Evening Star Newspaper, December 1, 1929, Page 71

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, THE NILE GREEN CHIFFON DINNER DRESS AT THE LEFT HAS PANELS ATTACHED BY SHIR. RINGS AT THE SIDES ND BACK, AND SNUG HIP GIRDLE FASTENED WITH RHINESTONE BUCKLE. THE EVENING GOWN-AT THE RIGHT HAS CIRCULAR FLOUNCES OF NET TO ACCENT THE LONG, IRREGULAR HEMLINE AT THE SIDES. AND RAISED WAISTLINE. Fitted, Slim Silhouette Is Here Presented at Its Best, While Great ‘Length of Skirt Is Attained in Various Ways—Extreme Results Are Achieved by Raising Waistline to What Was Formerly Con- sidered Normal—Treatment of Back Also Is Emphasized in Late Models—Satin Retains First Place in Popular Esteem. BY HELEN DRYDEN. T is in evening clothes that we see just how gracious and graceful, subtle and sophisticated, the new fashions really can be. Here you have the fitted, slim silhouette at its best—molded bodice and slim hips | accented by full skirts that reach lt: least to the ankle, often to the floor— | and may even trail along it. This great length of skirt is at- tained in various ways. The skirt may fall in uneven points from panels or circular flounces attached at the sides, or snugly swathed hips may be elongated in the back with two split panels, falling to the floor and pos- eibly dragging along. Then there are frocks which fall full and long, evenly all round, touching the floor or per- haps jagged in petal points. Other long skirts are split, sometimes in front and again at the sides. Still others temper their length by transparent flounces from the knees down or a deep hem band of tulle. Not a few are elongated by tier below tier, or circular flounces spirally descending, the last trailing off into a train. This length of skirt is increased by Taising the waistline to what was for- | merly considered normal. In some ex- | treme models it is 50 high as to suggest | the mode of the Empire and_in other | gowns it is still rather indefinitely lo- cated at the top of the hips. Patou has decided on the natyral waistlin and frankly marks it ‘with a belt stened with a jeweled buckle. * x iy VWHILE lengthened skirt and high waistline are the outstanding factors | in our evening dresses, the treatment | of the back also is emphasized. No one i need hesitate to turn the back. for even though the V or U shaped decolletage | may be rather startling it is softened by | lapel, capelet, jabot, semi-loose panels | hanging from the.shoulder, or a bow placed over the hips at one side. Among evening fabrics, lames are the newest, soft, supple and sometimes sheer and delicately patterned. Then there | are velvets, radiant and supple, the | transparent, panne and chenille types. | The brocades, some with metal threads, | others patterned in velvet, some stiff | and formal such as Louiseboulanger | wses for her bouffant gowns, others bro- | caded on sheer grounds. With them | should be classed failles, taffetas, plain | and flowered in soft, faded colors, and | moires which are cleverly bowed, with | low dipping panels to give the length. * X % % SA'nN retains the first place as a general favorite, dull and stiff satins, ranking of its own, especially in black and blonde, beige and brown tones. | While black is the invariable first choice, white and the off-white tones are almost as popular. Then there are pastels, shell pink, Nile green, aqua- marine and turquoise blue, yellow ahd the deeper tones of the jewel tints such as emerald, sapphire and ruby. (Copyright, 1929.) Child as Shock Absorber When the Boy Is Used| to Scold Various| Tradesmen for Their} Mistakes, He Is inj Danger of Being Affected by His Ex-| periences—Do It Yourself. BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. “That grocery man knows better than to send me bad eggs. After all the| money I've paid him in the last five years you'd think he'd try to keep me | for a customer.” | Mrs. Barlowe pushed away the egg box with a disgusted sniff. “After school you march right down with them, Earl, and tell him exactly what I said.” “But, Mom, I don't like to. He's klnd; of a nice man. Mebbe he didn't know | the eggs were bad.” | “No—maybe the farmer he bought | them from didn't tell him . . . There’s | the telephone! Run and see who it is.” | “Well—who was it? Your face is as long as your arm.” “It was just Dad. He says to get his new suit and take it up to the tailor and tell him about the lining in the coat.” “What's wrong with the coat? It looked all right when he tried it on last | night. He didn't say anything about it this morning.” “I don’t know. Something about him gettin’ to thinkin’ this morning that the tailor was to put silk in the sleeves and then not doing it. I hafta lug it up | and tell him to change it.” Just then Aunt Molly called down-| stairs. “Say, Earl, don't go yet, will| you? Il be right down. There's some- thing I want you to do [>r me after school.” | ‘For goodness sake. Whatta you folks think I am? A lightning express, huh? Every day and every day I got more stuff to do after school than you c'd shake a stick at.” But Aunt Molly hadn’t heard. Just “Well, I'm sure they all need it.” said his mother. “Anyway, little folks shouldn't have feelings like us older folks.” “Oh, I haven't any feelings, haven't 1! Well, I just guess I have. I'll take the old coat and eggs and tickets back, but I'm not going to say a word. Haven't any feelings! I like that! Huh!” A year or so later his father re- marked to his mother one night: “I can't understand what's coming over that boy of ours. He's as Cross as two sticks, and no matter what you say to him he’s ready with same smart Aleck answer. He's got a good home and I don’t see what can have changed him s0." I was just thinking that, too, lately, Joe. He acts as though he was just going to be insulted always. I wonder what'’s done it?” “I'm sure I don’t know. Oh, say, Jennie, did you speak tc Earl about wmng at the bank about my check- k tomorrow at noon? I distinctly told them about stamping it and they left the middle initial out of my name. Wait! T'll tell him myself. Earl—oh, Earl! Tomorrow I want you to . ., We'd like to say. ““This is the end. There isn’t any more.” But alas and alack, there is no end. Earl is still the goat. It isn't fair and it isn't right to ask | children to do things we wouldn't do | ourselves, L They Co Together. Roasted meats—Mashed potatoes or potatoes browned in the pan with the meat. Broiled steak—Creamed potatoes. Roast pork—Baked potatees. Roast chicken-—Mashed potatoes. Roast lamb—Mashed potatoes. Lamb chops—Baked potatoes. ‘Tomatoes in some form with veal. Lamb—Serve green beans or peas. Roast chicken—Creamed onions and sour jelly. Roast pork—A green vegetable, if possible, and apple sauce. Test the Oven. A safe way of testing the heat of the a lustrous panne satins and crepe satins | then she ran down the stairs with a oven for cake and pastry making is to which afford the opportunity to com- | bine matte and brilllant surfaces irregular, ¥ effects. in | some of the most sophisticated of the simple evening gowns. Of sheer fabrics, net, fine tulle, jersey tulle and coarse ffisherman’s net are newcomers and ATeat favorites. Lace is often combined th them, although it has a fashion small envelope which she held out to| her nephew, “Go past the Alwyn Thea- | jvertical sections and trellis | ter on your way home, that's a good |ately, | boy, and ask the man at the box office | ing. I Flat crepe and crepe de chine make | if he can't do better than the twelfth |four minutes, | row for Saturday matinee. If he doesn't | give you something better just tell him what I said, too.” “Three nice jobs I got,” scowled Earl. “Sass the grocer, sass the tilor and sass the man at the box offce place a sheet of white paper on the oven shelf. If it turns dark brown immedi- he oven is too hot for any cook- f, when it is left in for about it becomes a golden brown. the oven is just the right heat for puff pastry and bread. To be suit- able for small cakes and short pastry it should turn light brown in four min- utes. If it should turn dark yellow, it will be right for large cakes, D AND CUFFS OF DARK FOX. WRAP WITH CHINCHILLA COLL Prettiness have gained in grace. and gives rhythm to each movement. American women as a whole look be pretty rather than chic. design too apparent, slippers that should be avoided. Wearing Use or Abuse Perfectly Groomed Woman May Use Every Type as Long as Appearance Makes One Cons- cious of None of Them — Chemical Effect on Skin Re- quires Attention. One of the most important things & modern beautician is taught at a scien- | tific beauty school is the difference be- | tween the use and abuse of cosmetics. If you had an opportunity to attend | such a school you would learn that these | much-maligned aids to beauty—if they are properly used—are sanctioned by the | highest authorities. The perfectly | groomed woman may use every type of | cosmetic as long as her appearance }ulua you conscious of none of them. | In the modern beauty school you learn to use cosmetics with care as 5| the ingredients. The chemical effect upon the skin and the right shade tn| use are both important, points to study. The substances which enter into the rouges used for make-up contain heavy metals such as iron, silica, carmine or some aniline chemical. , They do not as a rule produce any harmful effect Those whose skins are affected by ani- line dyes, however, should be sure that mineral ground colors have been used for coloring matter. ‘The modern woman buys sometimes three kinds of rouge, as she buys three kinds of powder. Because the sun’s rays make colors ar darker, she selects | Dance dresses are a delight this Winter. . C, DECEMBER 1, TOP—EVENING ENSEMBLE OF METAL CLOTH WITH COLLAR BOTTOM—BLUE VELVET EVENING AR. VS. Chic. With longer skirts they The lovely sweeping line in the back adds height far better in the daytime than they do in the evening, for the reason that many of them make no effort to too many flowers, beaded bags with too fancy—all contribute to give the effect One wants to be feminine and appealing, illusion of being trimmed like a Christmas tree. HELEN . YDEN. but in no way to give the DR of Cosmetics you should select a more vivid rouge and lipstick. You learn that the best rouge for the skin is the cream rouge. It is usually ?‘fide with a base of paraffin or mineral elly. The best type of rouge for sports is built on the vanishing cream with which a suitable amount of coloring matter has been dissolved in alcohol. This makes a transparent covering which is not affected by moisture, but which can be removed with soap and water. In making up the beautician learns to apply the rouge to round faces, put- ting the apex of the triangle near the nose and to touch the chin with rouge, providing it is a pretty chin. If you have a long, thin face, rouge should be applied near the temple and ears. No matter what the shape of your face may be, remember that color too vividly added to your cheeks takes something away from the coloring of your eyes and Ups. Cream of Tomato Soup One quart tomatoes, one-quarter tea- spoonful soda, four tablespoonfuls but- ter, four tablespoonfuls flour, one quart milk, one tablespoonful salt, one-half teaspoonful pepper. Stew tomatoes slowly one-half hour. In the meantime melt butter, stir in flour and cook over low flame, adding milk slowly; add soda; stir into sauce and serve immediately. Marks on Wood. Marks caused with hot plates or hot water jugs, etc., on polished tables may be removed by the following_ applica- tion: Mix a tiny pinch of salt with a iittle olive oil and rub into affected parts. If the mark doesn't disappear with the first application, allow the mix. the lighter s] r her daytime wear. Different tones are given to colors by | artificial lights and so for evening wear | ture to remain on, and in a few hours’ time apply the sait and ofl again, rub- bing with a circular movement, 1929—PART THREERE. 2 | 9 ‘Radical New Fashions Appear to Advantage in Evening Clothes THE DRESS OF PRINTED LAME AT THE LEFT HAS CIRCULAR FLOUNCE AND A LOOPED PANEL | ATTACHED BY SHIRRINGS AT THE HIP. THE SKIRT OF THE DANCE DRESS. AT THE RIGHT IS MADE UP OF TIERS OF TULLE RUFFLES LONGER AT BACK THAN FRONT. THE BODICE IS DEC- ORATED WITH' RHINESTONES AND JEWELED S HOULDER STRAPS. BY MARY MARSHALL. HERE always are, always have been and doubtless always will be women with whom smartness comes before becomingness in dress, and there always are, al- ways have been and doubtless always will be women with whom becomingness is of prime importance. To be sure, the quality that some women consider as more essential than becomingness is not always called smartness, but it always exists when women take thought of the appearance of their dress. ‘When you analyze the case of smart- ness versus becomingness you will see that the motives behind the desire, first of all, to wear clothes that are becom- ing differ from the motives behind the desire to wear clothes that are primarily becoming. The difference is really a temperamental one. The woman who ‘wants becoming clothes even though she may have to sacrifice a little smartness to this end is an individualist; she wants admiration for what she is rather than for what she knows about fashions. The Wwoman who is bent on being smart likes to keep abreast of current trends, she wants to be attractive, but not at the When Everything About the House Goes Wrong and Husband Develops Grouch, She Takes Her Old Job and Establishes New Sys- tem—Home Is in Capable Hands. BY HELI ‘WELSHIMER. Sally Burnham knew that her hus- band was disgusted with life. The toast was too hard, the eggs were too soft and the morning paper hadn't arrived. Moreover, the furnace smoked and the twins had practiced a duet all night. “You forgot to put the peach mar- malade on the table,” the master of King mignt. Teming. the lofd. Righ ex- king t reming lor ex- ecu!lmur that a head or two had neglected to fall. “We're out of it,” Sally answered. “It does cover a multitude of burned places on the toast, though. I'll get some this mornin: ' She was too tired to_care what he thought. Harry threw down his napkin, upset his coffee cup and arose. “It seems to me you might take your house- keeping little more seriously. All you have do is look after a pair wins and cook a couple of Wife Suggests Better Plan expense of being up to date. She is def- initely a wom&n of her own times. ‘Women who dress most successfully are always women who strike a com- promise. They realize the importance of conforming to the prevailing ideas of smartness, but they keep in mind the importance of selecting clothes that are most_suitable and -becoming to them- selves as individuals. * ok ok K UITE apart from one's natural in- clinations in this matter, there are some women whose forms and fea« tures are such that they appear to best advantage in clothes that are essential- ly smart, while there are other women who pale into insignificance or look commonplace when they follow too closely the demands of smartness. This is especially true of hats. Shape of head, formation of features, coloring, facial expression even are all conoerned, and this season the brimless, closely fitted hat showing considerable forehead is undoubtedly smart, but is just as un- doubtedly trying to many women, On the other hand, there are good- looking hats somewhat less striking in their smartness that are much better do that isn't worth her salt! You don’t. care about anything any more or how the place looks. Oh, helll” “It's & lot warmer there than it is here, I bet,” his wife answered, still cheerfully, pulling a sweater closer around her shoulders, Her husband’s wrath leaped up again. “You don't curl your hair and my socks aren’t mended, and look at the dust on that buffet! Just look, I tell you! What do you do with your time? Why don't you put some system .into your work?" “This is the way they lived happily ever after,” Sally announced to the percolator after her husband had gone. “I look like a rag doll and I have about as much punch as pink lemonade. But this is where I stop!” Fortunately Sally’s former position in a business office was obtainable, so- she Rmceeded to get it back. Then: she ired a capable woman to care for the twins and the hqusework. “But a woman's place.is in, the home,” Harry said, as though he had discovered a startling new truth. » Then Sally opened up. “Not if“a woman can't make a success of that home,” she said. “I'm doing the thing for which I'm fitted now. I'm getting back my enthusiasm and I'm ready to play once in & while instead of’| flopping down like & kitchen mop! Besides, the ho\u?‘nd the twins are in capable hands. 1t's a better business arrangement all around, and I thank you for suggesting it, Harry!" He admitted that it was much bet- ter, and gradually came to believe that | he was responsible for the new order. And, in part, he was. The camel is the only Clothes Shéuld Be Smart, but They Must Also Be Becoming and Suitable for Individual Persons—Most Effective Results Obtained by Striking a Compromise in Selections — Attention Should Be Paid to Hats, Which Must Conform to Shape of Head and Forma- tion of Features—Evening and Street Dresses of Season. selections for the woman who has not the qualifications needed to wear severe hats. Some sort of brim always adds to the becomingness of a hat, because 1t casts a half tone above the eyes that :omnl the coloring and lines of the ace. In evening dress the question of color becomingness is not such a dif- ficult one for most women as it was in the days when most well-bred women in this country looked askance at the use of make-up. The list of colors that one cannot wear to advantage is greatly diminished, if not reduced to & zero, when one is willing to make use of powder, rouge and possibly lipstick, and knows how to do so cleverly. * ok kX N street dress, careful make-up can do something, but not so much. For one thing there is a growing belief among well-bred women in this country that obvious make-up is in rather bad taste for the strcet. Besides, even skillful make-up cannot entirely camou- flage the natural tones of the skin when wind and cold air have full play, The woman whose skin takes on a purplish, rose tint in cold weather looks far bet- ter in blue or green than she does in red’ or dahlia, though any of these purplish or reddish tones might be truly beccming under the more favorable lights and in the more temperate at- mosphere of her own or a friend’s home in the evening. ‘There are some women in their in- sistence on becomingness first who hesitate at wearing bare arms and low- cut evening gowns unless their arms and shoulders are strikingly beautiful. This is, of course, going too far. On the other hand, the woman with promi- nent shoulder blades and a poorly de- veloped back should not wear one of the extremely low-backed evening gowns merely for the sake of smartness. The fashion world 1s so full of such a variety of necklines that there is no reason why any one should not always appear to advantage in conventional evening dress. There are evening wns cut ry.r‘ley high at the front and ow at the k, others fairly high at the back and rather low in front, dresses with low necks and drapery to hide {ll proportioned arms, and sleeve- less dresses fairly high at back and front. * Rk % THE very long evening gown is un- doubtedly the last word in smart- ness, but there.is wide variety in the way the long skirts are treated and the older woman should bear in mind tnat while a simply draped long skirt adds charm and dignity to her figure the skirt with ruffies and puffs, be as it may be to the slender young figure, is entirely unbecoming to the older woman. In choosing skirt length of your street clothes bear in mind that the Ion{.‘llender skirt gives an appearance of height to short figures that adds to smartness as well as omingness. On the other hand, the woman who feels that she is a little too tall does well to retain fairly short skirts as long as fashion permits—not of course, the knee-length skirts, which are quite out of the picture and never were becoming Any woman who can't animal that.lms never bed wild *u. \to most women. “Copyrisht, 1920