The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 17, 1901, Page 5

Do iid on plain with- iney. treatment, are employed in enteries, cordings kinds, nitings. re very handsome vy grain which is se puitings make daptable to form, 1ee ‘perfectly and ‘There is so little vrinkle -that they . even &iter bad s.a handsome au- these days. It is . very heavy and t resembles a hop- nely heavy quality est the coldest of the Russian lines back at the belf aggy in the front. t at the back, is re is none of the b dreaded about W v/iriaAn FrovsE WITH oVT The entire blouse is laid in the tiniest of tucks, which reach up and down the sleeves from shoulder to thumb, and up and down the walist in the same way. The trimming consists of narrow bands of black satin, laid upon the waist in big curves, with a piping of white satin oc- curring in the middle of each black satin band. The collar, which is a turnover, is trimmed with the satin band, with white piping in the middle, The cuffs are turn- overs, trimmied in the same \Vafi’. About cuffs one cannot say ehough, for they have assumed with a jgmp an im- portant place in the -season’'s gowning. The Russian cuff, with its tight-fitting band, is worn with street gowns and house gowns as well, This sort of cuff allows for a little bag at the back of the wrist, but is close fitting to the hand and very neat., It is made of Persian em- broidery or is seen in the new striped vels vels or in the velvet dotted silks, and is effective in any material, The New Cuffs, Then there is the cuff mno wider than our finger, of velvet, bringing the sleeve Yn sharply, so that it makes a very full bag. This cuff is used with the sleeve that 15 very baggy below the elbow and cut off far above the wrist. Most of the el- bow sleeves are finished in this way, just a narrcw band ‘'of black velvet, The elbow sleeve with {ts narrow cuff is 80 seldom becoming that It can never be a popular favorite The embroidered cuff is one of the very new freaks of fashion. The 'sleeve rhich is finished without any cuff at all, js em=- broidéred for a depth of about six inches. In the embroidery little atterapt is made at a definite pattern. Pink roses “with green leaves embroidered the wrist of a sleeve that was made of tan colored cloth, The gown, which was a reception dress, had the same.embroidery upon the yoke. It was repeated around the fool. but. in a much more ambitious way. the embroid- ery reaching up on the skirt so as to be very deep at the sides and shallow in the middle of the front and «n the middle ot the back. A cornstalk gown was one of the hand- somest dresses seen at an afternoon tea. It- was worn by a guest of Mrs. Charles Dana Gibson. The skirt was a very pale green and trimming it around the foot were husks of corn, looking as though just pulled off the ear. IBEven the corn silk was visible in ‘pale yellow and light green falling from under the hLusks. . Around the foot of .the gown there was a band of green velvet in a little deeper shade. Embroidered Gowns. Embroildery appears to an alarming ex- tent upon the fall gowns, when one con- giders the work that must be performed and the. stitches taken to sécure it. Qowns in white cloth are abundantly em- broidered in colors, for dressy gowns such as are to be worn to house wed- dings and recentions. In the tans and pale .colors of all kinds ‘there is seen the same beautiful embroidery. But it is upon black gowns that em- broidery appears to the best advantage. Great empire wreaths in all colors, show- ing leaves and flowers and a ribbon, inter- twined, are seen upon biack skirts and in the center of the wreath is a smaller one carried out in the same way. These wreaths are embroidered around the foot of a gown and half way up the skirt, then comes a pointed design in embroidery to finish the trimming. b, It takes time to embroider a gown like this, and the couturieres of Paris have half a dozen girls all at work upon a sin- gle skirt, if it is to be completed within a certain time. The skirt is first made up, and is then arranged over a chair, so that it falls all around it. The girls seat themselves in a circle. and, taking the skirt upon their knees. proceed to embroi- N ’ o\tul'i \ \ GHE)’J‘AN’YHEMVM Bigk deér the design upon it. In this manner a much better regult is obtained than if the material were embroidered and the skirt pul together afterward. The embroidered bolero, far from being a thing of the past, is seen with theése skirts. It has the short sleeve, with ‘an embroidered rufile, the sleeves cut off at the elbow. The bolero is embroidered around the e, and is worn over a little’ silk shirt” waist or a delicate waist of chiffon and lace, . A wide band of silk, folded closely and finished with a rosette, is worn as a belt, and, to the back of this belt there are fastened wide tahs, looking much like em- broidered postilions, a&, indeed, they are, in the accepted use of the term, “ For Day Receptions. A light cloth gown was trimmed with embroidery put on in sharp pointed de- sign., Great embroidered points zigzagged around the skirt. There were four rows of this kind of embroidery, one above the other, coming nearly to the belt. Little bunches of lowers in embroidery appeared around the hips. > The French knot design is another kind of trimming that is seen, Tiny French knots trim the collar and the yoke and are used in such a way as to make panels down each side of the vest. The cuffs are trimmed with them. The foot of the skirt has an ombrolderfi in I'rench knota, With these gowns the most elaborate hats are worn. One hat, a great spread- ing thing, was turned up at the side and held in place with two straps of black velvet. Knots of black velvet rested upon the hair. The hat was bound with black velvet and the top was trimmed with feathers. This sharp contrast of black and white is often good in a picture hat, and can be utilized with any gown, for it goes well with everything.