Evening Star Newspaper, November 15, 1925, Page 105

f THE SUNDAY STAR. WASHINGTON, “ D. . NOVEMBER 15, 1925 —PART 5. Can Fashion Bring Back Once More the Large, Elaborate Sleeve? BY MARY MARSHALL. OME student of costume ‘the foibies womankind — combined saving sense of humor some day to write a history o How Interesting it would he to co: sider the sleeves of each century, sac apoch 12 Furc ! And of mankind think of the picturesque and striking these epocha personages of each of At in terma of his sleeves. There'd bhe Henry VI, with anarmous sieeves of satin and velvet full and pillowy from shoulder 1o wr Queen Ellzabeth, in her intricate puff- nd starched lace cuffa: bro. Arving | with wide. 10 | ed sleev cade velver from shoulder to elbow lace-trimmed cuffs, that Louls XV and Louis XV1 And 80 on down the line. What of the slesve of Dianne of Poitfers of Marie Antolnetie they wore were s them as they age In which they or sleeves. close belonged much a part lived. THE SLEEVELESS GOWN CLINGS CLOSELY AT THE SHOULDER. HERE 13 A RHINESTONE EPAULET THAT HOLDS THE BRODICE SFECURE THE SHOULDER. EVENING with A =ympathetic attitude toward{0f sleevea even a and with a ought sleeves the | In France. Joan of Are. of were euch a part of the ‘I agaln. 1lv\-sl'rr:.uw of fonling | _And here ia aomething that sny one, must observe who studies the history rficially. There are th when =l es are guite un important and unornate. for whole decades together, and there are timer When Aleeves hecome %0 important to fashion and are so ornate and so rich Iy émbellished that the preachers and moralists make tirsdes against them. And a proof that the times are very evil in derived from the fact t wom. en wear v . very elaborate sleeven. In times Iike the years Just pamt sleevesn are extremely uaimportant, relatively. Moralistk haven't a thing 10 say against them. and dressmakers wonld have 1o starva if all of a wom- | an's costume was ax simple or as neg- | ligible an her alaeves 3 * oo AND every mo ofian sieeven | come énormous. They | ting larger and larger an | vie wiih each other to see | can carry the greatest vardage of goods on her arms. and those who look on wWwondér what s going, to | happen If sleeves get anv larger | and—then thev hegin to get smaller Threa timea within the past | century sieeves wara very. very, large. | | Once—during the period about 1830 to | | 1835, made famous by the charming {fashion plates of Gavarni—eleeves | bacame #0 enormous that. says one | | commentor. “shapes and sizer of | every description wére being worn which aurpasted anvthing that had | hean ent in the wav of sleaves before.” The lag 6f mutton sleeve first | | came into prominence at this time-and | this gavé way to what was then | known to fashion writers aa the “‘elephant aleeve.” { Then Aleeves gradually grew amaller and amaller. though women went on | wearing voluminous skirts, and by 1843 they were frequently almost skin+ tight. The balloon aleeve was quite a | thing of the past, and. no doubi, then | now, It seeméd highly improbable that women wonld aver take to sich be- | keep get womén which Paper Fights Dust. ! streams, rh“ wasta from Swedish paper pulp | | mille ix axpecied hénceforth ta help keep dust out of the air. Thongh the | Alr In Stockhoim s on the average | 16n times as free from dust a& that of I.ondon in a heavy fog. for Instance. 8 campaign has been started 10 make It as nearly dnsi-free as possible, and In this a vaivable ally has been found | | in the sulphite lye which the pulp mille | of Bweden have hitherio poured away an worthless wante. This Summer all the macadamized | or unpsved rosdwavs and streets in) Stockholm have been spraved with the lve, 10 which lime water has haan added 1o make it laas soluble in rain. The city authorities 6f Malmoe and other piaces have also begun 1o bhuy the snlphite lve hy the carlosd 1o nse it on the roads. and a separate fom- pany has heen formed to exploit the new dusi-binding material. The measuraments of dusi particias in the air have beaen made By the meidorologists and the Swedish gov ernment’s official meteorologist. Prof. Andres K. Angerirom. has calculaied that on the average the air in Stock holm contains 4.000 dust particles per cubic cantimeter, while in lLondon the usual figy Is 10,000, and in heaavy “‘pea soup’ fogs ne up t 30,000, The number of du particles inhaled aach minute by a person walking through a London Winter fag has thushesn sstimated at 450,000 000, 1r. Monk’s New Adventures. Whan _jungleiand hacams more 6r laen #ivilized. Mr. Mank in rharge of a lahor sxchangé, and had a very huey time fAnding work for the inhabitants. A StArvinE Stag was the first ont-o-work ta come to AMr. Monk's #xchange. Hé had never hean nsed to work at-all- -in fact. he'd heen such a pig pot he was known 1o every hody as “The Monarch of the G was - pnt With the Puzzle®Editor. Arrange these words to form a five letter word saquare: 1. What birds choose Spring. The Hawallan word for “good-bye.” 3. A amall gift. 4. To choose for office. 3. The bringer of gifts at Christmas. Answer: 1. Mates. 2. Token. 4. Elect. 5. Santa In-what city dld this take place? The answer 1% hiddan in tha sentence, “The bull threw the mad rider into the ring.” in Aloha. 3. Fine! oo How are you feeling now? Patient--Prefly well, except. that my breathing bothers .me. Doo—Well I'li see If I can't that tomorrow. stop In That Case Gold digger (1o aviator)- take me for a lttle fiv? Aviator —Why. not at.all. vou leok" much more Uke a little girl, rould you Could Mr, Jon? Mr. Monk find him a suitable Monk finally Ascidsd tn send i the atag d0wn to a restaurant whare, for & weekiv bag of fodder. he acted as a hat and umbralia stand. Part of hix duty consisted in calling out-if & dishonast customer took away A wmbrella which did not belong to "him. This made the stag very unpopu- lar, and he was %oon out of work | Answer: The bull fight took place in Madrid. Sea It you can solve these behead- inga: Beherd a ‘stream (o make & bird. Behead a flower and get a weaving machine. Behead momething that wweeps and get what it sweeps. Behead to bat the ave and get part of a chain. Behead again and get a writing fluld. Behead the edge and | got & place to skats. ‘Behead drear and get & means of aacaps, Answara: Share, hare, are. r. ear, Shear, The Proper Retort. “One of them smart city fellers triad to sell me the Woolworth Bulld- ing. What did you say?" | “I wez, all right, young feller; wrap it up!™ o —u Customer—1 “want a couple pilloweases. Clark—What aize? of | A New Serial of stubborniy, | tether, against the angry torrents of | water, the hurricane, | reaching to the heavens, had swirled upon them from the south. transform- ing the calm blue of the Caribbean into a rebellious gray mass of waves that seemed intent on effacing every living thing. monstrosjties again. Rut history re- peated itself rather promptly, and hv 1858 or-1860 th was again in vogue. It was, in fact enormous siseve, of | somewhat different shape, to he sure hecause of the enormous kize of slesves, added to the monstrous dimensions of the hooped skirts- fashionably impossible and were a fawhionable necessity Again the preached against stopped tight sleeves the efrculation of that coats became shawls leeves waned and wasted | until the dreas reformers of the das that the hlond and made.freedom of motion. almost HERE ARE FULIL, SLEEVES OF METALLIC BROCADE THAT, IN REALITY. FORM PART OF THE BODY OF THIS FUR-TRIMMED VELVET EVENI! WRAP. IN THE CIRCLE IS A SLEE! ESS FROCK. WITH A SNUG LITTLE YOKE OF FLESH-COLORED CHIFFON. THE FOREARM CARRIES THE BURDEN OF ORNAMENTATION IN THE SLEEVES SHOWN HERE. FUR CUFF THAT TRIMS A SMART NEW COAT FROCK THF AT THE EXTREME RIGHT IS A SLEEVE OF BROCADE, SLEEVE AT THE LOWER RIGHT-HAND CORNER OF THE FLARIN OF A HAL AT THE BACK OSED JAPANE! FEVE. SHOWING SMOCKIN IT IS HEAVIL AND FINISHED WITH A LITTLE BOW OF SATIN RIBBON AT THE OUTSIDE, FUR CUFF, SEEN ON ONE OF THE NEW STR impossible. Then somehow, in some way. women felt the urge for large sleeves again and fashion yielded to the old desire, g0 that by 1894 or 1895 wé wore sleeves that were as out rageously large as they had ever heen in the Gavarni period 60 vears before. Then, because sleeves couldn't get any -larger and not be unendurable, they grew smaller and smaller and excepting when there was an effort to revive the socalled 1840 mode sometime ahout 1904 —exaggeratedly large sleeves have not heen xean since. In other words. ahout thirty years have passed since the last period of the inflated sleeve, and. if fashions go by cyvles and, as seems highly likely. If enormous sleeves return once.in Avery generation. then it i prohable that” we are in for another era of hallooning sleeves —if not next year then the vear after or the vear after that There Is a large one probably come Just if. and that i wons sleeves will into fashion it prexent-day condltions do’ not make them impossible. The extreme fash jons cause some discomfort they are never really adapted 1o their environ ment. The entirely wearahle costume is never quite so fachlonahle ax the ane’that s just a little dificult. There was a time when headdresses were &0 high that wemen had kneel in thelr enaches or hend thelr heads down In thelr laps In order to manage at all Sl in thic day and = the women who really finance the néw fashions. who buy the clothes who Kkeep the dressmakers in pros- one n neration when LANTERN. Y BEADED. TH ABOVE THIS IS A G SLEEVE IN THE MT . AROVE THE PUFF CENTER GROUP MAKE! perity- when these woman are ne Ionger protected by the four walls of A home. hut go about in motor cars, in subways. in crowded hotsls, in offices. In city streets and elsewhare it_may be that under such eircum stances the enormous sleeve will be found impossible h. 2 chapce pretty safe prediction the sleeve is zoing 1o Important place in the new clothex in fact. that it already hax taken an important place in the clothes that are worn by well dressed women at the present time. And those who are supposed to know a great deal more than they divulge about such t whisper 1o each other that highly ornate sleeve & one o things prom- fmed for next Spring. They expect that sleeves worn at Palm Beach and other Winter remorts will he more elaborate than they have been for many a long vear. here are all soris of intereat ng things that sleeves could do nd siill not depart from time- honored precedent—for 1t reall would reauire the wite of a very original and fertile-minded de- sIgner 1o think of a sort of sleave that has not already heen tried hy fashion. So now If it i the paychn- logical time for a revival of the ornate «leeve. the designers are doubtless searching the pages of higtoric costumery in the records and pletures of ages past for sleeves hoth picturesque and beautiful. 'HER the en sleeve s 8 rmous not. It to may that take a very the the AT THE R DDI. “TTE SL] . OF THE JUST BELOW TH! AT THE SACRED RUBY OF THE IKKANS | BY JACK HON, 'rel e Trove on a * Tropi INSTALLMENT 1. Kirkbrides Island. 'OR three days the little schooner Nancy had been plunging like & spirited horse at vacht Three days it had been since a huge black spiral And still the storm gave no.sign of forward ecabin, fore the vessel and derously across he thrown' oil bags overboard, and the film - of oil had spread for &6 vards around the Nancy: it was this. that kept the whitecaps from breaking and crunching the stout cypress hull of;the ship to’ pieces. The: ship had progresssd less fhan g knot in three days. The wheel was laghed hard to starheard. and the only sail she carried was a small ‘atrip of close-reefed mainsail that held . her from swinging away from the -wind. Thus, for three days, the Nancy re- ‘mained on those " troubled waters crashing . thun- decks. - They had lurching and rolling and-quivering un- der the ‘aharp. impact of edch gruh lmow, Wwhile the crew battied valiantly to keep her afloat. On one ocentgn bt { man had .been washed overboard: a seeond - wave, closing their eves to such dangers. the Cuntomer—] don’t-know, but I wear [could -see: nothing Bt monntaine: of [ eréw warksd on, and sl the Naney a number 7 hat. * waves, towering at fearful helghts be- ' held her own. miraculously eneugh, | | relenting. dimmie Bryson. peeripg out | had swept him back on. deck.. But, the porthole of the There was little that the three occu- pants of the forward eabin conld do. Jimmie and his pal, Bob Ransom, had rather enjoved the experience of this terrific storm at sea. Courageous fel- lows both, just turned 14, thev had only admiration for the manner in which thelr stanch little vessel was hucking every wave: they gave little thought to the possibility that each fresh wave might crumple up the Nancy as & piece of frail paper. But Jimmie's father, James Rrvson. a Wealthy civil engineer, who had hrought the two boys on this sea trip, little expecting the dangers they were to face, was obviously worried. It was not for himself—James Bryson, who had charted many unexplored regions |of Central America, had faced worse | dangers than this without a thought | of perfl—but he feared for the safety | of the iwo. boys. He paced the floor nervously, having trouble in keeping | his footing sometimes, the boat was | rolling so. It was almost eight bells, by the sun, when the first mate, Mr. Ogilevy, came into the forward eabin. his face drenched and sea water trickling down the brim of his sou'wester. “A bit of a blow.” he said. cheerfully ‘but she’s ecalming down now. just lost a piece of the starboard rail T wouldn't be surprised if that's the jast bit o' damage the storm ‘ifl do. ‘e might get under sail this after- ““Where do we lie now, asked. |7 “Off the steamer course, and sort of uncharted bed helow us,’” s (ne_ Tirat afcer. . CBut there's a_little island off 10 port. and it seems to best to put Inpxpro for repairs, If the seas caze up a trifle. There's a natural | Tt | cas | harhe | please. And how far is Colon?" asked Mr. | on. | Four days, sir, with the hest of | sailing. Maybe five. But we're crip. pled some.and it might take a week | laying up for repairs.” | The Nancy had set ont from New Orleans for Colon, where Mr. Bryeon ' was to attend to some work for the | Panama government. It had heen a week since the schooner had cleared the jetties. at the mouth of the Mis- sissippi River and four days since the | long. low-lving. island of Cuba had been'left hehind. From then on there | was a clear stretch Bf sea that, with | good weather, should have been made in six days. But the storm had carried them far east of their course, untH | they were mow near to Kirkbrides Island, where ships rarely touched. Pis A strange this | Kirk Island.” “the first mate | said. hey say it was once the | stronghold of a pirate band. There | are some say there's treasure buried | there even now—but that's said about | almost all these islands. This Kirk- | bride. the man they named the island for, was chief of the pirates. Master of a square-rigger he was, tramming along the coast of South Ameriea, un til he turned pirate.” | The first mate laughed, as though in reminiscence of some unusual tale, | and taking off his waterproof made | himself comfortable. “A bit of tea,| |nice and hot, would go good now,” he | sald, and straightway rang for some. 1T feel fagged, if 1 do say it myself." As_the officer spoke of pirates the two beys had clustered close to him. Now they sat.down, almost at'his feat, and despite the movement of tha ves sel, which was stlll pliching in the v there, and we'll be snug as vou | Br little haven, heavy sea, they waited for him to| continue. | “1 was telling vou abont this Kirk bride.” eald Ogilevy. after the tea had been brought in He was a queer one. They say he was a great hand for music.” Had a regular band among his pirate crew. and these fellows, every evening, would get out on deck ' and go through same tunes. A ship. | mate of mine was on a vessel that once safled cloge tn Kirkbride's crafr in the late afiernoon. He savs they were plaving like they were at a Sun. afternoon concert, high.class ton, like you'd hear at the They Inoked at ‘em through a giase, and here was Kirkbride himself leading the band. which was out on deck, with the rest of the crew laying around. They were so Interested in their music that they never stopped to give chase to my shipmate's ves. sel.’ Is Kirkbride still living >’ Interrupted Y0, sald Ogilevy. there on the island. There's a bunch | of Indians that live there now, and | they stuck his hody up In a little nest, | the way it’s their custom, and th: bones are there vet, so they tell me. “Have you ever hean on the island vas Jimmie speaking now never have. As 1 mald, ships don’t touch there, axcept in case of storm The Indians are self-support ing. and raise everything that th need. They put to sea. too, in little canoes that they dig out of logs, and they think nothing of a five-day safl over to the mainland.” “And we're golng to land on this island?” asked Jimmie “We are” sald the firat and then added. “God willing." The mate had finished hie tea, and even in the half hour he had spent In the cabin the sea had calmed down notfceably. I think.” sald Ogiievy “that we'll he holsting a little sail he. fore an hour has gone. If that's the we'll anchor at Kirkhride's | Island bhefore sundown.' The first maie's belief that the | storm had_spent ftself proved to he | correct. Two bells of the afterncon watch had scarcely ring when Capt. Bob Ran- | 01 ofcer, | McKenzie, the master of the Nancy decided to holst the mainsail. There was &till a heavy wind blowing. and | the breeze bellied ont the canvas at once. while the vessel creaked loudly as she got under way. It was done | with such good results that soon | after it wus deemed sufe enough for the two boys 10 be allowed on deck— | for the first time since the gale had | come up. i The Nancy was gallantly cutting | her way through the water now. with | the wind.almost directly behind her Standing on the forward deck. Jimmie And Rob saw. far In the distance. a solid _black lump rising eut of the | mea. | “It_must he Kirkbride's Taland." | said Bob, excitedly. “I'm sure glad we | had this storm—aren’t vou?" | “Glad! That's no name for it.| Though,” sald Jimmie, looking rue. | fully at loose-swingingy davits, .where 4 Dboat had been torn: off, and the crumpled side of the vessel where the rail had been swept away, “it sure was hard on the Nancy. “It looks like the Rock of Gibraltar.” said Bob, gazing intently at the island. And indeed. from out at ea, its con tour was not unlike Gibraltar.”' Ap-| parently. it rose high in rocky cliffa, but the first mate had told them that | there was a harbor there. and native village at the foot of the alope. | The natives were practically civilized. | | Mr. Ogllevy had told them, hecause of | wis np and ax their frequent excursions to Colon and | other ports: nevertheless, they were a simple people. living plainly. and in-| terested most in the crops they rafsed. | (To be continued next week.) “What animal, ed the teach: of the class in-natural history, “makes the nearest approach to man. 1 “The mosauito.” timidly ventwead the little boy with curly hair. - bé [y | “He's atuek up.” ‘ He died back | Just Al present Fashion seems 1o be broad-minded and open-hearts in this matter of slesves. She takes inspiration from the long. close %z ting, wrinkled sleeves that charac terized the early MiAdla Ages and then turns and cresten a slesve iha is a modified edition of the cuffed sleeve of a little later—e that are described ae “hanging pendent canoes,” and that eventn ally hecame o long that thev had 10 be tied In knots 1o keep thein from trailing on the gronnd. Much later. in the reign Bf Queen Fliza th in Fngland. long sleeves ware again revived aud then thay ware deserihed as hanging down and 1rajl Ing on the ground or cast ahoulders like cow-iails Well, these pendent trailing sleeves ara not nnheard in the new fashions. There are charming evening frocks with draper at the back of the sleeves that hangs down longer than the skirt and sometimes even irails on tha floor Flbow sleaves. or demi-sleeves - thev were called long ago wher they were firat worn and considered auniie immodesr. are little xeen now sdava. In fact. vou might have dim culty In finding any of these ahart aleeves unless vou got a glimpae «f the neweai thinge that are haing made only for wear at southarn Win ter resorts. Rut even among theas thin things frocks are usualls ef*he qnite sleeveless ar long sleavad - The adapiable slhow <leave that heen siuch a romfors women thin generation =eams have favor with the dressmaker 1975, e aver the enfre (Copyright EXTREME LEFT IS A CURIOUS LLEEVE BEING QUITE TIGHT FROM SHOULDER TO WRIST. SHOWING SLASHES REMINISCENT OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY USE OF A CURIOUS SORT OF PLEATIN EVE. WITH FULL FLOUNCE. WITH INVERTE GROUP AT THE TOP IS OF SATIN, CLOSF. THF SUGGESTIVE THE_LEFT. IS A LONG. TIGH1 T FROCKS, AND AT THE LOWER LEFT.-HAND SIDE. OF THE GROI P IS A PUFFED AND A QUAINT LITTLE CUFF AT THF, WRIST. ‘Things Which Are of Intei'est to Younger Readers Wy e He's Stuck Up! whispered one « fvcatiih to tos chers, &5 (hey mant a little apart from Robert MePherson jr. Robert stood. hands thrust in poct ets, with his back 1o them. lnoking In the other direction. He was alwa < very jauntily dressed. and he aw a pony. but the country consine wo: homemade cloth: and had come 2 battered old flivver. They were awk ward. 10o. and shyv. and Jim Toadd who lived a little way dewn the Park had stared curinusly at them when he passed, ax if 10 say “Tonk at the hicks McPherson has with Aim! Where'd he g em?" “Tt would be & good idea 1o gt them into the side vard. where nobodyv ca see them,” thought Robart. =0 he said “let's play In the side vard. Da vor | fellows want to play tennie?” The eldest looked at hir hrothers and then back 10 Robert. He was sm barrassed. “Don't plav.” he sald. Roh was more ashamed of them than Buddenly there was a clang-clanging down the sireet. Tt grew louder and louder, mingled with the screaming af an automobile siren. A flash of red. a man in A helmet—the fire departmant’ Robert McPhereon. jr.. and his coun try cousina forgot ail About social dif ferances. They were bove and thix was the fire department shooting awax down the atreet. After it they went racing like mad. along with a sco of other boys. Robert was in the lead, but was astonished to see the oldest country cousin draw alongside and then pass him. Robert exerted himselr. but he could not catch up. Then hor rora! the second cousin was passing him. He seemed 10 be running easil aufckly, vet in a second he had sprint ed away from the puffing Robert. Rob art was Intensely humiliated by the time the last surprise came. Tha liitle one, Al fust like the others. caught np and in a second was ahead. Than for an instant Al turned. flashed a mischievous grin at Robert and than sped on, beunding around ohstaclas like a lftle kangaroo When Robert reachsd tne fire. his cousins were thare and turning back.” False Alarm!" thev shouted. Their shyness had vanished. Robert felt sheepish—he was afrald they would want to race with him again. but the oldest one came up and smiled like a good scout, and all at once Robert liked them all. He grinned too. “Say, fellows, lei's £o and get Jim Todd and a gang and &0 out and have some fun'” My- Dog. Does;— “My dog’s name ie Caesar. He cxn please’ and ride aur pony while she iz trotting.” Riding a pony I8 & new trick, so here is a picture of Caesar on the pony. This clever dog belongs to Norman Milbourne of Stachan. Al- berta, Canada, and he is very proud to have such a nice pet. Norman says Caesar can do other tricks, too. and is very friendly with 1wo cats, also belonging to Norman. With a pony And two catx and this handsome Aog. we think Norman s wall pen vided with plarfellows