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You Tie Them to the Side of Y our Head--- And the New Floppy Ones ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous “Lucile” of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion ar- ticle for this newspaper, pre- senting all that is newest and best in siyles for well-dressed ‘women, Lady Duff-Cordon's Paris es- tablishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fash- ion. By Lady Duff-Gordon. UST & peep at one of the newest—in fa couple of the very newest: hats. Some one called them “Ple- Plate,” which I think is a very unroman. tic term for so really fetch- iog a bonnet, and yet I cannot help admiring the patness of the description —at least for that which orpaments the top of my page to-day. This is really a very plate-y affair in plain black and white, but not, I as* sure you, except for shape, in the colors of which I made it. It is adjusted right over the side of the face, and an enormous wavy plume shoots out from the extreme side. The ribbon that holds it in place comes clear around the head and over the fore- ° bead llke a fillet. Its effect is altogether charming, and, after all, most of us wear hats not for wutility, but for orma- ment, This being so, what does it matter where or how we wear them, so long as they look well? 1 am sure no one could possibly think that the dainty and delicate cohfections that we call hats these days can be any protection to the head. And, after all, a woman's hair is enough protection in anything except the coldest of weather and in storms, and, naturally, in such weather one wears serviceable covering. But & hat, as I conceive it, is a device to accentuate some feminine charm of its wearer, or is—and this al- ways should be—a note of her costume itself. And therefore I am heartily in favor of wearing hats over one ear or over the nose or on the shoulder even, and not over any other part of the head, if one can gain & charm- ing and striking effect by doing so. Therefore I made the “Ple-Plate” hat. 1 have also some other hats—and these I shall show you soon—which have no crowns st alll Others which are worn entirely on the back of the head, and others which are worn directly over the face. Why not? \f they are pretty? The second hat is a modified form of the “Pie-Plate.” In this one the beautiful embroidered lace is carried around the forehead just as in the other, only instead of e Platedats, S — & Another ‘‘Pie-Plate’’ Hat, with Wonderful Embroidered Lace to Keep It in Place. being & narrow band it practically covers the face from the hair to Just above the eyes. The big hat is one of ¢ my new “Floppy” kind. It 48 just a very pretty hat suited to garden parties, and so on, and which becomes a certain type. Not every one ougnt to wear “Floppy” hats. In fact, hats are far more danger- ous than clothes, and should be studied just as much. ‘What folly to ruin the effect of a wonderful and perhaps expensive gown by an {ll considered bonnet! There is something quaintly old-fashioned and yet so positively new about these hats which goes well with the queer contrasting notes of the modern dresses, with their mem- ories of grandmamma in the wide-billowy masses of chiffon and so on. We have the wide. skirts of the past and the extremely narrow modern silhouette ¢that should always be seen through the wide skirts, 1 am glad to see the “military note” diminishing in the fashions. 1 myself made only one or two gowns that YOABAL +94v, o ke Slar Company, The ‘‘Pie-Plate''— Stuck Charmingly on the Head and Tied Down by a Band - the Side of Across the Forehead. “Luctle” Model. had this in, and I am trying to get away from It in every way possible. It seems to me horritying to bring into dresses this terrific misery and sorrow that we call war, Surely there is enough of it In the world now without constantly recalling it in dresses. There is nothing beautiful about war—nothing romantic. It is a hard, desperate, bitter struggle, which, of course, we must undergo whenever our liberties are threatened, but it should not appear in fashions. I am sorry to eay that T am still very much disap- pointed In the style of dress women wear here in the evening in public restaurants and dancing salons, I have not noticed recently, however, so much bare flesh —perhaps my small voice raised In protest has been listened to. In that case I have'not lived in vain, S0 many women seem somehow to lose their eleek, smart appearance in the evening and look as though they were made up of “odds and ends and bits.” I think it a thousand pities that in large public rooms they have given up wearing decorative evening hats. No woman seen from a distance can make as effective an Appearance with her head bare as with a lovely, fan- Great Britaln Rignts Reserved ~ tastic hat, created on purpose to wear under artificlal light. Many & shabby, old-fashioned dress in the past has been saved by a gorgeous paradise plume shooting up from an impertinent hat put on at an impossible angle. 1 suggest, too, that women again wear long gloves, for the bare arms and hands on the men’s black coats seem to give a free and easy look, which is far from sttrac tive in public places. The only time that no gloves are permissible is when a woman has faultiess arms and hands—then and then only. But as all the fashion tendgncies are going back to & period of great dignity—the stately days of Louls Philippe—in the near future we shall see no more une gloved hands, I hope. The petticoat has had its “rebirth.” The “tempesty ous” thing has come into its own again, each large skirt now demanding this very decorative adjunct. And all my evening dresses have the little 1845 draws ers as well, to match the chiffon petticoat; the skirte being 80 wide, six yards around and held out with hoops, these drawers are needed to give the required veiling, while still preserving the transparent effect. One of the New ‘‘Floppy"' Hats with the Simplest of Trimmings. “Lucile” Model. A