Evening Star Newspaper, March 19, 1933, Page 35

= Above, left to right: THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, Three-piece suit of sheer silky wool in black, white and yellow checks, worn with a black wool cape that has stitched revers. Coat of black wool that gives the effect of a dolman wrap. The yoke and scarf are of black galyac. % Evening gown of silvery gray satin with corsage of orange and white velvet flowers. More Than One Purpose Served by Many Frocks BY SYLVESTRE DORIAN, Director of the Paris Fashion Service. The writers of the Parish Fashion Service, ‘who rotate as contributors to this sefles of articles are the foilowing Lyolene, Molyneux, Rose Valois. Rose Descal, Maggy Rouff, Marcel Paray. A Bchiaparelll, Rochas, Lucile PARIS, March 11. LTHOUGH daytime never have the spectacular in- terest of frocks for evening wear, they are undoubtedly of more importance to the average | 1t forced dresses | |at all | other simple afternoon wear, for al- thcugh of woolen, the fabric is so sof: and supple that the costume is most flattering, and suitable for afternoon P woman never makes the e of dressing too elaborately. to economize, as many are these days, she does not choose elab- orate frocks, which must serve for both simple and elaborate occasions. On the contrary, she buys the smartest and simplesi ‘frock possible, and lets it do duty for a variety of occastol with the result that she appears chi times—often on a very limited mi: woman than any other type of costume. | dress allowance. Parls couturiers, I think, realize this, | eand particularly of recent years, have been devoting a great deal of attention Appreciating this point of view, many houses have definitely planned dresses that will serve two burposes. Mme. to this type of dress—with the result | Bruyere does this by adding a huge that d practicable, but noteworthy from the standpoint of line and color. 1 talked this matter over with Mme. n- | French colony of Indo-Chi terested to find that she agreed with | Jenny not long ago, and was me. She herself is laying more stress on the simple street frock this season | simple. than she has for years. She has done some clever things, too, which clearly demonstrate that she may still be con- sidered one of the foremost of Paris designers. She showed me several cos- tumes from her recent collection which have been ordered by important style leaders of Paris. These were designed in the spirit of classic simplicity that always raarks the productions of Mme. Jenny's work rooms. One that I liked very much was a coat dress of black crepy woolen, trimmed with white pique. The wrap- around skirt was given unusual individ- uality by a series of cobweb-like tucks radiating from the waistline to the bot- tom of the skirt. The same circular tucking was carried out on the slceves at the elbow. The dress close ver in surplice manner, with string belt tying at the waistline. The single rever was of a dull-finished pique, and a band of pique bordered the entirz neckline. 'This frock had just been made up for a client who had chosen to wear with it & cahotier of shiny black straw, with a black band and black and white buckle posed at the front, white doe- skin gloves, black patent leather pumps and a white patent leather bag. *x K X x ANO‘X'HSR interesting frock from Mme. Jenny's establishment makes use of color and fabric contrast— which, incidentally, is being featured by many couturiers this Spring. This costume is also in black, a very soft | woolen volle of unusually lovely tex- | ture, Viewed from the front, the dress gives the effect of a jumper costume, with a blouse of striped black and white crepe de chine. At the back, the jumper is the black voile buttoned around at the neckline. The striped crepe de chine is so cut as to form an interesting pattern of lines and angles. The skirt buttons at the back with five large buttons. _Accompanying the frock is a box jacket with a loose rag- lan sleeve, opened at the bottom with a series of buttons and button holes. The length of the sleeve is new, being just above the wrist. jacket, by the way, is being shown by a number of houses, and apparently in- dicates a new trend. Both of these Jenny frocks show real originality, and are indicative of the| place daytime costumes are playing this seasons. Couturiers recognize that many women must economive, and so to meet this need, they are offering dresses which may serve several pur- poses. The last frock described, when ‘worn with the jacket, is & conventional street costume. With the jacket re- moved, it is dressy enough for tea or time costumes are not only | plastron to the front of the street dress, | embroidering it in smart, simple designs One of these frocks is inspired by th embroideries and costumes of th makes this of black aelic, keeping th: design of the frock itself exceedingly The skirt is cut on straight lines, the long tight-fitting sleeves are of classic simplicity Without the plastron, the dress is of a rather severe street type, with a simple yoke of white angel’s skin. * ok ok x WORN in this fashion, on the street, the dress is eminently suitable For afternoon, the large plastron, cov- ering the front of the dress, but made 50 as to reveal a section of the white angel's skin yoke, is added. This is embroidered in six groups of Chinese hicroglyphics. To complete the Indo- China inspiration, the hat is the tight- fitting pointed cap worn in this Orien tal land. Like #0 many Parisian de- signers, this season, Mme. Bruyere ha: made gloves to complete the costum these being white with a similar de sign embroidered on the back. I saw this costume not long ago, at tea-time. It was worn by a very so- | Stressing the Wardrobe According BY AMY LINKER. HERE'S not a woman world who would nc sced, if she could. And it [ ny contention, that eve: woman can be well dressed, the will discover and learn a few simple principles. The first of these, and I think the most important, is suitability. Suitability means, of ccurse, that you choose the correct clothes for the occa- sion. And right here, I know that in the be weil many women are going to object that | only the woman with a well filled purse | can possibly have correct clothes for every occasion. That is. in a sense perhaps, true. But fortunately most of | us don't need clothes for every conceiv- able occasion. Our lives are so ordered that our clothes requirements can fall into & few groups. matter of selecting wisely the frocks and coats for those groupings. A wardrobe planned _thoughtfully need not be costly. Indeed. it may cost a very little, if wisdom is used n the selection of every article. The woman with a flare for chic starts the nning of her wardrobe with the sim- p plest garments, and progresses to the | more elaborate; rather than beginning with the elaborate and progressing to the simple. For she knows that a sim- ple frock may go to an elaborate func- tion, but that an elaborate one can't £0 to a simple one, and still be in good taste. * % X X THINK a very good way of plan- ning suitable costumes is to begin vith clothes for daytime wear. She will perhaps begin with frocks for such simple deytime occasions as shopping, or business if she is one of the modern women who crowd every minutg full. For such occasi6ns she may choose a smart tailored suit or a simple little wool frock, to be worn with an equally simple and equally smart coat and hat. Or she | may prefer a_well designed frock of durable silk. But for this type of cos- tume she will avoid all suggestion of ornamentation or elaboration. She will choose gloves and shoes and bag and It then becomes a | cut on impeccable lines, | phisticated type of woman, of perhaps | other accessories to harmonize with 40. She was accompanied by a|these daytime costumes, and having young girl of 18 or so, probably herl-ccumpliahed this first part of her daughter, dressed in quite 8s simple a|wardrobe, she will know that she is well manner. Her frock of dark blue cloque | dressed, because she is suitably dressed This type of box | jersey, was the popular two-piece, trimmed . with a group of very large galalith buttons, matching the frock in color. Enlivening the costume were deep starched linen cuffs, and a sort of shawl collar, both embroidered with Tows of dots. Like her mother, the young girl also wore a pointed cap of Indo-China suggestion, hers, however, being of a shiny black straw. American women, I feel sure, will find the style and utility features of these costumes of interest in planning and designing their own frocks for Spring and early Summer wear. (Copyright. 1933.) e New Permanents. MODERN permanents have no points in common with the old ones that looked as though they were carved out of wood or plaster. And when you ran | a comb through your hair after having undergone the tortures of an old-time permanent, your head looked as frizzy as that of a Fiji Islander. A hairdresser says that a permanent should always look fectly natural. Even when just ed there should t artificial set look that an artist objects to. When the waving is done in accordance with beliefs, he says, any woman may eadtly press the wave into place with her fingertips. for the «casion. Even if she were not able to buy another costume, she would | still feel that she had achieved a kind of distinction, The next step in assembling a smart wardrobe would be the choice of after- noon clothes, frocks and coats suitable | for tea at a smart tea room, for bridge, |or for any of the afternoon functions | that fill cur lives. These costumes will be of softer materials, a little more “dressy,” a little less practical. The coats worn with these frocks will be handsomely trimmed with fur. But they will still be definitely daytime cos- tumes of street length and of a char- acter that would be fitting for street wear. For even though you may travel by taxi or your own car, there is a sort of unwritten law that says that afternoon clothes must also be suitable for wear on the street. That bars out trailing skirts and such absurdities. * x % x EXT, the smart woman in assemb- | ling her wardrobe considers clothes for dinner wear and for the semi- | formal gayveties that begin in the late afternoon and last sometimes until the wee hours of the morning. If she is wise and if her purse is not as well filled as she might like to have it she will look for a costume that will serve equally well for an informal dine net party and for the that may come later. She may do by, to the Occasion | selecting an ankle-length frock, made with jacket cr cape that transforms it frem a s'ecveless dance costume into a smart, simple frock for dinner at a restaurant Last of all, the woman her formal evening frock. If her life is lived in a simple manner, she may omit this category entirely and have only the one type of evening dress— the simple one I have told you about. Or if she lives a very mondaine exist- ence then her evening costumes will |be as handsome and as beautiful as | money can buy. But, in either case, she will be suitably dressed, and if she has selected costumes individually becoming, she will know that she is well dressed. ‘This same simple little principle holds good no matter what sort of life you lead. It may be that you spend a large part of your time in the country. You may be a golf enthusiast, or a tennis player. Then, of course, you will allot 2 certain part of your clothes allow- ance to costumes suitable for those interests. You may travel widely and s0 will need not cnly the usual type of daytime costume, but also warm traveling coats and suitable dresses. * ok x o* | VWHILE three or four types of cos- { VY tumes are all that many women | need, every woman has to decide for | herself where she will place the em- phasis. A young girl, whose nights are pent in a round of gayety at dances |and evening parties, would naturally |devote a larger part of her clothes | allowance to evening frocks than the | professional woman to Who daytime | clothes are all-important. In designing the costumes that are to go into my collection, I always take into consideration this matter of suitas bility. No dress is ever designed until I have actually thought of a certain occasion, imagined myself in such cir- cumstances and then planned the dress I would like to wear. If it is a simple daytime suit, I think of myself on the Champs Elysees at 11 o'clock in the | morning, the sun shining and the whole world looking at the smart little suit I am wearing. If I were designing a raincoat, I would imagine myself tramping along on a pouring day and I should try to give just that note of gayety and practicability that would make even a rainstorm amusing. If you, in planning your costumes, can not only weigh the merits of suita- bility, but also imagine yourself wearing frocks and coats in certain surround- ings and at certain times, you will find almost unconsclously that you have discovered one way of creating a dis- tinguished wardrobe. (Copyright, 1933.) . Late Fashion News. PARIS, March 11. Tl-m most interesting of the new Spring suits and dry follow geometric designs. Innumefhble points, triangles and squares appear through- out various good collections. Lanvin makes an evening dress of crisp black otgandle, overlaid with triangles of white organdie, Marcel Rochas builds on the square, using vertical bands on both long and short sleeves, and stiff belts that box the and give a square effect wiat s smart and ithful, youl . Schiaparell features the %m\:m with the waist Wflmfin‘ the IWQWIM of the D. C. MARCH 19, 1933— o ART THREE. Suggested Spring Wardrobes MHIE 10 6T GREAT PROTECTION Precautions Against Light, Mold and Acid Taken in New Buiiding. Valuable records of the Government | will be protected lfllfllt deterforation | from light, mold, acid and other things which depreciate paper under a scien- | tific plan for storage to be installed | in the ncw Archives Building, now | under construction on the site of his- toric old Center Market, | Air cntering the building will even be | waghed with an alkaline solution to re- move all traces of acid, it is explained by sclentists. | Every Precaution Inciuded. “Every reasonable precaution is be- | in? included for the preservation of valuable Government records,” accord- | ing to a discussion of the subject in the Technical News Bulletin of the Bureau of Standards, Department of Commerce. { At the prezent time, it was explained, there is no general depository for the | records, and they are scattered through many buildings, exposed variously to danger of loss by fire, theft, and de- | teriorative influences. | “In addition to the usual protective | measures againet loss through fire and other visibl> and well-recognized en- emics,” cays the news bulletin, “un- usual precautions have been taken to guard against insidious enemies of paper and bindings, such as light and air not properly tempered and purified. In planning the defense against such deteriorants of records the recom- mendations of the bureau were fol- lowed. These are based upon an ex- tensive study of the preservation ot records in libraries, conducted by the burexu with the assistance of funds granted by the Carnegie Foundation to the National Research Council. Daylight to Be Excluded. | “While it has been generally known that light is not, favarable to the Dres- ervation of psper, e bureau has | shown that its destructive effect is mure | rapid and intense than commonly ap- | preciated. In the Archives Bufiding | daylight will be entirely excluded from | the storage spaces; small incandescent | buibs. turned on only as needed, will | upply the necessary illumination. “A large air-treating system capable | of handling 330,000 cubic feet of air | per minute- will insure the purity and proper tempering of the atmosphere throughout the building. A new fea- | Bpectal Dispateh to The Star. EW YORK, March 14 (NANA). —"“Pritzi Schefl is destitute in Connecticut.” ‘The diva of 30 years ago, the toast of the elite of Vienna and of New York's “400,” read the item in £ newspaper column ¢s she sat in her rcom in a moderately-priced hotel in the forties, The windows locked down on the Broadway and Times Square that had been hers for the asking and the taking. A venerable “pom,” constant compznion of the last 12 years, a rubber ballsbe- tween his paws, grouched before the wardrobe trunk that bore the large, faded letters, “Fritzi Schefl.” Tho little weman dressed In a simple afternoon dre eyes from the pursed in e smile. “Ccnnecticut,” she pondered. H harply, I am not there, at my old | Summe: home ncar Waterbury. They | have just taken that aw ‘destitute’ — just mean? What is the nuance in English? | If it means penniless and friendless —r thousand times no, There ere a few pennies, and scme silver change be- sides, and there is still a host of friends. “Yes, I Am Broke. ” “If it means ‘broke’—and she tossed back her head with a laugh—*yes, I am broke.” Then, with a trace of mischief, | she asked “bui I understood that all are broke now, with the banks cloced.” There was no sign of false pride or regret. | “I've had everything,” she said “so — e ture content of the air will be care- | fully controlled, for high temperature | and extreme dryness p.omote embrit- tling of paper, while too much moisture may cause molding. It is planned to maintain a relative humidity of 55 per cent in the etorage spaces and of 45 per cent work rooms. The latter condition is better adapted to human beings. The temperature throughout will be kept at 70 degrees Fahrenheit during the Winter and 80 degrees Fah- renheit during the SBummer. The higher temperature during hot weather s more economical and is more healthful for the personnel, as it avoids sudden | exposure to too great & change in tem- | erature in entering or lecving the uilding. Continuous maintenance of *be hwinddiy within 2.5 per cent and of tr+ temperature within 1 degree zbave or below the chosen conditions is be- lieved feasible. Glazed Tile to Be Used. ‘“Another interesting precaution is the use of glazed tile and the incasing of concrete columns in non-ferrous metal to minimize abrasive dust. Coated or non-ferrous metals will be used where metal is required In the storage spaces, «Un- | FRITZI SCHEFF. why should I complain at this monetary difficulty? Things like this come to every one some time. I have my health, my voice"—she stood up and appraised herself in the mirror, motioning toward her shoulders and her hips—“and I am not so big.” She talked briskly and happily of other days. She was born in Vienna| in 1879." Her mother once sang the leading parts at the Imperial Opera House of Vienna and her father was| a wealthy surgeon. Her first success- | ful stage appearance was in “The Daughter of the Regiment.” She wenq to Frankfort, Berlin, understudied at Vienna, waiting for Eames, Sembrich | and Nordica to become ill and permit her to have her chance. | There was a dashing German cavalry officer, Baron Fritz von Bardeleben, captain of the 13th Dnperial Hussars, and she married him. o Had Entree to Society. In 1902 she came to New already “Mme. Schefl.” She was an| immediate success, and her -natural cultural advantages, together wih her new fame, gave her the entree to the | upper crust of New York society. Her| marriage with the baron a failure, she divorced him and in 1909 quietly mar- ried John Fox, jr, author of “The Little Shepherd of Kingdom Come” and | other stories of the Cumberlands. They were divorced in 1913 and she married her manager, Geor#® Anderson, whom she divorced in 1917, Meanwhile she had become one of | the most popular actresses in the his- | York, | | permit the procedure. | pathy, because I don't need it. But finally, after years of success, bad times set in. “But it was only about a year ago,” Miss Scheff sald, “that my finances came definitely in bad condition. One of the artistic type cannot work prop- erly when harrassed for funds, nor can one jump from a window when a process server is at the door. Court Jjudgments, trailing by men with legal papers—those were antying. Had Three Servants. “Some months ago I went to El:‘d ‘l‘:.l nmmpou‘ry work until n}: ncial c: permitted a proper rol again. Now I'm not joking,” she in- sisted, “when I tell you that I have béen accustomed to at least three personal servants and as many as 15 trunks, I went to Detroit alone with one trunk. After a theater engagement I went to work for a club. Then came the climax. The Detroit banks closed end the man- agement had no money to pay my back salary. I went to the hotel and said I was leaving for New York and told them to send the bill to the club pro- prietor. “I was politely told that I could leave whenever I wished, but that my trunk would be held. It would have been the first time that Fritzi Schefl’s trunk had been held by a hotel, and I declined to I simply stayed there until money and railroad fare were given me from the salary due. “So here I am. The hotel people understand the circumstances, and I am sure of a pl to live. What's the use of putting on what Broadway calls ‘a front'? I am not lzoking for sym- Al need is a job, and that will come. Knows Four Languages. “One shculd not wholly de- pendent on the stage,” she went on. “If the theater business comtinucs to be bid I shall try scmething else. I know four languages fluently, and might take some position in which they would be useful. Court interpreter, perhaps, or some- thing like that. I shouid not mind, for as I told you, one who has h what I have had should not complain It had become dark outside, znd the theater lights were going on. New, youthful names, those of men and wom- en coming almost two generations after Fritzi Schefl, heralded new silccesses. The dog stirred in the corner, and fidgeted with the rubber ball. “Oh, I forgot” exclaimed Fritzi Bcheff. “It's supper time for him.” She put on her coat and went to a small butcher shcp on Ninth avenue for a half pound of chopp:d stak, 6 cents’ worth. “It's cheeper over here” confi Fritzi Schefl. ded (Copyright, io8s. by North American Newse er Al Inc Harvard Faculty Aided. CAMBRIDGE, Mass., March 18 (&), —The Harvard Corporation today an- nounced the grant of 47 awards totaling $43.000 to members of the Harvard ture will be the washing of the air with | to eliminate the necessity of repainting, an alkaline solution to remove posi- tively any acidic contamination which might otherwise find its way into the | storage space. The bureau's work has ehewn conclusively that acid gases, es- pecially sulphur dioxide, widely pro- duced by the combustion of fuels ac- celerate the deterioration of all kinds which would be hazardous to the stored records. “This Archives Building can well serve as a model for the housing of valuable records of all kinds, since in planning it every adventage has been taken of the most advanced architec- tural, engineering and scientific knowl- tory of American musical comedy and |faculty for research work during the light opera. From the Metropolitan Next two years. she went to the Dillingham manage-| The awards were made under the ment, and Victor Herbert was so im- Pprovisions of funds established by the pressed with her work that he wrote late Willlam F. Milton, graduate of four operettas for her, “Mademoiselle | 1858, and Joseph H. Clark, class of 1857, Modiste,” “Prima Donna,” “The Duch- | 80d cover & range of research subjects ess” and “Babette” “Mademoiselle | from “the construction of a map of Modiste” alone played for three con-|mars” to a study of Chinese and Mon- considers | of papers. The temperature and mois- | edge.” “Wear-Ever” 2-lipp Saucepans. The “mo used” sizes 1,14 and 2 13 for Set $1 Large, Thick-Metal Fry Pan This is an 11" Fry Pan. Just right for Fried Chicken. Its thick, heavy metal cooks evenly and quickly. Has 2 lips for easy pouring of gravies, etc. “A 3-Saucepan Set Three fast-even-cooking Get a Set. Regular Price only s1 9_9_ Regular Price $2.28 tinuous years, with Fritzi Scheff singing | gclian mammals. o9 These Standard‘ Weal‘-EVEI‘ Aluminum Utensils A5 A COVERED SAUCE AN New 3-Way Combination It's really 3 “Wear-Ever” Utensils inl.Provides a 2Qt.Double Boiler for custards, cereals, etc. A 2 Qt. Covered Baking Dish for pud- dings,etc. A3 Qt.Covered Sauce- panforstewing, etc. 5149 ed st- Qt WEAR EVER only -90 Reg. Price $2.00 ALUMINUM 4, 8, 12 CUP PERCOLATORS These are “Wear-Ever” Percolators . . . the standard. Broad flat bottoms that won't buckle under flame. Prices Now 4Cup 5149 8Cup$1.79 12 Cup $1.98 Regularly $1.75 Regularly $2.25 Regularly $2.50 Also Get a 1933 Model "Wear-Ever’’ Tea Kettle $2.75 2 Qt. Size $2.95 3 Qt. Size Ever see anything as good- looking as this new “Wear- Ever” Kettle? It's practical, foo . . . when you lift its rigid, $3.25 4 Qt. Size $3.50 5 Qt. Size finger-grooved handle tilts the Kettle into pouring position. Buy TODAY. . . from your S. KANN SONS CO. LANSBURGH & BRO. DULIN & MARTIN CO. NORTHWEST ITKDI.ICK‘ 3271 M St. ™ xfé}mfim 8t. . to., 52 o BWb%R. %500 . 0. teock: g:g“”&"&:sfln;‘ l,J!nL Store - L, . Beall . AIRY, Rudy & Birdette Rainier MT. ) Mt NORTH EAST. Geo. L. Wing: ‘ . geiang He BRUNSWICK, H. N. Werntz CAMBRIDGE, Herpert Hearn Hdwe. Co. S’ . .C. E. Noland & TERTOWN. .C. Son’ ] PORT EOCKVILLE. 0., 3559 "G 5 Tath't ros. & Boswell 'OMOKE, Mathews & Lankford . Hohn & Touchstone W! Hicks & Sor Favorite “Wear-Ever’’ Store PALAIS ROYAL, INC. BARBER & ROSS RUDOLPH & WEST CO. SOUTHEAST g B, 1115 gl 1‘!. 3 [ 230, Ave, 65 !A. fl? i Ave, » 2210 4th St. . AST 50, 003 1 8t SOUTHWEST GEO. M. YEATMAN, 426 7th Bt. HD .. 00: HDWE. STORE, 500 G 8. EEang, » RT NE WE. CO., 707 H St K, W. NORFOLK, Smith THE HECHT CO. GOLDENBERG’S E. B. ADAMS CO. W ROS,. 3430 14th St. D HDWE. CO., 2134 Pa. Ave. NORTHEAST WE. CO., 3501 12th 8t. 6 R. I Ave. VIRGINIA EARES B E st o non RN & e Ol Fausett_China 8. BRISTOL, Scates Hdwe, Co. CAPE CHARLES, W. B. Wilson & Son CHARLOTTESVILLE, ~Charlottesville rUSUELLVILLE, E. E. Hwe v e ERICHMOND, Miller & Rhoads, Inc Ny Goa M. Yiaiman ! pe . Anderson enheimer, Inc. Broadway Dept. Store warts Co. Welton, Inc. NORFOLK. Max Schwan, TERSB h J Ha PETFRSBURG. Rucle’r- toc) PORTSMOUTH, Standard Hdwe. Co. Nichols Bros. Inc. Hdwe. ate % ot Amu & Son &.‘%’:&.fi‘nfi'