Evening Star Newspaper, July 31, 1927, Page 83

ICombinations of UP-TO-DATE KNICKERS ARE STRAIGHT AND SCANT. THOSE AT TOP ARE OF WASHABLE SATIN, LACED AT THE SIDES. UNDER THEM IS SHOWN A PAIR OF WHITE GLOVE SILK AND UNDER THEM A PAIR OF KNICKERS MADE OF GEORG- ETTE, WITH NARROW, GATH- ERED RUFFLES. BY MARY MARSHALL. X RITICS complain of the stand- ardization of modern dress— not erfough individuality in women'’s clothes they tell us. ‘Wowen all follow the leader, wearing the same sort of hats and frocks and wraps—the same colors and the same ornaments, regardless ©of their own individualities. Perhaps a tencd>ncy toward stand- ardization exists in some lines— though personally I see little evidence of it—but no one could have the slightest grounds for saying that there was any sort of standardization or uniformity in underthings. It isn’t so easy to make comments about .underthings. Lacking X-ray eycs one must go the rounds of the smart lingerie makers to get a fair idea of prevailing fashions in lingerie. Never before was there such a be- ‘wildering variety in underwear. Never before were therq so many types of undergarments to choose from. Panties, pantie-chemises, pantie- girdles, pantie-slip combipations, pet- tie-panties, pettie-knickers, pettie-siip petticoats, step-in petticoats, step-in #lips, step-in chemises and plain step- ins, bandeaux, bandeau chemiges, chemises, knickers, drawers, French drawers, athletic urawers and step-in drawers, bloomers—short dance bloom- ers with ruffies, fancy knee-cap bloom- ers and sports bloomers, two-piece eombinations, three-piece combina- tions, slips, costume slips, combina- tion chemise step-ins, chemise step- ins, vests and brassieres—these and doubtless other distinct types of un- dergarments constitute the stock in trade of the up-to-date lingerie dealer. The two-plece pantie and bandeau | set does—as every one knows—consti- tute the complete though perhaps in- CHEMISE, DRAWERS AND SLIP COMPRISE THE LINGERIE ENSEMBLE AT LEFT, MADE OF WHITE CREPE DE CHINE TRIMMED WITH HEM- STITCHING AND EMBROIDERY. THE GIRL AT THE RIGHT WEARS A BROCADED GIRDLE AND A GEORGETTE AND LACE BANDEAU OVER A SILK CREPE STEP-IN TR TRIMMED SILK CREPE SLIP adequate under apparel of many wom- | en. The fact, however, that these | “dancing sets,” so-called, are to be | had in many of the shops only in sizes up to 36 shows that the fashion is generally followed only by the young | —or at least the slender. If a fairly | opaque frock is worn these two trifling | pleces suffice—otherwise a slip is worn beneath the frock. Every woman must decide what garment, or assembling of garments, she wishes to choose. Random buy- ing is, of course, extremely extrava- gant, since the dainty bit of lingerle chosen just because it happens to strike the buyer as attractive may not fit into the scheme of things made necessary by the garments already on hand. You may then choose pantle and bandeau—with slips when needed, or with the bandeau you may wear Dbloomers—tailored sort for tailored and sports wear, and the short ruffled or lace-frimmed ones for dress-up. Here are other assemblings of undei garments that may be more to your liking: Chemise, and panties or bloomers— with petticoat or slip when a sheer frock is worn. The three-piece combination—com- bining all one needs to wear under the frock in a single garment—has been urged by a number of French dressmakers who have found that this type of garment when well fitted to the individual provides a smoother foundation for l:ocks than any of the various assemblings of separate pieces. This three-piece. combination consists of a chemise top with short drawers, with a short petticoat on top—and the petticoat is usually made with a slash at the front. R ¢ Two-piece - combinations—consisting of chemise. top and step-ins—are chosen by some women who supple- ment”them with short petticoats for opaque frocks or with « stume slips when_ more transparent frocks are worn. The more up-to-date of these two-piece combinations are called chemise step-ins, The tendency among well dressed women at present seems to be toward more adequate lingerie—but lingeric that gives some substance twixt frock and skin without adding perceptibly t- the contour. And to achieve this present-day ideal of lingerie, fabrics must be of the thinnest and garments have to be fitted with precision and made with skill. Hence the demand IMMED WITH LACE. THERE IS A TO MATCH. #f&‘) ) (2L for specially made underwear in- creases among well dressed women. In place of blosmers with fullness held in about waist and hips by means of an elastic band--we have bloomers and drawers carefully shaped in about the hips and set on precisely made bands that button at the side or back, or combination garments with grawer portion that are shaped into closely molded upper séctions. & Sometimes the fullness of petticoats or ‘drawers._js arranged in flat pleats —but the pleats meed more_elaborate jroning than appeals to the woman who perforce or through choice at- tends to the laundering of her own dainty bits of lingerie. Crepe de chine, brocaded crepe de chine, crepe-back satin, pongee, rayon, cotton voile, nainsook, batiste, geor- gette, triple voile, ninon, chiffon, in- tible voile, fine silk jersey, fine these are the materials favored at present by the makers of smart lingerie. At least one set of black under- things is almost indispensable in every woman’s wardrobe—but as these are made of the lightest and airiest of materials there is nothing at all dreary about them. There are pantie ban- the French 4 deau sets of black chantilly Jace and “step-ins” or pantie chemises of union or triple voile in tailored finish or trimmed with lace. Over the two- piece bandeau pantie may be worn a black crepe slip; with the step-ins a black petticoat of crepe edged with black lace. Such underthings are chosen by well dressed women to ac- company black evening frocks. Cherry red is a color recently taken up with considerable enthustasm by lingerie makers, who sometimes combine it with black lace. There are women who would not think of wearing bright or strik- ing colors for frocks, wraps or hats who indulge their innate taste for bright colors in these trifiing bits of lingerie, Other women follow the fashion of wearing their underclothes in pastel tones to go with the frocks worn at the same time. Thus you may have Nile green step-ins of ninon and a green crepe de chine slip to wear with dark or light grecn frocks, pink lingerie to go with fro. :s of various shades of pink or rose, and so on through the rainbow. The old prejudice in favor of pure white under apparel persists with THE LUCKY DOG A Tale of Want Ads and Rewards SEVERAL HOURS LATER IT WAS A HUGE KENNEL. BY W. BOYCE MORGAN. “1 tell we've simply | got to do k. The time for o away and we have only 90 cents treasury. Of se, We can money individually and tu but it's the Conquerors’ Clu the money should be carned by club as a group.” Bob Miller, president of the Con-| querors, looked serious as he nuvyvd! these words, and the three other mem- | bers looked equally serious as they listened to them. Well, it Bill could only think up| another bright idea like his hot dog Agtind or selling circus balloons, we might get somewhere,” said Porky Jones, “We did pretty well on those only showed net losses of $1.13, 1 méthing pre ke is onl growled ; ven't. noticed you propos inY ‘anything o startling. ~ Bob pulled a Jast one on you and Red when he had you ride out and his dad the tools for the car, but it was just dumb- « mess that put that dollar and a quar: ter into the treasury.” ) | your | bis head’s good for is to make bulls Red,” this to a sandy-haired youth who was reclining in a corner of the Conquerors’ shack, “if you'd quit read- | ing the funnies in that paper and get | thought fac y working, you might help, “That guy's thought factory is on s usual,” Porky taupted. “All you fat hunk of nothing,” 1 4, “one wore remark like that and they'll be filing you away in a wooden drawer. 1'm not reading the Bob—I'm reading the want And they've given me an idea how <we can earn some money—some- thing that the three of you haven't h all your chattering.” Red?” asked Bob, howlec e ing the ‘Lost and Found’ column,” explained Red. “Lis- | tes ‘Lost: Brown and white Has two brown feet. Answers to name of Jerry. Reward. besides_a diamond ring that Mrs. James Peters is advertising for. “Now, here's the idea: Why shouldn’t the Conquerors make them- selves into a band of dog-hunters and get some of those rewards.” “Ah, don’t be a piker,” scoffed “Why not look for Mrs. diamond while we're at it and earn some real money “That is just what you would say,” returned Bob, scathingly. “If diamond rings were as big as dogs and moved around, wagged their tails and bark- ed, it might be all right. But it's easier to find a hundred dogs than it is_one diamond ring.” “Sure,” agreed Bill. “I think that's a good idea, Red. With all those dogs wandering around loose, we ought to be able to find at least one of them.” What are you going to do?” asked Porky, still far from belng squelched; “wali’ down the street whistling or olling ‘Here, Jerry, Trixie, Rover, Captain. Come on, now, pooches come one and all and be taken home and get a nice boney?” Personally, I think it's a punk idea. I ain’t going to make myself into any professional puppy nurse. I'm all for looking for the diamond.” “How are you going to do it?” de- manded Bob, Porky. knitted his brows. “We-ell,” he stammered. That's just it,” said Bob trium- phantly. “It can’t be done. Now, I think Red has a real idea. We'll copy all the ads for lost dogs out of the paper. I'll divide the town into sec- tions, and each of us can take a quar- ter of it. We'll spend the afternoon looking and gather up any dogs that look lost. Then we'll come back here, get today’s paper and check ‘up. Its! a pretty good chance that we'll get something that way.” That's the system!” eried Red. icod stuff!” agreed Bill. “Let's| get busy. Well,” groaned Porky, “I think it's | a bum idea, but I suppose I'll have to go along With you. Dog hunters! Woof, woof In 10 minutes Bob had divided the town_into districts, each Conqueror had been assigned to his own, and they were off in quest of the dogs that were to make their camping trip pos- sible. Several hours later the shack that | served the boys as a clubhouse was! huge kennel. Bob had brought in six dogs, Bill had enticed four to fol- low him, Red, author of the plan, led in eight, although it had taken sev- eral trips to get them all there, and Porky trailed in at the last with one mangy brute in tow. or the love of mud!” yelled Red when he saw the stout boy’s contribu- tion. “Where did you get that young horse? 1 suppose you think that's Trixie, the little black and white fox terrier!” “Ah, he's a nice dog,” defended Porky. “He's the only one that would come with me willingly. He has some- thing wrong with his front paw, and T just couldn’t get rid of him. He kept limpin': after me and whining. “What werc you doing?” asked Bill. “Out looking for dogs or running away from them “Well, this wasn't my idea,” replied I got a dog, and he looks as much like some of the lost ones as those moth-eaten specimens Here's another—'Lost: Sunday, on east side of town, black and white fox terrier. Brass plate onjgollar bears name Trixie. Liberal resqard.’ There “we've Ot “Well,”” continued Bob, And, say, to get going, that's all. are a couple of other dogs lost, too, you got.” The next few minutcy.were lively,|y to say the least. Son.: of the dogs, excited at the presen : of so many of $heir kind, starte. a celebration any reward today, which soon showed signs of becoming a general brawl. In desperation Bob finally gave orders that some of the worst of the lot be turned loose, and attention was concentrated on the re- maining ones. “Now,” sald the president of the club, “let's go over them one by one. ‘We have four lost dogs to look for— Trixie, the fox terrier; Jerry, the brown and white colli and an Airedale. Well, that one in the corner looks like an airedal “Yes,” said Red, “and like every- thing else, too. What's his name sup- posed to be?” “Prince,” answered Bob. ‘Let's see if he answers. Here, Prince!” All of the dogs except the alleged Afredale showed signs of interest. “Let him go,” commanded Bob. One by one the other dogs were eliminated, until only Porky's huge and shaggy friend was left. “It looks as though we don't get fellows,” said Bob sadly, “Guess we'll have to look again tomorrow.” Bill and Red sat down, tired from their labors. Then Red looked at Porky. Say, Pork: he ‘said sarcas- tically, “why don’t you let that animal g0? If he's one of the dogs we're looking for, I'm Martha Washington.' “You let me alone,” replied Porky. “This dog has a sore foot, and I'm go- ing to see if I can’t help him.” As though he had understood these words, the big dog looked at Porky with his soft brown eyes, wagged his tail and whimpered. The other boys, seeing this, forgot their jests and gathered around the injured animal. 'Well, old fellow,” said Bob, patting his head, “if we can’t get a reward, we can at least do you a good turn. Let’s see the paw. Got something in it? He gently lifted the injured foot, while the dog, his head in Porky" ilap, whimpered. Bob, his head down, slowly separated the hair about the paw. Then suddenly he gave a star- tled gasp. Fellows!” he cried. ‘Look here!’ Catching the excitement in his voice, the boys 1:ined over and, to their amazeme: ', they saw around one of the dog’s toes, as though it were a finger, almost concealed by the mat- ted hair and pressing cruelly into the flesh, a gold band. Bob gently pulled it loose. “Look! ring.” “I'll bet it's Mrs. Peters’ lost dia- came from Red, with a shout ee. ““This dog must have stepped on it and got it into his paw. No wonder he was limping.” ‘ome on, let’s take it over to her,” urged Bill, “She lives just a block away.” There was a mad scramble and a few minutes later the four boys: re- turned to the shack, elated and tri- umphant, ‘“Twenty dollars reward,” crowed Bob. “I'll say the dog hunt was a good idea. “I guess I don't deserve the credit for it,”” sald Red. f it hadn’t been for Porky here, we'd never have found that ring. And I guess this puts ua in nice shape for our hike, doesn't it? Good by, Porky.” Porky, his hand stroking the dog, who was now gratefully happy at hie release from pain, looked up, abashed. “Say fellows,” he said slowly, “would. it I took Ringer with me on he cried. “It's a diamond a police dog| | I altng) THE BRASSIERE® ABOVE, GIV- ING THE DESIRED 'CLOSELY MOLDED LINES, IS MADE WITH CREPE DE CHINE TOP AND LOWER SECTION OF SATIN. THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. O, JULY 31, 1927—PART 5. Many Kinds Require Perfection of Materials some women, and for bridal lingerie pure white is gaining in favor. Flesh- colored lingerie is in great demand for all occasions, and really nothing is more attractive. Orchid, turquoise and Nile green, Alice blue, apricot—these are some of the colors chosen for nightgowns by women who are willing to depart from the convention of pure white or flesh tones. The less worn the soonest mended seems to be the motto of the modern young woman, who in this day of scant underwear need spend but little time keeping her lingerie in condition. There is nothing to be done about stockings once they have begun to wear, for unless the break happens to be on the tip of the toe or a wee hole in the heel it is bound to show with the present low-cut shoes or sandals. And one thing the up-to- date girl will not expose is a darn in her stockings. So instead of spend- ing time making fine darns she spends her time and thought in taking care of her stockings, washing them out herself if she has no personal maid to attend to such matters. Delicate and fragile though the up- to-date bits of lingerie may appear, they usually prove to be quite as durable as the old-fashioned lace and embroidered muslin pieces, with their rows of tucks and ruffles that had to go through an an elaborate starching and ironin~ process after each wash- ing. To give your homemade lingerie a decidedly Parisian aspect, trim pink crepe de chine with ecru lace, finish white crepe de chine with ecru net, finish coral-colored tailor-made lingerie with cross stitching in Nile green, use cream lace on flesh-colored silk or georgette, combine ivory-colored crepe satin with green, finish a light blue dance set with salmon pink ribbon, use cream lace on flesh-colored silk or THE PUZZLE CORNER. 1. Here's where several words lose their heads! You have to do various things to the following words, the first letters of which spell a word meaning commerce. 1. Behead a road and have a rod 2. Take repetition from memory and get one who joins lodges. 3. Subtract location from assault and have a pointed instrument. 4. Behead a weight and get a bit of cloth. 5. Twice beheaded, involving leaves the end of a dog. 2. Number four in this word square is also a boy’s nickname. This makes it easy!” GUESS THI FOUR WORD SQUARE= If you arrange the following groups of letters in their proper order they will form the words that will also form a word square: Amin, nano, toni, onno, 4. Here is a seven-word diamond for you to guess, The second word is what you ‘sit on when you go on u picnic, the third is something you eat and the fifth is a person who often goes with you. With these hints it should be easy! H o L HOLIDAY D A Y ® S Some people think that those who. do cross-word puzzles are full of No. 22 horizontal, but.every true fan in- dignantly denies this. You can do all the puzzles you want, for ‘this is a land of No. 1 horizontal. COMBINATION AND PETTIE-PA LT Ny | I ‘; I NTIES ALL TO MATCH. RIBBON Vi G P e s il il u |\"‘ i A SINGLE UNDERGARMENT SUFFICES WHEN IT IS MADE LIKE THE COMBINATION SLIP, PANTIE AND GIRDLE OF PINK GEORGETTE SHOWN AT TOP OF CIRCLE AT LEFT. THE GIRL AT THE RIGHT WEARS A FLESH SATIN BRASSIERE AND SILK VEST MADE IN ONE AND A SATIN STEPIN GIRDLE WITH PANTIES ATTACHED. OVER THESE SHE WEARS A LACE-TRIMMED GEORGEITE PETTI- COAT—WHICH OUR ARTIST HAS SHOWN FLOATING OVER HER RIGHT SHOULDER. THE SEATED GIRI, WEARS AN ECRU LACE BANDEAU ATTACHED BY SATIN NINON EDGED WITH LACE—A COMBINATION GARMENT WHICH ANSWERS THE PURPOSE WHEN WORN WITH A FROCK MADE OVER A SUBSTANTIAL SLIP. FLOATS A PAIR OF PINK CHIFFON PANTIES MADE WITHOUT A SEAM AND OPEN AT THE SIDES. THE THREE-PIECE LINGERIE ENSEMBLE SHOWN AT LEFT CONSISTS OF A CHEMISE, A BONELESS TO PANTIES OF PINK OVER THIS GIRL'S RIGHT SHOULDER an evening combination of peach-col- ored chiffon. Pure white lace is seldom to be found on the imported lingerie. In one instance pink is finished with lace dyed a rich copper color, and in There, now! longest words in the puzzle! could be fairer? Cross-Word Puzzle. Hints for two of the ‘What The definitions are: Horizontal. Freedom. . Pronoun. Wager. . Exclamation. Rabbits. One. Black (Fr.). Resounds. Preposition. . She, . Personal pronoun. A kind of meat. Vertical. . Same as 7 horizontal. . Eternal. . Same as 17 horizontal. . To place. To make keen. A lot. A male singer. To go. 2. A distress signal. . A brave person. . Negative. . Within. Answers. 1. The words are: 1, terall; 2, re- member; 3, at-tack; 4, d-rag; 5, en-tail. The first letters spell trdade. 2. The word square is name, arid, mind. eddy. 3. Main, anno, into, noon. 4. Words in the dlamond are H, sod, salad, holiday, daddy, day, y. 5. The words in the cross-word puz- zle a; Horizontal—1, liberty; 7, it; 8, bet; 10, oh; 11, hares; 13, unit; 14, noir; 15, echos; 17, t 6, sh; tenor; 11, hie; 12, SO t . Roller skates are all the rage now, and skating 1§ lots of fun—if you can skate. If you can't it isn’t fun, it's Just funny! That's the condition of | than 4?—Hazel M. Johnson. old cushiorn No boat or canoe, no matter how ex- pensive or well made, is made for com- fort. A person who goes along for the ride svon becomes conscious of a de- sire for a cushion. Yet an ordinary cushion is not appropriate because, at best, it will often get wet. To make a really serviceable and effective cushion that is attractive and comfortable, all you need to do is to cover an ordinary cushion with black or colored oilcloth. Select the color you want, then cut out two pleces which, when sewed together, will in- close the cushion snugly. The sewing should be done neatly and the seams smeared with rubber cement afterward to make them water-tight. Now to get two short pieces of rope, say % inch in diameter, and sew the The Riddle Box. 11. When do 2 and 2 make more 12. What room is so small that no one can enter {t>—Almeda Barnes. 13. She went to the woods and got it, sat down ard looked for it, ond brought it hame because she couldn’t find it. What was it>—Tom Upton. 14. What is it that is as old as the world, destined to live as long as the world and yet is never flve weeks old? —Louise Batrous. 15. Why are tears like potatoes?— Reta Kizer. 16. Why is a fretful man like a hard-baked loaf?—Anna Hogan. 17. What age is often ill treated?— Sara Brown. 18. How does a boy who has been kept after school for bad spelling feel? ~—Verl Wilson. Pat, hero of this limerick. Can you| guess the missing word? “I don't this skating,” sald Pat. 19,—Lives in Winter, dies in Sum- mer, grows with its roots upward. What is it?—Minnie Mae Stephens. 20. ‘Why do birds take all the fruit from a tree so quickly?—Marie Wil- kinson. another light blue is finished with lace of the new prairie blue. (Copyright. 1927.) A Canoe Cushion. > _ tope handles i COI red it v o1 -cllox‘h‘ covered with oil-clots ~w ends in place on opposite sides of the cushion, and cover them with narrow pieces of oilcloth. If you cannot get rubber cement for the seams, shellac or even paint of the right color wil do very well. These cushions can be mono- grammed or otherwise decorated to improve their appearnace and identify ownership. Use oil paints in the de- sirable color combinations you wish, being sure that the surface is per- tectly dry before applying the decora- tions. Not only will these cushions last several seasons, but they will double the joy of boating. They also make excellent presents. You might put some cedar shavings inside the eush- fon to keep them smelling sweet. Small branches of pine or balsam will also be beneficial. —— The moon. There is a new one every four weeks. 15. Because they start from the eyes. 16. Because crusty. 17. Baggage. 18. Spellbound. 19. An icicle. 20. Because they take a peck at a time, . Anyhow He Sang. Mother (to Bobby)—Surely you did something else but eat at the school treat? Bobble—Yes, mummi we sang a hymn called, full though we be.” Mother learned later that the hymn selected had been “Weak and sinful though we be.” ST Musical Morpheus. Hardware Merchant—1I slept like a log last night, His Wife—Yes—a log with a saw going through it. T Answers., 11. When they make " 12. Mush- 13, A thorn in Her foot. 14. Sat,