Evening Star Newspaper, April 20, 1924, Page 64

“Thin Frocks TAake .Things Which Are of Cousins Who Belong to Finch Family . ‘ FMCK EMBROIDERED NET OV] BY MARY MARSHALL. VERYTHING in the pregent fashiona favors the wearing of clothes that are comfort. - go0l in summer. When high, tght cotlars were In_fashion—or clasely fitted, bored bodices—or wide ballooning skirts, worn over ‘many petticoats—or skirts draped and loop- ‘| ed up over a close foundation after the manner of 1880—summer must have been a sort of punishment. Not since the first few years of the di- rectoire period have women's fash- ione taken any acoount of warm weather. For over s century fash- ion has dictated something or other in the presoribed mode that has been inconsistent with warm-weather comfort. - To dress warmly enough for the chilliest days of winter and etill be in fashion has seemingly been possible all along, provided one had the price of fine furs. But to adapt one’s self to weather of the other extreme has been diffioult. Perhaps there is some deep-seated psychological reason for this intro- duction today of clothes really suit- able for summer into the prevalling mode. Fashion seemingly no longer 100ks upon warm summer days as a mistake and an intrusion, but as a scason offering unusual opportuni- ties for displaying charming frooks The bare neck, the short sleeves, the unfitted and unlined frock, the loose, low walstline, the skirt fairly shert and scant, the simplification of underthings, sheer stockings, slip- pers, the habit of going without gloves—all these details of the pres- ent mode favor the thin summer | trock. | are tried out, ER FLOWERED CHIFFON, WITH LARGE PINK FLOWER AT THE SIDE. | always succeeds in building his nest |in such an | uous perch on the top of a tree. The finch family includes a most unusual v of birds from the sev- eral de es of small sparrows to the morc colorful members. the goldfirich, the cardinal, the buntings of brilliant blue and the gayly paint- od grosbeaks. To déscribe the different species of | sparrows ‘and” tefl of their habits would ~alone take several articles. This article will have to Le confined as a cage-bird. He is not a migrant, but spends his winters in the southern states, where he is the best known whistler next to the mocking bird. He inaccessible thicket of brush or willows that, in spite of his| color, he cannot be seen. But when he sings, he makes no attampt to hide | his flery plumes. selecting a conspic- The mate, who wears Quaker gray gar- ments, also sings, but not with so much volume. Her eggs. laid in April, | are three or four in number and are| | white speckled with brown. The indigo bunting is a small bird {five and a half inches long. of an { ultra-marine blue. His hard, brilliant | voice reminds one of the canary. He| is a tireless songster, found pouring forth his notes from a second growth hedge or meadow, and sometimes even singing on the wing. The female is a dull sparrowy-like bird and even the male's feathers take on a brown- ish tinge mingled with blue in| autumn, when the time comes to de- part to Central America for the win- ter. A gliding flight with an unusually cheerful call as he dips and rises again i the chief characteristic of to the members of the family ch are‘most outstanding for their beauty. The cardinal looks lik lively masquerader.. But the blac he wears on his face would nev celve any one, for the brilliant color of his costume makes him casily rec- ogmized. As though a beautiful coat of red were not enough to make him highly brized, he has also @ lusty voice, two characteristics which a count for his being much souzht after Joke on Stupid Most little rabbits, like most little boys, hate to have their cars washed. Mrs. Mollie Rabbit found that out when she lined up her seven children for daily inspection. Six of them usvally had to be spanked on théir cottontails for being careless. The seventh one, Benny Rabbit, was her pride and joy, for he -was always spotless. The reason for -Benny's keeping his ears neat and sweet was vanity. They were the most beautiful ears one ever saw-—not a faded pink like most rab- hits’ ears, but a deep carnation pink. Benny had a habit of keeping hi beautiful ears cocked for ments and he often heard the remark that lbe. was the handsomest little rab in the vieinity. It all went to his head a great deal and after a while he got in the habit of sneaking away for a daily walk just to show off those ears. One day as he was rounds of the meighborhood, Benny’s heart simply turned green with envy at sight of a new rabbit sitting inside a yard with a fence around it. The newcomer not only had pink ears, but was pink all over. Face, fur, feet— «ll were nink. Benny tried to hop {he fence to get a better look at the lovely creature, but the wire was too nigh. - But seeing him at a distance made Benny suddenly dissatisfied with having only pink ears. He want- ed to be pink all over: After watching a minute, Benny hal an idea. He hopped into the gar- den ‘rearby and returned carrying a bouquet of fresh new carrots with a ruffle of tender cabbage leaves around the edge. Making a bow, Benny sald, “Kindly accept a gift from me and if you don't ;mind I should like to know how you got your delicious pink ¢oat.” - Then he hurled his pres- ent over. the fence right at the feet of the stranger. Without even so much as a “Thank you" the receiver sat staring straight ahéad. He didn’t even bat an eye.. 3 ). Benny was furious. He doubled up his paw and shook it, shouting, “I'll teach you to bigh-brow me.” “Denny!” thundersd & veice behind ¢ compli- | making the | the goldfinch While in summer his stume is pure golden, it changes in winter to a yellowish olive, which is | the color of the female both summer | and wintcr. Goldfinches are late| house builders, not nesting until late in June, when the three to six pale blucish white eggs are laid in a bed lined with plant down. The gold- fineh lives in winter in very nearly the same locality in which it lives in summer. Young Rabbit “Why are you velling at that candy rabbit?” Benny turned.to find his mother standing there with a-big | stick in her hana. | “What kina?’ taken aback. “That silly candy rabbit that some | child left in the yard. Now I must say, of all my children, you may be the most beautiful, but you're also the dumbest,” exclaimed Mrs. Rabbit. “Now 'you march your pink ears straight home, young man, and don't whimpered Benny, For most women in this country there need never be any uncertainty in selecting summer frooks, even when this is done in midspring or earller, for warm-weather fashioms are tried out at southern resorts where one of the chief diversions of the women who resort there is, of course, to See and be seen in new clothes. Meantime the new clothes sparing the who stays at home the anmoyance and expense of uncertainty. By the time she is ready to think about dis- carding winter clothes the mode and the manner of wearing the mode woman | WASHINGTON, - D. C. Prominent Place in Fashions of Presen shows, it is a good prelude to the whole business to stroll through the shops where the new thin fabrics are displayed. One must be blase, indced, who does not feel a bit of thrill at the sight of all these fabrics, so fresh in color and somehow exuding the tragrance of spring whether they be one of the mew linemes, a roll of newly opened georgette or chiffon, embroldered cotton vaile, one of the well woven new- striped washable silks or a new net or lace. Sometimes, of course, the fabrics that charm you most never scem to have been seen or heard of in the realms where ready-made frocks have their origin. And at the showrooms of the distinguished dressmaker where you order your most important frocks the materials that have ap- pealed to you most strongty may be quite unknown. It is on such occa- sions that every woman sometimes yearns to try her hand at making her own clothes, and feels the strong temptation to buy, a paper pattern and as much goods as the patterns call for and start adventuring in dressmaking at home. Most of us, at some time. or other, have dreamed of thin summer frocks that we should like, but have despaired of ever get- ting them because of the difficulty of persuading any dressmaker that such dresses would be worth making— and have never even dared hope that on some shopping expedition we might run up agalnst the incarnation of the dream dress all ready waiting in some showcase. This is undoubtedly a very aus- piclous time for your adventure in home dressmaking, because simple thin frocks such as women will wear this spring and summer are often not at all difficult to make. One thing, however, that the home dressmaker seldom can manage to advantage is the elaborately tucked frock. There is much fine pin tuck- ing. There are thin separate skirts material. Woe betide the home dress- maker who attempts to make one of these or who essays the frock that shows quantities of pin tucking ae trimming ! Pleated frocks are usually difficult to manage aléo. Though the pleater sets the pleats, there is always the dificulty of giving the pleated gar- are pretty well settled. * * * x EY N if you buy all vour frocks ready made or order them at your dressmaker’'s from models she | “Lucy, the star boarder has asked that you stop practicing your scales,” said Mrs. Barker. 3 Luoy whirled around on her pi- ano etool, “Mother, all we do is listen to that old man’s complaints. I think be just sits upstairs and waits for some noise ,80 he can make a fuss about it. He made you ever take a walk again without your mother's permission!” Self-Made, “Brudder Shinpaw has done mighty well, ain't he, sah. He must be wuth all of $200.” “Yassah! And I was ‘'quainted wid dat gen'leman when he didn't know whuh his next chicken was comin’ tum.” Entirely in Favor. “Did you faver the honor system at the Tecent election?” “I swre did; I voted for times.” it five Bright Child. Mother—Alice, it is bedtime. All the little chickens have gone to bed. Alice—Yes, mamma, and so has the hen Jack stop roller skating half “an hour ago and he told Buster that if he played “train caller” any more he'd leave! “T know,” sighed the poor mother. “The colonel is cranky and a Jot of trouble, but you -musn‘t forget that he pays handsomely for the lit- tle things we ‘do to make it com- fortable for him, so now when he's] in a bad humor we must try especial- 1y hard to molify him. I waht you children cach to see if you can't do one kind thing for Col. Brown today, Maybe tomorrow his nerves will be Dbetter.” s Lucy grumliingly folded up her music. She started out to see what she could find to do that would be quiet fun. On the bottom step of the stairs she saw s lpundry box with the colonel's name on it. o “I guess I'll take hie clean latmdry up to him! Thatll piease him. He mey even give me a peppermint for it"" ‘decided Lucy. She mounted the [ €o o/ I'L s Garl readers | (~ho Yo | 2 Brothor Dok s Rabbitly sfranpe danpr| Strange; but never arc ) — Qree Srem, Gour? truly, : Tl ment the finish of an expert. For the woman who works neatly and with precision there are no in- surmountable difficulties in the new spring and summer frocks of man- the 3oy | NN owr, (Brother Rabbitls OINgs arc JSometfimes IMine l tingo! Q@ few pictures which 7 Fave drawn for you. own perz) Story of the Boarder’s Laundry. stairs and knocked on the crotchety old man's door. “I brought your clean clothes up to you,” she added. “I thought maybe that would méke up for my having disturbed. you with my practicing.” The colonel groaned. Then he said, “that was very thoughtful of you, my girl. Now come in and T will give you a peppérmint and a horehound drop.” When Lucy had eaten her candy and skipped out Into the yard, the colonel very cautiously gripped his box' of laundry and limped a: step at a time to the bottom of the staira “I hated to tell her that it was my soiled clothes that I had left in that box for the lanndryman to call for. She means well."" ¢ A few moments later Jack, passing the laundry box at the bottom of the stairs exclaimed, “Gee, if I weren't 80 mad at Oid Crosspatch, I'd tske his clean clothes up to him. I'd bet- ‘ter _anyway.” So Jack ‘carried the his napto deliver it i “L thank you,-boy. I thank you. Now .fun” along,” ecried the Star box. F . “Huh, lot of thanks I got for that” grumbled Jack, but he didn't know that the orippled old fellow that are made entirely of pin-tucked | 1 | Interest EasTER GREETING S S0z TORPLEINERD| | priately APRIL 20, nish silk shirting. We call ft mam nish stili—though if we go on a8 we have begun women will doubtless use more of it this summer than men have used for scveral seasons past. * % % % ‘Nfl’lAT is often the telltale mark in a homemade frock—as well as some of the cheaper sort of ready- made frocks—is to be found where the sleeve meets the shoulder. Gradually, but none the less surely, the closely fitted upper arm has come into fashion. Especially important is this In the very short sleeve which should cling very closely to the arm. In sleeveless frocks, too, there is a closeness of fit about the shoulders to be found in the frocks that bear the cachet of the best dressmaking. The lace frock seems to have taken an important seat In the arena of summer fashions, and almost every woman can have to advantage at least ome lace frock in the Wwarm- weather wardrobe. Net, especially embroidered net, is treated in much the same way as lace and produces somewhat the same effect. Frocks of cream or white lace or embroidered net are worn over colored slips. Navy blue lace, by the way, is very smart. It carries the approval of French dressmakers and as yet has the ad- vantage of the unusual. To be seen at its best, the navy blue lace or net should be posed over a figured fabric. Black embroidered net or lace is ef- fectively worn over a foundation of flowered chiffon. This is an ides that lends itself either to the afternoon or evening frocks. An effect that al- ways carries with it an air of French inspiration is produced by posing a cream or white net or lace frock over a slip of black. By the way of de- parture there are overfrocks of net or lace dyed to warm shades of apri- | cot. Chiffon divides the homors with georgette this samson. Printed chif- fons bave by no means vanished from favor and both chiffon and georgette are used in combination with laces. Georgette s often used in 30 severe a mode as to appear almost tallored. In gray or beige, georgette of a heavy quality may be worn quite appro- for the useful about-town daytime frock. The question of waistlines is one that presents itself afresh as we con- sider thin summer frocks. Many of us possess a speaking fondness for the ribbon sash or silk girdle closely confining the fullness of a sheer sum- mer frock—at a walstline that has not descended in the proximity of the A hobbled ~painfully downstalrs. with his box when Jack had ‘gbne out- doors. “Buster,” o within the half hour. I see .Col. Brown's laundry’-is on_the stepm: I wonder if you couldn’t take ‘it up to him. He would no doubt be very much obliged to you.” > 5 For the third time the colonel's soiled laundry which he“had un- happily. put In the box his clean clothes had come back In the’week before, was taken to his room. “My patience!"” cried the poor ex- asperated old wan. “I can't stand this any longer? First those chil- dren bother me with tholr noigp and then they insist on bringing up my dirty wash. I'm going to lose my box up and woke the'old man out of |° Boarder petulantly as, he took - the |- mind. I think Tl] go to my daugh- ters for the week-end and get a rest.” “Maybe it WoR't.be, a vacation for us too,” giggled Lucy, Jack and Buster. Very Simple. “With all due deference, my boy, I think our English custom at the telephone is better than saying ‘Hello!" as you Americans do.” “What do you say in England?” “We say: “Are you there? " Then, of course, if you are not therec there is no use in going on with the cem- versation.” called . Mes.' Barken |' 1924—PART 5. knees. That low-dropped waistline somehow goes better with the sub- gtantial frocks of winter than with the sheer fabrics of summer. -k k% O there i3 some satisfaction in dis- covering quite frequently, in col- lections of new frocks, girdles and belts placed almost high enough to be called “normal.” Prediction had been made that fashion would go from one extreme to another and would not raise the walstline until she adopted a high directoirs or empire position for it. But as far as present appear- ances go fashion seems to have done nothing of the sort. You have to search far before you can find one of the much heralded directoire waists among clothes actually selected for spring and summer demands. The directolre waist {s very quaint. It is picturesque. From the point of view of our present eyes it does not seem distorted and grotesque, as do the fashions of the period of 1835, when “with their gigantic sleeves and large berthas women succeeded in making themselves look almost as broad as they were long.” We cannot look at old lithographs showing the fashions of those days without a smile. We are entirely out of harmony with such fashions. Not so with the directoire mode, which to another generation might seem as distorted and grotesque as the 1335 mode does to us. But though the directoire seems pleasant- 1y picturesque we seem in no mood to dress ourselves with such picturesque- | ness, We seemingly do not want to be quaint, even though picturesque- y s0. 8o apparently the high walist is not | to me part of the mode—at least for | the next few months. (Copyright, 1924.) - “Tin-Streaming.” WH.EN from time to time, for vari- | ous reasons, the mines {n Corn- wall, England, are closed down, num- bers of miners turn to a novel form of occupation known as “tin-stream- ing.” At different points on the northern coast of Cornwall the pounding of the sea wears away the rocks, the metal-bearing portions sinking into the sand. where the tin- streamer digs down to the shingle in order to get at the black tin de- posit. A stream of fresh water flow- ing out of the clift is conducted by a gutter to a “buddle” and into a| trough having a perforated sink bot- | tom. The shingle Is thrown into this, from which the tin residue is separated by the water before the final washing. to Younger 1 Precious Jewels. Stories of Turquoises. Turquoises were at one time so plentiful in Mexico that the Astec Indians used thousands of them in masks which they wore for their religious ceremontes. Big ones, little ones were cemented together over a cedar frame to make a covering for. the face. The teeth and eyes were inlays of mother-of-pearl. Some say turquoise, or turkis, is| | named atter Turkey, whence came the atones that were used in old Euro- pean jewelry. Really the finest ones came from Persia, but that was be- fore the wealth of the blue and green stones of America had been commer- clalized. I Long ago the Apache and Pueblo Indians of the southwestern United States used them in quantities, for turquoises, unlike most stones, do | not have to be mined. but appear on | the surface of the ground in bright | greenish-blue spots and stains. The ! Indians used to gather the turquoises and rub them down into the shape of | beads which they wore In long istrings. Imagine how costly such a string would be today when one small stone, while it does not rank in value with the gems par excellence— namely, the diamond, sapphire, ruby apd emerald—is still of sufficient value to bring a good price! ! The various peoples that have been | particularly fond of turquoises have attached most curious superstitions | |to them. Kgyptians carried them in ! the desert, to bring good luck for the finding of an oasis where they might be refreshed on the jourmey. The Persians fastened them to the tails of their horses, mules and camels. In Europe it was once believed that the word turquoise meant vic- torious, or fortunate. Because the turquoise frequently changes color, | turning from a sky blue shade to a superstition to stone shone when ‘the air was pure, | but became dim when I} fortyne was about. Turquoises, when worn, were considered Insurance -against a;per- son’s being struck by lightning or being ‘drowned. A woman engaged a fiew maid, with ‘whose appearance and-manner she ‘was greatly pleased. When the terms had been agreed upon the mistress sald: “Now, my last maid was much too friendly with the policéman. I hope I can trust you?” *“Indeed you can, ma'am,” she re< plied, “I can’t bear policemen. I was brought up to hate the very sight of them. You .see, my- father was a burglar.” . Very Careful. Doctor—Have you taken every pre- caution to prevent: spread uf conta- gion in the family? Rastus—Absolutely, doctah, we've even, bought a sanitary cup_.and we all done drink from €~ T paler greenish hue, peole fastened a | X it, saying that the [ga 4 ar 'WHITE CREPE DE CHINE FROCK, WITH PIN.-TUCKED TUNIC AT LEFT. AT RIGHT, RED-AND-WHITE STRIPED FROCK, WITH LINEN COLLAR AND TIE. Readers To Test Your Cross-Word Skill TORIZONTAL. pronoun esh, 5_Winged biped. S Fartat e ere. + 11— Disavowed. 13—Part of "o be."" 4—To delight in. 18—A parent. 19—Tellurium (symbol). 20—To follow diligently. 2—Wandered. oid_mark. Turkish Vithin. » - Let’s Play Skidoo! A-very polite, yet funny way to suggest to your guests at a party that it is time to go home is to play the game of skidoo! Pencils and paper are passed to as many people as happen to be present and all play it at the same time. It is a simple arithmetic problem which ends in all cases the same way, no matter with what number you . start. Follow through these directions and see what you get: Take any number between one and nine, add one, multiply by nine, cross out the left-hand figure, add fourteen; add the number you took and look for your answer. The blackboard in the. ploture-illustrates the way it -is worked. > (prefix). beverage. ull of esergy hade tree. great lake. kpieces. cal composition two persuns. rd. A warbliog. To turn fuside out. 24— lnclines. guish. ali. Tiuid element. To adapt. v goversor. julc [4]a] REEDOEE RIS (DEIRT- . E'L:;[il [2]-12 141~ [oRRWIn[Or ] [CTAOTZINCT] {RENIC ] o @ 5] I Answer 1o erossword puzale in last Sanday’s Star. Calamity. Speed Fiend—Well, I'm afraid that .. train will beat us to the crossing. Passenger—That's not what I amy afraid of. It:might be a tie. 18 Left the Ache With It. Paul—Does your tooth still hurt! Albert—I don’t know. Paul—What do you mean by don “|know? Albert—I left it at the dentist's. 5. — He Hopes to Be. Ambiticus - Student—Say, miste: have you been a street sweeper ali your'life?” Street Sweeper—Not yet. What a Relief. Student—Why don't you'laugh at «: the prof's jokes? Silent Ohe—I don't have to. getiing kicked out next week. T am