Evening Star Newspaper, September 13, 1931, Page 45

Offers Small Modified (L EFany 7 ¥ 8 ] - Siba 1188 £33 i 1 HG 45 & seBE gasse dbove, left to right: Black wool ecrepe dress trimmed with black mohair braid, by of red woel with hrown and Jerseys Marocain Prominent icile Paray. design in vellow and white, by Michelle. a Feature of Chanel Brown jersey frock with lame Martial and Armand dress eray embroidery. for Daytime Clothes. Wide Range of Pajamas for Informal Wear. INY modified Russian caps ac- companied most of the street dresses shown at Chanel’s Fall season when almost every other designer has gone Empress Eugenie with a vengeance. These were made with a pleat or two to fit them to the Pead .and with A turn-back bind at either side—of fur if the coat or en- semble was fur-trimmed, or of the ma- terial. As many of Chanel'’s new en- sembles are in two colors, the hats followed the same plan. Color contrast wes also seen in the linings of coats, which matched the accompanying dresses and contrasted definitely with the coats. A red dress was worn with a cocoa-brown coat lined with red, and a grecn coat With a lack lining over a black dress. Famous always for her fabrics, Chanel shows a new diagonal jersey in bright colors, used for the biouses of jacket suits. These are usually cut to the waist In front, with a sharp cutaway line, but extend to the hips at the sides and back and are held to the figure by a shaped corselet belt. S o 'AN OTHER new jersey used here gave the effect of being tucked all over. Still another had rows of veining 2 inches long interspersed with the same length of plain material. Black maro- cain was prominent in the day clothes, combined with Chanel's own jerseys in black and white for the bodice. or with slecves and touches of white pique. Tre tight-fitting sleeves of the pique are covered with a sleeve of the maro- cain, widened at the elbow and split its entire length. Sleeves still retain much interest for this designer, from tise double puff caps which she uses on evening dresses and pajamas to the many different elabora- tions on daytime clothes. While tHere are many little workings at the cuff, the interest generally centers around the elbow, and there are still some seven-eighths-length sleeves. ok ok ok A MONG the littie decorative notes in which Chanel excels are gored cuffs ©f white leather on black frocks, bib Coat of black and green dia, black astrakhan, designed by Jane opening, a distinctive note in a | Collection: THE SUNDAY STA | 1collars and cuffs of bird's-eye pique |edged with tiny material. a restrained cowl neckline faced with a lei of ermine, with the ac- companying coat edged in the same | way down its front and with two nar- row mnds on the sleeves. leather belts are matched with black patent gloves, with the palms only of kid, either in black or white. A very deep decolletage in a black sequin frock is ecut by the of a handkerchief scarf, also of the sequins, wrapped close arcund- the throat, with the point in the center front. oo w "THIS house has definitely gone in for the pajama for the intimate hours, | when most other houses have not in- cluded it in their showings. Mile Chanel uses every material from velvet |to lace for them, not forgetting lame, |and always her pajama creations are unusual. | Sometimes, as in & lace and mous- | seline frock in black. she contents her- | self with making the foundation in | trousers. Again, in a black velvet cos- | tume the bodice is headed in front with |a jeweled band 3 inches wide, which is repeated at the center of the belt. In | the back there is a rather high decol- letage, but with a slit from the square top which reaches almost to the waist- line, a favorite decolletage here for all | formal clothes. This outfit had long | medieval sleeves which reached to the knee, but exposed a square of flesh at the shoulder top, as if the bodice had ‘The | trousers themselves were fairly nmarrow at the bottom. and, instead of being | shaped te the figure, gathered the full- | ness into the waist quite simply. s Open Shelves. Open book shelves, it is generally | agreed. now look better because we get the effect of closer contact with our books if they sre not separated from us by glass. The color of the bindings of books lends a pleasant tone to the rooms in which they are kept and this is somewhat dimmed by gl weave homespun trimmed with ’ ’ agny. Maggy Rouff coat of black wool f_ srimmed with sealskin, The huge cuffs are nqnwonhy. 3 flowers of the same Patent | | | Emergency Sheif ‘| Helps in Illness| IN time of peace prepare for war u‘ & good motto for the housewife to apply to the matter of preparations for | iliness in the home. When the emer- | gency really comes you will find it & | great eonvenience if you can lay vour | | hands quickly on the few essentials to | | home nursing and first aid that will | probably be needed. This does not require | expensive purchasing. The important | thing is to have the things vou will need | all together in a place where you can lay your hands on them immediately. One housewife has a large tin box with a cover on the top shell of her linen closet and in this she keeps such needfuls as may be required. It is im- portant to keep the things closely cov- ered so that they will be free from dust when needed. Here are some of the things that you may n that should be included | in_your supply. ‘Two or three small white enamel dishes or basins such as are sold in drug stores at small cost and will be convenient to the doctoy or nurse in making dressings. A larger dish that may be used to hold instruments when they are sterilized. A graded measuring glass, a medi- cine dropper .and & g spoon. A roll of bandaging, a package of | sterilized gauze and a package of sterile | absorbent_cotton. | If you have an ice cn&). syringes and douche bags they should be kept with| | this equipment, but it is well not to get these things specially until nceded, as rubber goods tometimes dry out and deteriorate if kept long on hand. Among the drugs that the doctor or | nugse may ask for that you should have on hand are powdered bo- racic acid, peroxide, some sort of medi- | cated alcohol suitable for giving s e baths, alboline and white vaseline. It is better never to keep on hand strong disinfectants, such as mercury tablets and carbolic acid, as poisons always are & source of anxiety in any household where they might be mistaken for something | Trousseau for 1931 R. WASHINGTO Above, right: Chantal coat of beige wool_trimmed with beige fur. The collar is separate. Left: Martial and Armand coat of red wool trimmed with astrakhan, 1o accompany the wool dress sketched abore. Becoming—Wedding Season Is SPTEMBER 1 Russian At $ha right is a dress of green ool designed by Irene Dana. trimmed in It is diagonal lines with bindings of silk squares. The neck- line i an becoming one. Pretty and Gown May Be Both Dignified and Smart—Departure Costumes. BY MARY MARSHALL. | ROUSSEAU shopping is a thrill- ing adventure even if the trous- seau doesn't happen to be your own, and when a voung_ friend of ours—we'll call her Pegy asked us to go along with her on her | expedition. we didn't wait to be urged. Then Peggy explained that—as every | one knew- she had_planned to be ma ried a year ago. But something hap- pened. Bill's commission, or rovalties, | or interest, or whatever it was, dwindled and so they had to put off the wed- ding. “But you can't imagine how happy T am about it now,” Peggy announced. “Clothes began to be interesting a vear ago, but they are perfectly ador- able now. They are becoming, and while I dont expect to spend & bit more money on my trousseau, I can get. things that look & lot more expen- sive and interesting now for the money I have to spend.” And so in bringing up this matter of Autumn trousseau, congratulations are in order. Brides of‘the Autumn of 1931 really are fortunate. Presumably there never is a time in a woman's life when clothes are more important than when she is a bride— nor a time when she feels justified in buying so many of them. * ok owox "JO begin with, the most significant dress of all—the wedding dress. It 1s picturesque and dignified. feminine and lovely, as wedding dresses should be. But it manages to be all these things without departing at all from the accepted mode of the season. In the era of the short skirt for all oc- casfons, the bride either had to choose a short-skirted dress that was out of keeping with the traditional solemnity of the occasion or else wear a specially designed long-skirted model that was out of keeping with the prevailing mode Today's bride may walk slowly to the altar perfectly confident that her long trailing skirts are not only ap- propriate to the setting but in perfect accord with the latest fashions in for- mal dresses generally. The Autumrm bride will naturally choose white satin, | not only because white satin is the | traditional fabric, but because satin is | one of the season’s most important | fabrics and lends itself perfectly to the graceful draping and diagonal ad- justment of the accepted fashions. | Woolens in “IITH September ushered in and the | New York shops showing such | beautiful copies and adaptations of the interesting clothes designed in Paris this Summer, it is a little puzaling to decide what to buy first. There is considérable technical infor- mation to be gleaned about woolens, | and we have gathered it on two conti- nents, since woolens are a strong fea- ture of the new mode. But this infor- mation is about as interesting for the lay woman to read as is a text book of geometry. It is sufficient to know that woolen is & correct fabric in interpret- ing the styles of 1931-32, which are just different enough from those of three months ago to label themselves as new. Among the best of the fashions is that of the wool dress to be worn with those charming Victorjan capes and neckpleces of fur that partly cover the shoulders. This combination makes one of the smartest street ccstumes for the first chilly days of Autumn. | Diagonal weaves are perhaps the fa- | vorites in woolens, that range from | rough, pebbly surfaced cloths to fine broadcloth, an old-time moaterial that has staged a swift comeback this scason and is used extensively in the more for- | mal type of Fall costume, from coats to | evening dresses. The newest evening | wraps are of pastel-colored broadcloths. Cashmere 1s a wool to keep your eye on. It will be used extensively later on. At the present time the crepes, jerseys and diagonal weaves are most in de- mand, with broadcloths for more toé-mll clothes, and flat furs are more Often used to trim the less formal wool suits and dresses. In colors, brown, aJ} the new shades B JT to get back to Peggy and her trousseau expedition. The rcally jmportant matier of the morning was to select what Peggy called her de- parture costume. The first question ! to settle was one of color. That was | very important because the choice of shoes. hand bag and other accessories all depended on this important deci- sion. Peggy's first choice was brown | and in the end we did decide on | brown, not_just because it is very be- | coming to Peggy's light brunette color- | ing, but because there are so many | | charming brown costumes and brown | hats and accessories from which to choose. But there are ever so many colors for the Autumn bride's selection. and there is excellent precedent for the choice of one of the brighter or lighter | tones. Good precedent also for the combination of two contrasting colors. An unusual choice for the going- away costume—but one in line with | the latest fashion developments—would be prune color. egg plant. wine or one | of the new purplish blues, Green. either alone or in combination with beige or brown, has much to recom- mend it. And speaking of green one should learn to differentiate the va- | rious shades. such as the new Persian green, forest green. grass green and bottle green. Among lighter neutral colors one may consider the possibilities of gray and beige—either of which are decidedly smart for street costumes ;‘hen combined lavishly with darker ur. * ko X PEGGY'S going-away or d!par'urtl costume as she chose to call it, | consisted of a two-plece suit trimmed | with fur—brown with an egg shell | blouse. And to wear with this for motoring she selected 2 neutral-colored camel's hair coat. made without fur trimming, of cour Brown alligat strap pumps with sheer brown sto ings, & brown alligator bag and light ecru gloves were added to the list, and last of all a rosewood necklace and bracelet set. Even in a colorful season like the | present Peggy has a fondness for black so she chose a black pony coat, at a | reasonable figure, but with all the slim elegance of a very h\gh-griced ‘wrap. To wear with this she has a sheer black wool crepe afternoon dress and a black satin theater dress with a small black velvet hat. New Styles of red. and green, black and beige are in the lead. Give consideration to reds, especially the shade known as Spanish tile, in dresses. It §s well to remember that it is newer and smarter to have a | contrasting coat rather than one that matches your dress. | Traps ;nd Pitffils . Of New Millinery Hat styles are delightful, but dan- gerous, this season. Take care how you choose and how you wear that new Empress Eugenie hat. ‘The temptation to be a girl from a old-fashioned “Portrait of a Lady complete with shoulder cape, muff and tip-tilted beplumed hat, is proving too much for many women, Remember that there are simple ver- slons of this new hat style which are to be worn during the daylight and in- | formal hours. Keep the hat with the | swirling _ostrich feather for the tea | hour or ‘the thefter, and wear with it | one of the newly fashionable formal | frocks of salin cr velvet, not a light. weight woolen dress of tallored sim- plicity. a Remember, tos, that every one of these hats must be tilted very far for- ward over one eye, worn rather high in the back and well off one side of the ‘head. If you are conservatively minded, however, you will find many less ex- treme adaptations of the Eugenie mode in the smart millinery shops—hats with modified crowns and wider brims that fit lower in the back than did the orig- inal importations, | should be addressed to the bride. especially House Invitations. “I've had an invitation to a wedding of somebody I don't know at all, but the bridegroom is a fraternity brother of my husband. We've been invited to the ceremony at church and to the reteption at the house afterward. Stould we send the gift to the bride?” Thus writes Mrs. J. L. P. Yes, indeed. The invitation to the heuse means a gift, even if you have never met the bride. And all gl’irt.s o be suie, gifts are sometimes given to tke bridegroom, but in that case another gt is given to the bride. In this case it would. T think, be a | ALTERNATING sunshine and showers | god plan to choose something for the | house, as your husband though an old one of the bridegroom-— better than choosing something strictly personal for the bride. Fashion Cable. PARIS, September 3. IONNET, while true to her traditional line, makes a def- inite cut-in effect at the normal waistline of coats and suits. Full- length fur wraps have wide inser- tion of either broadcloth or satin at the waist, emphasizing slim waistline. _Combination muff- purses, usually in soft pouch ef- fects, carried with most ensem- bles. Long, snug contrasting cuffs, extending above elbow, with nar- row self-material tie at top and wrist, seen on several dresses with matching decolletage trim. Draped collars on daytime dress- es are usually twisted in front or start -from a knot. Many staded effects in both velvet and chiffon, as well as three-layer chiffon frocks. Many fur coatees and scarfs which fasten in the back at the waistline, as well as sepa- rate round collars. Hellstern showing shoes for daytime wear in combination of patent kid and antelope, or for dressy wear in satin and kid. Julienne shows evening shoes in etfpet and satin combined with velvet. is a friend, | Above. left to richt: Red wool kid belr, by Megey Roufi. Black wool low and pink plaid. designed by Charl, dress in rust shade, with red frock trimmed with blue. vel- otte Riva. Martial and Armend gown of green broadeloth trimmed swith giltedged flowers. PARIS, September 3. during the Grande Semaine at Deauville made the wearing of rainy- day clothes almost a necessity and pro- duced many interesting costumes of this type. An amusing white crepe rain suit | seen there had a most interestingly cut skirt, something entirelv new in the wrap-around category. The lapped part was at the back, with a straight narrow front panel, and the rest of the skirt definitely narrowed at the knees, well being snug its full length. Green buttons marked the double-breasted. hip-length jacket, matching the belt and hat worn with it. The tiny um- brellx also was of rubberized crepe in green. and when the sun came out the costume was a most effective one, giv- ing no suggestion of its value in the | rain Other smart ensembles were largely of ofled silk, in bright colors, accom- panied by carriage-size umbrellas of the same material One of the most amusing of the little wraps noted at the Bar Soleil on Sun- ) day was neither coat nor cape. but am ingenious combination of both, with | scarf additions. Cut in a point’ which xtended just below the belt in front, it was cut back to make the sleeve por- tions, little cape tabs in reality. Back of the arms it was crossed, surplice fashion, to extend around the waist like a belt, and fashioned in a tiny knot in front.’ It was of thin wool in emerald green and was lined with the olive shantung which made the accompany- ing frock. This would make a most amusing little dinner wrap. and I fancy we will see many such wraps this Win- ter for indoor wear. The light-colored woolen coats in cafe au lait and toast brown shades and in light gray. with furs in dark brown or black. worn with dresses matching the furs, made a definite bid for popularity, equaling their importance in the collecs tions and receiving the most favorable attention. Belts &re important on all daytime costumes. from the wide leather belt solidly stucded with big silver na heads. to inch-wide fabric belts. Crushed patent lesther belts in green. brown and black vary in width from 3 to & . inches. LM Black Is Used in Colorful Manner UTUMN evening gowns of black velvet have deep berthas of the finest lace. These gowns give more than anything else has done for years. a suggestion of rcal wealth of material | They are very gracious. very lovely, and carry an air of smart dignity. Black taffeta also appears for Autumn evening gowns. It lends itself well to the long-skirted. gently flaring tvpe of dress. Sometimes huge. but soft and rather flat. crushed bows decorate the back at the end of the decolletage. Blue and black—bright blue—satin form the two sides of the girdle or belt of one of the new black satin evening dresses. The dress is trimmed with buttons of blue enamel and strasse. An interesting black ensemble con sists of a black Autumn street dress of sheer wool, black shoes, platinum beads, platinum _stockings. a black handbag with steel mountings, black gloves and black hat. 5, Fashion Essentials. | Here are the things that you must remember about the new fashions. The new pencil silhouette with lenger, more slender lnes, Greater width of th> shoulders. Pinched-in waist'ne. Luxurious fur ecsllars on coats. Coats. remeraber, are made with & generoucly lapped wrap-over at the 1ront, but are alwzys securely buttoned or belted. Ceats that must be clutched ! together are quite out of date. | | Short Fur Coats. The short fur jacket has a definite place in the season’s fashions. One of | the smartest types of cloth coats is made | with a fur jacket top. That is, the lower part of the coat is cloth with & fur | upper section. Then there is the fur jacket ensemble consisting of a dress of lightweight. wool with a hip-length | jacket of lightweight fur. Brown wool ceat designed by Jone Regny. The large coller and he leopard small cuffs are of beaver, coat was.designed by Maggy Rouf]. and the sleeve treatment is new. 4