The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 17, 1901, Page 4

WITE woman who easily made hersel! a gown a year ago will find herself compelled to go to a school of dress- ‘making before she can successfully accomplish the same task this year. One short twelvemonth sincé she could have purchased material and put together a skirt, after simple Jlaws, and a waist upen Etill plainer instructions, and have obtained for herself something very nice for little money, A-shirt waist would have done nicely in place of the specialiy fashioned confection. This seasgon she will find 1t all changed, and though she need not throw away her last year's gowns, she will probably fini that they-are nat up to the standard nor such as she weuld care to copy this win- Lter, » All seems to be changed, yet the change has come 'about so gradually and the dif- ference is so subtle that the detalls might escape natice unléss one's eyes were spe- cially directed 1o them, Yet at a glance the new sults are en- tirely different, Skirts are changed very much and bodices are not at all as thiey were, The New Skirt, It is In the skirt, one might declare, that the grealest alteration has been made, In the very new skirts there are ever so many gores, or if not gored there are stitchings to make it look as thouga it were finished In that way, One af the prettiest of all skirts has the appearance of having twelve gores, each one stitched and lapped over the one next to it, Really the effect. was accomplished by tucka turned under and stitched flat, Then there is the matter of fullness. Who ever gaw skirts as tight as they are this season? Imagine a skirt so snug that you positively cannot wear a petticoat un- derneath it, and must, perforce, take t? leg petticoats, and you have new style of skirt. . And what are they doing, those fashion- able women who live to exploit the styles? They.-are fikting their skirts so tightly around the hips that there is posi- tively no room for ‘a petticoat beneath, and are wearing the garter petticoat. It is not a question of a fitted petticoat or a .shirreds one, but of no petticoat at all, and Dame Fashion has sighed and said that there shall be none at all. The leg petticoat, or the, garter petti- coat, 18 just a little flounce sewed to each garter, so that it just escapes. the ground. It can be very handsome, for as it never touches the street it does not become worn or torn, Its fdturepopularity hangs in the balance, however, for without her petticoat woman does not fee] as though she were fulfilling the daintily feminine element, and ‘it 18 likely ‘that the garter the petticoat, not being sufficiently feminine,” will disappears / But to the fitted .skirt—since -this is a dressmaking talk—it can be asserted that’ it cannot be too tightly fitted to the hips for style, There should not be a wrinkle, or a particle of fullness, not a fold, not a plait, notfhing but an actual’ velvety smoothness. . . From the waist downward the skirt con- tinues to cling and around the knees it Is actually, in many cases, smaller than. it is at the hips. Other skirts are straight from the waist down, while a few slope outward, byt so verylittle that the slope {8 not perceptible to the naked eye, Home Dressmaking, In home dressmaking the trouble comes with the flare. There are two ways of making the new skirt, or rather two kinds of new skirts from which to ehoose. One is a skirt that flares gradually to the street, all the way down, taking on a de- cided flare at the knees, so as to show a very wide foot flare. This is called the Funnel skirt, for it'broadens gradually, The other skirt is perfectly straight up the knees' tliey were released and the skirt flared. Narrow panels of dark red cloth were stitched and applied to the skirt from the place where the flare began to the hem. These strips were edged with pale piuk satin: I'he waist was with the fulln waist line in little tuc of the cloth showed ¢ order of Pe embroidery in the chrysanthemur and two strips of the embroid tended down the frent of the waist, The vest was in white chiffon with the cholwer and upper part of the yoke made of lace threcugh which narrow dark red velvet ribbons ran. A Such a pretty gown, &ll in many shades of deep red, with hat to match, and, of course, she carried a great red chrysan- themum. The new gowns show the much trimmed waist. Gay embroideries deco- rate vests, collars and form lapels. Bril- liant fronts are set in dark waists and gay cuffs enliven the most somber ma- terials. 1 The entire winter suit—to be worn un- der a coat—has returned. Skirt- and waist blouse, the a full Russian confined around A sailor e« and down the front and very tight, having -are made up out of the same material the appearance of a tie back. Indeed, there are strings attached underneath to tie. it back, so it is actually a tie-back skirt. The front and sides hang perfect- ly. straight, but at the back there is a double box plait, inverted, which is made so that it does not flare until the foot of the skirt is reached, when it takes a series of pretty folds, ending in a little train, "The home dressmaker can experiment with both of these skirts and see.how she comes out. She will not succeed if she atterapts to curtail the length, for the skirt must be very, very long, and this must be the case not only in the back but in the front, whieh is really of such a }enjgth that you wonder how you will walk n it The skirt lift is an important thing to learn, for it is so necessary a part of one's appearance in the street. The skirt, if .properly raised in the middle of the back, will lift the front also so that it will well escape the ground, This back lift is the proper thing for the funnel or gradu- ally sloping skirt, The straight skirt with little traln and box plaited back requires the side lift, The train is lifted in one hand and pulled around toward the side so as to twist It around the figure, thus lifting it. ' Practice and a pier glass make perfect in lifting the train. Mrs, West’s Gown, A gown worn by Mrs. Cornwallls West, the younger, illustrated nicely the pretty way in which a tight skirt can be treat- ed. Lady Churchill, as Mrs, West is still called, wore on this occasion & dress which might have been called a chrysan- themum gown. It was in a deep shade of red, looking very much like the heart of the latest prize flower. ¥From the hips downward the skirt was tucked, with the tucks turned wunderneath. Arocund and worn either with a fur jacket or one of cloth® or with the long coat,” but the specially noticeable feature is the complete suit, instead of the skirt and walst. These suits are made very warm and can be worn all winter with the chamois jacket or the padded lining or the warm little golf jacket with its silk sleeves, easy to slip on. Suits for Winter, The Ogden Mills twins are wearing very pretty cloth suits for first winter wear, One gown, in blue, is trimmed with white, the skirt and waist showing the same treatment, which is that of scal- loped -bands edged with white satin, A very wide curved band of cloth trimmed the skirt of the dark blugcgown about a foot above the hem, It was cut in big scallops, the top finished rather sharply. A piping of white satin appeared at the top and the bottom of the bands. The. waist had bands curving around it, each band edged with white satin, The collar was a turnover, bordered with the same little band. Black makes up charmingly into winter suits and shows off so well the trimming that is used upon it, A black suit of rough cloth, a species of zibiline, was worn by Mrs. Adolph Ladenburg, New York's champion woman hunter, The skirt was trimmed with a handsomely embroid- ered band, put on in an immense swirling design, while the waist had its sailor col- lar of the same embroidery, with stand- ing collar to match, In the use of stitching and bralding and of narrow trimmings of all kinds, a great difference must be recorded, The simplest plaingst ways of treatment are the most fashionable. Instead of intricate windings and inter-windings, until all seems lost in & hopelessly impossible maze, making al- most a solid, stiff panel of trimming, the trimming is spread out flat, curved or slightly scalloped, or lal out any attempt at, a.fal The plain methods bralds, ribbons, pa and narrow garniture¥g The Scotch Su The Scotch suitings ar and show a coarse, heav very satisfactory. . Thes up well and are very ad a8 they 'keep their plat stay in the folds nicely. about them that gan W show little or nuf“uul‘. usage, ! Mrs. George Gould has tomobile gown for wear' in a navy blue canvas, very coarse in weave, It sacking, but is of extrem and so thick as to sugss winter wear, The waist is ¢ut ypon | slightly bagging in the | line and a little more bd The walst, except right very snug, so that ther “slouchy’’ look so muclk the blouse.