The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 10, 1901, Page 7

Mg - TR > D . WS . - _— 'y S OME things there are In this worid the potential American dollar can= not buy and which even the influ ence of European royalty is pow- erless to win. Among them uare the priceless sets of jewels belonging to the rajahs of India. Many of these princes of the Edst have sets of gems which represent a value unheard of outi- side the Orfent and beside which the most famous collections of the crowned heads of Europe or of the familles of our Ameri- can milllonaires sink Into insignificance, It is not likely that a white man will ever wear these treasures unless they come to him as the spoils of war, It is against the most sacred traditions of the rajahs to part with their famlily heir- looms. Fabulous prices have been offered them for single jewels or ornaments out of thelr vast supplies. But gold has no power to tempt them where their jewels ure concerned. It was only after great difficulty that Mr., Oliver M. Farrand, a New York jew- eler, succeeded in procuring from abroad the photographs of some of these rajahs wearing their gems. They represent the finexc collections of precious stones in ex- istence. The fortunes of our wealthiest magnates are small. beside those which several of these Eastern nobles wear upon their persons. X The pearls and diamonds belonging to the Rajah of Dholpur rank first among all these costly collections. They form the most valuable sct of jewels in existence. A million dollars was recently offered to the Rajah for the single string of large pearcls shown in the photograph about his neck. The offer was refused. Each of these pearls s said to be absolutely with- out a fiaw, of perfect purity and luster. L i 66 (Continued From Page 2) young eyes that will mercilessly judge her. There are many subjects upon which young anrd old may meet upon common ground and talk with naturalness and enthusinsm-—books, music, art, the play, charming people, authors, artists, lectur- ere, travel, amateur photography, blcy- cling, golf, tennis, botanlzing-—minds and souls have no age, Chaperonage at Dances. When young girls are asked to be guests unaccompanied by an older woman, the hostess assumes the office and responsi- bility of chaperon at house parties, dances, ete. At o ball the chaperon enters the room with her charge at her left and steps slightly In advance of her to greet their hostess. Bhe takes her seat in the row of seats against the wall, and her prote- gee sits in front of her. In Kurope at all large balls the walls of the room are lined with red velvet sofas whereon the chaperons are seated, often on a ralsed daly, with thelr young people upon chalrs at thelr feet. The elder women, dressed with clegance and wearing many jewels, make an effective background for the cos- tumes of their charges, whose youth and freshness are the more emphasized by contrast, The chaperon should dress as unlike the young girls as possible—for her the vel- vets, stiff brocades and tollets suggesting richnegs, even sumptuousness; for them diaphanous draperies and artistic simplie- ity, No language can be too severe, too scathing, to condemn the woman whose attire Is lacking In modesty; but nevor Is it 80 blameworthy as when she (8 In ¢harge of young and Innocent girls, 'he chayeron should endeavor to that hor protegee 18 provided with a parts se a4 MILLIOM N TBL WORLD DOLLARS WAS OFFERIN FOR THF SINGLE STRING OF CARGE FPIARIY 4BOUT THE NECHK Every jewel in the twelve great ropes of pearls hanging down from the neck is worth & small fertune in itself. Those in the four ropes across the left shoulder, though small in eomparison with their companiens, are really of. good size and great value. Diamonds are interspersed with pearls in the Incrustations of the helmet, which is literally covered with gems, It is impossible to even approxi- mate the total value of this wonderful heirloom of the rajahs of Dholpur. It {§ priceless. Far less showy, but scarcely inferfor in’ value, is the family inheritance of the ETIQUETTE”—BY MRS ner for the cotillon, using the advantages of her position, her acquaintance, or the feeling of |m|ebu-dne.~u¥ toward her, for the benefit of her ch¥rge. % Always to be found in the same place, the young girl may go to her between dances, and so be relieved of the dreaded feeling that she is impesed upon a man longer than she is welcome. A young chaperon should not dance while her charge is unprovided with a partner. . Special Qualifications. Many think that a chaperon should be possessed of what they call the ‘soclal talent,”” knowing how to Dbar all ap- proaches toward a girl's acquaintance from the ranks of the undesirable as well as the objectionablcs, and beguiling the eligibles Into an agrecable atmosphere of congenfality and intimacy that ‘steals upon them ere ihey are aware." The first is indubitably an important qualification; the last requires tact, sen- sitiveness and innate good breeding, lest the young subject of her management be compromised in the very least. Soclety requires a certain amount of manipulation and clever handling, it is sald, except by those who are born with- in its penetralia, but one would not “stoop to conquer.”” It I8 quite legitimate, however, and con- sistent with the dignity of the older wo- man as well as the younger that some acauaintancedhips should be averted and others festered, Kspecially at summer hotels eternal vig- flance should not be relaxed, Injudicious plenfes, long walks, with opportunitics for tete-a-tetes, excursions of all kinds, make the responsibility of chaperonage sometimes an onerous one, The “abuse' of the chaperon conveys a “double entente,” With one acceptation of the word we are all familiar, but it has another signification, ) 1v THE WORLD FACH STONE(EMERALST) BEING WORTHE50 000.00 RKRajah of Gwalior. His is a wealth of emeralds. TMhe threc bands of immense stones which, interspersed with numerous smaller ones, form a broad collar over the chest and shoulders are native cut. Nor will their owner consider the sugges- tion that they be re-cut with modern skiil and mecthods. What they might gain in brilliancy by the operation would be more than offset in his mind by what they would lose in size. The value of each of the large stones is about $50,000. The strips of gold embroidery upon the robes of this Indian.prince are set with many emeralds of a smalier size. The epaulets, which hang from the shoulders down over the arms, are incrusted with extraordinarily large stones surroundeg with pearls. . ‘ .The collar—or one might at most cail it cape—worn by the Rajah of Baroda is a mass of diamonds and various precious stones, combined in rich and wonderful + confusion. The color and briliancy of this ornament can better be imagined than described. The lighter stones are set off by borders of the darker emeralds, those forming a a-fringe around the lower. edge being of immense size and value. Scarcely less beautiful is the tassel of pearls which hangs from the left hand side of this Rajah's turban. Each string in this tassel represents a fortune. In each the pearis have been carefully grad- ed as to size and each is tipped with a pompon of silk. The cap of jewels which covers the Rajah’s silk turban is a mass of various gems to match his collar. The edge 1is formed of great diamond pendants, TMive great ropes of pearls, priceless in value, é¢onstitute the chief treasure of the Rajah of Nizam. A single pearl from these might well make its owner an ob- ,O” i ject of envy. Among the pearls, here and there, are strung other gems, the better to display their beauty. After his pearis the Rajah prizes most the nine large dia- monds which hang from his gold coronet. That in the center, particularly, is- of great size and beauty. Particularly odd and effective is the use to which the Rajah of Punnah has put the thousands of pearls gathered by generations of his ancestors. He has used them to embroider his robes of state, Over the shoulders, down the sleeves and around the edges of the robe the pearls have been woven with silk and gold into beautiful and intricate designs. On the turban, from an ornament of gold and pearls, drop four double strings of pearls, each graded in size to form a point at the tips. The base of this orna- ment is formed by an immense diamond surrounded with pearls. The necklace is of pearls and darker gems. Beneath are two bands of small brilliants, fastened together at intervals with large rubies. Eighteen diamonds are set in the buckle which fastens the scarf worn over the ri:ght shoulder. The bracelets are of na- tive cut emeralds and these stones also are set In the gold hilt of the sword. The jewel cape of the Maharajah of Jodhpore consists of three rows of large pearls and emeralds alternated. From every pearl in the last row drops a pear~ shaped emerald, forming a fringe. Out- side of this is worn a double rope of pearls, fastened together here and there with other emeralds. A ruby ornament hangs from this rope. On one side of the turban is a cluster of rubies, emeralds and pearls. On the other is a photograph, of whom it is not known, surrounded by pearls. Seven rows of pearls are twined about the neck. ., BURTON KINGSLAND. A woman who makes the position an excuse for going into gay society for her own amusement or advancement i an unfit person with whom to trust a: young and inexperienced girl, A pleasant manner, magnetic, gracious, is a desirable endowment or acquisition, but self should always be secondary to the interest and pleasure of the young people, There are those, however, who put forth efforts ot attract admiration or attention to themselves, Such chaperon- age Is an injustice to the girl. If a chaperon be not old enough to be the mother of her charge, she should at least have such dignity of character as to suggest maturity, and so leave no doubt of the conventions being satisfied. It is bad form to send several gay girls to a ball with a very young chaperon, perhaps one of their own number who has just been married. Such matronizing is & farce, a burlesque and no real chape- ronage at all, J Upon coaching parties to races, football matches, visits to country clubs, picnics, studio teas; boating parties, or any fes- tivity where merriment and gay spirits may tempt the overstepping of the bounds of strictly good breeding, the matron of the party should be carefully chosen. 1 have seen ehaperons who needed chape- roning more than the young people in their charge, All the obligation is not on the one side, however, A Girl’s Attentions to Her Chaperon. It 18 always an evidence of refined breeding as well as kindness of heart that a girl should show her chaperon at a ball or elsewhere that she is not unmindful of her presence, She should present to her the young men whom she meets, if they are standing near, and it 18 always a compliment to a man to be brought to the mother or chaperon for a special in- troduction. She should reciprocate the in- terest of the chaperon in her pleasures by showing some solicitude for the comfort and enjoyment of that lady, noticing whether or not she has some one to talk with, and with her better opportunities of seeing the room may manage to in- sure that she be more agreeably seated. If she be overlooked at supper, the girl may ask her own partner to provide for her, and if he is a gentleman he will think the better of her for her thought- ful considerateness and perferm the little service with readiness. The chaperon is sometimes w young mother, feeling scarcely older than her daughter, but obliged to take a perma- nent seat against the wall, while her own feet tingle with the desire to do as her daughter is doing. A girl may associate ner mother in her pleasures and enlist her interest by being a little confidential about what she hears and the people whom she meets, sure at least of a discreet confidante, Little attentions are never more appre- ciated than when shown by a girl to her mother or chaperon in publie, such as be- ing careful to give that lady precedence, anticipating her wishes in trifiing acts, watchful about draughts or discomfort in any form-—not after the patronizing man- ner that I have sometimes seen, of look- ing after some incompetent too old or too stupid to care for herself, but with loving considerateness and gentle defer- ence., This is the manner inculcated in European girls, and in this land of as- gertive democratic opinions we are in dan- ger of losing some of the graces that come of a reverent attitude toward those whose superiority in any form we acknowledge, In all relations enjoyment is enhanced by reciprocity, “Happiness was born a twin!"