Evening Star Newspaper, December 24, 1922, Page 41

bl . #nd individual charit Ornamental Shoes, Copied From Medieval Days, Gain *7r WY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. o q i women did mot have the: length of skirts and height of shoes-to for shoes, also gowns, because four- teenth century medievalism brings into fashion a @enerous usage of <3 worry about, what would there ! colored skins. No costumery of - Le to think about in fashion?|those days was complete without the J'I f the women who Tend themselves | hide of beasts as ornln)enutlon. It 0 anxiety now upset about the g the most ancient of fashions. Spain s of which calls | 4nqd Italy led in this workmanship in eight in rule and | the Cinque-Cento and their leather > as Also the | makers produced amazing results. cvasual observe that side | They treated hides like craftsmen. pery is giving way to front dra- They worked on the material as Poery. | though it were metal, and turned agve These nges occurred in Pafls“t over to costumers, who put it on rskmmediate after the American buy- | the clothing of men and women; also ers lofe F which again proves|iney turned it over to decorators ‘shat no one feels sure in buying a| ., put into costly houses. +@rench-inspired gown in August that | Leather in that era was an impor- 3% will be correct in February. But| e grnamentation, only slipping A%hat is not the present problem. Let | ;00 gisuse in centuries that preceded Ihe trade wrinkle théir brows nvcr‘llms_ It was Tevived three years ago Our women want-to wear WHat | ipier the war and treated with scant rest of our women wear. TRaU$| u eo. Coats, capes and separate VY sarto! situation in a “““I"‘”'i‘skir!s were made of it to show. to et e E ! re inCOMINE | ¢ne American trade, but they were Jrench fashions for more than three |y poq * prance: persisted. Amerlea quonths. We inevitably do as Parid |, 09 from indifference to interest. ves en we have had suficient |y, 4y wag not until this autumn that time to wexr out what we pos | American women were persuaded to ‘ollowing out this soning, it ’sihu,\' jumper leather coats In quan- well to know that the new midwin- | o " jirome of Paris introduced a Levakine it are pulled about |\ sliection thiat has been brought the hips with pl ted drapery llvu\\‘n to this country by our manufacturers the middle of “.mA r there 18 &{ ., it before our women. Other whore 0 iban hie Kickel Ty thesheel| T CXRUARL A year age in (e Usc NRaTeeE CTenibt AbGiea this of colored leather as ornamention. S Last autumn most of the crafts- trick not It by hiou in e men united in a glorification of hide. ely % accepted b et riet, brown, violet, yellow and G ‘.in fo 1) ShiTts, i green leathers were dotted over the e S SKirts. |surface of hats and garments. Se- e (el shocs | vere woolen taflored suits were = i | splashed with bands and triangles of are not wid accepted in Paris, but colored leather deftly applied to the woolen surface. Crudity was absent, for designers had learned to handle !hides in the medieval manner. ‘White leather was covered with gold many new kinds of | ang silver geometrical figures. Tur- introduced this “seasonipans of leather were studded with oon to be | another prob- wy are a fashion for koned with. That's iem. o ok Many New Kinds of Leather Introduced, Because Fourteenth Century Fashions Involved Generous Use of Colored Skins—No Costumery of Those Days Was Com- plete Without Hide of Beast as Ornament—Gay and Costly Boots Mean Shorter Skirts—High Boots of Hour Do Not Fasten in Front, as Did Their Predecessors in War Days—Fasten at Side, With Several Kinds of Curious Ornaments and New 0 aS e DECEMBER 24 1922— PART Inventions—One Pattern Slips Over Foot Like Squire’s Boot. DI jewels in the Italian manner. Pock- ets of fur and leather, fantastically shaped, were placed . on jumper jackets and skirts. Last summer & new kind of leather was put on the market which was as supple as velvet; in coloring it was like gunmetal. One felt that a “goissante quinge” of the French army had been melted to make & woman's shoes. The Dolly Sisters, who danced at the Deauville Casino, wore short Russian boots of it Perugia and Thomas of Paris, who insist upon high shoes for women, | now use this new leather for orna- | mental medieval boots. There is no intimation of | former laced or buttoned boot | these high shoes. Medievallsm | the inspiration for those who ar | urging the incoming footgear. | instance, there is a suede beige boot wrapped aroung the leg and fastened with a large buckle in imitation of the early ankle covering of Europe. Such was the source of the American puttees, yet it was not the last war that brought this leg covering into the minds of shoemakers; it was the museums. Another shoe which has ornamental Roman . leather worked up one side extends ten inches from the floor. * * k X F COURSE, skirts are shorter. Ask yourself if fashion would be the in THE SHOES SHOWN IN THIS GROUP WERE WORN BY SPINELLY. TAE FRENCH TRESS, IN HER NEW PLAY. THOSE ABOVE ARE OF EMERALD € N VELVET WITH GOLD STRAPS.{ AT THE SIDE IS A SLIPPER OF BROWN SATIN. STRAPPED ABOVE ANKLE.. BELOW IS A PATENT LEATHER AFTERNOON SLIPPER WITH PLEATED TONGUE AND HEE BY S S MARQUIS, D B t day. | case. it | gation, F was turned down by Mrs. (Continued From I OME stinie r. on an Easter| Tpere is a woman on a farm in morning. @ ¢ wus pliced on| \rkansas, for example. who must be t plate signated for ithe d 1| wondering-at the reach of the fund. I never credited | Kord Motor Company, because an in- rmon—the sermon Was | vestigator appeared at her door one we day in answer to her pitiful appeal But when it cam o a building for | o Mrs Ford. And she must still ties of the parish, it | xperience some embarrassment when That's & zood thing.” | she recalls how widely her real con- “I want to give|dition, as the investigator found it itarily gave lib- | to be, differed from her description Hilding to the 1t And he vol eraily to it. He came backto the sub-|of it in her letter to Mrs. Ford. She Ject of this work at a later time and | was well to do, but Arkansas seemed insisted on making a second contribu- | such a long way from Dearborn that which was larger than I felt it | she thought she could take a chance It doesn’t ofter hap-ion getting something without her tion, wise to accept pen, but I have known churches to | case being looked into. |r~e -d”fi[!;n”d l']y ”rw tf"’(‘r"““!’ of @1 The personal attention which Mrs. ew rleh people. I wanted to avoid porg gives to these cases s but an that. | index of the gentleness, the kindness Mrs. Ford does much through the |and sympathy that are in her as 5ok unels of the church and | well as of the thorough and intelli- organizations » her Dlr-lgenl manner in which she does her interest and wise guidance the | work. . FFord Hospital owes more than the But to return to Mr. Ford and the public ever will know. To Ler gen- | church. Frequently are the ques- erosity the Willia institution an; —Lorder line ment. ns House. a church | tions asked, “Is he a churchman?’ ¥ home for “Is he a Christian?" “What are his s establish- religious views?' “Is he a religlous who could | man?" pients of her private| These seem to Le the same ques- . i :lops put in a little different form, Through the mails countless appeals | but they are not. The information it secemed to merit investi- likely to continue an instep The man who asks the second ques- { tion i$ not, so I have discovered, pa: ticularly interested in Mr. Ford's church affiliations. What he wants to know is something about the indi- vidual moral standards of Mr. Ford and the character of his private life. When you tell him that Mr. Ford's private life is clean, his tastes are simple, his pleasures are wholesome home, you have told him what he wants to know. The man who asks the third ques- {tion is just burning up to know if | Mr. Ford js a theosophist, a spirit- ualist or a new thoughter. Does he believe in transmigration of the soul or in reincarnation? What does he think of Confucius and Buddha? Would it be possible to have a talk with him on the esoteric teachings of the ancient mystics or the doc- trine of the stolcs? Inasmuch as he entertains some very original ideas on everything under the sun con- cerning which he speaks, he must have some very original and interest- ing views an religion. For the sat- isfaction of this man, permit me to say that Mr. Ford believes, or did once believe, in reincarnation. Thave never gone into the subject with him, 50 I do not know to what extent the belief has taken hold of him. I have heard him say that he has a knowl- edgo of some things with which it seems to him he was born. It comes A FRONT VIEW OF THE HENRY FORD HOME AT DEARBORN. sought in each case is far from the same. Each ‘question reveals, all un- for help come to her. And consci- entiously and with a woman's sym- pathy she goes laboriously through |consciously, a peculiar religious these letters herself. Numerous cases “slant” in the mind of the person she has turned. over to me for in-|asking it. vestigation through my department. If to.the one who asks the first The pity of it is that so many proved Iquelllon you state tfie fact that Mr. to be undeserving. Great was the!Ford was baptized and confirmed in surprise and confusion of people tolthe Episcopal Church, he is quite find that their letters had touched |satisfied. He has gotten all the in- the. sympathy which they had hoped | formation concerning Mr. Faord's re- to arouse, but that that sympathy |ligion he wants. He belongs to a proposed to act intelligently. No|church. Then he is all right, to him as out of the experience of & former life. * ¥ % % ast question is meant to draw out a statement as to Henry Ford's ideals, his social theories, his doctrines of human relations, particu- larly his idea of industrial relations. It comes as a rule from a man who places the emphasis on social rather than individual righteousness, who is Interested in the fruits of retigton For | and that he loves and enjoys his; G IN A BUCKLE length skirt with such gay and cos ly boots? Why buy them to hide them? French designers are side compan- ions to boot and fabric makers; they work _in common harmony, so when they encourage the high boot it means that our present long skirts will have to be cut off or tucked up. No one believes that the knee-cap skirt will be revived, for it was the ugliest fashion that France and America have sponsored since the bustle. But while no one dreads a return of such extreme skirt brevity, every one does expect that high boots and .ten-inch skirts will be soon assembled. ' There Is no indication of flat heels in these medieval shoes. They have several varieties of high heel, also the baby French heel, as it is commonly called. The American sandal, with flat, broad heel, round toe and ankle | straps, never made headway out- side of America, but it remains the common footwear of American girls. | They no longer dance in it, however, and older women ignore it. | The high boots of the hour do not | fasten in front, as did their prede-| cessors in war days. They fasten at the side with several kinds of curious ornaments and new inventions. One of the sensational terns is not DD OO OF THESE CRYSTALS. tastened either at front or side; it slips over the foot llke a squire's high boot. It is of pale green kid reaching ten inchey above the instep, held together with a band at top which buttons at one side. It is slashed in the medieval manner to show a transparent taupe stocking. When the first bootmaker placed colored feathers on evening slippers we thought the fashion too eccentric for this side of the footlights. Ev dently it wasn't. Smart women ac- cepted it. gingerly at first, later with enthusiasm. Made bold by such suc- cess, the bootmakers now put shred- ded fur around large ornamental buckles. There is a new pale brown satin slipper worn by those who are a bit weary of the popularity of brocade. On such slipper appears a huge rhine- stone buckle edged at each side.with a thick fringe of brown fur. There is also a black satin slipper with an oblong rhinestone buckle edged with | three circles of gray fur. | That leaf brown slipper, by the way,, iy good to remember when you &re | about to buy bootwear that will serve | for afternoon and evening. It is/ worn with a sheer cinnamon stocking | in the same ‘shade. Whatever the| gown. even black, this foot covering | Sy A EVENING SLIPPERS OF BLACK AND SILVER BROCADED VELVET, WHICH IS NI 5 THEY ARE CUT IN SANDAL SHAPE AND HELD BY THREE s‘rmvszggnmm%]}rgggs serves it. It often takes the place of the brocaded slipper:and nude stock- ing, which hés been in common usage for evening. There is also a return to black satin slippers with sheer black or taupe stockings of a weave to fine that one is mot sure of the color. There is no return to the col- ored stocking which matches the gown, but variously colored slippers are bobbing up. * ¥ ¥ ¥ the afternoon there is much gray A2 TSSO THE SMALL BU THIS IS WORN ON THE STAGE. the ankle holding a back panel of satin in tHe Roman manner. In: America the colonial pump has {been broadly and gladly accepted. Its | wide tongue reaches over the instep and there's a broad buckle. By the BEDROOM SLIPPERS OF ROSE-COLORED VELVET AND WHITE FUR. KLE IS OF MOTHER-OF-PEARL., WHICH HAS BEEN RE- VIVED FOR ORNAMENT. THE BEDROOM SLIPPER. IN SHAPE, IS IN RED AND GREEN, WITH TASSEL AT UPTURNED TOE. ORIENTAL - A mother-of-pear] buckle is put on one such pair of slippers, which is a glad relief from metal. This ehell has come into fashion along with its i sisters, its cousins and its aunts, all N I i way. buckles are worn up and down and beige suede, also black patent Way p and down| o cpom betong to the South Pacific leather. suede stitched in red and black have patent leather cut in points that rest on beige suede. The step-in slippers tongue is of pleated suede or ribbed | silk there are no buckles. One of the | diverting models shows a pleated Step-in slippers of gray the instep, not across it. If the long (o \ Fur slippers in white or brown are also worn in the house with buckles that reach nearly to ankles have re- | tongue run through a slash in the|of old silver or shell. There is a new placed the Oxford ties on women who follow the fashion. They are not commenly attractive. set off the shape of the foot like a pump with straps, but the experts say that the strap is finished as a first fashion, except for evening slippers; that we must go back to oxfords or colonial pumps unless we accept the' step-in shoe, that clings to the whole foot like a glove to a hand. There is a new stage slipper which promises to be worn on this side of the footlights, made of leaf-brown satin with straps eight inches above up. If you would prefer work to beg- to you." | shoe, extending to the ankle. | Naturally, with the orient dominat- return to Asiatic slippers. New foot- | wear that smart women adopt with | negliges _and house gowns is of | faded jbrotade with a turned-up toe and a vivid silk tassel. These are not kept for kimonos: they worn with luxurions room robes of velvet, of crepe and fur, of duvetyn and fur. Other indoor slippers are of rose, jade green and purple velvet edged with bands of white fur like our quilted satin bedroom slippers. are | struction of a man is not complete | Gefray the expense of bringing the fam- H | ] > T DT DTS SO | | | = \ | ging you are going to have your|so long as he neglects his home. . 5 . | chance. What follows will be up|Money would have been advanced to Financial Assistance | Those Who Need Given. DO DT DD D more than in its theological and ec- clesiastical roots. He will find the answer to his question scattered here and there throughout these chavters.l so thap I need not restate it here. | | To sum it all up, Henry Ford is not | a churchman in the sense that he a tends any church with regularity. en- ters into its worship, sacramental or other; is interested in the extension of its work, and contributes toward its’ support in a manner commensu- rate with his means. His father was ! a vestryman in the little Episcopal church in Dearborn. church that Mr. Ford was baptized and confirmed. Like many another man baptized and confirmed in early life, he has not maintained a close contact wwith organized religion in later years. I cannot conceive of him working con- tentedly and entuhsiastically in any organization, religious or secular, in ‘which he is not the dominating spirit and majority stockholder.. If he were | to accept the authority and responsi- bility for the reorganization of the ! church along lines of e¢ficlency and finance, I have no idea what he would do. But I am sure that whatever he did would go down in ecclesiastical history. Much that is now at the bat- tom would come to the top, 80 far as the ‘organization is concerned. and much now at the top would sink into oblivion. We would have the unique spectacle of ecclesiastical conventions meeting annually to devise ways and means for using a surplus, Instead of assembling, as at present, for the purpose of working out some plan for meeting the deficit in last year's mis- sionary budget. The clergy might be taken care of by giving them a job six days in the week in the foundry, with the understanding that they preach gratis on the seventh. 1 cannot imagine Henry Ford in- terested in creeds, much less sub- scribing to one. He {s disposed to- ‘ward doing his own thinking in mat- ters of religion as in other matters. Theology interests him, but it is not the kind that is found in the semi- naries. He is not an orthodox believer ac- cording to the standards of any church that I happen to know. - His religious ideas, as Bhe states R A Succeed With Pleas, But Must Show Right Kind of Stufi—Wife Deserters Have Been Ordered to Move Families to Detroit.If They Wished Employment—Roomers and Board- ers Not Permitted to Interfere With Satisfac- tory Home Life Where Assistance Has Been It was in this|cepted the beggar as a necessary evil, A | | ST them, are somewhat vague. But | there is In him someting bigger than | his ideas, something of a practical; nature that is far better than his! nebulous theories. | CHAPTER X. FORD, DIVES, LAZARUS | AND OTHERS. i ENRY FORD ie a rich man, but | he is not a Dives. Dives went| to his office every morning, saw Las- | arus lying at his gate as he passed out and did nothing about it. He ac- HENRY the outgrowth of a disease in the in- dustrial order for which there was no cure. It will be recalled that the rich man died and that the beggar died also, and then the tables were turn- | ed. It secems that in the hereafter we | live on the things we have laid up on the inside of us, not on the things we have piled up outside. This being the case, Dives found himself in bad shape. Spiritually he was in desti- tute circumstances, and the beggar was rich. The tables, as I have said, were turned, and Dives found him- self begging favors of a man who himself had been a beggar. I am nat going to preach a sermon. I have called to mind the parable of the rich man and Lazarus because it will help me to Illustrate some things I vant to say regarding Henry Ford in his handling of the ne’er-do-wells in whom In the past he has shown great interest. Lasarus would not lie umnoticed very long at the gate of Henry Ford. He would not be accepted as a fixed part of the landscape and be per- mitted to remain there. Something ‘would be done to put him on his feet, something more than giving him a crumb or a coin. ~ Henry Ford does not believe in beg- gars; does not belleve in the social and economic order that creates them; does not belleve in the senti- mental charity that encourages beg- gars to remain in the business of begging. ¥ To the beggar at his gate Henry Ford would say: “Millions for work but not a cent for charity. You go to the employment office, tell them that I.sent you there, and that they are to give you a job. Then go to the doctor’s office and have him fix you And s0, unless the beggar was one (! of the professional sort and belonged | J{to the anclent and dishonorable or- | (lder of voluntary mendicants, he |finding a house in which to make a home | would be given a job—a light job— | for his wife and children. He would have till he got on his feet, and then he might be transferred to the foundry just to see if he really meant busi- ness, really preferred honest work to begging. : If he should develop a yellow streak—that is, ask for a clerical job in the main office or for a light, sit- ting-down job in the magneto depart- ment—he would be back on the street ! collecting pennies in a tin cup in no time at all. But if he showed that he had the right kind of stuff in him he would be living in a home of his own in & few years and paying an income tax along with the rest of us. If a man is pald $6 a day in the Ford factory he is expected to earn it, and conveyors tuned up to a 36 speed leave little to the will of the op- erator. It's a great system, but needs careful supervision by human beings. ‘- * % x HEN the beggar at the gate of Henry. Ford is picked up and given a job his past history Is care- fully looked into—or there was a time when it would have been. It might be so now. I cannot say as to that. There was a time, however. when the beggar hired into the Ford Motor Company, If he had a wife and six children in Chicago whom he had deserted'long ago, and toward whose support he had eontributed little or nothing in rrecent years, would have been told’ to bring ‘his family to De- troit on the mext train or lose his Job. “Mr. Werd “beMeves the recon- |1ly to Detroit and later taken in easy payments from the man's wages. He would have been given assistance in | been cncouraged to start a bank account. the handling of his money his pay would have been turned over to his | wife. 1If the two had shown a tend- ency taward extravagance the profits of him who had been @ beggar would have been withheld until the lesson of thrift had been learned. If he were taken ill. a job would have been | given his wife or a son or daughter at $6 a day until such time as he was able to return to work. 1t it wers found necessary to send him to a hospital the cost of his care there would have been guaranteed by the company. | If by chance he received an injury { while at work he would have received compensation as required by law and, in- addition to that, a weekly allow- ance equal at least to half of his wage. | 1f at ary time he showed signs of slipping back into former ways and in an undesirable neighborhood, he would have been helped to find a house in a better quarter. 1¢ he filled up his house with room- ers or boarders he would have been {warned to get rid of them forthwith. His home must me a home. His wife and children must be given a fair chance. 2 So Henry Ford would have treated Lazarus. Henry Ford has his faults, but they: And I cannot|and it ultimate temsile stremgth 80, at not those of Dives. think of him as going ‘finally where habits; if he were found to be living |* such as decorators and a flower cluster porcelain rose, use in houses, They do mot|ing our cojtumery, there would be almade of colored shells for indoor {slippers. They appeared on belts !and as hip_decoration for draped gowns quickly after they -appeared in houses in imitation of Georgian 'days. Metal and cut steel buckles are sparkling evervwhere. [ Whatever one's personal tion toward shoes, therefore, says they must We colorful mental, medieval, exdtic.. " ifictina- jon (Copyright, 19223 Millions for Work, But Not a Cent for Charity, Henry Ford Slogan Dives is. Neither can I quite picture him with Lazarus on the bosom of Abraham, in view of what he has re- cently been. saying about Abraham's descendants: It seems to me -the situation would be mutually embar- rassing. 1 .think St. Peter will pass Mr. Ford at the gate, but following that I fear that he and -Abraham will 5 2 THE EDSEL FORD HOME IN DETROIT. . In case he roved a little careless in|have to iron out some personal mis- | understardings. * k K ¥ ! HE principies underlying the Ford way of dealing with his employes following the establishment of the profit-sharing plan were as sound economically as they were humane Mr. John R. Lee, through the socio- logical department; worked out a plan whereby a close, friendly, map- man contac{ was made between the company and its employes. But the advisory system he established it no longer exists. It was criticized as paternalistic. It was not that. It was friendly, fraternal, but not pa- ternal. K 2 i (Copsright; 1922, North = Allian Americal ce.) (Continued in mext Sunday’s Star.) CEHESTATKON mteel is of the high carbon variety. but it contaiss { more sulphur and less manganese than ordinary tool steel.- The cementation steel is so dense, than: it remains un- resolved under the microseope with a magnification of 1,200 (o' 1:600 diame- ters, although that-of open- hearth, crucible and Bessemer steel can be re- solved with a magnification of 100. 1ts elastic limit is said to be very-high 000 pounds per square inch.- ' T i o , % e