Evening Star Newspaper, February 11, 1923, Page 70

¢ 0 Q 4 g»%@@s%o@o':)b@-b Sunken Gard.:ns Among Characteristic Features of Land Which Sends Bulbs to This Coun- try and England and Blooms to, Brussels, Paris and London—Vast Number of Houses Built ¢ Upon Piles and Lean This Way and That—Tallest Building, Called “American Skyscraper,” Is Only Seven Stories High—Busy People Have Millions of Savings Accounts. THE ‘SUNDAY STAR, 'WASHINGTON, LTSS DT S > g QQQ—QQQ' A AT A AT A T AT A A DA T, DA D A AT D O DA BY FRANK G. CARPENTER. TTRECHT, Holland s a fllm of Holland after “grim visaged War lhath smoothed its wrinkled front,” and the people have put on the eloak of normalcy. For the past week or 8o, T have been flying over the brick roads that gridiron this beautiful king- dom, my car racing side by side with the multitudinous bicycles that here take the place of the American flivver: now high above the flelds riding upon the embank- ments that uphold the larger canals filled with barges; and now down inside the dykes that wall the great polders. the former lakes and swamps that these thrifty Duteh have turned into gardens as fertile as Eden. T have ridden throush the georgeous flelds of Haarlem, where “the carth laughs in flowers” moro splendid than Solomon in his glory. and from where each vear more than fifty million pounds of tulips, daffodils and other bulbs go to Fngland and the United Stat the war the Dufch have been competing with the greenhouses of Brussels. Paris and London. and they now out flowers by airplane. reaching those cities each merning in time for sale side by side with the biossoms clipped from the gardens hard by I have vi Amsterdam, the financial canter. a huge web of eanals “walled with one hundred thousand houses built upon piles, which in settlifz have leaned this way and that, o that the quaint old town seems to huve gone on A crazy drunk in its richness 1 have exploved the HIS sewd spider wide waterways of Rotterdam, the gateway to the Rhine, | S the Maas and the Scheldt, where the huge ocean liners come to anchor in the AMSTERDAM HAS HEART OF THE BOATS. ALMOST BUSINESS midst of the six million snipping out every year. | have crossed its many bridges, a thousand times busier than was the Rialto of Venice in the days of Antonio and Shylock. and have watched the crowd going over them, including fourteen thousand bicycles and sixty thousand pedestrians each day. ing works after the city and tons of o in an wiich made mill armistice, but which now. am told, are turning rich mea to pau- | world-wid pression. have a'so zone out municipal aviation field, from where Fotterdam expects 1o compete for the trade of the air the Maas she competes for that of the water pers in this T business de- to the HAVE spent Hague. the beautiful resi- dential capital in Europe. where the Duteh government has its headauart- ers, and where Andrew cgle’s ved brick and white palace points its crimson rd Heaven. crying ont Jeremiah the prophet: “Peace!. when there is no neace in all the world And still T have visited no also a week in The most one finger as did v land ON THE QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY ALL THE CHILDRI MARCH IN PATRIOTIC PR Sinee | ted the wide-awake city of | AS | which just now corresponds so well to he words of David the Psalmist: “Her ways arc ways of pleasantness | and all her paths are peace.’y | We can see this in a train ride across country from The Hague to Utrecht, |the biggest Dutch town of the east. | The meadows, each fenced by its water- ways, are epotted with fat black and | white Holstein cattle, which make one think of the piebald sheep and goats | that Jacob got for his wages from Laban, | the son of Bethuel. It is harvest and |the haycocks and grain shocks stand | out like little armies, | watch our train pass. Across the green plain we see the long lines of trees | marking the roads. They fence in the {landscape as though there were nothing | beyond. Here and’there is a windmill, |a huge tower witl: long sail-like arms, tossing about through the sk: The scenes change every moment. Now we pass meadows. now wheat, now potatoes or turnips. The fields ave in tectangular blocks. cut out by little cal which row and then join larger canals by little wind mills only ecight or ten ifeet in height. The low mills raise the water only & few feet from one canal to nothe the big ones for heavy pumping and often for grinding corn. wheat or some other grain. Here is a canal flowing upon au cm- ! bankment, high above the rest of the country. Our train runs on such an embankment. in the fields at the sides of the track | or below the canals ofteu do not reach |to cur level. If these canal embank- ments should break. the whole land would be flooded { The wide canals which run across Holland. with their sloping green walls drawn up to are MANY DIST! CANALS AS VENICE. RICT OF THE CITY, AND AR | that drop down into these vast sunken eardens, are wonderfully beautiful. | Long streams of silver flowing upon raised beds of emeralds. they inclose a retwork of smaller canals. each a neck- lace of diamonds surrounding its green or golden jewel of agricultural or pas- tural richness. They form scenes that can be found nowhere else. except in the weli watered lowlands of China, or | here and there in pasts of Japan and Java. Tie stock chief difference is in the live there are also fat horses feeding on the rich green. und fleecy white sheep graz- |ing in the meadows. There are huge | white sows, each with ten or more tiny, {cunning. rosy-ekinned pigs running labeut through the grass, and now and then great flocks of ducks. and of geese raise their heads and hiss as we pass. Along the Zuider-Zee there are villages which male a specialty of duck- rearing. and the ducks fairly pepper the of that region. Some of the most interesting of the | sunken gardens are in and about Haar- lem. Here. the season. are great beds of hyacinths and tulips in blos- som. There are also patclies of vegeta- bles surrounded by hedges. and orchards in OF HOLLAND OCESSIONS, CARRYING FLAGS. the | or are pumped into them | 1e roofs of the houses ! The cattle are everywhere. but | Tloaded with fruit. In-a motor ride yes- | terday T went by field after fleld of bright yellow carrots just pulled, their green tops pointing one way and the yellow tubers another. There were patches of potatoes just dug and of great turnips that looked like so many white billiand balls on the brown choco- late soil.” our ride across country we pass through cities at every few mlles. All |of the Dutch towns are well built, well paved and well kept. Every street is as clean as a pin; the windows crystal and the brass knobs are shining like gold. The streets are almost all paved with bricks, which is true also of the roadways throughout the country. Just |mow new buildings are going up in all of the citi Amsterdam has some targe quarters built by the municipality for the laboring classes. and I see new |apartment houses of two and three stories and new factories in all of the {centers. Dwelling houses face the | street. with steps that come out on the % | sidewalk R ium has the highest house in It is known as the Amer- lican skyscraper and is actually seven | stories high. It is built of porcelain tiles | and stands upon piles. Amsterdam has !the Queen's Palace. the foundation of is 13,600 piles, and there are so | many other buildings there supported {that way that the town really roosts on tree trunks. Most interesting features to me are the ‘Judas glasses” or mirrors about as big as a sheet of note | paper hung to the wall just outside | the windows, so that one can sit | within and see all who pass up and | down the street. These mirrors are | usvally at an angle that they whic such MANY OF THEM ARE IN THE E CROSSED BY LITTLE FERRY- | show the front door, and unwelcome | callers can therefore be spotted and | the servant told to say that the hostess is not at home. These Judas BY ER SHELLEY. N one expedition, on which I was the only white man, T had a varlety of interesting experiences. among which was the killing of my first buffalo. © We were near a part of the Guaso Nyrio. when one day Hymeasie, one of my guides, told me he had seen many fresh buffalo tracks all along the river bed the way down. 1 called Simba, my gun-bearer, and we went fo look for them. There had been many buffaloes watering in the river just the night before. He climbed the top of a large hill and 1 began looking for them with my glasses. At length I saw a dark object in the shade of a tree about one-fourth of a mile across the stream. 1 could not make out what it was, but Simba | | i | | } i ! bought mirrors are common and also They eyes."” The pictures of the people of Hol- land sent to America give many wrong ideas to ghe man on the street. He has the impression that it takes a whole bolt of cloth to make a palr of Dutch trousers, and that all the men wear short jackets and their footgear is clogs. The truth s that the Dutch of the cities, men and women, dress just as we do, and they are so like us that an Amsterdam or Hague crowd dropped down in New York would not be out of place. The people are, I should say, almost a head taller than the Bel- glans or French. The men are big boned and husky, and the women espectally large and fine looking, many of them being handsome rather than pretty. The people look capa- ble und are very intelligent. The Dutch universities have al- ways been famous and there are now more than one million pupils in the public schools. The children are manly, and the Loys and girls run about together and seem to enjoy one another. Young men and young women make “no bones” of going along arm fin arm through the streets, and a common sight beau on & bicvele with a loving hand on the shoulder of his sweet- heart who rides on another wheel by his side. Women are admitted to every profession, and the Dutch feminist movement fs well advanced. ¥ ¥ % X HE quaint characters shown in the advertisement of Holland and pictured so widely in all travel books are confined largely to the fishing villages along the ocean and in the islands of the Zuider in Belgtum, in France and Germany. are sometimes called “Judas during my stay. Each village has its* own costumes, and a common head dress is the helme: of thin beaten silver or gold thai fits over the hair and comes cut to the front of the ears. To this. some di tricts. sre added gold corkscrews or spirals that fasten the lace cap on each side of the eves, and als) high collars of coral beads and great silver or gold brooches at the nec and sometimes at the waist. They are very stmlilar to the headgear 1 have described in the story trip from Antwerp to Rotterdam Along the Zuider Zee the girls wear short and verr full comint halt way down the calf. below which are woolen stockings and great wooden shoes. The skirts are often several in number, reminding one of the in “Miss Hook of Holland": “I have Peter And another little petty from John And another bright yellow From some other fellow And one that I haven't got on.” As to clogs. they are worn very generally by both the poor and well- to-do people outside of the cities. I a pair the other day for 40 cents and expect take them home to use as flower pots. They are made of light wood cut out by a carpenter, and whitened with chalk. These Dutch tell me that clogs are warmer than boots, and ts song one little petty from to is a| Zee. | T have visited most of these places | of my | . ‘¢, FEBRUARY I, 1923—PART 5 Gorg'eb'us Fields of Holland Produce Flowers for Shipment by perfectly waterproof they are especially desiralle in a country below the level of the sea where the earth is often as moist as | | a sponge. The clogs and therefore ar 13 in the | house. 'They are slipped off on the door steps and the people walk over | the spotless floors of the kitchen and other rooms their stockings. School children their clogs in the hall and =it at their desks in| their stocking feet. It is wonder- ful how the boys and girls in these wooden shoes. | have seen them riding hicyeles in them. and racing each other on foot along the canals. Just vesterday J saw one climbing a pole in his Aogs | These clogs do mean | Dutch peasant is’poor. I | Holland has more than two aud one- Ralf million &S accounts, which | means that more than oue in every | three of te whole popylation is I 1ing up money. Qur propeortion {not one in nine. The accounts in the | Dutch Postal Savings Bank alone equal more than $100,000,000. The | national debt is less than g billion, | whereas Belgium. of about the same size and not many more people, owes four times as much, and France stag- gers along loaded with honds that exceed fifty billions. In other words, we Americans owe just about $240, ‘lhe Belgians about $332, nd the | { French $1.230 for every man, woman and child in the country. The debt of little Holland is not quite $12 per capita. It is one-tenth as much as that of the Fr as they are and worn are clumsy noisy | in leav, not that the rich sa a ! then ladore her. {auring QUAINT COSTUME of the Belgians and only a little more than one-half as much as our own. and 115 Dutch are a nation of patriots They and gov- themsely they la respec their “the good Wilhelmina called her “the 3 might almost call her “the for it is said that she now and opens %er ministerial councils with prayer At any rate, the people Her birthday has occurred during my sia town and village has been 4 with free people although aueen, have good " pious.” and every over orange-colored buttons, and every- where there have been processions of school children carrying flags nging songs praising the queen. 1 ad the good luck be in Vollen- dam Marken on the Zuider Zee that day. where I photo- graphed the little ones in their gala- day costumes The love' of the people Wil- helmina began when she was a baby. and it increased when, at the age of ten, upon the death of her popular and | father, William I11, she became queen. although her sreat mother, Quesn Emma. directed the government fof eight years thereafter Even a girl Queen democratic. They tell how, at five vears of age, sic was rolling a hoop over the paths of the park which surrounds her palace just out- de The Hague. when met er little girl in clogs ‘rundling a The two were soon busy cha as Wilhelmina was she hoop. nch, one-fourth that i ting, and they rolled their hoops to- o | ner i flags. | The people have gone about ivearing and | gether, although neither had any idea with whom she was playing. . At another time one of her minis- | ters was lecturing her on some mat- ter of conduct. She had a doll in hand at the time. She listened {to the great man's complaint. and then showed him the doll, saving | “Sir, you had better take care, | don has the meastes:” \ 1 first saw the queen during a visit to Holland in 190 She was then | still on {imagine how she looked as a bride. She reminded me much of Mrs. Cleve- land, whom I had seen as a bride in the White House at Washington. The queen is of about the same height and has the iem. 1 am told she can adapt herself crowd. and that she knows just how to do the right thing at the right time. Her majesty speaks Eng- lish, German, French and Italian. She is well up in history, and has been tained knowledge of her edun- try, including the Dutch East Indies. where she hav about seven times as many subjects as in Holland itself. the time 1 twenty vears older. As the fruit of [the wedding she has had only one child, the Princess Juliana Louise | Emma Marie Wilhelmina; or, as she is sometimes familiarly - called, Ju- liana Lou. This little girl was born in 1909, and she will be just fourteen vears old dn the 30th of April. She is said to be quite as democratic as her mother. and full of the common my to any saw the queen she two, and s now | | | First Buffalo Is Obtained by Skillful Maneuver After Animal Has Almost Escaped—Big Hyena Laughs Like a Hysterical Person—Leopard Specimens Obtained — Natives Arouse Party by Beating on Tin Pans to. Frighten Away Small Bucks Which Threaten to Eat Up Crops of Peas and Beans—Pursuit of Gazelle by Cheetah Furnishes Interesting Experience. Thousands of Head of Game Observed From One Point. I had often heard of laughing hyenas, but this is the only one 1 ever heard laugh. The morning fol- lowing we were up early to inspect the traps,*looking at the near camp first. R The trap was gone. As we had at. tached large bushes for drags to each took the glasses and at once said it | of the traps, it was easy to follow | was a herd of buffaloes: so wé across the stream and began to stal | them " 1t first experience with was my waded | and we soon found a buffaloes and T knew‘that only bulls i could legally be shot. After cross ered a spring under a steep bank. sur- rounded by black mud. There was a bank about four feet high on the left and we walked along this” until suddenly a huge black animal arose out of the mud and tore past us. 1 never saw anything get over the ground more rapidly. | The only way he could get out was {past us. The distance between us |and the animal was not more than ten or twelve feet and as he raced by 1 was bewildered for a moment. I thought it was a buffalo, but was not quite sure; neither was I sure whether or not it was a male. But Simba began to shout: falo! Shoot, Bwana! Shoot! bul I had the presence of mind to note that when the buffalo crossed to the other side of the river he would have twenty yards to climb up a very steep bank and 1 felt this would be my opportunity to make a sure shot if I waited. Simba shouted, danced and pointed and could not understand why I did not shoot. Then the bull was about half-way up the bank, the steepness of Which slowed him down almost to a walk, I took aim and fired. One shot was enough. He fell down and rolled to tlhie edge of the water. He had a wonderful pair of horms, eighteen inches across the | web, almost concealing his eves. i ® % Rk HE next morning T found leopard tracks around: - After first build- ing ‘& strong fence of thorn bush around the body, with openings in it just large enough for a leopard to enter, T set traps nearby and in the openings: T Soon after dark we heard hyenas howling all around camp and one: of them isughed like.ahysterical-woman, “Buf- Big % ing the river we discov- | large striped hyena in it. This, T believe, was the one we had heard laugh, but he soon found it was no laughlng matter Another of the traps was gone. We followed the trail left for about 200 vards, when we came upon a very large leopard. 1 gave him one shot just back of the shoulder with my Jight rifle, which settled him. 1 set the trap again that night and caught another leopard. Both were very good specimens. Soon afterward we moved south for-| five days into the Guolomie hills, camping .the last night by a little stream used by some natlves for irri- gating. e camped under some large trees between two of their flelds, and that night I was awakened by some one beating on tin pans on each side of my tent. 1 thought the natives that owned the shambas or garden patches were wrought up by our presence and were beating the pans as a warning for us to leave, but the next morning Stmba explained to me that they were doing this to frighten away small bucks that would otherwise eat up their entire crop of peas and beans. This explanation was a great re- lief to me, as I had decided it was moving day.’ It was at this camp that I expected to kill a greater kudu. I huntedhard for five days and saw only cows and young bulls, but one morning Simba and I rode out before it was light enough to see and just at sunrise, two miles from camp, We came across 2 bunch of six or eight kudu cows. As we stood looking at them on this occasion another bunch of twelve or fiftéen came Into view much nearer #nd to the right. All started to run- ning. In the midst of this lot was & big bull. His horns appeared to be six feet in length and were So heavy that his head nodded up and down at every jump. He was mot over two hundred yards away and running Broadaide, . Al T could not have asked for a better shot, and as he passed a clump of bushes I made ready to drop him when he came out on the other side, but-a -young cew that was running behind caught up. and as he came in ght again-the cow was between me and.the bull. 1 .followed-him with my rifle, but the.cow held this position, causing me’td Jose a shot that I had traveled and-hdhted for so many days. The entire lot ran to an escarp- ment and went down over the top. * K Kk K ‘WAS much disappointed. T had.no idea that it was any use to follow them down the escarpment, as they were sure to be on the lookout for us. However, we proceeded along the trail they had covered into a basin of thick bushes. I noticed that all the ground that sloped Into the basin was fairly open. It was well that I noticed this and took it into consideration, for no ‘sooner had we entered the bushes down in the basin than we heard the twigs ANTELOPE RUN TO EARTH BY A CHEETAH. was evidence enough that we had Jumped the kudus. Had 1 remained in the basin T would never have seen them, but I retraced my steps as fast as 1 could run for nearly a hundred yards. From this point 1 could see all of the ground that sloped into the basin, and as I turned to look I saw a dozen or more kudus climbing the slope in a slow gallop. 1 did not discern the bull at first, but in an instant he broke cover and started up the steep Incline at a brisk gallop. He was a little over two hundred yards when I began shooting with my repeating rifle. I saw no effect of the first two shots, but as T fired the third he stopped and turned broadside. 1 took careful aim just back of his shoulder, fired again, and he fell, roll- ing back into the basin. Three of the four shots I fired had hit him. He was a magnificent speci- men. On the final day's hunt of this ex- pedition I had two or three Interest- cracking and stones rolllng.' This |Ing experiences, one of which was the pursuit of a by a cheetah, I had gone until 1 came sou’s gazelles. of them in every direction, the distance thousands of head of larger game could plainly be seen. As I rode slowly along. the gazelles would move to onc side, giving me about tw hundred yards right of way on both sides. length 1 got quite close to a.few that started to gallop straight away As they did so a large cheetah pounced out of a buuch of grass and took after one that passed nearest to him. 1 followed on my mule The cheetdl caught the gazelle in less than two hundred yards, and as he came down with him he either saw me or heard my mule galloping upon the hard ground, and, without even biting the gazelle, start- ed away as fast as he could run. Thompson's gazelle far out in man the plains across Thomp- and in | | i prise 1 noticed he was stone dead! 1 had galloped down cheetahs be- fore with a good horse and now de- cided to try with a mule. The cheetah gained on me the first quarter of a mile, then just held his own the sec- ond quarter. I began to gain on him & mile I galloped alongside and pass- ed him. As 1 did so he squatted to the ground. X I turned my mule, rode back quite close and shot him with my .45 Colt's as he crouched upon the ground. He was a feroclous looking animal, nearly as large as a grown lioness; but, unlike lions and leopards, chee- tahs are harmless. They are spotted like a leopard, and a cheetah skin is a fine troph: In India cheetahs down, caught alive and used to hunt with, * % % are galloped tamed and ATER in the day we encountered a large herd of elands, biggest of the South African bucks, but though 1 rode right in among them, I could find none great enough to make an ideal specimen. Toward the end I sat upon a hill and spent some time in looking over the surrounding country with my glasses. There were thousands' of head of game of many varietie many ostriches, greater bustard and her honeymoon. and 1 could | same personal magnet- | 1 could see bunches | As T passed the gazelle, to my sur-! in the third quarter. and in less than | THESE LITTLE MAIDS OF HOLLAND LIVE ON AN ISLAND IN THE ZUIDER ZEE, WHERE BOTH THE CHILDREN AND GROWNUPS WEAR sense that has characterized her fam ily. She is greatly beloved by the people, and, at the time of her birth celebrations took place throughout | Holland and in the Dutch colonies Even now we have villages named {Juliana in the United States, At the |same time many eulogistic articles |about the princess were published | the most taking of them all being & |tittle poem in American news paper which read ““Ihe Holland folk are tickled much Beeause they've got a Princess Dutch A brand-new, blue-eved baby girl To keep their loyal bearts awhirl An heiress for their little throne ‘That they can call their vers own Who soon will rule them as she likes As little Princess of the Dikes And for her pame This very same T< christened by her sul As Juliana, Juliana, © Juliana Lou We doff our caps 10 vou' A princess fair You trals air: 0 Juliana Lou “Some das_you'll come inte sour piace As ruler of the Holland race: And as & queen, seremely calm You'll rule o'er’ giddy Amsterdam And Rotterdam, And Potterdam And ail the other dams there be Along the be: damson sea And as you walk your regul wats Mar all your sauce be Hollandaise And may rou never use & crutch the Duteh Lo Your days all_through- © Juliana, Julinna, Juliana Lou; D princess fair n truly air! (Carpenter's World Travels. Copsright, 193, Frank G. Carpenter.) Variety Marks Hunter’s List of African Trophies secretary birds, walking about different places on the grassy plain There was oife ostrich about a h: mile (0 the left that had been squat ted ever since we came into sight As she stood up 1 could see througi my glasses that she had many little ones with her. There was a small donga (or [to the right with a fringe of bushes along it. 1 tied my mule and t simba to make circle and | gradually work her toward the donga. 1 went down the back side of the hill and crept the donga | without her secing me. | She was keeping her eye on Simba | When she got fairly close I ran out vale) a wide along | taking her by surprise. She ran away | and the little ones all skulked. | Nearly all had their heads under | the grass while their bodies were i | plain sight. We picked many of | them up and had a good look at them { then went on to camp. The next day we started for Nairohi ‘and returned in two days less than it | took us to come |1t would be difficult for me to de seribe the feeling of relaxation thal came over me as [ returned to civiliza | tion The little stone bungalows {along the road looked like mansions {and the broad, level road was a con- trast indeed to the rough, winding stony trail that T had followed for o many days. It seemed good to be home again, and T was glad it was over, but in the years that followed reminiscences of this group continued to pass through my mind, and, as | think of it now, 1 would not take thousands for those experiences (Copyright, 1923.) Loaded for Witches. IX witchcraft lore silver seems have bheen credited with great power to disperse evil spirits. In an old ork on the subject one ready of lliant Souldier who had skill in Necromanc: and who always used “gilver bullets to shoot away the witches.” The evidences of such super- stition are brought directly to the mod- ern eye through the discovery made by & Pennsylvania farmer. A dealer in curios purchased recently an old musket at s farmhouse sal From its appearance the weapon ante- dates the reyolution. It was in a de- plorable state of rust, and in cleaning it the new owner discovered that it was loaded. He carefully withdrew the charge, and to his surprige found instead of two bullets two silver shillings, dated 1751 tightly wadded with leaves of a Bible of ancient print. Beneath the coins was a small lock of hair and a piece of pa- per containing an illegible quotation. The gunpowder was coarse and un- doubtedly of colonial manufacture, The whole looks very much like a charmed charge, calculated to demolish some weird lady of the broomstick.