Evening Star Newspaper, October 25, 1925, Page 81

5 THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTO. Lustrous Velvets Vie With Gleaming Metal in Evening Clothes [ BY MARY MARSHALL I 10 the words that mean gor ous and sparkling —bril- liant, dazzling, magnificent, resplendent and scintillating. These words ought to give you an im- pression of the new evening frocks. At uny rate they are the words most of ten used in describing them. Puritanic slmplicty and Quakerish demureness ure o longer admired traits of eve. ning zowns., If your needs must tind n poriod of dress history comparable 10 the present as regards the gor. geousness of materials used, would have to go back to the da Bahylonian splend: the decadence of Rome, the late ian Renaissance or the period of La Pompadour and Louis XV in Frunce & You may be sure, you er attract attention in an embla by wearing cloth ®old or sil fabrics with metallic embroid- 1ding, brocades rich with crustations. These Ror Als abe taken for grant- chathes this season. Not very lonz age we used to speak i certain ciwe of ovening gowns ing ophisticated.” Now there seem to be no ether sort. As soon as givls are old enough to wear eve ning gowns at all they wear the sophisticated sert and the only thing that any w now do to at- tract : < to wearan evenin simple and 1 fr 11 giitte: 1 gorgeous- of the ening count habit of dress wearing among y is on the ir wopean nefghbors this only e m the than convention: women in thi sex o 1 Wi more French we ond natur fnto « neck ent ny often been re: to the tinguis some fore dinner. With Americans such a eustom has d as pertaining only or the very dis- 1 he easy to estab. tish te plainly from the figures o of ready-made eve- ning frocks that the custom of wear- ing even adily increas h and breadth con. can men matter Bu often un doubt, are of wearing there is an tion. It is, you quite swagger by voung Englishman of disrespect on le evening cos- disrespect_ quite £ in t “lothes counter sidered the very lern to look v o sort the conventional tume—with a_sort « shocking to the sh gentle- man, who looks upon the black broad: cloth evening coat with as much ven- eration 1 Westmin- stor Abl > of Lords Tncomfor doub ad- mitted evening cos- tume he hus never feit the ire to change the fashion slar whatever. In fact, 1s never occurred to him that it be chas in any essential. And, of course, wre many Ameri- can men who have much the same at- titude toward the clothes that custom ias given them for evening o be course of five or elx vea inges creep in. And in ty it time eve- ing su o Dositively inue to be black con to be broadcloth. here is much the same com- of black and white about It does in truth seem as if the f the Occident had gone into evening interestin; know, sure, in ti rem mer ¢ vour hook of synonyms | | GREEN VELVET IS HERE DRAPED OVER A METALLIC BROCADE BODI( AND TRIM- MED WITH A W 5 BAND OF FUR. THERE ARE TWO { TRAIN: ONE OF BROCADE AND ONE . mourning at the time of the ¥ Revolution and had never come out of | that doleful state. This certainly plies to their evening clot dance clubs ap- night wearing But some sort of reaction or protest | their golf regalia— ith dance shoes, 1sse Never before were materials blend- ed with such skill as in the making of evening gowns this year. Metallic lace or metallic brocade and velvet brocade—velvet and _chiffon—velvet brocaded chiffon and chiffon—metallic brocade and metal lace—all these are so0 cleverly welded together that thero seems to be no hard line to tell where the one fabric begins and the other ends. Armholes are ‘matters of great im- portance on evening frocks this sea- son. Following the general trend of fashion, bodices fit rather closely about and over the shoulders. It is no long- er smart to hang clothes upon our backs like frocks on clothes hangers. They must show a really nice mold- ing and conformity to the lines of the body. At the same time armholes on most of the evening frocks are fairly lurge; are still fairly low under the arms. There is seldom anything in the way of drapery or other furbelows to detract from the nice severity of this line of the armhole. It is interesting, therefore, to look at any collection of new evening gowns from the best dressmakers, just with an eye to the armholes. They require somewhat more than the skill of the average amateur. In fact, the woman who makes her own frocks may find this question of the armhole the most difficult one to encounter in the eve- ning frock this season. Very frequently the armholes are simply finished with @a cording of the material with which the gown is made. A lovely evening frock of rose and gold brocade shows armholes bound with cording which 1s made entirely from the gold part of the brocade—giving a neat gold line around the arm. Following the example of Agnes of Paris. some of our dressmakers are ontlining the armholes of evening dresses with diamante trimming or with a line of beads or sequins. As the armholes do not set up close around the arm, there is no danger of seratching the skin with this. This trimming is sometimes extended in a at the under side of the arm- nd sometimes a heavy tassel is hung from the lowest point of the loop. Once dressmakers used to allude glibly to evening shades, and in the stores you found satins or velvets or brocades in the “evening shades” herd- ed off by themselves. There was a very distinct difference between such shades and other shades which were suitable for afternoon, and still others which were deemed suitable for morn- ing wear. The ‘“color line” seems to be defi- nitely broken. The first surprise came a year ago, when women took to wear- ing brown evening frocks with enthusi- asm and, moreover, looked very-charm- ing in them. The old theorists had it that brown wouldn't do at all by arti- ticial light. Then women wore sport frocks of soft shades of pink and played golf und tennis in orchid or lavender. very prominent dressmaker, of course, still retains certain preferences fn this matter —certain colors which lie or she prefers for evening. Per- haps no one would think of selecting navy blue for evening wear—though even this may be attempted. You may think of a few other lingering preju- dices—but for the most part you wear seems to have occurred. It is still | if you pl remembered that one evening ut the| Kvery period Casino at Deanville Summer a{tion in the “renchman presented h | we could k attendant at the door we: 4 are neve ning suft made of @ soft brown broad- | along at a cloth. The duty of the attendant was | it does sec to see that no one e who was | experiencing not “dressed” for the ev 3ut he | ter of ev let this iconoclast in. A few rather di g0, they say. no door attendant ernoon would have dared to do that gown. In fact, the formal thing, so there must he some sort of [ noon frock is reaction astir. Then, too, your dinner gown in London have appeared at th svening gowns ha ter and the opera in Fairisle sw ne of them k and four pluses and have are extremes of the For fashions | ably even pace. :ht now we we retimes it ult to di: ish a for own from a dinner or th ng vears collars. | ode. s a period of transt- | i | rather smarter d and move steadily | | change in the mat- | any color you wish. where, with e reservation that it seems not to wear bright, light colors in the daytime in town FFor the evening nothing is too light r too dark, too pale or too vivid in iray has been chosen by some fash- fonable women for an evening gown or two. This was a little unexpected, per- haps. and of course will not becom enerally copled. The new soft, glean: ng velvets look lovely in gray when shed with embroidery in silver 1d or with silver or steel beads yzen shades of vellow might be In the new evening gowns. They {a soft cloth and rub | rubbed ofr. are decidedly smart, and owe their im- portance at the present time undoubt- edly to the prominence of gold cloth and gold lace. There is distinct charm about combining the metallic cloth or lace with velvet that exactly matches it, rather than introducing a strong note of contrast by way of some other color. So there are lovely soit velvets to go with the greenish gold that re- minds one of old jewelry. This is al most chartreuse in tone. Then thero is a sunshiny vellow that goes with the more golden tones, and other love- Iv shades that combine better with other pinker shades of gold. The tendency for green Is very strong this season—a. fact for which Mr. Arlen doubtless takes full credit. Various shades of green combine rarely well with either gold or silver —this fact may have something to do with it. And the new lustrous velvets are reaily charming in the green range. Black has come into prominence interesting this season whith is of as the most colorful since v Usually there is something eithe tering or colorful in the way ming of these new black frock haps this 18 achieved by incrus of bead embroidery or bugle: ery of metallic threads, or p a bit of vivid color introduc underfacing, a panel or a band. A n little black satin dinner gown, simply made without sleeves and with a deep V decollete at the back, shows a wide band of bright green satin running around the skirt. (Copyright. 1925.) A Curious Colony. HIE inhabitants of Pitcatrn Tsland do not often have visttors, but not long ago, it is reported, they re call from Britisher, who, upon his return, some Interesting things to sa cerning life in this curious colony. The Pitcairn Islinders now num ber 150 all told. They are Seventh day Adventists. They have a school and a church and the schoolmaster is pastor as well as medical adviser. There are 67 children under tho ag of 16. The food of the islanders con- slsts of sweet potatoes, & little corn, a few yams, pumpkins and tropical fruits. = The total wealth of the islanders, in English coin, is about £10 sterling. The government of the island is conducted by w chief magistrate in council, an internal committes (com prising’ the magistrate in council, two assessors and the chafrman of the committee), and a government secre- tary. These positions are all hon- orary. All persons more than 18 years of age, whether male or fema ercise the right of suffrage voter can cast five vote each officer. The elections are } between Christmas and New Year. Law cases involving a penalty of under £5 can be tried by the chiet magistrate, but when more than that amount {8 involved two assessors must be associated with him. \When a man is fined he must, since there is little or no money on the island work it out by repairing the roads. The 's work is begun and con cluded with religlous ceremony, und the majority of the colonists retire at sundown. time gt of trim- a had con- little for 14 On Cleaning Day. you want to clean phonograph ds never use a damp cloth. Take it a little v line and use this to wipe off the discs on either side. Be sure that it is well This cleans them without 1t rec doing any possible harm, and is said to improve the tone of old records distingulshed | THE DRAPED FROCK AT THE LEFT SHOWS A CLEVER USE OF THE CREPE SIDE AND THE BROCAD. ED SIDE OF CORN. “OLOR BROCADE SATIN. AT THE RIGHT, A SKIRT AND SUSPENDERS OF CHIFFON ARE WORN OVER A BODICE OF SILVER CLOTH, DIAMOND BUCKLES SHOWING AT THE FRONT. Things Are of Interest to Younger Readers How to Tell Fortunes With Cards. Telli popila & fortunes by cards is a ver stunt_for Halloween partie or for any dull evening, and the per- son who can tell them is always popular. In order to tell fortunes you must learn the meanings of all the car 80 that ur fortunes will be read off rapidly without pauses or hesita- tion. Any cne can link the mean- ings of various cards together to form a fortune, and it is ven easier if you can apply the meaning to some one vou kno These are the gen- erallv accepted meanings of the cards: Clubs. e of clubs, wealth and prosperity. 5 of clubs, upright, affectionate. Queen of clubs, deeply in lo Knave of clubs, generous and si eere clubs, sted a fortune from pe quartes Nine of clubs, obstinacy; h friends t of club: an disputes a love of mone; fortune and great lucrative partner- with a second or third marriage. Two of clubs, apposition Spade spades. a love affain v ed, a death King of Fon. Queen of friend. Knave ¢ meanin Ten of Nine of the pack: sickness Eight spades Ace of if re- spades. an ambitious per- spades, a spades spades an unlucky he rd. st card in ir loss of fortune, opposition from spades. of sorrow fortune, . success; a of Five ¢ marriagc Fou o of money Three marriage. Two of epade happy spades, illness: small loss of spades, an unfortunate L death if with tizmonds, it with t hasty and | passionate Queen of hearts Knave of hearts, est friend Ten of hearts, cards that lie the good. Nine of hearts, the wish card Bight of heur making Beven of hearts, fickle. affectionate., subject’s dear- the antidote of had near it, hut confirming wealth: this is also . feasting and merry- Bix of hearis, generous, easily im- | posed upon Five of hearts, waverer, abls. JFrour of e, Three of hearts, fmprudent; headed action which ronsequences. Two of hearts, extraordinary suc- cess and good fortune. Diamonds. Ace of diamond letter: the card mett to it will indicate its nature. King of dizmonds, hot-tempered, Queax, ® diamonds, a coquette, Knsde of diamonds, a selfish per- Bork TR SEIE change- hearts, marriage late in hot- has disastrous treacherous | indolent, but well | | the object mds, money L roving pe Eight of diamonds, marriage late in life, Seven of diumond Six of diamonds, « Five of diamonds, ur of diamonds, riage. Three of diamonds, quarrels suits and disagreements. Two of diamonds, a serious love af- fair. This is the procedure. gone through serious give weight and creden Zam rly marria friendship. unhappy ma law- 1t should bhe in order to to what you rst. ask your subject to shuffle the cards thoroughly, making a wish he does Then he must cut the: into three piles with his left I Should the wish card be cut, it i lucky sign. Then vou take the cards s ting them, into seven piles house, to your wish, to w pect. to what you don’t what's sure to come true happenings of ton cards a row at a time. expect, to | | PRREIS {How to Play Fobt Ballj distance and sccuracy are | to work for in learning to | punt. First of all, however, the play er should try for form, kicking easil and not attempting to make distan until he has learned accuracy. The punter should stand with his right foot forward and his left foot back, provided he kicks with his right foot. Almost all the weight of the body should be on the right foot. The left foot should be about 18 inches be- hind the right, so as to give balance to the kicker and also give him a spring forwurd as he kicks. The ball should be held in the palms of both hands, fingers well extended around it. The left hand should be a little farther forward than the center of the ball, and the right should be behind the center. The left arm should be extended full length; the right slightly bent at the elbow The ball should be held parallel with the ground and perpendicular to the body, the front end turned slightly in (to the left) and down. The kicker &hould catch the ball Speed, The witclies will be abroad next Sat- urday night. Halloween! The night | of mystery, of strange noises, of super- ents. s it any wonder that all Jike to take part in it, to ar- range costumes for ourselves, to join of one sort or another? persons like to go out on the streets, in costume, on Halloween, and others like to have parties at home. Generally, these are costume rties, and the guests are asked to ar appropriate dress. But what shall we do at the party? A puppet show is a lot of fun, and here are diagrams for one that will from the center, shift it to the posi-[be most unusual and really enter- tion described, step forward with his | taining. It is easy to arrange, too. left foot, and swing through and kick !In this show the sctors show their with- his righty own heads, put the bodies are stuffed. puppets, which can be made to repre- sent any character you wish. Figure 1 shows how to make the puppet. It should be about 18 inches tall, and can be made of any kind of cloth, preferably flesh colored. The arms, upper and lower sections of the legs and torso are all made sepa- rately, stuffed with cotton or excelsior, and then sewed together. The feet are sewed onto flat soles of cardboard, and best results will be obtained if they are weighted. Figure 6 shows the form in which you should cut out the soles. Dress the puppets in any manner you wish. You might even have sev- eral costumes for each of them. You must next arrange masks for iyour own head. A surprising variety Here is the way your stage should look. It can be made by using a table, with sheets draped in the back, behind which the actors stand. Several sheets, loosely draped, should be used, so that the actors can put their heads through. The puppet bodies are tied around the neck, while the actors’ hands manipulate the puppet arms from the rear. Remarkabl: grotesque and realistic effects can be secureg of masks can be made of paper bags Just large enough to fit over your head, which can be secured at the grocery store. Slit them on one side, as shown in Figures 2, 3 and 4, cut eye- holes and then decorate them with water colors, in any grotesque manner you desire. ‘You will get a real Hallo- ween effect from these paper bag masks. If a baldheaded man is golng to take part in your show, or some one with a high forehead, you can get a strange effect by painting eyes, nose and mouth on the forehead, and mak- ing a long beard of yarn. \ The puppets are to be tied around the neck by strings, as shown in Figure 1, and the arms are manipu- lated by, your own hands. The most striking effects are secured, of course, when you are careful not to allow any part of vour body except vour head show from behind the scen You can sing songs, recite poems, such as the famous Halloween poem of Robert Burns, for your puppet show, or you can get up a special per- formance. Your guests will enjoy it heartily, and this kind of entertain- ment will be especially adaptable, be- cause it can be made with old scraps of material around the house and will not require heavy expense. First Boy—Gee, I got a sliver in my finger, Second Boy—I told you to be care- ful ywhen you scratched your head, Mr. Monk’s New Adventures Mr. Monk had a good Plerrot troupe Junglepool, but they had to rely un old pennies that could be collected. Monk noticed that a good many ed the concert hut kept of the collection, so he had a sharp eye open for any one who was mean enough to expect their en- tertainment for nothing. He thought he saw three snakes who seemed to be trying on this little dodge, so he shouted down to them. ‘‘Hellc Feed Your Kitty. Here's a diet for your pet Kitty: Bread and milk. Oatmeal porridge. Biscuits soaked in water. Gravy and soup. A little meat. Green vegetables weekly). A little fish (cooked). ‘These are the best foods for cats, and the things used to feed prize- winners. 1f she has been used to other things she may not be satisfied with these, but will take a little coax- ing and training. (once or twice Use the Soap: Minnie—Mother, do you ‘where Johnnie's washrag is? Mother—No, why do you want it? Minnie—I just wanted to scare him —he baa the hiccougha, know down there.” he said. ve to the Plerrots. Do vou want your holiday for nothing?’ Mr. Monk got an answer to his ques. tion that wus rather different from what he expected. He heard a loud hissing sound, and then suddenly three fierce-looking heads appeared se to his own. “Did you speak? not really,” safd Mr. Monk. ‘It vy important—I only wished to ask you the time.’ FAmw . Wieiag You Can Pretend. A. A. Milne, the English verse writer, once wrote about a dormouse that was forced to live in a chrysan- themum bed when it much preferred geraniums and delphiniums. But the dormouse did not grumble and growl about it. Instead, it pretended that the flowers it disliked were those it liked, and so it got along quite well. ‘We all have to do things we dislike doing. It does not make them any easier to grumble about it. And with a very little pretending we could make them seem to be the very things we like most of all to do. We should not let Mr. Milne's little dormouse be wiser than we are.—J. G. May Be Another Mistake. Doctor—Congratulations, Governor, you're the father of triplets. Governor—I demand a recount,