Evening Star Newspaper, February 22, 1925, Page 65

Seasonal BY MARY MARSHALL. HE problem of designers and dressmakers for Spring would be a good deal easler if cur- reit fashions were mnot so generally liked. Jf women sighed for something new, if they longed for some drastic change, if they found the clothes they weére wearing unbecoming, impractieable and uncomfortable, then it would be smooth sailing. But we are all quite comfortabls and most of us quite satisfled with our own appearance. We—meaning most of us—like the straight, scant line; we like short skirts; we like slender hips, and we aré not espe- clally eager to cultivate an hour- &lass waistline,. We like clothes that are light and compact, easy to slip into and easy to wear. Yet, of courss, there is the insatiable desire for something new. \, We bid designers show us some- ' thing new and we throw a fit If there g 4 is any real innovation. Changes must be mere suggestions, Changes will surely come; in fact, very subtle changes are taking place, but there would bé much more radi- cal changes—and incidentally more news for the fashion reportér—if women were not so generally satis- fled with clothes as they are. Skirts are shorter. That is not In the nature of a real change, becausé they have been decidedly abbreviaced all Winter—much more so in France than in this country. The skirt that looked just conservatively long last Autumn will look positively dowdy this Spring. The skirt that termi- nates midway between ankle and knee “rides” up to the knee when one is seated, but this is part of the mode—at least of the more extreme wing of it. To be sure, there is a tendency for slightly more fullness to the short skirt, so that this “rid- ing” tendency will be in part rem- edied. This fullness of the skirt, however, seems to be a little more apparent than real. In Paris it is sald that the skirts will be a little fuller at the back. The straight silhouette still rules, but there are pleats, pan- els, tunics, peplums, aprons and frills that take away from the severity of the effect and impart a bit of fluf- ness. There is actually a little more room at the back of the skirt often, but the plain, scant, untrimmed back seems to be the rule in almost all the new things. T HOUGH not a novelty, spoken of prominently [uarters, and if the trend of fashion- | ble events at smart European Winter resorts and in the warm resorts in our ow southland can be taken as prophetic then kasha will be a favor- ite everywhere for spring. It is espe- clally smart in the so-called natural tones, likewise in the pastel tints. Twee of cour: will be favored for sports wear. Several of the corded silks are holding favor and will be used for the light-weight silk coats— almost alw of black—that find such general acceptance for Spring and Summer in France. French dressmakers have felt the effect of the coming visit of the Prince of Wales to Argentina, and it may be that by the time the royal darling of the French fashionable dressmakers returns from Latin America we shall have something in the way of Latin-American influence on fashion—whatever that may be. is all kasha in Interesting enough, the frocks that have been sent out to the Argentine | by the hundreds, because of the ex- | pected visit of the prince, have been | for fhe most part dainty frocks richly | embroidered and lavishly trimmed THE for New Styles Offers with lacé—of voiles and other wash- able cotton materlals. Of these the finest are perhaps in all white lavish- ly embroidered and much trimmed b filet, colbert, and other sorts of lace. However, therée are some €ol- ored omes, these often combining two soft pastel tones—lettuce green and primrose yellow, mauve and rose. Fortunately the first appearance of SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. O, FEBRUARY 22, 1925—PART 5 Unusual Spring Spring hats still continues to bring a thrill to most of us. The fact that you do see women who wear Straw shapes before the middle of January and that by the time Easter is here | many a woman has arrived nearly at the point of discarding her first “BEaster bonnet” has not robbed most of us of the sense of a strong associa- tion between new Spring hats and the Problem clung tenaciously to black. One new French Spring hat is described as be- ing made of “brightly varnished straw with a big bow of ribbon set obliquely behind the hat and a ribb running round the crown In the clas- slc manner.” * * % ¥ "THE auestion of the length of one's hair 1s still fmportant. The women who for some reason or another never had their locks shortened want to know. Of course, if eventually all women but the freaks are going to be bobbed or shingled, then they had better have theirs done even' at this late date. But if, on the other hand, the bobbed coiffure has seen 18 smartest days, then it is best to hold on to long hair even though for the time being there is still difficulty in getting ready-made hats to fit. As a matter of fact, nobody knows just what is going to happen. Even in France they seem to know no more about it. A Parisian barber the other day looked troubled when an American woman, nearing 40, asked him to cut her hair. At her age, he tactfully suggested, it took some time for the hair to grow out again. Perhaps after she had had it cut she would not ltke it. Then it would be so long waiting for it to grow in agaln. So that woman came back to this country with her locks still long. Of course, Paris is the center from which all this bobbing radiated Still those who have been In that city recently are not of the opinion that bobbing is any more general there than here. There are conserv- ative Frenchwomen who prefer to have their daughters keep their hair long. And one thing that is interest- ing is that while in America the little girl almost invariably has bobbed hair, in France littie girls usually have long hair. Many of the smart little girls that you see in the parks have their long hair tied with enor- mous hair ribbons that take the place {first balmy air of Spring, budding Spring flowers, "and that tantalizing, soft perfume of April. This year the thrill will stronger, because £o many be even of the hats are flower trimmed or trimmed with crisp, jaunty bows of ribbon. The milliners would have liked to press bright colors on us, but in Paris, at least, the women themselves have of any hat. Nowadays it is not un- usual in France for the little girl to look forward to the time when she may have short hair, just as little girls with short hair here used to look forward to the time when they might have long hair like their mothers. Meantime the coiffeurs are trying to do something to help the woman with long hair. They are no longer simply disregarding her. They realize that she may possibly want to have her hair arranged In the mode. Just because she has not had her hair cut is no indication that she has glven up trying tp keep in with the fashions. One new idea is to wear the hair in a knot just over one ear. To be- gln with, it is parted at the right side. It is then drawn back, the hair from the right side being drawn around the back to meet the hair from the left side until they meet over the left ear, where a soft, se- cuté curling knot is made of the ends of thé hair. The ears are covered on_both sides. Some women look smartest when the hair {s drawn up 50 as to ex- poss the ears. It may be parted sevérely in the middle, drawn back behind each ear and then done up in a knot at the nape of the neck. Another style of arrangement re- minds one of the time the girl with long hair used to wear it in long bralds that were then wrapped around the crown of the head. Now the hair is divided into two divisions and is then twisted into long ropes which are laid around the crown of the head. (Copyright, 1925.) _hings Which Are of Interest to Younger Readers Mr. Crab Travels to Market. re's son advantage to ing a landsman, all right, | old Cap'n White comfortably, as he| sat in his hair and smiled down at his grandson, Ted, who was curled up on the rug. He had jus finished reading a book—a sea story his grandfather had brought him “It's not excit like be fisherman, thou argued Ted. “Well don't t the idea that all kinds of fishing are exciting. Not a bit of it! Some just plain hard work and in all sorts of weather “Now 1 was noticing your mother making a crabmeat salad, and that set me to thinking of last year when I was in Maine awhile and visited a big crabmeat factory there. Thought it might interest you.” “I didn’'t think they manufactured crabmeat in a factory!” exclaimed Ted 'Of course they don't. pictures of crabs, haven't funny fellows that walk Used to he weren't v a there much of ghed | P being out You've seen you? The sn 1AtEEy a béen Fat’s Nap. Every time “The Big Four” went on a hunting or hing trip Fat Ames was sure to spend half of his time sleeping. Tickling and pinching him did no good. He was as hard to move as a mountain. The Bjz Four had been restless since school stopped their Summer outings, So they were very glad when Mr. Potter, father of Jimmy Potter, arranged to take them on a rabbit- hunting trip over Saturday and Sun- day up In the northern part of the State, They spent all Saturday hunting, and had good luck—that is, three of the boys and Mr. Potter had good luck. Fat curied up and went to sleep. They went to bed the hunting lodge early, for the weather was quite cold, and a wind Was rising. Soon after they were snugly in the tent snow began to fall. Then the wind blew with increasing violence. Along in the middie of the night Fat was awakened by some one shak- ing him. “Get up, Fat” one of the boys shouted in his ear, “there's a blizzard or something. It's blowing 1imbs down and part of the old cabin roof's ripped off. I never saw such a wind!” Fat half opened his eyes. He de- cided it was a dark morning and they were trying to get him up early. “You fellows go hunting without me,” he mumbled sleepily. “I'm going to finish my nap.” In spite of their shak- ings he was off to sleep again. Along came a fierce gust of wind and snow, blowing open the door. Tt in boom in it, on account of advertising all _through New England, and the crabs get into about as many parties now as the lobsters, where they used to be only poor relations. “Some factories send out their own fighermen In_motor boats and they put down traps similar to lobster traps, only with tHe slats closer to- gether to keep the crabs from getting away. These traps are set in waters known to be good crab grounds. Most of the crabs, though, are bought from the lobstermen, who now save them, instead of throwing them back Into the sea the way they used to do. “The crab factory men pay a cent apiece for these little fellow The crab collecting boat calls on the lobstermen once or twice a week. Evén at the low price of one cent each for crabs several lobstermen made from thiry to forty dollars a week last Summer out of crabs alone. “Crab factories are scattered all up and down the coast. Each fac- tory hires from 15 to 20 girls, and they work from éarly Spring until snow files. They handle, on an aver- age, about two thousind crabs daily You ought to see their fingers fly when they're skilled at the work! “The crabs are put in a big box and live steam is turnéd on. They are steamed for half an hour. Five hundred crabs is an average ‘cook- ing’ und there is a ‘cooking’ three or four timbs a day. When taken out and cooled the crabs go to the screened in, neat-as-a-pin picking room. The only thing used in plek- ing out the meat is_an ordinary, good-sized jacknite. With the han- dle the girls crack the shells; with the small blade they pick out the meat. And there you are! “These girls can, pick from 12 to 24 pounds daily. The record 15 45 pounds in a day—but that is a lot of crabmeat and the pace couldn't be kept up. “Only the meat in the two largs claws is used. Did you know that? The bodies are taken away by farm- ers and used as chicken feed and fertilizer. “Not very_ exciting 1 guess, but it's surely a different kind of business —running & crab factory.” pulled the top coyer from the shiver- ing Fat. “You fellows leave those covers alone,” he protested, “or I'll, I'll—" He was asleep again. Once more he was awakened, this time by cold snow on his face. That was m mean_trick, he thought angrily. He just wouldn't pay any attention, so again he cuddled under the covers, The sun was shining brightly when he awoke again. He looked about in bewllderment, Thére was a fire in the fireplace, but part of the cabin seemed to be missing. “Gee, Fat’” called Joe Potter excitedly, “we had a terrible blizzard, and you never— “Well, why didn’t you let me know?” grumbled Fat. “THat's just like you fellows. Never wake me up when theéreé's any excitément.” Answer to Yesterday's Puzzle. >[o]>@go 4z DS G PUZZLE NO. 1. Acrons. An Arabian horse. Consume. Something leading to solution of a mystery. Center of rubber industry. An evergreen. An_excavation. Ireland. Brother; a friars title. A handle, as of & pitchéf. Serious. Conceal with supérfidal polish. Negative. Unit of energy or work. Originate. Gazed maliciously. An affirmative vote. Reverential fear. A hag. An opera. Man's name. Frozen water. Allows. Hold in high esteem. . Without friends. Membranous pouch. Persia. 7 At the les side, Measure of length. The wife of Geraint. Cherished. See. Marries. Very Little Room. “Who was the smallest man in His Title. Sam—So you're the circulation manager of the team. What do you N TR Bo—Why, give them the rubdown. Was Particular. John—w;h,lt do you say to a tramp in _the park Tomi—1 névér spéak to them. Down. Mimics. Uncommon. Dry. Tropical fruit. Exhausted. Atmosphéra. Journey. Alter. Solitary. Besides. Maintain habitually. A child. Before. Public convéyance. Cereal grass. A wiggly fish. Crash_into. Females sheep. r. e principal meal. Skilly cunning. The populace. A geometric figure. A certain playing card. Retrospective survey. Happy. A character or part. Flat surfacé. The sex eaglé: A foray. Finishes. A malt Mauor. [orory BrIPPaacmm e s coes et o totats bt gl 2 g b ol PUZZLE Acroas. Quote. Seaport of Arabia. Hair on an animal's néck (plural). Ladies. Conjunction. Excuse for no appearance court. River in Italy. Hail! River of Tuscany. Aperture. Diminutive of Theodore. Disposes of by sale. Maiden loved by Zeus. A Southern Stats (abbr. Township (abbr.). Boy's nicknam Scoff. Plant used in salads. Youth. Mountain range in Russia. Julce of a tree. The three-toed sloth. Like the stars. Exist Make & picture. An ecclesiastical councl. in Yatns of the BY ART CHILDS. (Up in the great lonesome woods of the Nofth the old guides have made up Mmany yarns which they téll dver and over to the tenderfeet from the citlés—their own way of expliiding the strange tracks and weird nolses. Mr. Childs, Who uSed to be a _game warden in the wodds of northern Wisconsin, collected these stories him- self from the “old-timers.”) Did you ever have swellings in your throat and face after being out in the woods camping or. hiking? The old-time lumberjack says that such trouble comes from drinking water from unprotected water holes and streams that are hang-outs for ol NR ot & man-lump the o0ld lumberjack wil] exclaim. “Well, that shows you've never been in these Woods before. MR “He's a web-footed animal with a large, dog-like head. There's a great lump on one side of his face, and that's how he gets his name. The worst thing about him is his tail, which is big and heavy, and all spik- ed like a war club. When he's angry he fights backward, swinging tbat dangerous tall of his. “The mug-lump lives along streams d in low, marshy woodlands. Fhere's something poisonous about his ugly face, for wherever a mug-lump is found there yow'll find water unsafe to drink. Befdre taking a drink I always look nd carefully for his tracks, and you'd better do the same.” NO. 2. Down. 1. Cut up. 2. Within, Lump of earth. A brief literary composition, Adleu (S. W. United States). Tribs of Israel. Printer’s measure.- o Independent kingdom . betiween Tibet and India. Ditch. Soggy masSes. Senior (abbr.), Upon. Prepared for . publication. Clearings in a wood. A ‘narcotic drug. Always. Blow dellvéred with the open hand. Nymph of the fountain. Corrodes. A group. Wooden shoe. ' Hurrled. Right (abbr.). French unit of square measure. In addition. An_alkall. Suffix uged in forming names of countriés. North America (abbr.). Washington Tales. HO said George Washington never told a lie! This expres- sion. of trait of character has always been associated with George's father, but, according to Ella Bassett Wash- ington, it should probably be accredit= €d to his mother. B In a daring effort to break and ride his mothér's favorite, flery and untamed colt, Géorge allowed the creature to rear and fall in sfich a position that the colt was killed. In response to " his ~mother's inquiry about the colt, George confessed his fault without exvenuation; to which his mother replied, “I am 30 sorry that my favoritd colt 18 kill am glad that my son always tells the truth.” George Washington's father Slalana 108 sWermens o this atees ok . 4 “Behold, the mystic magic of the Indies—a trick with ecards which baffles science and again proves the old adage ‘the quicknéss of the hand deceives the eye.’ “Here I let you pick any card in the deck, as I skimmingly unfold them. You know the card? Don't let me see it, but put it back as I let the cards 8ift through my finkérs (as in figure 2). Now I will 8huffle and look. Aha! I will now spell out your card, beginning with the top “ace of hearts’ "—and sure enough the eleventh card is the ace of hearts. Hera's how it's done. When the card is put back In the deck you contrive to keep the little finger of the right hand in the place whers it is kept, flattening down the forward portion of the deck. By manipulation, get the lower half of the deck (under your little finger) on top and contrive to look at the top card as you commence your shuffie. This is thé card picked. When shuffied, look through the cards, face up, and count forward enough cards to Spell out thé nams of the card picked and put the batch 6n top. Thén spell it out and thé picked card will be shown. CAP'N ZYB. Perform This Trick on Your Dad. Gay Cross-Stitch Scarf. Thére are Woolen materials of looke,” even weave that are just the material for making this smart school scarf. If thé cloth is right, no stamp- ing is required, as it is simply & mat- ter of countjng stitches and threads, in order to follow the design. Two birds, or even three, if thé ma- terial is wide enough, are done on [TRIE [jifiiolo | [I_fo] pldce when George was about 16 ye of age, after he had gone to Mount Vernon to live with Lawrence Wash- ington. g Thus the probable origin of the myth- ical hatchet story, which has been told and retold until it has in reality amfi;i:._; Rfl{ xg_nn life history = (o] BEIR 0] each end. However, one end only can be embroidered, while the other end s gatheéréd closely and finished with a large, gay tassel of some bright color. The color schéme suggested is good on any of the soft neutral colors like gray, taupe, wood browns or éeven black. ololfi s eloiolo]ofollHil EEIEEE [ lojelolo]o] I oto it = I Double Tree. QY - R. Walkup's farm at Fairfax, Mo., 18 & tree that bears both ber- flés dnd nuts. About 30 inches from the ground the tree divides and ths branches on one side produce walnuts ?d_. the others have mulberries an them.