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THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. ¢, OCTOBER 11 ) 1925—PART 5. 1 Velvets Head the List of Fabrics for the Ornate Autumn Clothes BY MARY MARSHALL. INDING women su content with the line and stvle of clothes they ulready hed accepted the only thing that dressmakers conld do for this Autumn and 10 offer these tried and app! es in new ma- terials, . more splendid ma. tertals, with more elaborate, more in- tricate trimming. So the saving has gone around thut while there has been little radical change xo far as the styles are concerned there has been bi% change so far as the materials go. o there is as much to say about the new clothes as ever, and as much excuse for discarding last year's frocks and wraps even though the line re. mains little changed from that of last year. Thess new gowns that the dress. ‘makers have to offer and that fashion- able women have been wearing for the past few weeks are really too lovely, too resplendent, too beautiful. So elaborate and clever is the workman- ship on many of the new gowns and wraps that you must look with close scrutiny to know how the effect is galned—whether it is made by bits of metallic leather, or by metal thread embrofdery, by encrustations of beads, by mppliques of metal cloth, or how- soever. he masterpleces of the French de signers this Autumn have shown not the slightest disposition to economy The most gorgeous fabrics are used and hours and hours of patient needle- work are added to these fabrics to give further enrichment. An evening gown of gorgeous gold brocade may be em- bellished by &an iutricate design wrought with silver and coral beads. 1t is almost painful to contemplate the infinite patience with which each of these tiny silver beads and bits of Goral was sewed into place on that Qiready gorgeous silver cloth. Tiny bits of leather, each turned to a lovely metallic sheen. are sewn into position on curiously devised petals of tulle or | silk net, and there are pearl beads here and there to add further to the | bewfldering beanty of the frocks. Very wutiful are most of these | new froc vet too beautiful becai:se | somehow o Inappropriate for most oc- casions. In years gone by women worked tirelessly to make pricele tapestries and embroideries. They | made fabrics as rich and as intricate and as beautiful as these, but only | women of queenly rank could wear F ‘Winter by such fine raiment. Otherwise such gorgeous fabric went to deck some shrine or altar, to drape some favorit image or to form priestly vestments. Somehow these gorgeous fabrics so lavishly used and prodigally embel- | shed by the dressmakers this Au-| tumn seem better suited to adorn some shrine or medleval altar than to make women's clothes. | * X X ¥ 1 SO it happens that many of the most | fashionable women—women who | could easily afford to buy these rich and gorgeous clothes—merely look awhlle, admire and turn away. Then they persuade their dressmakers to make something simple and wearable, smart and becoming. Of course, there are some women who have no such prejudices toward the ornate. They will have as much gllt and tinsel and metal embroldery and shimmering lace on their frocks as their budgets will allow. “What s that new shiny soft velvet?” is a queston that the retail salesmen of dress goods must grow weary of answering. Wherever these new lustrous velvets are displayed they attract attention, yet few women | know that these are the new rayon | velvets. That is to say, velvets made | of the fiber that we used to call arti- | ficial silk and now have agreed to| speak of as “rayvon.” “In other words, said one sales- TWO JUMPER FROCKS. AT LEFT, GOLD SKIRT AND BLOUSE OF PALE YELLOW VELVET BRO- CADE ON METALLIC FOUNDA- TION. BANDS OF BEADS FORM THE TRIMMING. AT RIGHT, SILVER CLOTH PLEATED SKIRT, WORN WITH BRIGHT BLUE VELVET BLOUSE, TRIMMED WITH SILVER THREAD AND SEQUINS, man “they are imitation velvets." Having long grown accustomed to the conventional silk or silk and cot ton velvets, panne velvets and chiffon | about them to a customer the other day,, velvet, this worthy individual seemed | to hold these new shimmering velvets in mome sort of scorn. Really, of | course, there is nothing imitation Rayon velvet i a fabric ' that certa merits and thusiasm by for with it was ¢ can_ stand on its has been used wit the several seasons ed though own h en French dressmakers to begin rtificial velvet and THE COAT IS OF PE ET TIGHTLY HIRRED FOR THE LOWER * THE SLEEVES AND THE LINING OF THE ERMINE COLLAR. AT LE| BELOW, GOLD LACE FROCK OVER 'LOTH-OF-GOLD SLIP, WITH WITH BAND OF UNDER THE AT FRONT, AME VE VET. A BIG JEWELED BUCKLE FASTENS THE BELT AT THE FRONT. I. BLUE soft and shimmery as it is at the pres ent time. So glossy {s it that th @lmost seem to be a meta | about it. There 4 a new chif | can see throu and a luxur | fashioned | firm hacktng i Poiret o other n ve h vely new velvets et so thin that vou w panne velvets velvet of the old sort with erect pile and ses velvet lavishly in new clothes and has perhaps done e to bring into importance the gown than ne else at Poiret covered fact that a gown of soft i e most becomin: They say t the importa black gown | shoula should be the & vely en look very | part the sometir slender is m: satin Distinet velvet go molded bodice | binations th. it has never before heen =0 heautifully! and a slightly flared skirt: long. close | fitting sleeves, re | collar made of silvered leather. lic luster | with little cuffs and * ox ok ox AYON velvet with chiffon and panne velvet with tulle are com frequently There is a charming dress of found. Vionnet with skirt made up of loose | | panels of green chiffon, a bodice of matching green velvet wnth floating ! | sleeves of the matching chiffon. Vel vet seems to be taken for granted as lining fabric this season and to be sure the greatest objection against it for this purpose has been almost entirely withdrawn, for the new lin ing veivet is so smooth and hiny and pliant that it can be worn for a lin ing almost as comfortably as satin E oats lined with autiful. Jean his velvet eve. coats lined with Ny trims £ frocks w 2 i same velvet and us these coats with fur. One of the most interesting fabric combinations of the season is to he found in certain evening frocks com to be| EVENING FROCK, AT RICHT. OF WHITE CREPE DE CHINE, WITH DEEP, HEAVY NVER LACE HEM. THE PATTERN OF THE E IS EMPHASIZED WITH OIDERY, HEAVY OM, AND GROW.- ING LIGHTER AND LICHTE TOWARD THE TOP. THERE 15 A SLIP OF SILVER CLOTH NEXT, LIGHT BOISDE-ROSE CREPE DE_CHINE, BOUND WITH BROWN CREPE. THE DECORATION IS OF. BROWN VELVET PUT ON WITH GOLD THREAD. bined skirts made of many lavers of chiffon and closefitting hodices of velvet. And these airy fairy chiffon | skirts, mind vou. are made rather ng—reaching almost to the floor in the original models. Velveteen is a member of the v vet family that has been used in great plenty and that will continue to be | used “throughout the cold months. This is a cottonbacked rather sub- stantial velvet with upstanding pile | and s sufted to coats, jumpers and | frocks for young girls and chi Though ‘the ruge for mann fashions has somewhat abated, man nish fabrics ave in high favor. They are used for simple littie jumper and one-plece frocks as well as for the | conventional two-piece suit | Kasha must not be overlooked in | the enumeration of fabrics for Au tumn and Winter. Though rather light-weight wool, it is quite heavy | enough for the useful jumper or one. piece frock, and sometimes a coat is made of ft with lning of kasha in a | contrasting color. This double thick ness of the material gives it much warmth. It is sometimes used for the linings of coats of other materials (Copyright, 197 epper Chop an onion a green pi pod rather an « lean ham into tiny put these i two or thre has been 1 et cook ge stirring il the pieces are lightly and a ha mato pu pressed thre Things Which Are of Interest to Younger Mr. Monk’s New Adventures. \ Mr. Monk wanted a dancing turn for his entertainments in Junglepool, #0 he lured a few birds away from their homes by dropping some tasty pellets behind as he walked. The birds eagerly followed him to pick up | the pellets, and after a time theyd | forgotten Where they'd come from and didn't much care where they | were going to, either. Then Mr. Monk offered to feed them on tv pellets | every day if they'd dance for him The three birds agreed, and the re- porter on the Jungle News said he had never seen a more attractive turn. They gave a song and dance to the tune of “I Wish I Were in Dixle,” played by Mr. Monk on the guitar. A rude hippopotamus in the audi- ence made the remark that, judging by the discord, Mr. Monk hadn't tuned his guitar since he played at the World Falr. Rut apart from this unfortunate incident the concert went well She Thought He was Paralyzed. He—Do you want to marry a one- eved man? She—No; why? He—Then let me carry your um- brella. Fined for Poaching. Farmer (to little boy with fishpole)— u going fishing, my little man? Naw, huntin’! Hunting? Yeah, huntin’ for a place to Of Course. *“Say, waliter, what sort of lamb was that you brought me?” “8pring lamb, sir.” “Well, T must he eating one of the springs.” You’re Right. “What are the greatest nations on earth?” “Examinatfons. And the Quarter Notes He—I suppose she gave up music when her husband died? She—No, she still plays, but only on the black keys. ‘Why Not? She—When I sing I get tears in my eyes. What can I do for this? He—Stuff cotton in your ears. - ‘Oh! “Who was Homer?" “The guy Babe Ruth made famous.” BY STERLING HEILIG. PARIS, October 1. ARIS has an event. And \\'hl'ni Paris has an event, she knows how to make it into a show for the wonder and gayety of | the nations A swimming race in the River Seine, | with 296 starters, six miles through | a city of four million people, is an | A at a swimming course, the Seine wis is unique. The Selne cuts Paris In two halves. Its banks are beautiful. It winds between some of the world’s historic palaces, museums, untversity bufldings, the Jardin des Plantos, French academy, French Parliament and foreign office, parks, | squares and modern residences. | or_one mile of its six in Paris, it | extends through the heart of the Decorative Arts World's Fair. Add that the 296 contestants in the swimming race of the cities of France | are both men and women duly entered | on the strength of former achleve-| ments from all sections of the coun try. All have their thousands of en- thusiastic rooters from home clties, | come up to Paris to bet on them.| Thousands? Exactly. |~ Nearly a million people actually | witnessed this vear's super-event. A | half milllon had been estimated in advance. Now, it seems certain that | close to a million saw it! Imagine a great free show, with 12 of the higgest French bands, up from the citfes, playing music at in tervals along the course. It is a Sunday afternoon, when the four mil | llon_inhabitants of Parls, plus a hun- dred thousand tourists and unce ted thousands up from the other French citles are free to line the banks of | the river for six miles, on both sides. | On such a Sunday, the World r's average attendance Is 200,000 ! who entrance. A biz horse race draws 330,000 paying public, from | Puris alone. This show is free, with rooters from all France, by special trains, Is there another city in the world that has its greatest avenue, artery { or navigable channel right through its very heart, as Paris has the Seine? Every inch of it has been kept beautiful. London has the Thames: aspect it is unequal, with ugly. dirty sections and inaccessible spaces. You could not get an unimpeded six- | miles course for swimmers and spec- | tators on it—nor three miles nor two | miles! Nor are the waters that flank | New York and other American cities | the fashionable-popu promenade and beauty spot of a whole popula- tion, The Seine, us a fact, flows nearly nine miles through Paris from end to end, curving and turning: and the city, which s six miles wide, is about evenly divided by it. Along its banks, , all that is most sightable and not' able in Paris begins. The swimmers for this annual “crows-Paris nautlcal trial for the champlonship of France,” to give its exact name, are chosen from 62 swim- ming clubs representing 44 French| citles. All, regula have shown | thelr prowess. Many have already won a place in these long Seine swims. And some are known internationally. Seventeen, this year, were womemn. The winner, Mile. Ernestine Lebrun, of Tourcolng, big factory center in north France, is one of a long line | of factory girls who have become | but in notable swimmers. In fact. the second | Woman winhes was equally a Tour- { there isx sumethin vi | th | when you save your life by Mlle. Grace Ledoux ng by their 15 m nce in the men’s handi Jean Bobeyrel of Bordes: Middleton of Nice and of Rouen, the three male winner: One hnandred and fourteen mers came up from the 44 comp French cities. Paris, reputation for frivoli remainde; Paris cotng =i two, pi tukes spurt serfously els se” s very internationic This “something ser ional and of terest. It explains and ju and showy event, o atural justification of Par honor sport and make u glorious s with 12 hands playing music For the sake of “order ciency” of the race, the tors were started off in squads. Thus, no phote show more than one squad, of two squads most, to count h bobbinz in the water. These p graphs will be spread over all Every village will have g photographs of the of ) ee wr n hoats were No pacemakers, other species of tolerated. Some claimed that new regulation inst “follow kes the heart out of swimmers need encouragement That's all right, You won't have i and 6 corn vh allowed to fc caretakers race nurses Us the an: beside wimr eat thing—it race alone; it un, touching was nurse I here ix the not o swimmir W world object e e START OF THE BORDE. A ifles ¢ beyond | These | the reader ites’ ad wim eting in_spite of her ¥, furnished the and big 1 in the 15 how efli peti- | different can parts heads hoto wimming race of | You will soon | How. were this vers who swer. nir was wirs you, And, though Paris makes 1l events, a ¥ show, d will continue to npressive object les. for all Franc drowning! patronase. it, as with it is, was first of all son, 1 ized. in_ self-life-saving from It ha fu vernmen Indeed, the governm is bound both to lead and follow—such i force of exasperated publ sreat campaisn “to mak nment teach swimmin, rench citizens”—of both e mo compulsory, hublic sc fiion way, in France! in hand, cities, concery t, wh ken by schools lost their foo ide, and perished were drowned, under’ circumstances where agze knowledge of swimming have saved the entire lot Thirty-two hoys went into the water. Thirteen them lost their lives under the eyes of schoolmasters and sexes and in fact, is un than ool organiz squarely s the school, 10 the These saved four re_rescued by chance ssershy. hoys saved them selves—which shows that only aver age swimming was required cation season, eptember 15, 1924 sons were drowned in F This year's knew how to swim! s v i lready | U to the prexents the war | fewer French live | s than the past two { years' loss of French lives Ly drown- be, | 11| depopulation recent | in a gently | all 13 boys, | Great Paris Swimming Event a Lesson to Youth | 1o learn to play foot ball nght |ing! Such deaths pe en. hovs swim! Al could swimming. makes an aver of 30,000 di by drowning per generation in I more than half of whom are. v, voung ehouzh to ma bring up families. Here is a « the French org 1 be overcome by of sporting drownings total 1,500 £ French men, wom ar of and girls who could not | themselves h: ance have saved by and 1se of nizers con pleas | say, which « tinuous campaign ure Swimming! Now, you know why Paris made her t Midsummer show, for one day a swimming race In the river Seine, with 12 bands plavin for a_million spectators etched along its banks for six miles, on hoth sides—and few, indeed, of whom knew bow to swim! Not so frivolous, after all, hein? And She Di reastically)—I | She (s wonder what aides, only two of whom themselves | Sir Walter Raleigh said when he laid | his cloak in a’ mud puddle so that | Queen Elizabeth could cr | He (crossly)—Probably, * | ki tep on it, A Lazy Worm. | Two Scots were fishing, but were | new at the game. “Got a bite yet, Jack?” Naw, I don’t believe my worm’s half trying.” u- | music | g | Take it up again the next day and | eaders How to Play Game of Foot Ball. This is the third of A seriea of lessons wh ng out tha moat important points which e boy should know who wants The best method for placing the ball for a kick-off is to bufld a little mound | of earth five or six inches high and place the ball on this mound with its ixis at an angle srees toward the opponents |shown in the illustration. The kicker's toe must then | ball at the lower point. As he starts forward toward the ball he s | keep his eves glued on this point, | should remain there until after | kick is made | A good kicker starts from a mark |about’ 10 vards away from the ball and runs through naturally. As he comes up to the ball his left foot should be placed about six inches in the rear |and to the side of the ball. His right foot should swing through with the toe held naturally and the !lez muscles tense. The kicking foot MOUND OF EARTH uld follow forward more distance far kick Reviewing for the Examinations. To begin with the things mustn't do in reviewing for an ex- amination: Never wait till the last minute just before the examination | to try and cram everything into your | you | mind £ h you kr Lok JHIE 50 thoroughly on one you do not ow b do head at once. Lots of people do this, | hut they are rather foolish and vain | to think they omplish this way | what other people cannat. The: ave ! foolish, particularly, because they will have to work twice ard to learn in a few hours what some one else who started a couple of days before learned in less time This is the way you can learn best and quickest. It was discovered | as the result of experimental tests in | learning, 0 it is not just my opinion, but a sclentific fact. Start two or | three days early and read over your mat It you have taken no or outlined it, so much the better, you will have a good foundation to start. If you must rely on your text book you will have a much harde | time. "If the material is not too long i at your hooks see how much you can rec: wvthing up. 1 Vover the thi up what you Don't study very g0 to bed and to sleep you are singly well the mor: o | this time, You will f informed even mor 1 one n work s | study period, sy between the s and third times My Dog Does— read it all; if it is, read chapter head | ings, subheadings and margin notes nything which will give you an out- | |line to work on. If you really want | to do the thing right, write down an | outline or condensation of material; then put vour book away for that day. |1ook over the same material. You | will have forgotten part of it, but | it is quickly recalled by glancing at | ing parts. Then Ml in infor- | Here are three word-squares to try your hand at: First is another word for a girl; second s a division of land; third is a verb meaning the same as nnoy. fourth, a place to keep writing materials. The whole, rightly guessed and put together, will make a perfect word-square. First is a word meaning small or humble; second, the part of a knife blade that is sharp; third, the differ- ences between two brothers; fourth, the place where birds rear their young. b First 1s the spiritual part of an individual; second Is a cruel glant;!| third is the plural of a Grecian v; fourth Is not more. This is Elleece T ‘grandma”’ to am “My dog s Elleece in her letter iress him up like a grandma with a dress and a pair of glasses, a little cap on his head, a doll in hit arms and seat him in a small rocking chair. I think he is very smart Of course he is smart to sit there so prim and funny and never moy If y r dog does somethi ! as this, write and tell the ¥ nd | Girls’ page, care of this paper, includ- |ing a description of the- dog. Then | maybe, if it is a good trick, we will | print his picture on this page and tell other boys and gitls about him. vlor's dog playing Elle Answers. ME A SOUL EDGE OGRE AGES UR NEST L