Evening Star Newspaper, September 22, 1929, Page 55

Longer, MR AW i NN NN Busy Women- Stress . . Hod the Suit in All Their Daytime Clothes, Changing From Tweed or Jersey to Satin - Crepe or Velvet in Aft- . % ernoon—Long, Sweep- Z ing Gowns Are Chosen s for Formal Evening Wear. RY HELEN DRYDEN. OT only the woman tied to an office from 9 to 5 but also the woman whose days ape dated . with club meetings, organiza- tion work and social gatherings often finds that she has little time to spend shopping. Yet she must always present a well dressed appearance to the world. Some of these busy women stress the suit in all their daytime clothes, chang- ing the tweed or jersey suit for one of satin crepe or possibly velvet in the afternoon, achieving the feminine note ‘with a soft blouse of eggshell, beige or one of the vivid contrasting colors. Others prefer a dress on all occasions worn with matching or contrasting coat. In all costumes the walstline is defi- nitely higher, either raised to normal or to the top of the hips, Molyneux is the only French couturier retaining the low waistline. Skirts have dropped in afternoon dresses sometimes from four to five inches and in evening dresses to the ankles, the irregular line prevail- ing but not necessarily dipping in the back only. The result is that we are all going to look talier and more | slender. For general wear dresses are made of the new light woolens, crepes, jerseys and lightweight tweeds in enchanting colorings. NN ok Xk X SILK erepe and crepe satin are some- times molded in princess lines, the new waistline obtained by tuckings, puckerings or shirrings. Tiers, flounces, godets and pleats achieve the fullness. always restrained and always kept well to the lower part of the skirt, some- times breaking forth only at the side, again directly in the front or across the c N Q NN N Black is always the first choice for the Sunday night type of dress, with brown a close second, but the new darle green, garnet red and bright blue also smart. There is a most sophisti- cated and subtle eggplant red or prune which would be a clever choice for a lustrous satin gown appropriate for Sunday night or informal restaurant and theater wear. Such dresses have the long, intricately seamed or draped skirts, smooth-fitting hips and molded OF FELT. NN A N N __THE SUNDAY NN AN MR M SN AN \\\\\\\\\\\\ N \ bodice of the regulation evening gown -~ — with long sleeves. A velvet wrap, more protecting if long, smarter if short, wishout fur or | worn with a fur animal, could serve for | both this gown and the formal evening | frock. be at least thre inches below the knees, the, tuck-in blouses is appropriate Even the blouses of the novelty knit fabrics are tucked in, although their bias hip bands make it possible to wear them on the outside. “Unlined jackets, the Winter edition | outlined in fur, in chiffons and metal cloths, can be utilized to slip over the sleeveiess, decollete gown and make of it a dinner costume. And metal cloths, supple and soft, in colorful, conservative . patterning, make effective tunics to wear with the skirt of the formal ensemble, particularly in velvet. The velvet or satin ribbon hat of the cap type, softly grlped around the face, is the right at. For formal evening affairs—and many of these fall to the lot of the busy ‘woman—there the long, sweeping gowns, swirling about the ankles in N front as well as in back. They may be of princess molding or frankly belted at the normal waistline, in: tnn! ‘velvet, panne satin, chiffon or metal fabric, The severer sort of evening dre: ple as the low-back sports dresses, only much lengthened—may be made of lustrous satin, moire or a . supple lame. ‘Black is always good and may be brightened, as Lanvin does, by a bow with trailing ends or a flower garniture in bright green, lemon. or electric blue. Off-white and clear tel shades will be smart for evening wear. S 'HE busy woman should look on the ensemble as a boon in her efforts to be well dressed. clothes to a definite color scheme she will be able to interchange the various factors, and thus achieve a wider ety than would otherwise be possi- ble. The suit is the starting point. It will | 1§W coats keepy probably be of tweed, for tweed is ap- frnprllte for business and may be worn | jor_sports. i Brown and beige tweeds .are the favorite choice, although if color | scheme is not becoming—as it is not with gray hair—there are soft greens blended with eggshell and gray, or the | black and white gombination. If you | are going to use fhis suit for town, or intend to wear it later under a fur coat, | the finger-tip jacket is the best cholce, | although the full-length coat gives you the opportunity of wearing it as a top coat. If you add a top coat, it should | be of a harminizing tweed, a straight- line model, loose from the shoulders, probably belted, and collared in caracul, nutria or wolf. ‘With the hip-yoke skirt, which will Tact and Diplomacy Pay Two Grandmothers Differ in Methods; and One Is Able to Get Re- sults With Johnny— One. BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. JOHNNY had two grandmas. Sometimes he would go to visit Grandma Smith—sometimes Grandma Jones, With one he was very, very good. With the other he was horrid. Grandma Jones, with whom he was z:md. had prided herself on the way e had managed her children. And her friends and neighbors, knowing what success she had had, were simply thunderstruck when she couldn't do anything in the-way of disciplining her five-year-old grandson. ‘When she spoke in the old days every one of her children had jumped to at- tention. “They toed the mark, I can tell you,” she was very fond of remind- ing those who had f« tten. “It shows what children are coming to these days. ‘That ehll;i‘ dn:ln't know what obedience eans. It's disgraceful.” -And yet when she visited her dl%l:- ter-in-law she had to admit t Johnny was a pretty well behaved little boy. What surprised her still more was that he ‘paid more attention to her, too, as long as his mother was in the house. But let his- mother go out for an afternoon and leave him to the juris- diction of Grandma Jones, the old war- fare began all over again. He simply + wouldn't do a thing she told him. Now Grandma Smith was quite the opposite—no disciplinarian whatever, a rather mild, easy-going sort of person, who treated Johnny like a distinguished ruest. bnny visited her he was By keeping all her | A jersey jumper, or one of the new, handknit sweaters will be | appropsiate for sports acgasions. This | may be in accent. color, such as capucine | to_wear with a brown suit. |~ Por a regulation sports costume may choose & hlouse of jersey, nubbed {and fleck#d t6 Took like iweed. These | blouses show a gay combination of color—which should be repeated in scarf and beret. | _For town you will want a crepe blouse, lighter in tone than the suit | skirt, and this may be matched to-a | slightly flared skirt of crepe, to give the | effect of a one-piece silk crepe dress. ‘You;will need at least oné dressy blouse of satin or crepe satin in a light tone. ‘This, may be off-white or-a pale yellow to wear With brown; or a gray-green for the green tweed, or a vivid contrast. R A tan felt hat of Descat origin with upturned front, a long side brim laid in a pleat, and a short, snug-fiit- ting back brim will give you a correct | town hat to interchange with the sports | beret. * If there is time for afternoon tea in | your busy day, you may need a more | formal-ccat to wear with your silk and light wool dresse: ‘This may be a velvety woolen, duvetyn, suede cloth or broadcloth, in black, bro | or green. It may flare slightly from flounces or tiers Which should be placed extremely low if you must aim for a | slender. silhouette, or higher 4f nature | has kept you slim. A few of to the s Afternoon yraps are fur trimmed, with black broadtail, fox or lynx, ou wisht to keep wvan all-black effe or with brown fur such as beaver, caracul or mink. Black coats with brown fur are in good style. The pouch or shawl col- lar, which can be arranged to frame the face, is appealing, especially far the coat that must be worn in the evening as well as in the afternoon, - Sleeves on afternoon coats will have barrel cuffs or bands of fur trimmii twining snake fashion, but kept well below the elbow if they are not to wear shaggy too soon. . A turban with upturned b&r faced in felt or galyak, with the velvet draj to give the flattering width at the sides, or with a velvet bow tied at one-side, will be the right hat. (Copyright. 1929.) ou she could get it for him. She never rea'ly makes him do anything he doesn't want. He's always an hour laté getting to bed, and she caters to his appetite as though he was the King of England.” Johnny planted his feet firmly one ith a neighbor child "he didn’ won't go. You're not my boss! Yes, I am, young man, when you are here. And I heard your mother tell you you had to mind me the same as you did her. Now march off."” “I won't!” he repeated doggedly. “You're not my boss.” ‘There, you had it! ‘Theoretically Grandma Jones was all right, but there was a great big leak in her theory. IL takes a long time for a child to respect any authority outside that of his parents. Grandma Smith had the right idea. She was making him her friend and ally and got as near to obedience as a ndma can get through his love for her. In her cuiet way she was getting | far better results than the other. One grandmother had learned that tact and diplomacy pay well, even-when applied to children. ‘The role of grandma is never easy. I am very, very sorry for the Grandma Joneses. But it seems that éne genera- tion of absolute obedience is all that nature arranges for. The next choice we have, we who face this revolt of the thiré generation, is patience—and tact. o Neckline: Troubles. ‘The neckline is always a problem. Always has been, always will be. Perhaps it has troubled us less than ' usual in the last few years, for our| frocks have been finished at the neck | when we received them—and save for the addition of a becoming. choker or necklace there was little we could do. But now, with the chance of wearing saparate collars, they will be &s trouble- | o day and said to Grandma Jones when | she was trying to make him go over and | Role Is Never Easy‘l |and is “it” that lhcg!‘L f | them why she is like this flowe! NNARNANANAY NN %\\\\\“ \;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\l\\ N X W A RO NN \ \ 7 e Ry NN NN NSNRRAY CUERANNANNY /OINNUANANNUEUNENNNANN RN NI MINANANINANIRRRNNY ASNRAN AN D SCARF. THE JUMPE JIVE A YOKE EFFECT. STAR., WASHINGTO THE DRESS. OF LIGHT-WEIGHT TWEED OR WOOL CREPE, IN GARNET RED, SHOWN AT THE LEFT, MAY BE MATCHED TO A WOOLEN COAT LINED WITH THE DRESS MATERIAL. THE BOLERO HAS A FLAT COLLAR OF EGGSHELL-COLORED SATIN. THE RED FELT HAT HAS A BAND OF BLACK GALYAK MATCHING THE BROAD BAND ON TH JERSEY OFFICE DRESS AT THE RIGHT IS TUCKED TO YELLOW LEATHER, AND THE BONNET-SHAPED HAT 1S OF THE JERSEY WITH TURN-BACK BRIM OF THE BROWN THE BELT IS OF ARAANAN MUY NN ANRALARIRRY S = N N NS N AN | pgic., SEPTEMBER Slenderer Lines Appear in Dre 22, 1929=-PART 3 S y THE SOPHISTICATED EVENING GOWN OF BLACK VELVET AT THE LEFT HAS JABOT DRAPERY AT BOTH SIDES, RIPPLING TO THE FLOOR IN ONE LONG POINT TO GIVE AN IRREGULAR HEM- « LINE. THE MOLDED BODICE SHOWS THE NEW HIGHER WAISTLINE. THE LON! G E ING WRAP * WHICH COVERS THE GOWN IS ALSO OF BLACK TRANSPARENT VELVET LINED WITH CHIFFON WHICH MAY MATCH ANOTHER EVENING GOWN, WITH WHICH THE SAME WRAP MAY BE WORN. SLIPPERS OF BLACK MOIRE, AND SHEER, FLESH-COLORED SILK STOCKINGS SHOULD BE WORN. + Person With Highly Developed Ego Be- lieves That She. Must Always Be a Personage Friends. ; £ BY ALLENE SUMNER. ORIS loves rsonal - games—like going out of the rdom while some one decides what kind of an animal or flower some one else is like, Now this might be & dangerous ‘game 10 piay in some crowds, fact, right in Doris’ | own crowd it's not a suggestion always brings out ecstatic jubilance | from all the members, for some of them don't get off as well as Doris. But Doris has put over her dramatic | stellar heroine idea that she is a per- ' sonage, and must have all the dra-! matic gestures due her. | Doris knows when she plays the game | always_choose | ‘when she asks a tiger 11y for her a) A ve ' e apple pie, of course. “It's no wonder," snorted Grandma “She'd hand him the moon i1 | Queen Elizabeth's some as the stifly ruffed, time. chosen they'll say “because she's in the Eyesof Her that|- Keén for Dramatic Effect or “because she's regal” or “because she's distinctive,” or “becausé she’s so- phisticated.” v : Two of us were giggling the other night over Doris’ inadvertent reference to the fact that she had copies of all the love letters she ever wrote. Doris regales us with her varfus foves and the various tragedies of her broken She has heart. How she has suffered! Simple Business Costumes. 7THE woman Who goes fo business each day should give a great deal of time and thought to the selection of her wardrobe. To have just the right things problem. To solve this she should never buy hurriedly, but should care- fully think out just what is needed for daytime wear for her specific work, and what is needed for her social life., , ‘ She should -have-at least three dresses for business. By wearing them on alternate days, caring for them as to pressing and cleaning, she can look well from Fall till- Sprin =+ It seems hardly. necessary to ness. Gredkest g. E add that such dresses should be of ex- treme simplicity, but that dees not mean .that they have to sacrifice smart- One should never be in any way dressed up while in an office. Noth- ing could be in worse taste than to go to work in last season’s velvet after- noon dress. Very little jewelry should be worn—but in her simple dress or suit the business woman should take as much interest in herself as when rty. She will feel better,, therefore work better. . One of the mistakes & woman can make is to go to business lockln&da'dy. HELEN DRYDEN. told us of the handsome twin soul she met en route to Europe once, how they | had to past because of various obstacles, | how she Ianguished broken-hearted in | her pension, and how one day when she had reached the breaking point a boy | appeared . with “a cloud of mimosa” | sent by him, proving the subtle kinship of their souls. \ ““Imagine - anything being real and really gettifg you when you can have : an eye and ear to the dramatic effect,” said Ruth, who giggled' with me as; | Doris told of her love letters too. .beau- : | tiful te be wasted. < i Y “And yet somehow we all find our- and the right number of them is a "y =, LAR OF THE COAT TONING WITH GRAY SATIN BLOUSE AND GRAY FELT'HAT WORN WITH THE SUIT. THE FORMAL ENSEMBLE IN THE CENTER 18 OF BLACK VELVET DOTTED IN YELLOW. THE BLOUSE HAS A COLLAR OF YELLOW LINEN. COLLAR, CUFFS selves playing her game,” laughed Ruth. especially disappointed because she wasn't home, but I found myself leaving 'her a note beginning, ‘Dear Golden Girl,’ because Doris expects that. “I had once said something about liking to see her in copperish clothes which made her, with her golden skin and eyes and hairy look like a geid image, and she has never forgotten, and always lives ug to it.” My only objection to thoss people with a dramatic ego is when they ex- ploit the rest of humanity to their own ends. Do you remember the heroine of ‘All Kneeling”? Cls.tabel or Christine, I think her name was. Christabel basked in the legend that she was “so sweet, so good, so spiritual.” She und any one and every one into th’e al:t 50 long as her role was main- taine she drove the litile dressmaker who was ‘making her wedding lingerie into hys- teria- because the tucks weren't fine enough, and in the presence of her flance she sweetly invited her and her old mother to her wedding and told her how “perfectly precious” the trousseau was. .Mber all, :e have an ldn}l{ ;7{ |ml{ which we fight to preserve. t isn' a l’;nnl\: e‘mmen of ourselves as Duse or Bernhardt, it's something else, The battle is nojto let it go too far. & “I went out to see her the other night. | I didn't especially want to, and I wasn't | In the privacy of her own boudoir | Boiled Dressing nice with tomato elly, fish salads and fresh green salad herbs. and with a bit of onion or cress makes a delicious fllling for'sandwiches. It may also be used on bread or rolls when a butter boycott has been called. Beat two eggs together, add a tiny pinch of salt, two tablespoons of sugar; half a seant teaspoon of ground mustard and half a cup of milk. Mix well and then stir in a quarter of a cup of vinegar. Cook the mixture until it thickens, taking care to stir it constantly to prevent curdling. Upon removing from the fire let ‘it cool and then add a few drops of olive oil. a “naturally honest” man. falters under its own load. naturally honest. No one is protect the weaker and less shrewd honesty admirable and satisfying. ‘The child mirrors in his own behavior the experiences of the race, for hones has no meaning and very little satis- faction for the small child. If he wants a toy and is stronger or more clever than his brother or companion he makes away with it. It may not be a toy. but a fow pennies which he has learned will buy desirable objects or it may be for- bidden food, but if he can get them by stealth his conscience troubles him very little. It is futile to tell tiny children that a toy belongs to “some one” and ex- pect them to release it because of that. Their sense of property rights is very weak and their acquisitiveness very strong. If the toy is in their own of the law. Once we have conceded that the child is not naturally honest, but has to be taught laboriously and patiently what of another (by being given things that are his very own in order to learn the mother must go even farther in her understanding_of the many motives whick: may influence an older child to take what does not belong to him. One of the foremost motives is a de- clothes, toys or food which puts him on an equal plane with the children with whom he associates. It may be just the burning desire to treat his com- panions to an ice cream cone, as others do. It may be the desire to have a biue handkerchief sticking up in his blouse pocket, just like Frank's. Whatever the | desire, he achieves it by stealth, and if money is left temptingly about by par- ents or teacher the child cannot be | blamed if he yields to the temptation. various ways. She may be so humili- child with the feeling that this one mis- step has marked him as a thief for life. To struggle from under this load is ton much for most children and they suc- cumb to the reputation that is forced upon them. Another parent may feel 30 helpless to act wisely that she de- termines to ignore the situation, thus leaving the child free to make more of his desires come true. One should neither over-emphasize the act nor_ignore it. One should view it as a rather commonplace step in child development, but one which. indicates that the child is in some way unhappily adjusted to his home or his companions. His own parents must determine if he Is being compelled to steal in order to right a condition that for him is dis- satisfying. 2 Any sort of stealing, however trivial. leads us directly to the subject of money and allowances for children, for it 13 lack of money or the material sions which money can buy that is the outstanding motive for early stealing. A girl of 19 admits that she has never had an allowance because, though her narents can afford it. they just give it to her when she asks forit. Then they are often short of change or minimize her needs and she is driven to petty thiev- ing from her friends, or what is quite as ‘eprehensible, to borrowing money which meaning of “mine and thine”), the! ‘The parent meets such a situation in | ated and shamed that she leaves the | ses for Work and | with accuracy. * Play Variety in Skirt Lengths This Season Leaves Much to Choice of Wearer — Fashion Dictates Only to the Woman Who Finds It : Acceptable—Silhouette Mor e Shapley Tend- | |ency to Flare. radical changes, but there is & wide range in the way that these chinges may be interpreted. Skirts are longer—but the individual woman may decide for herself whether she Wants to have hcr own skirts a bare three inches below the knees or de- cidedly longer. Waistlines tend to be higher—but there is still good precedent for the slightly longer waistline which many more mature women find more becom- ing than the old normal. The silhouette is more shapely, with bodice line more closely moided, the line of the hips closely defined and skirts are inclined to flare, but whether these tendencies are to be merely suggested or shown in their more pronounced forms every woman may decide for herself. e THOSE who expected that the passing of the severely straight silhouette would be of advantage to the girl with a plump figure and would bring to an end the era of dieting, have, of course, been disappointed. Fashion still insists on slender contours, even though she does show a curve here and there. Slenderncss is quite as much a char- acteristic of the present mode as of the one just past, and compared with the new slenderness the old slim lines will soon seem thick and clumsy. To be sure skirts are often bouffant and flaring, but the flare and the bouffancy are invariably placed well below the hips, which are closely outlined by shaped yoke or cleverly arranged drapery. Materials chosen for the new clothes are all of the supple sort. Velvet, tweed, jersey, satin and broadcloth, as well as georgete, chiffon, silk crepe and net, are pliant enough to be coaxed into soft folds. When yokes, pleats and applications of material are used dress- makers cleverly cut awag superfluous thickness that might produce an effect of bulkiness. Hemlines are varied and to some ex- tent they take their shapes from the hour of the day -when they are to be worn. For sports and street wear the lower line of the skirt is almost invariably straight and when godet | are introduced to give | care must be taken to “hang BY MARY MARSHALL. ASHION dictates this season only to the woman who wants to be dictated to. There are, it is true, the skirt * % * | AFTERNOON dresses, especially for The following boiled dressing is very |~ | ously avoided. members of their tribe one had to make | naturally honest. | | gift horse in the mouth—and yet if { binding of leather. sire to possess something, either money, | Uie envelope sort are made with sufi- she fails to return. Upon the subject of formal occasions. mi uneven sort. or may dip definitely down- ward at the back. But the effect of mere untidiness that was characteristic of many of the dipping or uneven hemlines last Summer has been studi- ‘There must be definite | form and design about skirt unevenness this season. Evening gowns may dip at the back, at one side, or at both, or they may be long all around. There are simple danee frocks with fairly short straight skirts, but these are appropriate for informal wear, and designed, of course, for the young and slender. Coats and overblouses or tunics take their cues from the line of the skirt, (Copyright. 1929.) Your Baby and Mine BY MYRTLE MEYER ELDRED. We often hear & person alluded to as | for money, even from the age of 5 years, In common |there is much muddle-headed thinking with a good many statements whose |by parents. veracity won't bear scrutiny this one | ences so color their attitude that they Their own early experi- do not think wisely or clearly about it. It is & virtue which But they should be compelled to face | must be taught by precept and example. | the question and make some change ine. | Undoubtedly this virtue grew out of their present attitude if they discover necessity, for the wise ones of the tribe ' that because of it the child is driven to discovered very early that in order to steal. Keep in mind that the child isn't He needs from the day he is given his first toy to be taugnt what it means to have possession of it. and by the respect we show the child's early possessions we teach him to show respect for those of others. Then by our wise handling of his money allow- ance we teach him thrift, economy and honesty. Truly a large order and one that can't be filled in a day. Popular Handbags Simple, But Smart Perhaps you should never look & you present your sister or your aunt, hands possession is to them all points ' your mother or your daughter with one of the new bags, the chances are that after she has given one appraising glance at the outside she will look in- it means to keep hands off the property ' side to examine the lining, the mirror, the coin purse and the various pockets and flaps. Almost all of the new bags are lined with matching silk, and the flaps and pockets are often finished with a narrow Even flat bags of cient breadth within so that they will not bulge when carrying the usual col- | lection of small accessories. Handbags are among the most in- teresting details of Autumn dress. The | most noticeable thing about them is that they are simple, serviceable, prac- tical and very smart. e There are, of course, bags of beads and velvet, chiffon and embroidery for evening and elaborate afternoon. But for daytime wear there are all sorts of leather bags, a color and kind to match every suit and frock and coat in any- body’s wardrobe. % The best thing about these smart bags is that one may used with - several frocks. They are made of good leather, in lovely but substantial shades of every color, browns from lightest to darkest, through all ranges of tan andf beige, buff and ecru; greens and hlq.- and maroons, or any color to go wi any fabric. ‘There are pouch bags of leather, willy meta] frames or leather-covered frames or composition frames. There are en- velopa bags with openings in rather un- expected places, little flaps that hook over at the bottom to secure the open- ing or mg-zagged side fiaps or or four flaps all following the same un- usual outline of angles or curves. There are capacious pockets in the handbags of the day, for even the slim, flat envelopes are so made that they have an unexpected holding umdty. Clasps and fastenings are inf ting in the new handbags. They are made of composition in all colors and of metal. Buttons, leather covered or of composition, are used to hold some of the bags shut. Tomato Jelly Make tiny moulds of tomato jelly, highly seasoned. Serve each on one lettuce leaf, with a small heart leaf beside it containing a teaspoon of | a fifld'l need Russian dressing.