall hat INGAKNET wWITH WHITE DoTy Fok HcaARNET HOvIE DFESS.