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'mwm SURPLICE COLLAR OF N FROCK PLEATED ou in fgured silk copled for you in . If you do, you will convince that you lack appreciation of the The essential differences between models suitable for plain materials and red materials those adapted to should be borne in mind by the woman who makes her own clothes. If you work from patterns, you should select the patterns with these differences well in mind. Pigured materials call for a pattern with as few plecings as possible, Darts, gores, tucks, incrustations and similar manipulations of the material usually detract from the smart appearance of figured materials, especially materials showing large figures. on lends itself well to figured material usually would be lacking in character for the plain material, which depends to a cons! ble extent on tucks, gores and applicctions for necessary elabora- tion. ‘Wide pleating is seldom practical for the figured material, unless the pattern is quite small, but fine pleats may often be used to advantage. Attractive results may often be gained by using figured material in combina- tion with plain material, which should, however, -be an exact match of some, color introduced in the figured mate- rial. The introduction of a color tone not included in the figured material al- most always produces an effect of con- fusion. (Capyright, 1920.) My Neighbor Says: To test rubbers before putting them on jars when preserving, stretch and bend them. Keep them for at least ten minutes in boiling water. Each rnm in a family should haye at least a pint of milk a day. either in their cooking of to drink. It is also necessary to have at least two green vegetables a day. ‘These may be plain, in the form of salad or creamed, in order to use your necessary milk. ‘To set colors in ginghams and other colored cotton materials use a solution of boiling hot wa- ter and four ounces of pulverized e other hand, the pattern that | Ul BRIDGE TALKS BY MRS. JOHN MUNCE, JR. The next hids to be discussed are the following bids of second hand after dealer bids one no trump. If second hand holds s solid suit with sufficient side strength to probably go game, with the normal expectancy from his part- ner, then he should bid two of that sult. If holding a solid suit and no side strength, he should pass. Experience has shown that you lose ten times to one you win, in bidding a suit second hand without side strength, over no imp. WI?h a trick over the requirements for an mmlnl no trump, second hand should double. A good rule to follow is this: If your hand with the two expected tricks from your partner is strong enough to go game, then bid two of your own suit. ‘This question of bidtgng or mh:g.: solid suit after a no trump generally understood it should be, and the followh:a fl-mp]eu are worthy of your close attention. 'l'yhp score is love all, dealer bids one no trump, and second hand holds the following: ades—Ace, king, queen, 7-spot, B-spot 3-8pot. ‘What should he bid? While he has a long solid suit, he could-not to go game, even if his partner gave the two tricks expected, so he would pass. Now with an_adverse score, he would bid two spades unhesitatingly, as a defensive I‘:m.ln - 55 ek low ano A !n’gh{h!’olwm l: love all. Dealer bids one no trump, and second hand holds the following cards: Spades—Ace, king, aueen, 7-spot, B-spot nd S-spot. ‘With this_holding two spades should ueen. t | be bid, as the strength of the hand is {in a major sult, and it only takes four | tricks in this suit to go game. The score is love all, or nothing for either side, dealer bids one no trump, and- the following is held by second hand: alum to a pound of . Exe periment with a small piece first. A can of chicken and a can of vegetable soup combined make a itricacies of designing, and if you in- #ist on such a perversion of the original model she may flatly refuse to comply. MOVIES AND MOVIE PEOPLE HOLLYWOOD, Calif., June 25.—Out . BEAUTY CHATS How to Be Pretty. Beauty is like genius in one way— it results from a capacity for taking infinite pains. At least, prettiness is, that is a long way to beauty! You have to be born with real beauty, any. wWoman can acquire prettiness, before, and will sagain, fl::vlnl e-d lovely eomplekxlan, -grained. Also sbout keep- the hands young and well mani- and about how to carry your- Very well, after that comes & of color in your clothes. A foundation color of beige if you're brunette, gray or blue if you're blonde. ‘Two other colors that are well in com- =, ks o P " BY MOLLIE MERRICK. bination, as contrast or trimming to the foundation eolor. Odd shades of , also. Choose a shade and make 4t your own, wear a little of it always— le will think of whenever see this llude.“;:r bll:k only you are strikingly or if you've or deep brown eyes. In this case, .-nkuc up your skin as white as pos- e. Use every legitimate means to out your skin, your hair, your eyes. I mnnttnshn,euhuvnm off, use a dation cream and then powder, a touch of color if your cheeks are too . Brush your eyebrows to shape and hr‘eg:ve ':l;: powder, and r{!“b your eyel your fingertips moistened with cream, to remove the and make them glossy looking. ver make up your face and not your meck, too; never go with a shiny skin. Shampoo your hair, or bave it done for you, and keep it well trimmed and always nicely brushed, sleek and glossy. If you've & bad . you must ‘wear some sort of girdle. They are not unhealthy as they are made these days. Never wear soiled or mussed clothes, or go without a fresh manicure nor fresh looking shoes and 3 ‘Henry :L—Yuur docm'-w v’\.ll .l‘flgy fecommend some one W v eolonic irrigations, or you may be lbl: delicious soup. And many of us attending opera have realized that the prima donna belonged either in the tank or the tap-dancing group if the truth be told. On_the other hand, Marion Davies can do a tap dance with the best of them and put over a slick 20-minute dancing act that has flair and sophis- tication plus. But she was once & dancer, and that accounts for it. Her singing is no worse than most dancers’ singin g And Marie Dressler's comedy is a priceless boon to thousands upon thou- sands who never get East and see only traveling shows not of the first water. The movie revue has another bid for our favor. It is put over without the smut which so often is indispensable to the legitimate variety of this form of entertainment. - Recalling their old films is quite the thing among actresses of suf- ficiently large income to indulge in this somewhat expensive form of vanity. ‘The early endeavors of Mary Pick- ford belong to Mary Pickford these days, and are released only when and as that lady wishes. In thi i t way to precipitate a first-rate family fight is to bribe one of the thoughtless males of the household to drag it forth in all its glory of leg-o’-mutton sleeves, bell skirts, Merry Widow sailors and other horrors of v{xone days. Showing these old films is due partly to the fad for collecting ancient eellu- Bpades—Jack Hearts—b-spo Diamonds—Ace. Clubs—Ace, king, queen, 8-spot, 4-spot. ‘What should be bid? As tRe strength of this hand is in a minor Suit, there is nothing to do put pass, as it is obvious that dealer is weak in the minor suits, and either his partner or he him- self will cmfis' bid to a major suit, in which this hind has no strength or defepse. With an adverse score and holding this hand you would bid two e score 18 Tove all, dealer has bid one no trump, and second hand holds thes following cards: and 7-spot. tand Sipot, o Saueen, 8 8-spot and n mon jueen and 2- Clubs-—Ace, Queen. 16- and 6-spot. What should second hand bid? Looking at this carefully, you will see that hand tains four honors in the club suit, hi cards in diamonds and hearts and a singleton in spades. ‘The bid therefore is three clubs. ‘The score is love all, dealer bids one no trump, and the following cards are held by second hand: -spot. ond ey Gbeen, Jack, 8- glubeeAce: ‘Giueen, 5-spot and 3-spo. What should be bid with this hold- ing? While the hand contains a strong suit, it is a minor suit, and with a love score it is always better bridge to pass. However, with an adverse score, you would bid two diamonds. Home in Good Taste BY SARA HILAND. ‘Way back in the hoop-skirted, long- skirted, long-haired days a dainty miss would sit at a square 0 and play a pretty little accompaniment for the singing of a ballad. 8he had many ieces, of course, but where to em was no problem to her, f always had a Canterbury (similar to the illustration) right at her side, where loida and entertaining one's friends with them at informal . Mrs. Stella sml?:ct has o:!e :‘rl ‘:he most fasci- nating col ions type. It in- cludes & Mabel Normand comedy which -|is among the first that favorite ever made. G (Copyright, 1929, by North paper Alliance. 5y BY EDNA KENT FORBES to get this same information by mak- ing inquiry at one of the hospitals. Miss M.—Consult & skin specialist sbout the pits in your skin. M. R. B—If you feel you must dye your hair, it would be best to have your doctor or a scalp specialist advise you, so you will know just what is the best. thing you can use. L3 Mrs. M.—The tonic will not increase the dryness of your hair even though it has alcohol in’it, because there is oil enough in the formula to u;zuw g effect. There is lq‘ tic to care for the condition re- sulting from the dandruff, and as an extra, the sulphur spreads over the scalp continuing ,the antiseptic treat- ment even after you have finished using the tonic, ‘A scalp specialist would be advisable if you knew of a good one, but mere beauty parior at- tention cannot cover the needs of a scalp that has really become diseased. Dandruff, or even what is called “scale,” Becomes an infected condition, not contagious to any extent except in some forms, but it should be osed and treated by some one who has studied scalp diseases, However, when it is not possible to get :fi":n:olm"l. the best thing I nic because it is healing, stimu- lating and purifying. Cantaloupe Salad. Cut the edible portions of two canta- loupes into small pleces. Sprinkle wi a little salt, paprika and cinllmoun’. Add oa:l ptint %ti gouble cream B‘umul; very stiff, to which one teaspoonful of dissolved gelatin has been added. Beat well until thoroughly mixed after add- ing one-fourth cupful of bread crumbs. When it begins to set turn into a melon- shaped mold, which has first been wet in cold water. Bury in ice and salt for at least two hours. When serve wipe the mold with & cloth wet in cold water and turn onto a bed of lettuce, surrounded with a very delicate this skilled know of is| pink mayonnaise, AUNT HET BY ROBERT QUILLEN. Y| all of the music was filed, Now we have more modern methods of taking care of sheet music, but this fascinating little piece of furniture is still in good taste in our homes. For magazines or newspapers there could be nothing handier, and it is ‘)ult the right height. Another thing in its favor Is that it is so different from the ordi- nary run of magazine stands. And did you ever find one with a drawer in the bottom? It is just the place for sewing, cards, smoking ac- cessories or ellnmnis, The finish of this plece is antique mahogany, thus making it a conserva- tive plece for the living room or library to combine with an easy chair and bridge lamp. (Covyright. 1929.) Carrot Pudding. Mix one cupful of ground raw carrots with one cupful of ground tart apples. one cupful of raisins, half a cupful (e brown sugar, half a cupful of molasses, one cupful of ground suet, half a tea- spoonful of baking soda, one tablespoon- ful of baking powder, one cupful of flour, half & cupful of bread crumbs, and half a teaspoonful each of nut- meg, cloves and cinnamon. Steam the pudding for two and one-half hours and serve it with a cream sauce made as follows: The sauce: Cream two tablespoonfuls to | of butter and six tablespoonfuls of pow- dered sugar, Fold in one cupful of whipped cream lightly. Flaver with one and one-half teaspoonfuls of vanilla and serve at once, (3 Eat Nitunl food these warm days: Milk or Salad and PARIS.—One of the innovations is Mirande's three-piece dinner and theater suit with separate skirt chiffon blouse with slashed back. The Sidewalks and short jacket of black jet beads and a_printed RITA. of Washington BY THORNTON FISHER. Mr. Chevy of Chevy Chase awakened early Sunday morning. So did Mrs. Chevy and the Chevy chips of the Chevy blocks, It ‘was, ‘mdeed. elegan 54" the side beckoned them. The ming car had ofled, THE ROADS WERE RAPIDLY FILLING - n freshly greased, ing to the hills and dells were rapidly filling with joyous motorists. Mrs. Chevy put up a lunch and poured cooling refreshments into the vacuwn bottles. With shouts of merriment, the Chevys climbed into the car. Soft, caressing breezes blew through the open windows. Squirrles darted across the roads in search of nuts. Some of them were not hanging on trees. For an hour Mr. Chevy guided the shining sedan through shaded and sunny highways. . The Chevy chips gxrll!d flumny and shouted greef passing passengers, ‘Then Chevy approached a narrow bridge. A sign near it said, “One Way Bridge.” Mr. Chevy didn’t understand, and con- tinued on. Half-way across another car approached, driven by a woman. Now, Mr, Chevy is a very proud man and has distinguished himself in num erous business deals. His stenographer and office help r him. He is a man with whom one must make an engagement a long time in advance. Mr. Chevy was not thinking of his ice in the community at the As the approaching car drew near and was about to pass him, the b dnevdar unuum {mm her wheel and , “Haven't you sense enougl ALE® Gheey “waa. Baboereraicd s T, was and shouted something in return about civil- ity and courtesy, but his words failed to reach ears they were con- b é‘;l ‘hoked ba Mr. evy choked back a couple of wisecracks he might have used. Soon, however, he forgot the incident and was again enjoying the sight of pastoral things. tented cows browsed in lush meadows. In a pasture on the right, a colt followed its mother. Cottonlike clouds studded the azure heights. It ‘was rather poetic, and—at this moment & horn was vigorously blown in the rear, A car sought to pass. Mr. Chevy always clung safely to the right side of the closely thgt he came perilously near, at times, tnln{ into ditches. At this time his two righi - e ‘The driver did, and, as passed, he discharged a e of unkind cuts to those who hugged the middle of the road. Mr. Chevy said something like, “So's your old ‘man,” but the speeding driver never heard the sharp rebuk: A second later another horn sent its shrill warning for Mr. Chevy to get over to the right and stay there. Mr. Chevy Wwas perspiring. Mrs. Cheyy asked him to pull aside and stop until she could pour a glass of water for Horace. Mr. Chevy stopped on & curve just as a car dashed around, going in the o) ite directios ‘This driver hurled a few words about people who have no more brains than to stop on curves. Once again he got under way, and half a mile up the ‘was b, an accident. Mr. CheVy didn't was an accident, but what else coul cause a score of cars to stand motion- less? He peered out of the window, and as far as his eyes could reach there were machines. ¢ 4 ow it WILKIN COFFE S E pect him and “yes” | bl d | see the rich men “Pull out of the line and creep ahead,” ventured Mrs. Chevy. “How can I do that?” asked Mr. Chevy, getting a bit sultry in the collar. “!'{n‘only gum |:= 'ha | Things that have till then shown th seems be an accident up gn mrmnt.": said u': vy, trying be amiable. “Accident, my eye!” exclaimed "éf, treek;:d 208 “Some nehea has stalled his engine. We ain't going to wait here all day. Gowan, step on her, buddy.” Mr. Che:y was not used to being called “buddy.” Perspiration was oozing through his shirt. Other horns began to sound, and Mr. Chevy decided to pull out of line and try to make it. He had scarcely disentangled himself -v;‘d reached the kf;;ilde of the road when a approached. In less than a split fraction of a second the other . | driver, who had the right of way, re- vealed that he was no gentleman. He asked Mr. Chevy this and that in terms of a determined and resolute nature. Mr. Chevy tried a soft answer, but it o:-}l‘i had the effect of infuriating the other, Other cars had followed Mr, Chevy's lead, and the road was now completely locked. _ Horns blew and drivers shouted. Finally a State motor cycle cop arrived, and, after looking through his book of rules, set himself to the task of unraveling the congestion. Forty-five alnlutu ln:'r-the caravans were oL eir respective ways. ‘The arrived hom. Mr, C] is a trifle turbed about his love of mankind. — g | Extravagance. ° Jim Croesus, like most plutocrats, has many costly shoes and hats, and m.[ has suits of clothes to burn, all pressed and tailored to a turn, and he has six or seven cars, and fine Havana-made cigars, and all the luxuries that dough n purchase in this vale of woe. And poor men, standing in the up their voices and complain. coin he spends for would build some lard upon our slats; the wealth he blows for costly shoes would furnish many widows stews; he has some 47 suits, and there are hosts of poor galoots whose rags can scarcely shield their forms from rain and hail and bitter storms.” It does seem sad till we reflect that industries would soon be wrecked if rich men falled to blow themselves for doodads on the mer- chants’ shelves. The busy tailor plies his goose in order that he may produce a sult for Croesus, who would be a figure brave and fine to see. We see the hatter bllthn’ldy skid around his shop —he makes a lid for Croesus, who de- mands some more, although he now has 34. The hatter's men put in full time becawse of this abnormal erime. They have their three square meals a day, and bedticks stuffed with fragrant hay and they put money in the bank be- cause of this offense so. rank. Croesus cars demand re| and hon- est workmen find it irs to make ‘wages every week instead of facing lamine bleak. The men who manu- facture shoes avoid discouragement and blues use Jim Croesus climbs the stairs and orders 27 pairs. I like to blow their unearned smackers as they fi‘lb helps the poorer :I.AI\NM) buy weekday roast, his Sun- y ey | ¥ne' thes g stovepipe hats | ol Today in Washington History BY DONALD A. CRAIG, June 25, 1861—Four foreign gentle- men, who have come from the South on passes, by way of Richmond and Manassas Junction, said today that there are now few secession troops in Richmond, the main body of the South- ern having left that clt;{ time ago, some rlnt toward Norfolk and others northward toward Man- assas and in the general direction of ‘Washinj . At Manassas Junction these genetlemen saw Confederate sol- diers grfl with axes and pikes, as though for lack of muskets. Ellls Hughes was arrested her:‘h}o day by Lieut. Keese of the Was ton Rifles on suspicion of being of the n forees. The conduct of the prisoner had been noticed by Lieut. Keese, who began to question him about his business, residence, etc. His replies are said to have been unsatis~ factory. Hqu-b— ‘2’ Summer garment—was worn through at the left shoulder in such a way as to excite suspicion that it had been done by the carrying of a musket., Upon searching him the military authorities found a number of papers, including memoranda and maps of various descriptions. The maps are reported to have shown the location of Union forces from Alexandria, Vi to Darnstown, Md. A number of me: oranda of distances between various points on military routes were also found on him. Hughes is said to be a very intelligent man, fully competent to perform such work, if he undertook it, as would be helpful to an army operating in a hostile country. He was taken before Justice Donn and committed to jail for trial. The maps and papers were delivered to Gen. Mansfield. Hughes is a brother of the former publisher of a paper in ‘Georgetown., President Lincoln, accompanied by Mrs. coln and the Hon. Schuyler Colfax, this afterncon attended the funeral of a private soldier who was buried with military honors at the Camp of the Garibaldi Guard. The obsequies, conducted in the foreign manner, were very impressive. Afterward President Lincoln re- viewed the 37th New York Regiment and was heartily cheered by the men. some Everyday Psychology BY DR. JESSE W. SPROWLS. Fifth Five Years. between 20 and 25 are .| The years usually the most eventful, so far s & possible career is concerned. This i 80 because then it is that the average person makes up his mind about him- self and his place in the social order. cm- selves as trends turn out to be decisions, often premature decisions. Most students emphasize the love life of this period. But it is merely a symp- tom of physical and mental maturing. The mind of any man or woman is & succession of maturings, first along one line, then along another. Maturing is bunched in the 20 to 25 year period. ‘There is more of it going on then than in any other five-year period. At 21 Sebastian Cabot began his ex- plorations. At 21 Pitt made a famous 'h in Parliament. At 22 Newton iscovered the method of infinite series. At 22 George Washington fought his first battle At 22 Charles Darwin be- gan his famous Beagle voyage. At 33 Pope published his famous “Essay on Ci At 24 Whiteficld preached first open-air sermon. At 24 Wil- Penn: wrote “The Sandy Found: tion Shaken,” which led to his imprison- ment. At 23 Lincoln became a member of the State Legislature. At 25 Rem- brandt painted “The Anatomist.” What is true of the truly will hold for those who rems humble walks of life. Great men are, {from a psychological point of view, only average men writ large. If you can find out what the man from 20 to 25 is vllnning to do, what the essence of his plan is, you ean predict what he may do later on. If you should desire to write the blography of any person, great or humble, study the 20 to 25 It's the turning point in far as ity and character are con- cerned. No mental test given before this period can estimate the mental :‘ehul:wn of -.ormm. b.em:ehllhe m limits &'EW ive until then been reached. Lemoén Jelly. Half box gelatin or two_tablespoon- fuls granulated gelatin, half cupful cold water, two and one-half cupfuls bolling water, three-quarters cupful lemon jwice, one cupful sugar. Soak gelatin 20, minutes in cold water, - ve in ing water, strain and add to sugar and lemon juice. Turn into mold and chill. Willie Willis BY ROBERT QUILLEN. “We was goin’ to have beefsteak for supper, but I was teachin’ my dog Rags ;g'nrry.mh(eln'theupereomc No Kitchen Work Today! Save Health and’ Strength—Serve SHREDDED WHEATL:S With all: the bran of the wholg wheat FEATURES.’ Famous Mistakes That Brought Good 2.—Sextus Tarquinius Fell in Love With Another Man's Wife and Rome Changed From a Monarchy to a Republic. LUCRETIA 15 Lucius_Tarquinius, the Proud. sixth King of Rome, might have ruled longer had. it not been for the dire results of the argument which his sons, Titus, Aruns and Sextus, had with their cousin, Tarquin of Collatia. While Luclus, the Proud, besieged Ardea, Prince Sextus gave a supper one night in his tent. He and his brothers and cousin began to dispute as to which one had the worthiest wife. . ‘Tarquin finally brought matters to a ocus. - “Come,” said he, “let us ride off and see what our wives are 8. we can decide which is worthiest.” ‘The princes, who had been co! considerable quantities of wine, i at once to this proposal. So off they rode, going first to Rome. It turned out that the wife of Titus was having a hilarious evening at a banquet; so were the wives of Aruns and Sextus; but when they continued |t on to Collatia they found Lucretia, wife | to of Tarquin, hard at work at her loom and directing the labors of her hand- m;lgdem. wm:'u w;:e‘?;‘mynrllenbyim ‘ is easy agine the surp: of Lucretia when shouts of “Lucretia is ‘worthiest! Lucretia is worthiest!” greet | pul her ears. She drops her work, linmwm to explanations, t):,m-A:u-incely visitors before they gq back to provide T A harmless incident, apparently. But it had dire consequences. Prince Sextus DIET AND HEALTH' BY.LULU HUNT PETERS, M. D. fell in love with Lucretis. A few days later, returning alone to Collstia, he her. Now the had for against Modern Clothing for Women. Sunburn. “Dear Doctor: Last Summer, while at the seashore, I got sunburned, and after it disappeared, it left a large ugly brown spot on my shoulders. (My complexion is very light) Wil this You st have Bad ‘ou_must have & very severe sunburn to have left such a maik, E. However, it will probably disappear in some months. RS Sl g 8 any burn staying sun short time at first, and gradually in- the of exposure until tanned. A tanned skin is a healthy one and, fortunately, is a la mode now. Whether the style experts are being educated on the importance of meas- ures for health and are clothes with this in view, or whether the modern woman has up health measures so that the style have real have to take into account, I don’t know; but how- ever it is, each year it seems there are more advances made in healthful dressing for the feminine sex. I'm sorry I can't say the same for the other sex. Since early history, when corsets were unknown, and loose, light garments and sandals without stockings were worn, we have not dressed more ly. For some time corsets have necessary for the woman who has kept normal weight, and Aweunm feet and ll‘eevelcs ‘dresses h‘vnm the le for some years among girls, and could, with profit, be m by the old girls. Now, this Summer, come the dresses cut very low in the back—the so-called suntan back. i) forbade. Bt GIFs. to, ADPeSE T cipal le her A r these suntan dresses. I thm?e:he is prudishly wrong. There is n that can be construed to be immodest in the low-back dresses, even down to the waistline, if the girls K are certainly ben : e 8oyt i most men and women, so | WaY. for more of the of the ultra-violet rays of the sun, and to I hope to ess the short dresses, . sleeveless dresses and low backs the fashion. It will realize the importance of the tion of rickets and bad posture dren, and will make over-fat-legged and armed girls and women think of re- fealt advice couid pocsbly do. * 1 al could possf 3 * NNy One Mother Says: “I love apples, and can eat on an average of four or five a day. My mother tells me it is not or me to eat so many, as it will give me an acld condition. Do you think the habit is harmful?—E.” 7 Four apples a day isn't an excessive amount, E. One should have the v- alent of four or five m:ml- in it each day, and if you your quota all in apples, there is no reason why you shouldn’t have it. ‘The acid of the apple is the mallic acid (the acld of most fruits) and when it is completely oxidized or burned in the body, it leaves an alkaline ash. In normal health, it is necessary have a large amount of the alkaline- ash foods. (Most other fruits—even the acid-tasting citrous fruits—and "\}:' tables and milk, leave this alkal ash.) The only ones who, perhaps, You can be sure of requests for a second cup when you serve’ ~this delicious eatsworth @ CRACKERS BT : Graham Style Whole Wheat - A O About b Ius- Individual Sergice Packages at All Restaurants '%"Eg:"‘“-"‘u“' B Family Size Packages at All Grocers Tea is of high quality,